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2011 honda accord lx-s remote startPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137644 Printed Date: September 20, 2024 at 7:57 PM Topic: 2011 honda accord lx-s remote start Posted By: misturnice Subject: 2011 honda accord lx-s remote start Date Posted: November 10, 2014 at 11:43 AM I have a 2011 Honda Accord LX-S that I wish to install a remote start into
I looked up a relatively inexpensive remote start - Avital 4103LX and found a bypass - DEI DBALL2 If you have a better alternative (not looking for the most expensive remote start, just a decent remote start) better bang for your buck. My question is the bypass part - how would I program it, change settings (does it come with software, do I have to get any accessories to program it)? Or is it pre-programmed, and ready to go once I wire everything up. Also if anyone can provide me with what are the necessary connections needed to be made given the Remote start and bypass I listed. From the posts I've seen, some people find ways to use less wires, more wires, connect it different ways, I just want a concrete method of installation. Any help would be great. ------------- misturnice Replies: Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 10, 2014 at 8:16 PM The Avital 4103 and the DB-ALL2 is a pretty cost effective way to add R/S & keyless entry to that vehicle. The 4103 can handle all the
ignition circuits without any additional relays. You should be able to find an on-line dealer that will flash the correct firmware on to the DB-ALL2 prior to shipment. There might be a small additional fee for this but it is less expensive than buying the XKLoader2 USB cable. There is a full 4103 install guide in the Downloads Section and the DB-ALL2 w/Honda56 firmware install guide is available at the XPressKit WEB site. The only possible "gotcha" would be switching the Avital 4103's Data port over to DBI D2D from ESP, assuming you decide to go with D2D. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward install. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 11:12 AM Thank you for your reply.
I have been reading up on bypasses and it seems the general consensus is DBALL2 is not as good as idatalink due to buggy installs. If I were to go with idatalink, the spec sheets show exactly all the connections I need to make; and leaves myself with about a handful of wires needed to connect to the vehicle. The biggest question is the differences between the idatalink hardware - ADS ALCA is the one that is universal to almost all cars - is this the one that I want; and what is the differences or adavantages of the other bypasses offered by idatalink. Lastly, a big question I have is the concern of people saying they would rather wire it Wire to Wire, over Data to Data? What is that specifically, and how would that differ between the two. I assume the method offered in the installation guides on idatalink and dball are all D2D rather than Wire 2 Wire? Pros and cons of either, and how do they differ (what do I actually use on the bypass, and what exactly do I connect to the car) etc. Sorry if these questions have been answered, but navigating the site is a learning curve. Thanks again! ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 11:18 AM Also when you state -
The only possible "gotcha" would be switching the Avital 4103's Data port over to DBI D2D from ESP, assuming you decide to go with D2D. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward install. What is ESP? and what would the process be to switch to D2D? This might be answered if I understood what D2D connections are and what W2W connections are, and how they would differ in the same application. Thanks again! ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 12:15 PM Looking at the install diagram of the idatalink - compared to the remote start.
There are dashed black lines stating - Not required in data mode (1-way) and solid red lines (not required in data mode (2 way) What is the difference between the two and what is really needed. What is E-Brake Status (-) - idatalink when the remote start only has (-) neutral safety switch input What is Disarm (-) output? trunk (-) output? 12V(+) for the idatalink - does that go to both Reds +(30 A) High Current 12V Input? There is a ground for both remote start and idatalink however, GWR(-) is not shown on the remote start side Also, let's say the remote start did not come with; right sliding door or tailgate window (-) output Left sliding door (-) output Disarm (-) output GWR (-) What do I do with those? Do I leave them unconnected? Lastly, There are a bunch of heavy wires not connected from remote start to bypass; such as Output to ignition circuit, output to start circuit, output to accessory circuit, programmable output for accessory or ignition? Should I go soley on the idatalink data sheet and connect only what I have on the remote start side? Or if it's missing do I have to find it in the car, and hardwire it to the bypass side/remote start side? I'm a bit lost with some remote starts having less functionality. ------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 7:07 PM OK, I'll try to answer in order. The DB-ALL2 is getting better or so I've been told. I started with ADS iDatalink products when they first came out The ADS AL-CA flashed with ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 is nice in the fact that it has a separate Disarm input, instead of W2W vs D2D. Talk about a learning curve... W2W is easy. You just make the connections between the bypass D2D is passing all the info between the bypass module and the R/S via a 4 Pin harness. Makes things neat and To use as D2D mode follow the below steps: If you spend some time looking over and studying the DB-ALL2 install guide and compare it to the ADS DL HA3 My suggestion to you is make up a wire chart showing your proposed connection and post it for Forum Member ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 9:12 PM I wrote down all the wires from the remote start, and the iDatalink and tried to connect them all together with what I have. Could you verify it for me?
Primary Harness (H1) H1/1 Factory Alarm Disarm ???? H1/2 Factory Rearm ???? H1/3 (+) Ignition Out (To Alarm) ???? H1/4 (-) Activation Input ???? H1/5 (-) Ground When Locked ???? where does this go H1/6 (-) Horn Output GREEN/ YELLOW (Green 42 pin plug) H1/7 (-) Trunk Release Output orange (Green 42 pin plug) H1/8 Ground chassis ground? H1/9 (+/-) Light Flash (is this parking lights?) (-) Gray Pin 11, 12 pin connector Does the iDataLink deal with these connectors ^? 4-pin satellite harness diagram Is this the D2D 4 pin cable? 1 Status Output 2 (-) Accessory Output 3 (-) Starter Output 4 (-) Starter Output Heavy Gauge Relay Wiring Diagram 1 (+) (30 AMP) Output to ignition circuit Blue Ignition Wire 2 (+) (30 AMP) Output to Starter Circuit Yellow Starter Wire 3 (+) (30 AMP) Output to Accessory Circuit Orange Accessory Wire 4 (+) (30 A) High Current 12 Input White +12 Volt 5 (+) Programmable Output for Accessory or Ignition Fuse with (+) Output to Accessory? 6 (+) (30A) High Current 12 V input Fuse with White +12 Volt? Are these wires always connected to the ignition system? Or does the bypass deal with these? Door lock harness, 3-pin connector 1 (-) Unlock Output idatalink? Or white and Brown at same time, diode isolate 2 Not used 3 (-) Lock Output idatalink? Or Orange Switch in driver door Remote Start Harness (H2) wiring diagram H2/1 (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input idatalink? Lt Green at Parking brake switch H2/2 Tachometer Input Wire idatalink? H2/3 (+) Brake Switch Shutdown Wire idatalink? Green at Brake Switch H2/4 (-) Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Wire idatalink? H2/5 (-) 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output iDataLink states WHITE/ Black (-) output – connect to driver door pin to turn off head lamps on vehicles equipped with auto headlights?? White – Ground connect to ground BROWN / Red Can H CanH – pin 4 key cylinder BROWN / Yellow Can L CanL – pin 3 key cylinder ORANGE / Black – Key Data Data – pin 6 key cylinder Pink – Ignition (+) Ignition (+) – pin 2 Does this mean, the primary wiring Heavy Gauge wires don’t need to be connected? How do I know which wires need to be connected to the car, and which wires need to be connected to the idatalink? Overall I’m confused, on what exactly needs to be connected where. To help break it down for me, should I do Data 2 Data? which is the use of only the Data cable and no additional connections between the R/S and bypass << is that correct? Is wire to wire, connecting everything between the Remote starter and bypass, without the use of Data mode < or do I have to connect all the wires between the R/S and the bypass along with the data cable? Or can I choose to connect the R/S to wires in the car, and connect the Data cable to the R/S and bypass? Could you start with the basics of what should always be connected to what? - or based off my scenario? What wires are always connected to the vehicle from the Remote start? i.e. the Ground, +12V, Starter, Accessory, Accessory 2, Ignition? < iDataLink shows me connections to make from the bypass to the car, so that I understand. Lets say I connect the data cable between the remote start and bypass, what wires do I need to wire together?; can I wire all the ones that match together, and still leave the data cable? Can I leave the data cable out, and connect straight bypass to remote start? Can I connect remote start wires straight to the car? How does the bypass work (or what has to be connected for it to work?) I have the XpressKit wiring diagram in front of me, as well as the iDataLink, and not all of the connections are the same. Such as parking lights connected in Dball and not idatalink. data cable connection between the DBALL and R/S is not present, however is present in idatalink. ignition is connected to bypass for idatalink. dball states connecting the remote start gorund 12V starter accessory ignition to the car, however idatalink as none of those connected to the car. Thank you for your time, and sorry for the redundant questions. I promise I'm not incompetent just a bit confused, and would love to have the concept understood before purchasing everything ------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 9:51 PM First, try to get a FLCAN bypass module flashed with FLC-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware. Here is a link to the install guide : Here is the wiring if you are going to go D2D : Primary Harness (H1) 4-pin satellite harness diagram Heavy Gauge Relay Wiring Diagram Door lock harness, 3-pin connector Remote Start Harness (H2) wiring diagram iDataLink FLCAN Besides making the necessary programming changes to the Viper noted above, you must follow the FLCAN guide ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 10:06 PM Thanks for the great information. Out of curiosity, how were you to decide on a FLCAN over a ADS ALCA.
I'm curious because I would like to learn the procedure to do this on a variety of other cars, and what to look for when choosing components. how would I know which bypass module to use with different cars, such as my honda civic 07 Auto, Mitsubishi lancer 08 auto, 2014 Subaru forester 4cyl auto, etc. I was hoping to be able to use understand a single bypass which would be universal to all - but if you could educate me on how to choose the correct bypass, that works as well. As for the program viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 < where is this programming taking place? And I believe the accord has auto headlights (this is my friend's car I'll be installing on) If it does, do you know the wire location for this? And if it doesn't have auto headlights, do I leave it unconnected? Ultimately looking at the list you have provided, everything is connected D2D, where the bypass is concerned. And where additional connections such as trunk pop, horns, headlights, the remote start connects straight to the vehicle? ------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 10:07 PM Answers : Does this mean, the primary wiring Heavy Gauge wires don’t need to be connected? How do I know which wires need to be connected to the car, and which wires need to be connected to the idatalink? To help break it down for me, should I do Data 2 Data? which is the use of only the Data cable and no additional connections between the R/S and bypass << is that correct? Is wire to wire, connecting everything between the Remote starter and bypass, without the use of Data mode < or do I have to connect all the wires between the R/S and the bypass along with the data cable? Or can I choose to connect the R/S to wires in the car, and connect the Data cable to the R/S and bypass? Could you start with the basics of what should always be connected to what? - or based off my scenario? What wires are always connected to the vehicle from the Remote start? i.e. the Ground, +12V, Starter, Accessory, Accessory 2, Ignition? < iDataLink shows me connections to make from the bypass to the car, so that I understand. Lets say I connect the data cable between the remote start and bypass, what wires do I need to wire together?; can I wire all the ones that match together, and still leave the data cable? Can I leave the data cable out, and connect straight bypass to remote start? Can I connect remote start wires straight to the car? How does the bypass work (or what has to be connected for it to work?) I have the XpressKit wiring diagram in front of me, as well as the iDataLink, and not all of the connections are the same. Such as parking lights connected in Dball and not idatalink. data cable connection between the DBALL and R/S is not present, however is present in idatalink. dball states connecting the remote start gorund 12V starter accessory ignition to the car, however idatalink as none of those connected to the car. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 12, 2014 at 10:31 PM More answers : Thanks for the great information. Out of curiosity, how were you to decide on a FLCAN over a ADS ALCA. I'm curious because I would like to learn the procedure to do this on a variety of other cars, and what to look for when choosing components. how would I know which bypass module to use with different cars, such as my honda civic 07 Auto, Mitsubishi lancer 08 auto, 2014 Subaru forester 4cyl auto, etc. I was hoping to be able to use understand a single bypass which would be universal to all - but if you could educate me on how to choose the correct bypass, that works as well. As for the program viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 < where is this programming taking place? And I believe the accord has auto headlights (this is my friend's car I'll be installing on) If it does, do you know the wire location for this? And if it doesn't have auto headlights, do I leave it unconnected? Ultimately looking at the list you have provided, everything is connected D2D, where the bypass is concerned. And where additional connections such as trunk pop, horns, headlights, the remote start connects straight to the vehicle? ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 10:31 AM You have been very informative, and thank you for that!
Connection wise - I have a better understanding now. The only problems I'm not 100% sure on is the bypass types. When choosing a bypass for D2D and a DEI product such as Avital 4103, would you go straight for the FLCAN over the idatalink? If I chose anther DEI R/S (Viper 4104 lets say) would it be the same wiring procedure with the FLCAN, or would the R/S affect the choice of bypass. Did you choose FLCAN because it is automatically in D2D? Thus you would use DEI's DBALL, because it's automatically in D2D because their products are D2D? If I chose to go w/ W2W over D2D, datalink over FLCAN would be a better option because I'm not using D2D? Also do you know if both the FLCAN and idatalink uses the same firmware flash cable? would it be easier to use DEI's DBALL just because everything seems simplified with DEI R/S with DEI bypass. I'm trying to learn for own personal knowledge and gratification, and would love to install the same/similar set ups on a list of these cars 11 Accord, 07 Civic, 08 Lancer, 14 Forester. Let's say I chose a DEI product like Avital 4103 - would the FLCAN be applicable to all of them in D2D. (Which refers back to above questions of does D2D dictate the bypass choice?, would R/S dictate bypass choice, would car dictate bypass choice, etc.) If you know of any place I could read up on all these questions I'm asking that would be great also. Most of the DIY guides I've seen, everyone has already chosen a bypass + R/S, and it's all programed and they show where the wire connections go to. I understand the wire connections now, but the choosing and programing is the part I'm not 100% confident on. Thank you again for taking your time to answer my questions. ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 11:28 AM I did a little more research, and was initially turned off by Fortin's EVO all price, however, they're all within the same ballpark range, in order of
DBALL > idatalink, FLCAN > Fortin Which one would you recommend I go with (this is so I could do an install on the variety of cars I have mentioned, and for future reference). Easy as in programming wise, user friendly, and overall opinion. ------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 12:11 PM The FLCAN is hardware identical to the ADS AL-CA. They are both made by ADS iDatalink and can use the same As an installer, you get to know the strengths and weaknesses of the various products, both R/S and bypass module. In your case, a basic one-way, standard range, R/S w/keyless entry into a 2011 Honda Accord LX-s, there are many There are basically thre manufactures, ADS, Fortin and DEI XpressKit. If you visit each WEB site and look up your It's a lot of research but the internet is a great tool. There is no one site that can give you all the info or a cookbook ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 5:45 PM That makes sense, so in a sense I can use the ADS-ALCA if I purchased the D2D cable, and bought the cable to flash the software (from the idatalink website). Apparently as long as I create an account, I can download and flash any software. Correct me if I'm wrong.
The FLCAN is just comes with a D2D cable, and is already flashed to D2D mode? - however, I would still need the same cable from above to flash the software for the car? - just one less cable to purchase with the FLCAN vs ADS-ALCA. If I went with the ADS-ALCA, I would purchase the cable needed for firmware flashing (due to research dictating that the firmwares can be flashed through their website w/ an account; dispite everyone saying you need to be a dealer). If this is true, could I just go w/ the ADS and just flash it to do the same as FLCAN - and have the same features, or am I missing something else that the FLCAN has as well. Lastly, if I chose to not purchase the D2D cable, I could just do W2W. Which protocol would I go with? DBI D2D protocol needs to be flashed for D2D correct? (what does DBI mean anyway?) However, if I went with W2W, what protocol is it named? ------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 7:30 PM Still some confusion here. Not sure if I can explain it any better. To flash the correct firmware on to the module you need the ADS USB cable. It is a USB cable that connects to a PC The other cable we have been talking about is the D2D harness. It is the cable that is installed with the R/S system If we confine our conversation to the ADS AL-CA and your specific application, you will find that there are several ADS-AL(TB)-HA W2W is just that, wire to wire. The R/S unit outputs a (-) Lock command signal as a (-) one second pulse on a wire.
------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 7:42 PM I understand that the idatalink needs the ADS USB cable to flash the bypass.
I might be confused on what the DBI meaning is "There are basically two types of D2D harnesses, one for DBI and one for iDatalink & Flashlink protocol." The FLCAN includes the D2D harness, but you're positive on ADS not providing the D2D harness. In this even I would use wire to wire connection, and bypass the use of D2D. However, I could purchase the D2D harness, flash it to the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 and I would be able to wire it D2D same as the FLCAN correct? I'm just trying to see why FLCAN > idatalink, and it seems the only difference is the D2D wire, however, if I obtained the D2D wire, I could wire it up the same exact way as FLCAN w/ D2D, and the same flash of ADS-AL(DL)-HA3. Did I get it wrong? ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 7:45 PM Also, where do you see DBI-AL(TB)HA3? I see ADS-AL(TB)-HA on the firmware for idatalink, but not DBI
------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 8:24 PM "I understand that the idatalink needs the ADS USB cable to flash the bypass. " "The FLCAN includes the D2D harness, but you're positive on ADS not providing the D2D harness. In this even I would use wire to wire connection, and bypass the use of D2D. However, I could purchase the D2D harness, flash it to the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 and I would be able to wire it D2D same as the FLCAN correct? " The last batch of ADS TB bypass modules I received only had one D2D harness in the kit. It is not the D2D type Still having trouble explaining this... DBI is the name for the comm protocol used by DEI R/S units on their D2D port. It is also used by other R/S In the Caravan Pictorial I linked to previously, the Avital 4113 R/S system was used. It is almost identical to the ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 8:32 PM Here is the iDatalink link I use : https://www.idatalink.com/support There are two full featured ( DL) firmware listed, ADS-AL(DL)-HA3 and DBI-AL(DL)-HA3. The DBI version is the same as ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 10:08 PM I think the hardest part about learning anything is to do learn everything off of theory. Rather than having the product in my hands and flashing it to see the available flashes, and actually doing it. Thus, I'm sorry for my slow learning curve.
Th reason I'm asking for a lot of questions is because I would like to stick to one bypass, and learn how to do as much as I can with it, and the ADS ALCA seems to be the most universal. (However, if it ends up being too complicated, I'd go for the proven explained FLCAN you mentioned earlier). If I were to use the ADS-ALCA, I would need to flash it with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 (not the ADS-AL(DL)-HA3). I would need to purchase the separate D2D cable, ADS-HRN DBI?. And I would wire it completely the same as the FLCAN - flashed with the FLC-AL(DL)-HA3. I would wire everything D2D as shown in the previous page. ^ Is this true for all D2D, regardless of manufacturer of the R/S? If I don't purchase the D2D cable, I would still flash it to DBI-AL(DL)-HA3, and connect it wire to wire? If it's not too much of a hassle, could you specify which wires on the Avital 4103 would need to be connected W2W, so I can see the comparison of W2W compared to D2D? ^Trying to see both sides of W2W and D2D. ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 10:15 PM After rereading the previous post, I see that you said DEI produces utilize the DBI protocol, so if I stuck to DEI products, I would be easier off with the FLCAN for the installs if I were to go D2D - due to having a D2D cable already included, and the proper DBI protocol already flashed. (Or I would need to flash it again regardless for the vehicle)
However, If I stuck with ADS, I would need to flash it to the vehicle, as well as flash it for DBI Protocol. And the D2D cable would be purchased to run D2D. However, if I were to run W2W, it would negate the need for D2D cable, and negate the need for the proper protocol? Thus it makes me wonder, how do you know what's the protocol already on the device, and what firmware has the correct protocol? ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 10:32 PM Also, if I were to go W2W, I would need to cut the Data Cable supplied with the bypass (Regardless of the configuration) to run a +12V and a Ground. However, if I were to run D2D, the cable stays in tack (granted the two ends are compatible for D2D) correct?
------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: November 13, 2014 at 10:51 PM I'm finally understanding the wiring diagram requirements, and when I look at the DBALL2, the connections seem very straight forward, wire to wire or D2D.
Everything should be good to go working with DEI products and DBALL2 flashed with the correct firmware correct? - As well as, the cables are all correct due to the same company producing it? I'm spitting out all the understandings I have, this way you can confirm my knowledge or correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks! ------------- misturnice Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 2:31 PM I just got the remote start in, had a few questions right off the bat, how do I know which direction is a (-) polarity for the parking light jumpers? There's 3 pins, but no way to differentiate which way is (-) or (+). Also, is "Factory Arm Rearm" (Avital 4103) = "Rearm" (DBALL2) I need this connection for my automatic headlights.
------------- misturnice Posted By: kreg357 Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 7:51 PM If you have one of the newer 4103's, it will have only 3 pins for the Parking Light jumper ( the Tach Hi / Lo has been deleted ). As for the automatic headlights, yes use the 4103's Rearm Output exactly as shown in the Type 1 diagram. ------------- Soldering is fun! Posted By: tedmond Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 7:56 PM default parking light comes as positive, if you move the jumper to the left it will be negative. verify with a meter before hookup.
connect the factory arm to the driver door pin for RAP or auto headlight shutdown ------------- Ted 2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries Compustar Expert Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 8:21 PM Didn't realize it was molded into the bottom of the shell, but I found it haha.
One last question, double checking the connections I need to make, what do I do with this connection? Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram 5 (+) Programmable Output for Acc or Ign Red Accessory2 wire *** Program viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 ^ what is programing it to a flex relay, and what do I do exactly? ------------- misturnice Posted By: tedmond Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 8:43 PM you can program it as a secondary acc. Realistically this connection is not required, as it would only power the radio on your vehicle.
------------- Ted 2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries Compustar Expert Posted By: misturnice Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 8:44 PM Great thank you!
Just for personal knowledge, how would you program it as a secondary acc? Is there a procedure to do so? ------------- misturnice Posted By: tedmond Date Posted: January 27, 2015 at 9:06 PM yes there is a procedure which is outlined in the menu. menu 2 feature 6 option 2.
it's just a matter of using the programming button ------------- Ted 2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries Compustar Expert |
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