compustar keeps running the starter motor

So I'm installing a Compustar CS-6102AS on my JDM 92 Toyota MR2. I specify JDM because some of the wiring colors were different than the USDM models, but I tested them all according to the Compustar manual. However, I could be wrong.

My problem is that when I remote start the car it starts up fine, but then I can hear what sounds like the starter motor clicking in the engine bay while the engine is running. It sounds like it's still trying to start the car. This keeps going on and on. If I put the key in the ignition and turn it the sound goes away. Any ideas? Do I have a wire hooked up wrong maybe?

I should also mention that I tried both the default tachless setting and the tach setting where it learned the tach and this happened both ways.

Not sure on your JDM model but the U.S. vehicles had one Starter wire, one Accessory wire and two Ignition
wires.  If you got the Starter wire mixed with the Ignition2 wire it could act like that.  The Starter wire should
be real easy to ID - it only gets +12V while the starter motor is cranking ( key in START position ).

What are you using for the Tach connection?  That is how I would run it.  Here is the info from ReadyRemote :
Tachometer     BLACK/ White  (ac)     @ check connector **
**  The check connector is on the right rear of the engine compartment.

There were some Toyota's around that time frame that needed the Ignition1 wire relay isolated from the switch
during a remote start to prevent starter grinding.  Too far back to remember but I think the Paseo was one of
the affected models.

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Soldering is fun!

Interesting. I guess I could try isolating the ignition1 wire with a relay. Do you have any more information on that? I found a couple different diagrams for doing it on a celica so I'm not sure how to hook it up correctly.

The starter wire I'm using tested correctly. For the tach I'm using the check connector in the engine bay. Except the wire is black instead of BLACK/ white. I have the problem even if I'm on tachless ignition though. Thanks for your help.

There are many ways to wire it up.  Some depend on the R/S being used and it's available outputs.  Here
is one way to do it.

Use a standard Bosch style automotive 30/40 Amp SPDT relay.  Wire as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to CM600 Pin 4 Black (-) Status/GWR Output ( assuming this wire is currently un-used )
Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant ( through 2 Amp fuse, optional ) or CN4 Pin 1 Red wire
Relay Pin 87 to CM600 thick Green IGN1 output wire
Relay Pin 30 to vehicle side of cut Ignition1 wire
Relay Pin 87a to ignition key/switch side of cut Ignition1 wire

The Ignition1 wire will be isolated as soon as the CM600 initiates it's remote start routine and turns on the
GWR wire.  A few seconds later, the CM600 will turn on the Ignition 1, Ignition 2 and Accessory circuits, then
drop the Accessory circuit power while it energizes the Starter wire.  Once the engine starts ( Tach sense ),
the Starter wire goes back to 0V and the Accessory wire is re-energized.

The hard part might be determining which wire is Ignition1 if your wire colors are different.  On some Nissan's
it is the Accessory wire that must be isolated.

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Soldering is fun!

Wow thanks a lot. Does it have to be on tach sense mode too? Because when I was testing my tach wire I wasn't getting alternating current. It was pretty much staying around 14V which I thought was weird since that's the wire the diagram for the MR2 says to use. Since I was trying tachless mode I didn't think that mattered for now.

I like to run in Tach Mode.  It is more reliable.  Don't forget to program the CM600 for Tach Mode first.  Menu 2-04 to Option 2.  The Tach signal can be located with a DMM set to 20V AC.  Typical reading are between 1 and 6 volts AC and it should rise slightly with RPM's.   You can even try using a F.I. or coil.  Here is the Tach Learn procedure :

To Learn Tach:
STEP 1. Start the vehicle with the key and allow it to idle down
STEP 2. Press and hold the foot brake
STEP 3. While holding the foot brake, hold the remote start button on the remote for 2.5 seconds
One parking light flash indicates that the vehicle tachometer signal has been successfully learned. Three parking
light flashes indicate that the control module failed to learn the tachometer signal.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok I just finished isolating the ignition1 wire with a relay and it still has the same problem. Is it possible I should isolate the ignition2 wire? This is so frustrating now.

Pretty sure they didn't have a transponder system in place on the ignition back in 1992, so that shouldn't
be the issue.  Will a plain metal key made at the local hardware store start the engine?

I believe the CM600 will only crank for 5 seconds, max.  If it is cranking longer than that, I would swap out the
CM600 ( assuming I was 100% sure of my ignition connections and ignition wire ID's ). 

Next would be isolating the other Ignition wire.  Perhaps it is IGN1 and the one you have isolated now is IGN2.

Of course isolating Ignition1 could cause problems with Tachless Mode, if they are using the Ignition1 wire
as input for the voltage sensing circuits.  But that wouldn't cause over-cranking.  It would start the engine, dis-
engage the Starter and then turn everything off after a few seconds if it didn't see a rise in voltage from the
alternator.

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Soldering is fun!

Well now I'm at a loss.

A regular key will start the car, yes, there is no transponder.

I tried isolating the ignition2 wire and the car just didn't start at all.

I figured out that the wiring colours are actually the same as listed for the USDM MR2 after the connector past the key. I triple checked them with a multi-meter and they all do what the manual says they should do.

I don't have another CM600 and I don't really want to buy another one just to check. I bought this system brand new online a year ago.

No matter what I tried, when I start the car with the fob the starter motor just keeps cranking and doesn't stop. If I turn the key in the ignition it stops, but then if I turn the key back to OFF the car starts itself up automatically again and keeps cranking. It will do this until I shut it down by pressing the brake pedal.

Strange.  With IGN2 isolated it wouldn't crank or cranked but wouldn't start?  Perhaps you have Relay Pin 30 and 87a reversed ( key switch side and vehicle side )?

Maybe if you listed your actual connections for CN1, CN2 and CN3 someone on the forum might see the issue.

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Soldering is fun!

With the IGN2 isolated I would hear the fan start up, but it wouldn't crank at all. I can check if I have it reversed but I don't think so. I can post up my connections in a bit. Thanks.

The connections I have are:

CN1 (pin #, Remote start colour, Car wire colour)
1 Red -- Blk/Red, 12V
2 GREEN / WHITE -- Green, parking lights
3 RED / white -- Blk/Red, 12V
4 White -- Blue/Red, Accessory
5 Blue -- BLACK/ orange, Ignition2
6 Yellow -- Red, starter
7 Green -- BLACK / YELLOW, Ignition1
8 Black -- Ground

CN2
1 GREEN / WHITE -- green, parking lights
2 RED / black -- N/A, 2nd starter
3 N/A, 2nd Accessory
4 N/A, Negative output when running
5 N/A, factory arm
6 N/A, factory disarm
7 N/A, horn
8 Grey/black -- switch, hood pin
9 Blue/white -- GREEN / WHITE, brake
10 N/A, negative pulse
11 N/A, positive pulse
12 Yellow/black -- Black in engine bay connector, tach

The other connectors not listed here are for the alarm.

Is the ignition switch connector accessible? If so disconnect it from the switch and then do a remote start. If the problem goes away then the issue is with a power feed that needs to be isolated during keyless remote starts, you can determine which power feed needs to be isolated by taking said disconnected switch and with a continuity meter checking which power feed (ign 1, ign2, acc) shows continuity to the starter terminal with the ignition off and key removed.

Try using the low tach threshold.
I'm unfimilar with that model.
But sometimes it let's you adjust the threshold by percentage. And sometimes it just gives you the option of high med low threshold.
Set the threshold to low. Relearn tach.

catback wrote:

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Is the ignition switch connector accessible? If so disconnect it from the switch and then do a remote start. If the problem goes away then the issue is with a power feed that needs to be isolated during keyless remote starts, you can determine which power feed needs to be isolated by taking said disconnected switch and with a continuity meter checking which power feed (ign 1, ign2, acc) shows continuity to the starter terminal with the ignition off and key removed.

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So I checked continuity and got the following:
010 between starter and ign1
004 between starter and ign2
600 between starter and acc

Are those values too low for ign1 and ign2? I'm not sure what to do about that.

I've also realised that the blower motor is not coming on when remote started. And a bunch of warning lights are illuminated on the dash. They go away and the fan starts once I turn the key to Acc or On. So it's like the remote start is not recognizing the car has started. I'm ready to throw this POS in the trash and buy a Viper unit and see if it works. This is driving me crazy.

I've had good results with the CM600 units. No DOA's and no come-backs yet.

The wiring looks OK except for the CN1Pin 2 and the CN2 Pin 1 connections. Hopefully they aren't going to the same vehicle wire.
You only need one of them connected. I typically used the CN2 Pin 1 (-) Parking Light output if possible and convenient. This would
connect to this wire in your car :     Parking Lights (-) Light GREEN/ Red     @ steering column

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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I've had good results with the CM600 units. No DOA's and no come-backs yet.

The wiring looks OK except for the CN1Pin 2 and the CN2 Pin 1 connections. Hopefully they aren't going to the same vehicle wire.
You only need one of them connected. I typically used the CN2 Pin 1 (-) Parking Light output if possible and convenient. This would
connect to this wire in your car :     Parking Lights (-) Light GREEN/ Red     @ steering column

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I did have them both connected to the same wire. I disconnected one of them now and still have the same problem.

Do the Parking Lights flash with a lock or unlock?

Have you checked the CM600 ignition outputs with a DMM?  It sounds like the Accessory output / connection isn't working if the heater fan isn't powered.  Think I would disconnect them one at a time, put the DMM on that lead and hit the R/S button just to see if they are outputting and sequencing properly.  Then reconnect and move on to the next one.  Something if very wrong.

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Soldering is fun!

andrewiffic wrote:

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So I checked continuity and got the following:
010 between starter and ign1
004 between starter and ign2
600 between starter and acc

Are those values too low for ign1 and ign2? I'm not sure what to do about that.

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I'm not sure what measurement those values are and if they are taken from the switch with the connector unplugged.

You didn't answer the question of whether the remote start functions properly with the ignition switch disconnected.

Alright the problem has been fixed. Sorry to waste all your time. 2 problems: I had to isolate the starter wire using a relay. And I had the wrong starter wire. Doh. Apparently I can't follow a wire through a connector when I'm upside down under the steering wheel and the wires all change colour at the connector. The correct starter wire goes from a thin guage red wire on one side to a thick BROWN / red wire on the other side. I incorrectly traced it to a thick WHITE/ black right next to it that tested up the same. Needless to say, my bad! Thanks for the suggestions, I still wouldn't have figured out how to isolate the starter wire without your tips. It works properly now.