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no output on igntion 1 h3/1

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137921
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 10:51 AM


Topic: no output on igntion 1 h3/1

Posted By: jelling6
Subject: no output on igntion 1 h3/1
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 7:19 AM

Hello,

I have a Python 5706P remote start installation that is kicking my butt. Installed with a DBALL in an 09 Corolla. Ignition 1 Pink wire H3/1 does not go to +12 during remote start.   Car will not start as a result. With Pink jumped to 12 volts during start system works fine. Red, red black and red white are all wired to +12 constant and verified at remote start module.

Sent brain box in once thinking that there was a problem with internal relay. Replacement module does the the same thing.   Is there any programming features that would affect H3/1? Any jumpers or wires need to be changed to allow H3/1 to operate correctly? Or is this a bad module?

My understanding is H3/1 should go to +12 volts when attempting remote start.

Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 10:10 AM
I just looked at at a 5706 Install Guide.

It shows the pink IGN1 as H3/10.   Not H3/1. In the install guide diagram., H3/1 is empty.
H3/2 is a RED / blk, so the RED / blk should be next to an empty cavity.
H3/9 is a RED / wht, so the RED / wht should be next to a pink.

Perhaps you got a mis-pinned harness connector?





Posted By: jelling6
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 12:03 PM
My guide is showing H3/1 Pink   (+) Ignition 1 Input/output;
H3/10 NC   no connection.

Anyway all measurement have been on the pink wire exiting the 10 pin heavy Gage connector.

On the outside chance that harness was wrong I did Probe the open pin that should be H3/10 and found that was 0 volts during remote start.





Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 5:22 PM
Ambiguity and confusion from DEI Installation materials??? Whoda' thunk?

It was worth a try.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 6:22 PM
Think they now call it pin 6 but WTH, I never read their instructions, long history of typos.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: jelling6
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 7:07 PM
Have not figured it out. Still not output on Pink ignition 1.

Diode isolated Ignition 2 to ignition 1 and ignition 2 and system works fine. But is not working as it should.

please reply if anyone has any ideas.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 10, 2014 at 7:12 PM
Relay out from H2 pink NEG ignition output, that's a work round.
Do not diode out from ignition 2 to ignition 1, Toyota keeps those leads separate for good reason.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: jelling6
Date Posted: December 11, 2014 at 7:31 AM
I agree relay would be a better work around than diode Isolation. Diodes were a quick fix to get it going for now.   I have installed 2 other DEI systems with the Responder LC3 brain box and have had no trouble with Ignition 1 output.   I cant believe I would get 2 bad modules. Seems like I must be missing something simple. Items that could affect ignition 1 output:

1. Safety interlock - I think these affect only start output.
2. Feature option - Does not make sense to affect Ignition 1 output.
3. Jumper or Fuse - Cant find anything that would affect Ignition 1.
4. Bad module - 2 for 2 - Really?

Unless anyone can think of one of these reasons would cause this issue or any others I plan to add relay.

Its Fairly nice in Minnesota this week. I am sure we will be in for some cold weather soon so I need to get this working right.







Posted By: mduong25
Date Posted: December 19, 2014 at 2:53 PM
I just installed a viiper 4706v and it appears i had the same problem with the brain. There was no +12V coming from the pink wire during remote start. Dash lights would like up, but it would not crank. Did you get the same problem? I had to send my unit back and I am still waitng for them to test the thing for warranty issues.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 19, 2014 at 4:59 PM
Have you powered up H3 red, RED / white and RED / black to a constant 12V+ source?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: December 19, 2014 at 6:58 PM
howie ll wrote:

Have you powered up H3 red, RED / white and RED / black to a constant 12V+ source?


Piggybacking!

This was going to be my next guess.

All 3 of those source wires have fused 30A fuses. I've seen some harnesses where the fuses don't make good contact with the terminals inside the fuse holders.

If you're using pink/white, make sure the feature 3.8 is set to "Ignition 2" not "Accessory" or "Starter"

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)





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