1995 e36 3 series, hawk alarm

Have just got a nice 1995 E36 BM after having my car stolen a few weeks back. With security in mind im looking to install one of the Hawk alarms. These alarms are a unit which i know and trust. Very secure, stable and easy to live with. They give you the same amount of security as the big boys without the large mark up in price. However, i had an E36 3 series years ago and did fit an alarm but cant remember any of it. I have this unit and wish to fit it to my car and need some simple, reliable advice on installation.

The wiring diagram that comes with the unit...



I have looked all over countless websites that call themselves "experts" on installation and all tell you different things. I simply need to know where to put each wire from my alarm unit, and where to/what wire to connect it to in my car.

I dont know much about alarms etc, but i do know my car and it the downloadable PDF's it says that all 1995 BMW E36s had EWS security system installed. This is NOT the case. Certainly not in my case anyway. Mines a 1995 and there is no factory installed security.

I am looking forward to hearing from someone!

All 3 Series (UK) had EWS from 92 it's a white cigarette sized box behind the glovebox or beneath the instrument panels.
Way to check, permanent to light green and violet, then flash the light GREEN/ black starter wire. If it starts without the key in the car then you don't have EWS.
If you're installing an alarm its irrelevant, only relevant to a remote start.
All your alarm wiring goes behind the glovebox.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hawk probably have a diagram for your car, you'll need a key in a box to bypass the EWS.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for replying. Yes the alarm i wish to install does have a remote start feature but its not something ill be using.

Have just sent Hawk an email, so hopefully theyll be able to help me. Like i said, i had a 1994 318is years ago and i fitted one of those generic 30 quid ones from ebay, and i didint have to bypass anything. One of those moments where i wish id kept all my old printouts from sources on the internet.

If you aren't using the RS don't worry about the EWS.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi all,

Been a while since I posted on here due to a house move. After my last post I managed to get the Hawk unit "in", and at least immobilising the car. My plan was to finish off the installation this week and get everything working, except the remote start, which I never intended using. Don't see the point.

I did indeed get a wiring diagram from hawk and have at least managed to get hold of instructions regarding the central locking. Wether they are correct or not remains to be seen as I have yet to put them into practice. And I have finally (yeah I know, sad) managed to get myself a voltmeter. However, today I had planned to start work but recently a problem appeared with the alarm. Everything was fine initially but it recently started re arming itself when it shouldn't. Normally, if you don't start the engine or turn on the power, or open a door (this part wasn't wired up yet), it would re arm. But it has started doing it even when the engine is running, and the only way to stop this from happening is to open the bonnet, thereby utilising the bonnet pin switch. I did a long inspection of every connected wire so far and nothing appears to have changed. Also, the unit is now not immobilising the ignition. I can arm it with the remote and still start the car!!!!!!!

I do have faith in these alarms as I have used more than one before, and on different cars. Anyone got any ideas. I have googled, and searched and searched but got nowhere!

Phil

Frankly I should have made the point that I wouldn't touch one with yours!
I did some install work for them some time ago every single unit turned out to be faulty for different reasons.
Viper
Avital
Code-Alarm
Cobra
All decent product that will work on your car.
P.S. On a car of that age, a good test light is far quicker than a DMM.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the info earlier.

Today I have managed to have a go at it and basically started from scratch, as before it was a bit of a rushed install, I will admit.

Everything arms and disarms when it should and its now using the ZKE or body control module to activate the central locking, door triggers etc. Better than having the actuator in the drivers door, which I was using before. Interestingly, all the information I found pointed to two wires found in the yellow (or purple) plug in the ZKE module, one of which I just couldn't find. Turns out that on many E36 models, the wire going into pin 4 wasn't present, simply adding it solved to problem. I obtained a used ZKE plug and used a wire from that rather than just "shoving" it into the gap.

However (and you knew this was coming!), I have searched and googled etc, but cant find an answer. Everything locks, windows roll up etc. when activated by my remote fob EXCEPT the drivers door. I have double and triple checked and can find no reason for this. Anyone had a similar experience, and thus, any ideas as to a solution.

Phil

Further to the info on my last post.
When I lock the car using the fob, it is deadlocking, the windows roll up and I have even got the sunroof closing, but nothing from the drivers door.

The key still works as it should in that door, and using the interior door pin still has to same effect on the central locking, but just remains inactive when using the fob for the alarm.

Phil

Thought id bump this. I've spent hours searching virtually every media form on the internet and still can find no explanation.

HELP!!!!

Driver's door actuator not working, try locking from the passenger side and see what happens. Pin 4 opposite pin 17 unlock was vacant until 1996 when they changed to a mauve plug.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the info and the suggestion. After much routing around in my garage, turns out that yes, the drivers door actuator is faulty. When I depress the passenger one, all except the drivers door lock and unlock. Chances are it has been like this since I have owned the car although I would never have noticed it. Prior to the alarm installation I was using the key, and after installation I was using an actuator in the drivers door, so effectively still using the key.

For a while there I thought it was an alarm problem! Replacement ordered.

Phil

All of the e36 models now giving 3 problems.
1) Driver door actuator knackered.
2) Problems with the window mechs.
3) Glove boxes falling apart especially if some thrower has run audio, RCA, amp and switching power through them badly.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The auto PC correction program used thrower instead of my original word so I'll say idiot.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.