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can’t enter ready mode

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137763
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 1:56 PM


Topic: can’t enter ready mode

Posted By: driberif19
Subject: can’t enter ready mode
Date Posted: November 22, 2014 at 6:11 PM

I have an Autostart model AS-2372TWU that I've had installed on my 86 Chevy K10 with a manual transmission for about 2 years now. I recently had a battery drain issue that I finally traced to my radio. Now, I can't get my truck into ready mode. Remember I've been doing using this successfully for a while now. Hold brake and put in neutral. Set parking brake. Release brake. Push lock, unlock, or start button (I've always hit lock). Lights flash 3 times and then stay on. Turn off truck to take out key, and the truck stops running. About 3 seconds later, the parking lights shut off. Instead of the engine quitting, the truck should have stayed running until I exit the vehicle and hit the lock button. I've reset the module, programmed my remote, programmed the tach, and went through every programming menu to make sure I had is set correctly. Any suggestions?
Also noticed that when I hit the remote start button, I don't get any parking light flashes for diagnosing like it should.
Thank you in advance.



Replies:

Posted By: shark mobile
Date Posted: November 23, 2014 at 8:23 PM
I would normally do a hard reset...(flash the hood switch and pump the brake six or so times until the relays click in the brain.). However you say you did this and it is being unresponsive. So that leaves checking the fuses...both 12 volt connections for this brand is fused with 30 amp fuses, meter them and inspect the holders for melting. (Yes melted fuse holders is very common on trucks.). While you're there check to make sure all connections are secure...in fact unplug the brain...by first unplugging the largest harness first followed by the secondary harness.   Then plug them back in starting with the secondary harness ( has the black wire which is ground). Your park lights should flash. If they don't flash could be the brain is dead. I'm curious how you did your reset...and for the five minutes it takes I would do it again...re-set - program remote - program tach...and finally program features....mode 1 through 4. Hope this helps...any questions please ask....

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Solder, tape, repeat!




Posted By: driberif19
Date Posted: November 23, 2014 at 10:03 PM
Thank you for responding. First, I don't know if I mentioned it, but everything is working fine with the remote start except for the starting. I'm sure that is just because I can't get into ready mode. The lock, unlock, panic, trunk, start, and aux buttons all work fine. I have done a hard reset by the manual. Enter programming mode and pump brake till the lights flash so many times. Manual is in the truck at the moment, so I don't remember the exact procedure. As far as the fuses, I never pulled them out of the holders. I ohm checked them at the top of the fuses, and they checked fine. Also, today I checked voltage/continuity of each wire at the plugs while they were still plugged in. Everything checks fine. I've done the hard reset twice that I can think of. Once was today. I've programmed the tach multiple times. After doing the reset this time, I added in the 2 way remote that hadn't been working for the last year, and it is working now. Trying to remote start with the 2 way (after a failed ready mode process) gave me a code (through flashing of the buttons) that it was not in ready mode. Pretty obvious, but at least it's something. I'm going to go to the local Autostart installer tomorrow hopefully and see if I can pick their brains. I don't know if they have diagnostics they can hook up to see exactly what is going wrong or not. I've gone over my wiring multiple times, and am beginning to think I have a bad module. Might have had something to do with my radio going bad I guess. They were both getting power from the same "leg" of the fuse box.




Posted By: shark mobile
Date Posted: November 23, 2014 at 10:59 PM
Silly question but did you check to see if you're in valet mode? Also just so you're aware there is no diagnostic tool for the module...so if they say they will hook it up they're just taking your money.   Also the wiring is identical to all the new systems so a replacement unit is literally plug program and play...hope you make out ok.

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Solder, tape, repeat!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 24, 2014 at 12:44 AM
Parking brake switch connected and working properly?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: driberif19
Date Posted: November 24, 2014 at 6:47 AM
For valet mode, yes I checked. Put it in and out of it just to check. The e-brake was my first guess on the problem. I've tried to bypass the switch on the pedal and just go directly to ground to make sure.
On tools, I thought there was a programmer you could hook up instead of going through the menus with the remote. Figured that might do some diagnostics too. Maybe not. As far as plug and play, I wasn't sure about going Autostart again if that's my problem. Was thinking of Compustar.




Posted By: driberif19
Date Posted: November 25, 2014 at 3:32 PM
Well, I figured it out. When I was searching for my draw, I screwed up and connected the 12v ignition wire to the "ignition on" circuit instead of the "ignition" circuit. Thank you for your responses. Wish everything was that easy of a fix.





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