remote start 2010 aveo with immobilizer

Not having much luck here. So any help is fantastic.

2010 Aveo - CANADA - has an immobilizer

Purchased an Avital 4103 Remote Start
and a PKUAVEO

I followed the PKU AVEO's instructions (and what I thought was the rest of the 4103's wiring) and I can't get it to even attempt a start. The PKUAVEO is getting power. The only thing I can get the 4103 to do is the led blink constantly when I hit 'lock'. When I hit unlock, it stops.

➢ Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/
BLACK
FACTORY ALARM DISARM
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT
H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/8 BLACK GROUND -------------------------------------grounded
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH

➢ 4-pin satellite harness diagram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT ------------------wired to the "(-) while running" on PKUAVEO
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT

➢ Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT ------------wired to 'ignition' on the ignition harness
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT ----------wired to 'accessory' on the ignition harness
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT ------------------wired to constant power
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT -----------------wired to constant power

➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT

➢ Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT -------------- grounded
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE --------------wired to blue wire in 11pin plug/drivers kick panel
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE ------------------temporarily grounded
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

Plan was to wire up the hood pinswitch as soon as I had it running. If anyone can see something I'm missing, it would be much appreciated. I didn't think I had to run to the yellow starter wire.

The 4103 is in bitwriter/esp2 mode. (Not that I think that matters.) I can also enter the programming mode by key on/off, valet button.

The PKUAVEO's instructions are a little strange. Steps 7 and 8 are wire the loops around the ignition, and then connect the PKUAVEO to the PKUAVEO CONTROL. So I've followed that, and also tried prewiring it, but still no attempt to start. And the LED doesn't indicate anything when I attempt to start, not sure if it should.

Here is one problem :

H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE ------------------temporarily grounded

This wire should only see Chassis Ground when the hood is open, so for your testing, make sure the wire is not connected to anything.  Just insulate it for now.

Steps 1 through 6 of the PKUAVEO programming are similar to adding a new ignition key to a GM PK3 system.  The
R/S transponder chip is inside the PKUAVEO module.  After it's programmed to the vehicle the PKUAVEO control
module turns it on during a remote start as directed by the (-) Status Output GWR wire.  The antenna loop just
transfers the transponder chip info from the PKUAVEO module during R/S run time.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you! That's got me much closer then I was. This is only my 2nd remote start, so that was a pretty lame mistake.

Now my only issue seems to be getting a good location for the Antenna Loop. If I place the PKUAVEO unit in front of the key tumbler, and hit the start button, it will start. But it seems to kick on the anti-theft light and attempt to start it three times, and finally give up.

Is the antenna powered? Do you think it's failing to be triggered by the (-) status output?

I also noted that the PKUAVEO unit can be reversed. (Ie the control unit and antenna can be plugged in either side.) I tried both. And still had issues with the security.

Thanks for the input!

Sorry, I reread my post and it's a little confusing. If you place the PKUAVEO in front of the tumbler, it will start and remain running. However, anytime I try to rely on the Antenna, it ends up failing.

If the car remote starts and remains running with the PKUAVEO module positioned next to the ignition switch, then the
PKUAVEO chip programmed OK and was accepted by the car. 

If it won't remain running, it didn't get programmed.  Remember that your first programming attempt was when the
R/S wasn't going to try because the Hood was showing as open.  In that case the R/S wasn't outputting power to the
thick Ignition wire and the car didn't actually remote start. In this case, try the PKUAVEO program process again.  It
should start and run. 

Antenna placement around the ignition switch barrel is critical and even more so in very cold environments ( the
cold temps cuts down on transmission efficiency ).  You will have to experiment with the number of wraps and their
position.  I have never used the PKUAVEO ( I use iDatalink products ) so I am not sure which side is the input from
the control module and which is the antenna output.  If the module looks like the diagram with "PKUAVEO" printed
on top, try to follow that exactly. 

The (-) Status Output should be OK if the RKUAVEO Control module is doing its' job on the VData circuit.

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Soldering is fun!

I think we've got it Kreg357! Thanks for your advice. I was trying to loop the antenna in much more complicated ways. Under the immobilizer ring and module, etc. With your description and sleeping on it. I got up and looped it as close to the end even somewhat over the ring and sure enough it worked.

Now just to finish up doors, hood pin and horn and I think we have a winner. Thanks again!