hummer h3 2007 viper 4706v idatalink

I've just attempted to install my remote start and bypass module (Viper 4706v and ADS-ALCA FW ads-al(dl)-gm4 on a 2007 H3 Hummer. I used the D2D connection between the Viper and ADS. The ADS programmed fine, but it seems the Viper doesn't talk to it (i.e. doors don't unlock)

On the ADS I've connected: (Type 3 install Data Mode)
BLACK/ white wire to Pin1 of ignition harness
Purple / YELLOW to ground
Data mode wire to Viper
Pink to Pin 3 at ignition
Orange to Pin 2 at OBDII
Yellow + WHITE/ Black to passlock car side and WHITE/ red to pin 4 ignition side
Yellow/black do dome/door wires isolated with diodes
White to Pin 5 ignition


On the viper I've connected:

Main Harness:
Pin 1: Constant 12 Volts
Pin 2: grounded
Pin 5: Parking light BROWN / white wire with negative input (the lights do flash 7 times when trying to start with remote -> still programmed in manual transmission mode)

24-pin auxiliary harness:
Pin 9: hood pin
Pin 13: grounded
Pin 20: light blue brake wire

Did not connect anything else. Don't know if that's the issue? I figured the D2D would deal with the rest? I could go with W2W if needed. Do I need to connect any of the wires ion the 10-pin remote start harness or does ADS deal with those?

Thanks

The first problem is that you have ADS AL(DL) GM4 flashed on your ADS AL-CA bypass module.  The correct firmware should be DBI AL(DL) GM4.  The DBI flavor ( with the correct D2D harness ) will communicate with DEI products.  The ADS version will not "talk" to a Viper.

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Soldering is fun!

The other problem is not using the 10 Pin Remote Start harness ( with the thick wires ).
If you look at the ADS AL(DL) GM4 install guide #10124, on the Type 3 wiring diagram ( Page 8 ) there is a note
on the lower left that has this info :
STANDARD 12 VOLT, IGNITION AND ACCESSORY,
STILL REQUIRED FROM THE REMOTE STARTER.
MULTIPLEX CIRCUIT IS CONTROLLED FROM
MODULE USING DATA, THEREFORE NO ADDITIONAL
RELAYS OR RESISTORS REQUIRED

That would translate to this on your Viper 4706 :
Viper thick Pink wire to H3 WHITE/ Green Ignition1 wire
Viper thick Orange wire to H3 WHITE/ Red Accessory1 wire
Viper thick Red to H3 +12V constant
Viper thick RED / Black to H3 +12V constant

*** There is no "Starter Wire".

Here is a photo from a 2008 Colorado that should be pretty similar to your H3.

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Soldering is fun!

Annoying that the place that sold me the remote start / bypass module combo didn't know the right firmware to put on. I'll have to get it re-flashed. I can't believe I didn't notice the fray box on the instructions. I was wondering if those were necessary. My plan was to hook everything up and see if it worked without, but then when door lock didn't work, I figured it was a communication thing between modules.

I'll get it done. Thanks for the info.

Most +12V shops know to flash DBI on an iDatalink bypass module when used with a Viper unit.  They might have done it correctly.  The other possibility is the setting and locking in of "Data" Installation Mode. 

Before you bring it back, make the Viper thick ignition wire connections and then try this :

1.  Perform the Factory Reset procedure listed on Page 12 of that same install guide but after Step 5 do the
     Installation Mode Selection procedure show at the top of Page 11.  ( After Step 5, the bypass module should
     start doing the single Green blink pattern ( D2D Data Mode ), press and hold the button for 2 seconds to "lock"
     it in.)
2.  Do Step 6 and then...
3.  Continue on with the actual vehicle programming for the Type 3 install.  Make sure you wait the 3 seconds
     on Steps 2 through 5 ( hold the key to Start for 3 seconds ).

If it was flashed with the DB firmware, the correct Install Guide is #10129.  Same Type 3 wiring.

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Soldering is fun!

Well had it re-flashed before I saw your message. After re-flash, I was able to lock and unlock the doors. After connecting the rest of the wires, I programmed the Viper to Automatic transmission. Everything seems ok. Now I just need to program the rest of the unit and I'm good to go.

So with regards to the rear defogger, what's the best way to hook that up? Do I go for the wires at the BCM or at the switch? How do i get it to activate? Ground the light blue wire with a relay or something else?

Thanks

Don't see too many H3's and have never been requested to add rear defrost.  Here is the info from Omega :
Rear Defrost LT BLUE    AT A/C CONTROL MODULE
You will have to test with a DMM to determine if it is a (+) or (-) signal and if it is latched or a single pulse.  It it is a
(-) signal, with proper programming the Viper can be directly connected to this wire.  If it needs a (+) signal, then a
relay would be required to perform the polarity conversion.

( We can provide DMM testing procedure if needed.)

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Soldering is fun!

So I get 12 volts on lt blue whether the rear defogger is on or off. The tan wire get 12 volts when the rear defogger is on. Does this mean that by shorting lt blue to tan with a relay the rear defrost will turn on? I might try it with a jumper wire tomorrow and measure the power at the defogger to see if that works.

Assuming that the Light Blue wire is thin gauge and with the "Logic" label on the HVAC Module, I would try this
test procedure before jumping any wires together.

Try this setup with your DMM.
1. Set to 20V DC
2. Red test lead to +12V constant source.
3. Black test lead to the Light Blue wire.
This will check for (-) logic signals using reverse logic.  The DMM Red test lead has +12V on it and the Black test
lead is "looking" for a path to chassis ground.  When found the DMM will display the +12V signal.

If the Light Blue wire is a (-) signal wire, you will see 0V with the engine running and the Defroster OFF.  When you
turn the Defroster ON, the DMM should go to +12V.  If the +12V is momentary ( or just while the Defrost button is
depressed ) it is a pulse signal.  If the signal remains at +12V during the entire time the Defroster is ON, then it is
a latched signal.

I would expect a latched signal with the relay shown.  If this tests as a (-) latched signal you can program the Viper
Menu 3, Item 11 to Option 2 and connect the H/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT.

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Soldering is fun!

So tested as above and +12V is momentary (only when physically pushing the button). So I can connect directly and program the unit to pulse.

Yes. Menu 3, Item 11 to Option 3

The Viper will send the pulse 10 seconds after a remote start if the temperature is below 55.

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Soldering is fun!

So after a few weeks of observing the behaviour of this install, I've noticed that doors do not always lock or unlock with the first press or sometimes the second press of the button. Also, the alarm sometimes goes of when using the remote start. It does this when the system fails to unlock the doors before starting the car. Once the car is started the alarm stops. I'm not sure if this is an issue with the Viper not taking properly via D2D to the iDatalink ADS. The problem is intermittent. Any suggestions?

First, you could check to see if the Viper is actually receiving the remote's signal for Lock or Unlock on those times
that the doors do not lock or unlock.  The Parking Lights should flash and that confirmation is coming from the Viper.

If the command is getting to the Viper, there really isn't too much you can do to verify it is being passed on to the
ADS bypass module.  It's handled as Data via the DBI D2D harness.  The H3's factory alarm going off would be
normal if the alarm wasn't turned off prior to the remote start-up.  The Viper / ADS bypass does this by unlocking
the doors first.

Think I would verify all my connections first, especially the Chassis Ground wire(s).  Next try would be going to W2W
mode and seeing if that straightened out the issues.

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Soldering is fun!