viper 5706v w/ idatalink 2014 sub outback

I have a 2014 Subaru Outback 2.5i 4 cylinder CVT (auto) model (base; not smart key; not sport; not push-to-start). I could use some help in answering a few questions (in underlined text below) regarding the wiring of a Viper 5706v remote start/security combo and idatalink ADS-ALCA immobilizer bypass.

Idatalink firmware flash and connection
When I go to https://www.idatalink.com/ and put my vehicle information in and viper remote start/security combo, I have two firmware options to flash. It looks like the DBI-AL(TB)-SUB(1.5) is what I need for immobilizer bypass. I plan to install using the D2D (2-way) communication and connect the wires according to the user guide (https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-SUB/DBI-AL(TB)-SUB-EN_20140911.pdf). What is the work around to get the locks working without buying a second idatalink module to flash the doorlock firmware DBI-AL(DL)-SUB(2.3)? OR Can I proceed with the install with just one ADS-ALCA module flashed with immobilizer firmware and use my OEM remote for door locks and use the Viper remote for remote start? For Subaru vehicles, has anyone had trouble “Kloning” with using only one module with immobilizer firmware flash? This site suggests I can do install with only one module, but that I may need to do a hardwire install instead of D2D (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57272).

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT----------------- 40A +12v constant at ignition (white, ignition switch, 6 pin plug, pin 3)
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis.
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT------------------------- Is this red or RED / black wire on siren?
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT----------------------- My vehicle has parking lights (-) BLACK/ white @ BIU and parking lights (+) BLACK/ blue @ BIU. I planned to set LIGHT FLASH POLARITY FUSE JUMPER TO (-) and then connect H1/5 to parking lights (-). Is this right?
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT------------- not used.

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT----------------- not used.
H2/2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT----------------- rear defroster PURPLE / green (-latched @ BIU white 34 pin plug (A) pin 26).
H2/3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT-----------------trunk/hatch release red (- @ BIU white pin plug (C) pin 10).
H2/4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------dome supervision brown (- @ BIU white 35 pin plug (C) pin 4).
H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) -----------------hood pin yellow/black (with remote start only) (- @ hood sw or remote start mod behind dash fuse box white 4 pin plug pin 4). Not sure if I will be able to find the wire; otherwise, I will install pin that came with Viper unit.
H2/10 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) -----------------trunk/hatch pin light GREEN/ black (- @ BIU white 35 pin plug (C) pin 33).
H2/11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT-----------------not used?
H2/12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT-----------------not needed for D2D but will connect anyway to RED / white to WHITE/ green (AC @ cluster white 40P plug pin 30 or @ ECM behind glove box white 35P plug (B) pin 15).
H2/13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT-----------------subaru is automatic transmission; so run to ground.
H2/14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------------not used?
H2/15 GREEN* (-) DOOR INPUT-----------------subaru has four triggers for the doors (left/front, right/front, left/rear, and right/rear). Do I need to connect all four trigger wires together using 1 amp diodes, stripes towards trigger wires?
H2/16 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/18 VIOLET* (+) DOOR INPUT-----------------not used since door triggers are (-) polarity. Will use H2/15.
H2/19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT-----------------is this taken care of by D2D? so no need to connect? But what if I have to hardwire, does this wire connect to "brake wire" BROWN / white (+ @ BIU white 34 pin plug (A) pin 10)?
H2/21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-----------------not used.
H2/23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT-----------------not used.

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 NC No Connection----------------------------not used
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT---------------- My vehicle has starter (WHITE/ black +) and second starter (WHITE/ green +) +12v constant blue/red at ignition. Do I need a relay? 87: 20A fused +12V, 85: ground, 30: second starter (WHITE/ green + @ ignition, white 6 pin plug pin 6), 86: starter (WHITE/ black + @ ignition switch, white pin 6 plug pin 2) also attached to viper H3/2 RED / black. Is a diode required and, if so, which two connectors would it span and which side does stripe go to?
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY---------------not used
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT------subaru only has one ignition, so not used.
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED12V IGNITION 1 INPUT-------------- ignition green (+ @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1). Does this connection also tie into H3/10, and do I also connect to 12V source wire @ ignition?
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------not used?
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—--not used?
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT---------not used.
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12 V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87---------------subaru only has one ignition, so not used.
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT-- ignition green (+ @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1). Does this connection also tie into H3/5, and do I also connect to 12V source wire @ ignition?

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT----------BROWN / black (-) BIU right of steering column, white 35 pin plug (C), pin 20
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT----------- BROWN / white (-) BIU right of steering column, white 35 pin plug (C), pin 9

Other connections from Viper module:
Neutral Safety switch--------------- plugged in and in the ON position.
RF Port for IVU Control Center--------------- not used.
Sensor 1--------------- shock sensor.
Sensor 2--------------- not used.
Thermistor/Temp sensor--------------- not used.
Bitwrite/SmartStart Port--------------- not used.

After the connections are made, I need to:
Program system feature Menu 3 Item 1 Transmission Mode from Opt 1 (manual) to Opt 2 (automatic).
Program system feature Menu 3 Item 2 Engine Checking Mode from Opt 1 (virtual tach) to Opt 4 (tachometer).
Depending on switch state for hood, door, and trunk (i.e. normally open or normally closed), I may need to program those system features.
Finally, I need to learn the tach.

Thanks for the help!
Tim

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Tim

Some answers:-
Is this red or RED / black wire on siren? Red, RED / black to ground.
My vehicle has parking lights (-) BLACK/ white @ BIU and parking lights (+) BLACK/ blue @ BIU. I planned to set LIGHT FLASH POLARITY FUSE JUMPER TO (-) and then connect H1/5 to parking lights (-). Is this right? Yes, fuse as negative.
-subaru has four triggers for the doors (left/front, right/front, left/rear, and right/rear). Do I need to connect all four trigger wires together using 1 amp diodes, stripes towards trigger wires? Yes to the second.
is this taken care of by D2D? so no need to connect? But what if I have to hardwire, does this wire connect to "brake wire" BROWN / white (+ @ BIU white 34 pin plug (A) pin 10)? Only answer here is "suck it and see". If not, the switched side of brake, i.e. the side that goes to the brake lights.
- My vehicle has starter (WHITE/ black +) and second starter (WHITE/ green +) +12v constant blue/red at ignition. Do I need a relay Yes,use H2/21 Violet / YELLOW to 85, constant, 30amp fused to 86 and 87, 30 to second starter, diode 1N4004 across 85 and 86, band to 86.
ignition green (+ @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1). Does this connection also tie into H3/10, and do I also connect to 12V source wire @ ignition? ignition green (+ @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1). Does this connection also tie into H3/10, and do I also connect to 12V source wire @ ignition? Pink to existing ignition wire, red, RED / white and RED / black, connect all of these to a 12v+ CONSTANT source.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Some ADS AL-CA answers :

Due to the Firmware and functions, iDatalink has split the duties between two modules for that vehicle.  As you
mentioned, one module handles the Transponder duties while the other module ( DL ) handles the door locks,
alarm, trunk release, supplies the door / trunk status, Brake Pedal & EBrake status and provides a Tach signal.

Not sure if the module cost or the lack of D2D control for two modules is your main issue.  Considering that you
are installing an alarm system ( on a vehicle that probably already has a Factory Alarm system ), the signals that
the ADS AL-CA flashed w/DL firmware provides makes the install much easier.  If module cost wasn't the issue,
you could use both modules.  The DL flashed module could go D2D and the TB flashed module could be hardwired
with only three connections to the Viper ( +12V power, chassis ground and GWR / Status Out ) in place of the D2D
connector.

Anyway, yes, you can use just the TB flashed module and hardwire all the other necessary signals.  The KLONing
function is only done on the TB module.  The DL module will program to the vehicle without the extra KLONing
steps.  Remember that you will need the iDatalink USB cable and access to the Flash portion of their WEB site to
flash and do the extra KLON steps on the TB module.  For your Viper you will need the DBI flavor of firmware as
you mentioned.

If I am not mistaken, the Factory remotes no longer work while the engine is running.  You can test this by starting
your Outback with the key and then using the other Factory FOB to try locking / unlocking the doors.  If everything
still works, no problems.  If the Factory FOB's no longer work, you will need to wire up the Viper to control those
functions so you can get into the remote started vehicle without using a key in the door. 

That brings us to the Factory alarm system.  First check to see if you have it.  If you do have the Factory Alarm
you have a few choices.  Wire and set up the Viper and ADS AL-CA to integrate with the system.  That means
being able to turn on/off the alarm with the Viper remotes and their lock and unlock commands.  This could
require additional relays, etc.  The second option is to turn off the Factory Alarm system and rely solely on the
Viper's alarm system.   This is where the second ADS AL-CA module flashed with the DL comes in handy.  It
supplies many signals and makes controlling the Factory Alarm system easier.

It looks like you have a good handle on the actual vehicle wiring, so going with just the TB module should be
fine.  Remember that the TB module will only do the transponder bypass function so the items you mentioned
in your wiring, like Brake and Tach, will have to be hardwired to the Viper.  Those signals are only supplied by a
DL flashed module.

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Soldering is fun!

FOLLOW UP POST

Thank you howie II and kreg357 for your input, I appreciate your help, but I have a few more questions which I underlined. After I made all of the connections and programmed the ADS AL-CA modules and Viper (transmission mode set to Auto, Engine check mode set to Tach, and started car to learn tach), I do not get a remote start. I do get the dash lights and gauges to turn on, but no cranking. I also noticed that during learning the tach, the parking lights did not flash to give feedback like Viper manual said. However, parking light output reads ~4.65 V when I turn parking lights on (car is off) or while car is trying to start during remote start sequence.

Idatalink firmware flash and connection
I flashed ADS AL-CA with DBI-AL(DL)-SUB(2.3) on D2D option. I connected the D2D cable from ADS AL-CA to Viper D2D port. The manual showed hardwired connections to make, so I followed those directions and connected the wires (SECURITY LIGHT VEHICLE SIDE, BLUE/RED - SECURITY LIGHT CONNECTOR SIDE, PINK - IGNITION (+) INPUT, ORANGE - KEYSENSE (+),ORANGE / BLACK - IMMOBILIZER DATA ECU SIDE, BROWN / YELLOW – CANL, BROWN / RED – CANH, WHITE/ RED - IMMOBILIZER DATA ECU SIDE, WHITE/ BLACK - IMMOBILIZER DATA BCM SIDE). After connecting the module, I pressed programming button to select data installation mode and then turned key to ON then OFF for the vehicle to program the module. No problems, get the green lights.

On a second ADS AL-CA module, I flashed DBI-AL(TB)-SUB [1.5] on hardwire option. I connected 12V + Red, Ground - Black, and GWR - Input Blue/White to Viper. The manual showed the same hardwired connections to make as for DBI-AL(DL)-SUB(2.3), so I made those connections too. After connecting the module, I pressed programming button to select hardwire installation mode and then started the vehicle so key info would be sent to module. I then went back to iDatalink website and finished the KLON step. I connected module to Viper and started vehicle to finish programming. No problems, get the green lights.

Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT----------------- 40A +12v constant at ignition (white, ignition switch, 6 pin plug, pin 3)
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND-----------------------Ground to Chassis.
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT------------------------- To red wire on siren. RED / black wire on siren ran to ground.
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay------Not Used.
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT----------------------- Parking lights (-). Light flash polarity fuse on Viper jumpered to (-). Do I need to make any other connections or use relays here since I don’t get a flash from VIPER after learning the tach?
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT-------------Not used.

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT-----------------Not used.
H2/2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT----------------- rear defroster PURPLE / green (-latched @ BIU white 34 pin plug (A) pin 26).
H2/3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT-----------------trunk/hatch release red (- @ BIU white pin plug (C) pin 10).
H2/4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT-----------------Do I connect this wire to dome supervision brown (- @ BIU white 35 pin plug (C) pin 4)? I ended up not connecting the wire because I actually cut the dome supervision wire to connect to AD AL-CA DL module security light connector or vehicle side.
H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT----------------- Is this ground while running (GWR)? I connected to blue/white GWR (-) on ADS AL-CA TB module, but I noticed this wire is always reading 0V for me (car off, car running by key, and during the attempt to remote start)
H2/6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT-----------------Not used.
H2/7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT-----------------Not used.
H2/8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT-----------------Not used.
H2/9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) -----------------hood pin supplied by Viper, N/O.
H2/10 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) -----------------trunk/hatch pin light GREEN/ black (- @ BIU white 35 pin plug (C) pin 33).
H2/11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT-----------------Not used.
H2/12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT-----------------Connected to WHITE/ green wire (pin 15) on white 35 pin plug B behind glove box. Wire shows 0V when car is off and ~ 6.65V when car is running.
H2/13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT----------------- Viper directions say to run to ground, since Subaru is automatic transmission. However, wiring diagram says in order to make the ready mode neutral safety feature work properly with the electric parking brake on this vehicle, you need to use the + keysense (BLACK/ white) wire and the - parking brake (gray) wire, diode isolated and tied to the BLACK/ white neutral safety wire of the remote start. It works because the parking brake goes to sleep after a minute, and when the key is removed, the keysense stays negative. Also, the electric parking brake requires the foot brake to be pushed, so there is no way to accidentally disengage the parking brake with pushing the foot brake, thus disabling ready mode. I ended up connecting BLACK/ white keysense (+) to non-stripped end of diode and the stripped end of diode went to H2/13. I also ran parking brake (gray; - @ BIU white 35 pin plug, pin 32) to non-stripped end of diode and the stripped end of diode went to H2/13. Is this right?
H2/14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT-----------------I set Subaru factory alarm to Valet mode. kreg357 do I need to connect this wire if?
H2/15 GREEN* (-) DOOR INPUT-----------------Connected to each of four door trigger wires using 1 amp diodes, stripes towards trigger wires.
H2/16 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/18 VIOLET* (+) DOOR INPUT-----------------not used since door triggers are (-) polarity. Will use H2/15.
H2/19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT-----------------BROWN / white (+ @ BIU white 34 pin plug (A) pin 10). Wire shows 0V when brake is not pressed and ~ 12V when brake pedal is pressed.
H2/21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT----------------- Used a relay here. H2/21 to 85. +12V 30A fused to 86 and 87. Diode across 85 and 86 with stripe towards 86. Second starter WHITE/ green (+ 6 pin plug pin 6) to 30. Do I need an ignition wire on this relay somewhere and what about starter #1, this doesn’t seem to be connected?
H2/22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT-----------------not used.
H2/23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT-----------------not used.
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT------------------I set Subaru factory alarm to Valet mode. kreg357 do I need to connect this wire if?

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 NC No Connection----------------------------Not used.
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT---------------- +12V source at ignition.
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY---------------Not used.
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT------subaru only has one ignition, so not used.
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED12V IGNITION 1 INPUT-------------- +12V source at ignition.
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------ Do I need to connect this wire, to where, and do I need a relay?
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—-- Do I need to connect this wire, to where, and do I need a relay?
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT---------Not used.
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12 V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87---------------+12V source at ignition.
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT-- ignition green (+ @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1).

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT----------BROWN / black (-) BIU right of steering column, white 35 pin plug (C), pin 20.
2 EMPTY NOT USED-----------not used
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT----------- BROWN / white (-) BIU right of steering column, white 35 pin plug (C), pin 9.

Other connections from Viper module:
Neutral Safety switch--------------- plugged in and in the ON position.
RF Port for IVU Control Center--------------- plugged in and routed to windshield.
Sensor 1--------------- shock sensor.
Sensor 2--------------- not used.
Thermistor/Temp sensor--------------- not used.
Bitwrite/SmartStart Port--------------- not used.

Thanks for the help!

-------------
Tim

H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT-
Ref the tach make sure the GREEN H2/15 sees ground when doors are opened.
H2/4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
Not sure, most of the vehicles I work on already have OEM dome supervision so I never bother.
H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
Yes and it should go to ground as soon as R/S is activated. If not use H2/17 PINK
H2/13 BLACK/ WHITE
Straight to ground or reverse light wire in floor loom.
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)------ Do I need to connect this wire, to where, and do I need a relay?
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)—-- Do I need to connect this wire, to where, and do I need a relay?
Yes of course! Cut starter 1 wire, green to ignition side and violet (purple) to starter side. Relay is internal, This is probably the main reason why it won't start.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Car cranks and runs now, but shuts off within a couple of seconds. I addressed all of your comments, but am out of ideas for what else to try. Do you have any other ideas?

In reference to: "H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT- Ref the tach make sure the GREEN H2/15 sees ground when doors are opened." From my multimeter, I put the negative on tach wire and positive on H2/15. Shows ~ +12V when doors are closed and ~ +0.6V when any door is opened. I still do not see parking light flash when learning the tach

In reference to: "H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT. Yes and it should go to ground as soon as R/S is activated. If not use H2/17 PINK." Shows ~ +5V when R/S is inactive, but goes to ~ +0.6 V when R/S is active.

Viper will try three r/s attempts after I press the start button on the remote. On three separate occasions (of ~30 attempts), the car actually stayed started but always after third attempt. I have tried wired, virtual, and voltage 'engine checking modes', each with same result of the car shutting off within 3 seconds. Car has remained started at least once after 3rd r/s attempt in wired and virtual tach modes. I notice that the ADS ALCA Immobilizer module blinks green during first attempt at each r/s, but then it blinks red during subsequent r/s attempts.

Thanks for the help!


-------------
Tim

Stop!!!
Set DMM to 20VDC scale, red probe to a 12V+ constant source, black probe to green should read 12 Volts+ on opening a door.
For tach set DMM to 20VAC red probe to suspect wire, black probe to ground you should see 3=5VAC only on engine run if wire is correct.
Frankly apart from tach which hasn't been learned, you only need a test light for everything else as I can see you're not using the DMM correctly.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Set DMM to 20VDC scale, red probe to a 12V+ constant source, black probe to green should read 12 Volts+ on opening a door.
Yes, reads +12 V DC on opening door and +0.8 V when door is closed.

For tach set DMM to 20VAC red probe to suspect wire, black probe to ground you should see 3=5VAC only on engine run if wire is correct.
I see 0VAC on engine off, and +7VAC on engine run.

I tried to r/s with tach by connecting H2/12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT on VIPER unit to WHITE/ green wire (pin 15) on 35 pin plug B behind glove box. I set menu feature option to tachometer. I followed the directions for learn the tach but don't get confirmation by parking light flashes.

From the manual for Learning the Tach
1. Start Vechicle with key.
2. Within 5 seconds, press and hold control button.
3. After 3 seconds the blue LED light on control center lights contant.
4. Release the control button.

Important: Viper unit can learn the tach with the analog input or through D2D using an inerface module. The unit confirms which source is used by flashing hte parking lights. When programming tach learning with analog (parking lights flash once), with D2D, parking lights flash twice. If tach input on the system is connected to the vehicle, the D2D input is ignored.

I also tried to initialize virtual tach. So, I disconnected tachometer wire from Viper unit and set menu feature item to virtual tach. I followed directions to program virtual tach, but in order to finish programming, engine must be running for 30 seconds. I don't think virtual tach programming completed.

-------------
Tim

Remember that the iDatalink install guides do list all the R/S connections, only the ones they need / use.
You still must connect the Viper to the vehicles ignition circuits.  Think it goes like this :

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 NC No Connection----------------------------Not used.
H3/2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACC/STARTER INPUT----- +12V source at ignition.
H3/3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A  FLEX ------     Not used.
H3/4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUT-  ***      WHITE/ Green (2.5L) (+) @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 6  ***Set to Starter2
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED12V IGNITION 1 INPUT--------------   +12V source at ignition.
H3/6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE )------    WHITE/ Black (+) @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 2
H3/7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)—-- WHITE/ Black (+)  @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 2 
H3/8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT---------         Blue (+) @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 4 
H3/9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12 V Flex---------------      +12V source at ignition.
H3/10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT-- Green (+) @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug pin 1 **
        **Also goes to both bypass modules' Pink Ign Input wire
*** H3/4 Pink/White programming = Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 3

Additionally, there is a ACC2 wire that might need to be powered during a remote start.  Here is the info from ReadyRemote :
Second Accessory        Yellow (+)      @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 5
An extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay with a fuse holder with a 20 Amp fuse are required and wired as below :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
Relay Pins 86 and 87 to +12V constant through fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Yellow (+)  @ ignition switch, white 6 pin plug, pin 5

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357,
Thanks for the advice on the extra connections and programming of menu options that I made. However, the car still dies within a few seconds after each r/s attempt. I've tried in wired or virtual tach modes. For tach mode, I connect tach wire, but still never get confirmation of learn tach with parking light flash. During my first attempt to r/s in virtual tach (tach wire disconnected), the car remained started. I killed the engine after a few minutes using remote. But when I tried to r/s again, car dies within a few seconds again.

Am I supposed to keep this initial relay setup connected? H2/21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT to 85. +12V 30A fused to 86 and 87. Diode across 85 and 86 with stripe towards 86. Second starter WHITE/ green (+ 6 pin plug pin 6) to 30. Anyway, I tried wired or virtual tach modes with this relay setup connected and disconnected. All with same result of car dying within seconds after r/s.

For the AD ALCA modules, I made these connections to both modules:
BLUE / YELLOW to SECURITY LIGHT VEHICLE SIDE (cut dome supervision brown (-) at BIU white 35 pin plug, pin 4 vehicle side).
BLUE/RED to SECURITY LIGHT CONNECTOR SIDE (cut dome supervision brown (-) at BIU white 35 pin plug, pin 4 connector side).
PINK to IGNITION (+) INPUT green at ignition switch white 6 pin plug, pin 1.
ORANGE to KEYSENSE (+) BLACK/ white at BIU white 34 pin plug, pin 4.
ORANGE / BLACK to IMMOBILIZER DATA ECU SIDE (tied into WHITE/ red).
BROWN / YELLOW to CANL (red data link connector white 16 pin plug, pin 6).
BROWN / RED to CANH (blue data link connector white 16 pin plug, pin 14).
WHITE/ RED to IMMOBILIZER DATA ECU SIDE (cut WHITE/ blue at BIU white 34 pin plug, pin 31 vehicle side).
WHITE/ BLACK to IMMOBILIZER DATA BCM SIDE (cut WHITE/ blue at BIU white 34 pin plug, pin 31 connector side).
On TB module in wire-mode I also connected Red to 12V +, Black to Ground -, and GWR (-) Input Blue/White to Viper H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT. On DL module in D2D mode I connected D2D cable to Viper D2D port. I always get a green flashing light from both modules during first attempt on r/s. On second and third attempts to r/s TB module flashes red while DL flashes green. Flashing RED indicates 'incorrectly programmed' according to idatalink. I plan to call the company to inquire.

For parking lights instead of (-) polarity, should I change jumper to (+) and pickup BLACK/ blue parking lights (+) at dash fuse box, white 20 pin plug, pin 10? Also instead, what about hazards, green (-) @ BIU white 31 pin plug, pin 18?

Any suggestions on where to go from here?
Thanks again.

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Tim

for clarity "During my first attempt to r/s in virtual tach (tach wire disconnected), the car remained started. " This means that I changed Viper menu option to virtual tach, then pressed r/s on remote. The viper tries 3 attempts to r/s and on the third attempt by viper to r/s, the car stayed running.

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Tim

Sorry for the confusion on the ignition wires.  Think I was looking only at the first wire chart and not the second. 

While you could use a relay for Starter2, because it is a rather important wire, I prefer to use the Vipers Flex relay
for that wire.  Just a matter of programming the Menu 3, Item 8.  Doing it this way, the Viper handles everything
except the Accessory2 wire.   The relay setup you have now for Starter2 could be switched over to the ACC2 wiring
shown in my post.  Adding the quenching diode across the coil is a good idea.

The Viper should be able to learn the Tach signal.   The 7V AC Tach signal sounds OK and it should rise slightly
with RPM's.  Two other options :  Even though you are running in D2D mode with the ADS "DL" module, hardwire
the bypass' Tach output wire to the Vipers Tach Input wire or go directly to a F.I. wire at the engine.  Make sure you
program the Viper back to Tach Mode and then do the Tach Learn process. 

Did you do the Shutdown Diagnostics on the Viper?  It might give some good info on the issue.

Do the Parking Lights flash with a lock or unlock?  If yes, leave the Viper Parking Light jumper at (-) and the White
Parking Light output wire connected to the vehicles (-) Parking Light wire.  Your connection is good and the Vipers
Parking Light output is working.

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Soldering is fun!

Vehicle still dies a few seconds after r/s, but some progress has been made.

Parking lights work now with Viper remote lock/unlock. Had to go to (+) polarity wire and switch jumper to (+). I think this is because Viper sends ~12V signal on output, but my Subaru uses a 7V signal on (-) polarity wire or 12V on (+) polarity wire.

I picked up tach signal from fuel injector. I read OV on wire when vehicle is OFF; ~12V when ingition is in ON position; ~13V to 14V when engine is running. Voltage drops a little when I press gas pedal down and then quickly rebounds. I set Viper Menu 3 Item 2 to Opt 4 Tachometer. I learned the tach and got a single parking light flash indicating Analog source. Interestingly, if I disconnect tach wire and try to learn tach, I get two parking light flashes indicating tach is learned from D2D interface module.

Shutdown diagnostics indicate 3, 4, and 9 flashes:
3 flashes: low or no RPM
4 flashes: transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
9 flashes: low battery (voltage mode)

I do not know what to do with that information though. Weird part about "transmitter shutdown" is that I never stopped the r/s by pressing the remote shutdown button. Also, after the third failed attempt to r/s my transmitter remote simply says "remote start OFF" rather than displaying "remote start ERROR" like I used to get.

Anything else I can check or try to get my r/s working?

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Tim

*correction* tach wire reads 1.0 VAC when running idle, and up to ~ 7 VAC when I press gas pedal quickly.

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Tim

Have you tried Virtual Tach Mode?  Might be worth a try to see if the symptoms change.

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Soldering is fun!

In virtual tach mode, engine cuts out a few seconds after r/s; same response.

Earlier today, I put multimeter red lead to +12V constant and black lead to H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT from Viper. I measured 0V when I press r/s button, but 12V otherwise. Later, after all of my tinkering, I believe something has happened to GWR. Now I read ~11.9V on GWR during r/s and 12V otherwise.

Also, since GWR doesn't seem to work, my immobilizer module doesn't get signal to start, so now engine doesn't try to crank during r/s.

Not really sure where to go from here. Am I missing a wire?



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Tim

Forget using a DMM the real way to test that wire is to use a test light with an incandescent bulb, POS side to a constant 12V+ and NEG side to the GWR wire.
Use either the second status wire or the pink NEG wire on your H2 plug.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello. Have you installed viper on your OB? Did you connect rear defogger? Is so, could you please share details about how to do it.