Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 hummer h3 dei1603 issues

Howdy I posted a while back looking for info but haven't been successful in my search.

I recently bought a 2006 Hummer H3 for my detailing and automotive modification business's company vehicle with the intention of loading it up with accessories.

We do a tone of remote starts but none of my guys have ever done a H3 and we had no idea how wacky the ignition set up was.

We tried 3 different bypass modules and they'd work - for a day or two - then crap out. We went back to old school relays and resistors using DEI1603 - we matched the ohms within .05% (way closer than absolutely necessary) but the VATS light flashes and it won't start with the remote unless the retained accessory power is still on from previously starting it with the key. So I can start it - push the remote start button - and pull the key and it stays running. It just won't cold start.

There are a few variations of 1603 out there - I'm wondering if anyone has had absolute success with a certain one?

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Jermsy

I've done many of these. I have only had an issue like this when using older dball modules. The new ones or the dball2 or xk09 or an idatalink ads al ca or or even a fortin have ALL done well for me.

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Gary Sather

I've done only a few H3's. Always with an ADS DL module flashed with the GM4 firmware in W2W mode. Works like a champ with no "come-backs": Just make sure your bypass module's Chassis Ground connection is 100%.

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Soldering is fun!

Fixed:
DEI 1603 called for the ignition of the car OR the remote start with a diode feeding into the relay. I fed both (instead of either) through the diode into the relay and it has started 30+ times with no issues.

Thanks for the suggestions - I just didn't want to throw another module on there for $$ when I've got plenty of relays and resistors laying around the shop for free.

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Jermsy

kreg357 -
i have seen other posts on this site saying use the ADS AL-CA module or the ADS DL.
im also doing a 06 H3 which is driving me to drink so im curious what the difference between the two is - both are made by Idatalink, yes?

thanks

Yes, both modules are made by iDatalink. The ADS AL-CA is CAN bus capable and slightly more expensive than the ADS DL module.
While either module will work, for vehicles like the Hummer H3, the ADS DL provides all the necessary functions and outputs at a lower
cost.

Your big challenge with using the ADS module is getting one with the correct firmware ( GM4 ). These modules can be flashed with a
wide selection of firmware to support many vehicles and remote starter systems. Professionals can stock a few modules ( ADS TB,
ADS DL and ADS AL-CA ) and select the most appropriate module and load it with the needed firmware at the time of install. To do it
yourself, you will need the ADS USB cable ( ~$35 ) to flash the module and registered dealer access to the Weblink site.

There might be some online sellers that will flash the module at your request prior to shipment.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you very much . very important info to have as i was perusing ebay for these modules....

--much appreciated

You don't see too many ADS DL's online, the ADS AL-CA might be easier to find.

What brand remote starter are you planning to use? If it's a DEI product, the FLCAN module would be the better choice. It's a re-badged ADS AL-CA but comes with the correct D2D harness and the DBI D2D firmware is the native option.

Either way, work with the seller via messages to get the correct module and firmware for your car and chosen RS system.

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Soldering is fun!

the system that I put in is a Stellar RS1050- my goal was trying to find one that piggybacked off of OEM keyless for a start signal so as to avoid multiple remotes. (im a regular auto tech by trade who used to do these 10+ years ago, not an installer but I was doing this for one of my good customers ) and i was considering swapping it out for a different system altogether since this one was giving me stress and the seller already gave me a refund (instead of good tech support) so im torn between trying a bypass with the stellar unit (which i tried to do the double relay and resistor method) or just yanking it and trying a different system....doesnt seem to be too many out there that can be done in "piggyback" fashion....

The Stella RS1050 is an "off-brand" unit, not a normal "major manufacturer" item. That being said, it should work for your purposes with a
few considerations. The system is looking for 3 (-) input triggers as a remote start imitation command, so you would need a relay to
convert the drivers door lock motor signal from (+) to (-). Lock Motor Gray 5 wire @ driver kick, door harness A 10 Amp mini-relay
wired like this would do the trick :
Relay Pin 85 and 87 to Chassis Ground
Relay Pin 86 to Hummer H3 Gray Lock wire
Relay Pin 30 to RS1050 Pink (-) Activation Input

Personally, for the money, I would go with a basic R/S w/keyless system, like the Avital 4103LX. They can be had for under $50. After
9 years, the factory FOB's are probably pretty tired, so new ones that did everything the old ones did, would be welcomed. Plus they
have additional range. The FLCAN module would be good with this system and provide door lock and Factory alarm control. That would
put the price at about $100 for parts and make your life easier. Other decent systems include the Viper 4105V, Compustar CS800-s
and the Prestige APS57E. These systems are around $60.

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Soldering is fun!

well - I didnt tell the whole story to save time. this customer of mine recently got the H3 and had received no FOB's at all. So, me being a former Hummer dealer guy (the only reason i decied to do the RS in the first place)used my resources to research and find out that yes indeed this h3 had keyless and got two new (knock off) factory remotes for him whilst doing said RS....hence my stubborn-ness to let them go and do a whole different system.

In regards to the system I was aware it needs a negative trigger. I grabbed a wire coming out of the BCM and was able to get it to trigger and activate the system. strangely the directions say two pulse of the lock button to activate. and when i do that it sets off the factory horn alarm and still tries to start. So in my experimentation i found that two pulses of lock button followed by one quick unlock got rid of the horn. but the consistent starting is the problem. and i can not find a pattern to what it is doing. sometimes it starts and runs fine. sometimes it starts and stalls. sometimes i let it sit and it works fine one time and then every time after it stalls. the lack of a pattern was making me cuckoo. i found two diagrams for the resistor and relay bypass online (the audiovox one and the directed electronics one) and they were very slightly different but both had the same results no matter which way i wired it. the seller i got it from was going to give me the bypass (to shut me up) and then decided to refund my money and told me i was right and their bypass wouldnt work anyways. so that why I was researching bypasses and also different units today to see which route i wanted to go.....I read so much stuff online saying the bypasses dont work well for this trucks ignition/start system so i was dubious. Fortunately my customer is a very patient man while i research all this....

so im installing an Avital 4105 with a flashlogic FLCAN module pre-programmed for me by the seller. all hooked up and....... nothing...remotes are working , RS indicator light is flashing but no starter activation or even dash power up....looking at all the chart for the FLCAN and i only hooked up the dome light on the dome/door(-) input and without a diode. im thinking i should hookup the door switch too although for the life of me i cant see the difference with one or both on that same wire....why do i need diodes on that (negative signal?) line? and of course the instructions for the RS say to go to the website for more info but im not a seller/installer so i cant access it....

follow up: hooked up both the dome and door (-) input wires on the same wire to the FLCAN module but without the diodes (if the two radio shacks in my area dont have em, who will?) and still no apparent activation....kind of at a loss for why this thin wont power up. I put the FLCAN in data mode and didnt do all the optional hookups to the R/S because of that, but i dont think i have missed anything...obviously i have...be nice if i could actually access the Directech website without being a dealer/installer..... #frustrated

Perhaps if you listed your actual wire connections...

Remember that the Type 3 install diagram does not show the Viper 4105 ignition wire connections to the vehicle. It only shows the needed bypass module connections. You still need to connect the Viper Pink Ignition1 wire and the Orange Accessory wire to the H3. They go to the same place as the FLCAN input connections. Also not shown are the two Red fused Viper power input wires, they, too need to get connected. Actually there are many Viper conations not shown that need to be made, from the Parking Lights to Chasssis ground.

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Soldering is fun!

ok. im sitting in my bed on the laptop so i can partially go from memory and some from what i looked at earlier - this is the diagram for the FLACAN - see "type 3" page 8 on this PDF: https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM4/FLC-AL(DL)-GM4-EN_20150714.pdf
all the stuff in orange it says are NOT required because i am using the datalink line, correct?? in the RS box it says required but below it says not required if using datalink cable. I've done everything else on this sheet as instructed except for the diodes on the two-in -one line going to the dome/door inside the dotted box....lemme see if i can find that crappy diagram from the Avital......

so here are pics of the install info from the Directed/Avital RS unit. (box says 4103 - instructions say 4105) figured it was faster. Anything with a check mark i have hooked up. just going for minimal to get it going before i add any switches or other stuff . this is #1 of 2 pics. It seems like there are several things which go thru the FLCAN bypass so they dont need to be hooked up on the RS which might be where i am getting in trouble. like that white "activation input" - got NO idea where that could go if I even need it.

It looks like you have most of the necessary Viper wires connected. The Lock and Unlock wires are not needed. They are handled
via the D2D connection, like the other dashed orange lines.

I would think that the Viper should at least bring up the ignition power during a remote start attempt. There is no need for Tach Mode
in that vehicle as it has "one-touch" starting. I would set the Viper to fixed crank time ( Engine Checking to OFF ) of 1 second.

There is Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics you can run on the Viper.

Viper is not my normal brand but I remember some issues with them in switching between ESP/BitWriter Mode and DBI D2D Mode.
Not sure if that applies to your unit. Here is the procedure to set the Viper to DBI D2D mode :
Avital / Python BitWriter/ESP to DBI mode port change over.

To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:
1. Remove all power from the Avital R/S brain.
2. Make sure Avital's WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.
3. Power the unit up. The system LED flashes for 5 seconds to confirm D2D mode change.
4. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground. ( Do this cleanly, without pulsing the WHITE/ Blue wire.)

The other issue could be the the FLCAN. It should be flashed to GM4 firmware. Next you must set it to Data Mode and lock that in.
Finally, it must be programmed to the vehicle. The procedure is detailed at the end of the install guide.

The Vipers Activation wire is not used in your application.

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Soldering is fun!

I was wondering if the RS had to be switched to the data mode....but there was NOTHING in the "instructions" about how to do it....I DID switch the FLCAN to data mode as per the instructions. after that I tried to do the programming of the FLCAN with the key on/acc/run/start but never got the light to flash indicating it was programmed. but yet it doesnt flash any other lights when trying to start it either.and yes, supposedly it was programmed prior to delivery with gm firmware. i was suspecting a communication issue with the RS

just got the FULL 52 PAGE installation guide from the seller...maybe i will be in better shape soon ...... :>)

ok. so half my problem is solved. i did not hook up the neutral safety wire (#1 on the 5 pin connector) because i thought that it was for stick shifts only. did a jumper wire to test and lo and behold the whole thing starts working. BUT it only starts and stalls. I dont think the FLCAN is taking the programming that is needed. I did the factory reset, put it into data mode and then tried the programming proceedure and nothing..... the led does not light up at all when its trying to start. i double checked all my connections and i dont see issues. i also could not get the RS into data mode in the way you described. the (larger) install guide for the RS says to unplug all power, then hook up the data cable and reconnect power to go into D2D (short for data 2 data i have been assuming all this time) mode...but there is no led confirmation of this. there shouldnt be any communication issues from the FLCAN to the Avital , should there? are they all made buy the same company? seems like directed and audiovox. they ok to work together?

ok im pretty sure the whole problem lies with the fact that the FLCAN wont go thru its programming to set up its Passlock code . i can reset it and set the mode but when it comes to the programming it does nothing. and after i hooked my S/O scan tool up and watched the PCM VTD inputs while it is trying to start it does a strange thing. it says the key info is ok but that the VTD fuel disable is active which is right around the time the thing stalls. so i think my #1 obstacle is the failure of the FLCAN to program. just thought i would update in case Kreg357 is on tonight (fingers crossed)....

oh and the led on the RS flashes whenever its locked. just a constant never ending flash, no pattern. not sure if thats signifigant

At Step 5, are you holding the key to START for the whole 3 seconds ( actually you should delay 3 seconds at each step )? The truck has built in anti grind, so no worries there. Plus, don't forget to wake up the BCM with the driver door close and open routine.

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Soldering is fun!

Just a few more things to check.

To get the FLCAN to program, the FLCAN Ignition ( Pink ) and Accessory ( BLACK/ White ) Inputs must be connected.

On the FLCAN's connection to the vehicles WHITE/ Blue Passlock2 wire, the FLCAN WHITE/ Black must be on the vehicle side of the cut
Passlock2 wire and the FLCAN WHITE/ Red must be on the connector side ( ignition switch ).

I prefer to go to the firewall connector rather than opening up the steering column. Here are some photo's :

posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

as far as the programming steps its one-one-thousand two-one-thousand three-one-thousand for Each step even when its starting but no indicator light at all on the FLCAN. pretty sure all the connections you mentioned are the same as your second message and in all the same places. gonna slip on the flip flops and go recheck .....

So I just checked it for the same team time and everything is exactly as you say it should be which is how it is in the diagram. (Great pics by the way)The only thing I even give a second thought to as a problem is the WHITE/ black wire that goes to the vehicle side of the pass lock wire that gets cut. There is also a yellow pass lock wire coming out of the FLCAN I actually hooked up the yellow one first before I realized the white and black was supposed to be connected also so I just tapped into the yellow wire which is going up to the passlock lock cut wire switch Side. I can't think that should make a difference should it? I have used butt connectors (without doing the heat shrinks - yet) and scotch locks but I've gone around with the power probe and tested both sides of every connection and everything seems good without any opens....i'm going to find a tall bottle of something strong to have a few short glasses of over ice and hopefully go to sleep and hopefully not dream about this truck tonight

A few thoughts. Passlock2 is resistance based and makes all of the connections a bit more critical. I always solder every connection
and these Passlock2 connections are very important. I would dump the T-Taps, Scotch Loks and crimp / splice connectors if favor
of a quality solder connection. The FLCAN's Passlock2 IPC reference connection is also very important.

If all of the wiring is correct and the FLCAN is getting power through the D2D harness from the Viper and can be Factory Reset and
Mode Selected but won't program... Hate to say it, but are you sure the FLCAN has the GM4 firmware flashed? One of the reasons
most installer's prefer the iDatalink products is their ease of vehicle programming. The only way to know for sure which firmware is
loaded is with the ADS USB cable.

As for module to vehicle programming, here is my routine.
First a Factory Reset. At the end of the reset ( after Step 5 and before Step 6 ), I jump to the Mode Selection procedure because
after Step 5, when the RED LED goes out, it starts doing the single Green LED blink ( for Data Mode ). At this point you can just
press and hold the programming button until the LED goes solid Green for 2 seconds and then Off. Now the module is all ready for
the Type 3 vehicle programming procedure. Just plug in all the harnesses and continue with vehicle programming.

When you say it "Starts and then stalls", is there a Security light on the instrument panel flashing? Passlock2 disables the fuel supply,
so cranking but no start is the symptom. However, the Viper, could be shutting down due to Tach issues, etc. You could try doing the
Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics to see what caused the shutdown.

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Soldering is fun!

ok - many responses and more questions:
I know this harness between the ignition and the large connector (C201i think -- your first pic) is a hot mess due to this being the SECOND install on this vehicle and that harness is fragile to say the least. but i cant find any issues with the connections, at least not enough to prevent interface. when i am plugged in with my scan tool i can see the fuel DISABLE on the pcm data list is showing "active" only when the RS tries to start, so I know its the PCM's VTD kicking in. and obviously its not getting a signal from the FLCAN cause its not programmed. my number one question is this - actually a two parter: if the RS is not in data mode it can still provide power to the FLCAN, right? because obviously its getting power since i can reset it and set the data mode ( I saw one of you other posts on another thread describing how you set the mode after step 5 of the reset so i Was doing it that way) but using your method in the previous post of grounding the white blue wire did not seem to register any effect on the RS so i am wondering if the RS NOT being in data mode would have any effect on the FLCAN not accepting programming? (I have no way to know if it is or not)Nothing in the larger manual for the Avital RS tells me how to put the RS in data mode. the only thing it says it to hook up the D2D cable BEFORE you hookup the main power harness connector --> with the implication that it will recognize it when it powers up (and go into that mode?) Thats the one thing about the FLCAN- the flashlogic directions are great, much better than the RS ones but they dont specify AT WHAT STEP to do that programming so I assume it is with every thing connected. I know it might be a stretch but i am unfamiliar with how the communication factor plays in until the modules are set up and programmed. As far as the programming of the FLCAN, the seller claims (multiple times) that he has programmed it to the vehicle i have.

I apologize for the rambling nature of my post. trying to keep it organized but all these different possibilities arise and one makes me think of another. I still think the main issue is the FLCAN not being programmed. I feel if this can happen the rest will function correctly. the only part of my install i am uncomfortable with is the door/dome connection (without the recommended diodes) and the giant dotted box that says "mandatory connections failure to comply may result in product malfunction" i just dont get how/why it needs TWO negative inputs on that circuit versus just the door input and if my lack of diodes is a factor at all....

Thank you very much for your help.

ok- im waving the white flag on this one. its behaving exactly as the previous RS was and since the FLCAN refuses to program,I have tried redoing any connections involved with the 5 volt reference or passlock signal by soldering but no change in the FLCAN cooperation. i guess i'm up the proverbial creek. customer wants it back says never mind he will live without it. cant say as i blame him I have had it about 10 days over two visits. Cant find anything wrong with the truck except the PCM VTD anomaly but i have no way to pursue that so out it comes.

KREG357 - thank you for your efforts - you are a gentleman and a scholar for sharing so much of your expertise, knowledge and time with me. rest assured I will not be venturing into the RS installation game anytime soon. I will stick with the regular car computer and mechanical issues. they are less likely to drive me to drink.....this was a one shot deal for a good customer of mine i am unlikely to repeat.

one last question: can the FLCAN be reprogrammed with different firmware for a different vehicle? cause i'm pretty sure i'm up the creek for returning it......

I always make all the connections first and then do the bypass module programming. During programming, all the bypass module
really needs is power and the connections to the car. The control signals from the R/S aren't necessary and don't come into play until
later. Not sure exactly where the problem was. It is possible that the FLCAN Yellow wire circuitry is bad although an O.B.F. iDatalink
module is extremely rare. The Colorado / Canyon is one of my favorites, plenty of room and easy access.

You can definitely re-flash the module with another flavor of F/W and use it on another car. I'd be happy to assist you, PM me and we
can make arrangements to ship the FLCAN back & forth with me re-flashing it.

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Soldering is fun!