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1998 Chevrolet Blazer, Viper 4204v Remote Start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137725
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 10:42 AM


Topic: 1998 Chevrolet Blazer, Viper 4204v Remote Start

Posted By: sevilliansts
Subject: 1998 Chevrolet Blazer, Viper 4204v Remote Start
Date Posted: November 17, 2014 at 8:24 PM

I am putting a Viper 4204v remote start on my 98 Chevy Blazer.
I'm kinda confused on the 8 pin H3 (remote start harness).

posted_image

What is the difference between 1,2,5,6   and 3,8

Here's the wiring for my truck:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/435.html

I don't get the Ignition "input/output" vs. +12v fused Ignition 1 "input".

Could someone differentiate these wires for me. I'm aware of what wires are what on my truck, but this install guide is not very detailed.

Thanks.



Replies:

Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 17, 2014 at 8:38 PM
Wires in cavity 2, 5 and 8 are your high current relay power inputs. Connect them to the red and the RED / white wires in the truck's ignition harness. The pink wire in cavity 1 is your ignition output wire (connection to pink wire in ignition harness). The orange wire cavity 3 is for accessory. Connect it to the orange wire in ignition harness. The violet wire in cavity 4 is the starter output.connect to truck's starter wire in ignition harness (usually yellow). The pink/white wires in cavity 6 will be your second ignition output. Connect it to the 2nd ignition wire in the ignition harness (usually white). Verify the ignition harness wires with a meter first. The pink/black wire is not used. Tape it off.

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sparky




Posted By: sevilliansts
Date Posted: November 17, 2014 at 9:02 PM
Thanks sparkie.

So I have (3) high current outputs, but my truck only has (2) constant power wires. RED / white (50A) and red (40A).

Any suggestions for connecting the 3 to the 2 ?




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 17, 2014 at 9:10 PM
Connect the red to red and the RED / white to the RED / white and RED / black.

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sparky




Posted By: sevilliansts
Date Posted: November 17, 2014 at 9:45 PM
posted_image

posted_image

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While I have you here...

Is 9 for hooking up my anti-grind relay ?
11,13,14,15 are just for other options to trigger on ?
12, ???
18, do I need this wire ?
21, activation input ???
22, accessory output ? ( as compared to the 4 aux outputs?)
24, don't think I use this one.




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 18, 2014 at 4:38 PM
Unless your remote has a Function button on it, all the other Aux functions likely won't work. You can use the status output to trigger an anti-grind relay if you wish, as long as you aren't using it to activate a bypass module for the Passlock system in the truck. If your truck has a factory alarm, you will need to use the rearm and disarm wires (pins 24 and 4). The only wires you really need are the hood pin input #17, the brake #16 and if it is an automatic ground pin #2. Pin #5 can be used to trigger the rear glass release if there is a switch on the dash. There are negative outputs for all power modes (accessory, ignition, start and flex relay) you don't need them in your vehicle.

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sparky




Posted By: sevilliansts
Date Posted: November 18, 2014 at 7:33 PM
posted_image

H1 harness has a light flash isolation wire. Assuming I don't use that one.
I then have the PIN 30 of light flash relay; I believe this goes to the parking lights.

Why do I have two wires labeled for the parking lights, one is + and one - ?


I do have a function button on the remote.
I'm probably 3/4 of the way done wiring, just getting these last few wires.

Thanks again for all your help.




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 18, 2014 at 9:35 PM
The white wire is the parking light output. You should have a fuse inside the module to select lamp output polarity. The WHITE/ brown is used for some types of parking lamp circuits, but not yours. The aux outputs can be used to activate other circuits if desired.

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sparky




Posted By: sevilliansts
Date Posted: November 19, 2014 at 6:40 AM
Got it working last night. Thanks so much for your assistance sparkie.

Now I just need to get it all cleaned up and nicely secured.
I also have the DEI 451m relay to hookup the door lock/unlock. Think I have that all figured out though.

Thanks again.




Posted By: sevilliansts
Date Posted: November 21, 2014 at 1:38 PM
All done. posted_image

Rear defroster working and door locks + rear hatch.

1 Question, the OEM has the one push unlocks the driver door while 2 pushes unlocks all doors.
I wired the lock wires to the "Power Lock" wires. So they all lock / unlock simultaneously. (see chart above).
What are the door "triggers" used for ? I see the driver has a separate trigger. Do these also control the locks.




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: November 21, 2014 at 6:01 PM
Door pin inputs are for manual transmission remote starters. The system needs to see the doors open and close for ready mode activation and deactivation. You could do a driver door priority unlock using the aux outputs and a relay, but I find most people like all doors unlocking with only one press of the remote.

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sparky





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