remote start 2002 pontiac grand prix

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138024
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 2:23 AM

Topic: remote start 2002 pontiac grand prix

Posted By: geeteezee
Subject: remote start 2002 pontiac grand prix
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 5:10 PM

Greetings. I was last here ~12 years ago when installing a remote starter into a 98 Grand Prix. This shouldn't be much different however I'm here to cross T's and dot I's as it were.

I'm installing a Prostart (Autostart) along with a PKALL for Passkey III.
https://www.prostartsystems.com/Products/RemoteStart/CT-3471TW.aspx
https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

Questions:
There is a factory disarm wire (Or/Blk, Drivers Kick) but no re-arm. Will the power lock catch the alarm? (I suppose I can test this with the door lock button and an open window to open the door without unlocking) Anyway, if it does arm the alarm, should I connect both the lock and re-arm from the r/s to the power door lock on the car? If so I assume they should be diode isolated?
Or, should I not bother with the re-arm from the r/s if indeed the lock pulse arms the alarm?

Stupid question: Why should I connect the remote starter to the door pin triggers? There are 2 connections for NEG DOOR INPUT and POS DOOR INPUT. This isn't an alarm/starter combo unit. Maybe I'm missing something here. Dome light while running?

And lastly, most schematics list my car's trunk release as +, (This one doesn't and appears to be a Chev schematic, it also lists a non existent 'arm' connection) in which case I'll need a relay to convert (-) from the r/s to (+) output. The upper diagram here is the correct method?

Cheers and thanks for any help! posted_image

Replies:

Posted By: shark mobile
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 11:18 PM

As for the disarm hook it up...its not a big deal and it prevents annoying horn honks and gm shut down in the future. Also, the rearm is not necessary an coincidently isn't an option.

Door trigger is used for a few things...manual transmission installs, alarms combos, and rap-shut down (Radio, cluster stays active after remote shutdown.) None of which apply here I do believe.

The trunk release is exactly as your diagram depicts Compliments of the12volt guys...have fun.

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Solder, tape, repeat!

Posted By: geeteezee
Date Posted: December 22, 2014 at 11:32 PM

Thanks for the info! I'll test that the power door lock arms the factory theft tomorrow. I think I read somewhere that it does but that it doesn't kick in right away.

Posted By: geeteezee
Date Posted: December 23, 2014 at 12:28 AM

Another stupid question:
From the remote start schematic,
3. YELLOW/WHITE..................(-) Parking lights output
however, wiring for the car states,
PARKING LIGHTS (+) brown at switch.
Do I need a relay here? Negative Input/Positive Output?

Posted By: geeteezee
Date Posted: December 23, 2014 at 12:35 AM

geeteezee wrote:

Another stupid question:
From the remote start schematic,
3. YELLOW/WHITE..................(-) Parking lights output
however, wiring for the car states,
PARKING LIGHTS (+) brown at switch.
Do I need a relay here? Negative Input/Positive Output?

Disregard, there's wires for both (-) and (+) parking lights.
I'm tired...