2011 toyota sienna

Trying to figure out the cleanest and most reliable setup for a bypass and remote start for my sienna. I want a remote that has capability to activate both sliding doors too. So far, looking at pictures of remotes, all I've found is the Audiovox Prestige APS 687E. Is this any good? Reliable? etc. Before looking at the actual remotes, seems everyone prefers Viper or Compustar.

I'm looking to do this on my own. I wanted to go with the Toyota oem setup but reading into it more I found that you cannot unlock or open any doors or else the remote start will stall out the engine for safety. This is why I'm beginning to research aftermarket setups. I want my wife to be able to warm the van up and remotely open the sliding doors to put kids in without it stalling.

What parts would you all suggest for the most reliable and simple to install remote start and bypass?

My initial thought was idatalink ads-tb and the auxiovox prestige aps 687e.

Something come to mind as more reliable/reputable? Or simpler to install? I'd prefer to never have to buy an expensive cable to flash update firmware, which maybe I'd never have to update it but who knows. I'd really prefer plug and play but I feel like I can be pretty sure there's nothing like that out there besides Toyota oem.

Thanks for any advice. Sorry if anything I'm asking sounds dumb, I'm still trying to learn up on all the aftermarket remote starting ins and outs.

Just did one of those. Should have taken photos and done a Pictorial. I used a Compustar CS700-s with a PKALL as the bypass.
The vehicle was an LE with AWD, no alarm and the "G" ignition key. You can get both sliding doors by using the Trunk Release
output for one and the 2nd Unlock for the other.   Pretty straight forward with connections at the main ignition harness and the
Body ECM connectors. All under the drivers side dash.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I like the prestige units. Only setback is that the button #1 that would operate the left sliding door only works 1 time while the engine is remote started.

-------------
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Is the one time sliding door / aux button use the same for each button 1 and 2? Does this mean you can power /remote open the door but not close it remotely because you've already used your one button cycle?

I think a 1 and 2 button may be a cleaner/less confusing install than using a trunk/unlock button for the sliders?

Is the install like I want typically expensive at a shop? How do I know the shop will take their time and solder all splices etc? I have a hard time trusting electronics install shops. Used to work at a dealer for 10+ years and we had a guy who did our work. Now I don't have his contact anymore though.

Know anyone in or around frederick maryland to do a known good job I may be willing to pay?!

The one time operation only applies to button #1 on the avox units while remote started. To operate after being started a 2nd time you would have to shut the van off.

-------------
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Just have to program buttons. I use same unit on minivans and can open close both doors independently

What module do you say you prefer on minivans? The prestige or that compustar a previous post mentioned?

I looked up the PKALL. I can't seem to find install instructions besides for the ignition feed. I assume there are many more inputs needed to the bypass module, correct? Is that to be found on the installers own? Or when it is shipped does it come with further instructions or diagrams?

Thanks for the help so far.

The first question is :   Is this Sienna a Push To Start or regular "G" ignition key system? That will be important with regards to the
bypass module needed.

Next question is : Are you more concerned with cost or ease of install?

After that comes : How proficient are you with soldering and Digital Multi Meter usage?

There are no aftermarket plug and play units. All have some level of wiring. The install I finished recently was all hard-wire. No D2D
connection between the R/S and bypass. All functions like door lock, unlock, right & left sliding door, Tach, Brake, Parking Lights and
Horn were direct wire connections to the mini-van. All soldered, very reliable and will out last the vehicle. The down side is using the
DMM to locate and verify each wire. That being said, there are bypass modules like the EVO-ALL that will simplify the install. but they
cost a bit more than the PKALL and you must have them flashed with the correct firmware by the seller prior to shipment.

The PKALL install guide is very accurate and the pictures are good. Basically, three wires to the IMI / IMO wires and three wires to the
R/S for power, ground and GWR. Programming is easy. Also note that the PKALL is a Fortin Key-OverRide-All with DBI D2D. Typical
price is around $30.

The full featured EVO-ALL ( min H/W Ver 3 ) flashed with the correct firmware ( min Ver 79.03 ) goes for around $60, delivered. Here is a
link to the EVO-ALL install guide : https://fortin.ca/download/9051/evo-all_sienna_-_gkey.rev-20130424.pdf

The ADS TB is a good choice but would need the correct firmware flashed on it. For a little more you could get the ADS AL-CA with the
correct TL5 firmware on it. That would equate to the EVO-ALL as far as features.

A lot of choices. Some depend on your budget, others on your needs and some on your tools and skill level.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Regular key.

I don't have much free time so ease of install ranks high. I'll pay a little more if the ease is significantly different.

I just want the van to idle to warm up or cool down and be able to actuate the power locks and sliding doors from the remote as well, unless I can still use the factory keyless entry after the remote start has been actuated.

I was a dealer mechanic for some time so I can install it correctly. But as you can imagine, dealer techs don't have to deal with aftermarket installs etc. I can properly solder and trace and verify my inputs but of course I'd prefer to simply know what I need to tap into and go to work.

Start the van then grab your other key/fob and see if it will let you run the doors and locks

I drove it tonight and forgot to check that pentavolvo. What system is it that you say you like to use when doing minivan remote start/keyless entries? And bypass?

Thanks for the help thus far!

So van idling, get out of it and use the factory remote, nothing will work. Power locks inop, power sliding door buttons inop.

The van was unlocked to get in and start it (with a key, no remote start installed yet). I can grab the sliding door handles and it'll power open them like normal, just not with the touch of a remote button.

Does this mean if I install a simple one button "remote start only" system, my factory remote will become inoperable when remote started?

I assume it would, just wanted verification.

If so, I was looking at the middle-line Viper systems that say they can operate 3 aux functions. How do you go about operating the aux functions beyond the first one? I assume the first is an easy press of the Aux button. What would the second command be to operate the second sliding door?

Thanks, sorry for so many questions just trying to make sure we get what we'll be happy with in this system.

The audiovox prestige and pursuit series have remote like these



They vary slightly but all have the same # of buttons. button #1 is the one I was referring to that only operates once while remote started. The other ones #2 and the green remote start button when pressed and held functions as aux 3. Those all work without limits. Button #1 is only limited while running so when the van is off it will work always, and of course all the vehicle buttons and functions will still work at all times except the factory remote as described earlier.

-------------
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

From talking to a few shops around here they all seem to hate Audiovox stuff. I was leaking towards one of their prestige systems, but everyone says they are nothing but problems. One shop here does alot of dealer work and regular customer work. The dealers get the prestige because of the "factory" look, which is what I Was after with the remote too. They said they are constantly fixing those, whereas the Viper or any Directed brand components are not giving them any problems.

I guess you guys have good luck with audiovox?

racerjames76 wrote:

---

The audiovox prestige and pursuit series have remote like these



They vary slightly but all have the same # of buttons. button #1 is the one I was referring to that only operates once while remote started. The other ones #2 and the green remote start button when pressed and held functions as aux 3. Those all work without limits. Button #1 is only limited while running so when the van is off it will work always, and of course all the vehicle buttons and functions will still work at all times except the factory remote as described earlier.

---

I use these on minivans a lot, you can reprogram the buttons so that 1 and 2 will operate if vehicle is running or not

Honestly easiest way might just be to do a 1 button remote start that will also unlock doors for you, then open sliding doors manually if remote started

Oh yes programming button #1 to another channel. I have had 0 issues with avox..

-------------
To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Is it pretty common for shops that install remote starts and electronics to not solder? Only one shop locally does solder. Every other shop says there is no need to due to no weather under the dash to effect or corrode splices. While I understand that, I still feel soldering would be much better. I did want to do the install myself until I read more and more into it. Now I wonder if it's a job better off for a pro due to the programming and immobilized bypass, but all the shops around here are making me nervous about the way they install.

Most shops want to save time during installs.  Soldering the connections requires more time.  Done properly, nothing beats a quality solder connection.  Done wrong, soldering can cause big problems.  It does require practice & some skill along with decent tools.

If you have a DMM, are handy with a soldering iron and don't mind spending a few hours on your knees with your head next to the steering wheel, the car is pretty easy to do. 

I kinda like the Audiovox Prestige APS687E for this install ( even though I used a Compustar on the last one ).  The Viper 4606V is another good choice, but a bit more expensive.  With the Viper, you have 4 AUX outputs.  Using them from the remote is painless.  If you want AUX3, you press the "f" button 3 times, then the AUX button.

Here is a photo of the Body ECU ( under the driver side dash ) where most of the connections can be made :

 Using an APS687E with a PKALL will run about $110 and give nice results.  Going to a local shop and getting the Viper will go about $450.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Would viper still be more reliable than the 687e? Or does that just seem to be a preference with no real founded reasoning?

Can I buy a PKALL already flashed and ready to plug and play into my van? Any advice as to where to purchase from? My worry doing it on my own is if the module comes flashed wrong, am I then disabled and incapable of starting the van since the immobilizer system has been tampered with?

And when you buy a remote start and bypass module, do they come with at least something to indicate what wire goes to what? Ex, purple with white tracer goes to ignition signal, etc etc. Or are there no directions at all? I have read there is barely any support for the diy'er.

Is the viper I was considering if viper is that much better. How would you use aux functions passed aux 1? I don't see an f button. The owners manual wasn't very clear to me. And viper is apparently the worst for the average consumer to install because they don't give a diagram or info?

Very true.  The manufacturer's will not warrant or provide Tech Support for DIY'ers.   The Viper installed price might
start looking better when you think about the lifetime warranty and lack of 6 hours of your own labor.

On that style remote the "f" button is on the side.  Here is a photo from an EBay listing that shows it better :

The install guide for the PKALL is very good and the included pictures are excellent.  Here is a link to that install guide :
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6832&productid=196&firmwareid=1636
It is essentially the same unit as the Fortion Key-Override-ALL.  Here is that install guide for comparison :
https://fortin.ca/download/2121/key-override-all_toyota_sienna_-_g_key_(2011).rev-b.pdf

As for the R/S install guide, the APS687E unit comes with the full guide.  However, the they do not provide detailed
info about the programming options, etc.  The Viper unit only comes with a very brief 2 page guide with the connector
pin-outs and the programming tables.  The 12Volt Downloads sections has some but not all of the Viper install guides.
The newest model guides are hard to find, even on the WEB.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Just a note about the Viper 4606V.  While it can support several, it only comes with one remote transmitter. 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

In anyone's opinion, is there a good reason to go with the 4806 over the 4606? I only see that you gain 2 way communication and two remotes, one of which is one way.

If I went with the 4606 one way, is it the same module, just a different remote? Say down the road I add a remote, am I two way capable or is The module between the two different?