Print Page | Close Window

viper 5706v and idatalink connections

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138075
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 2:41 PM


Topic: viper 5706v and idatalink connections

Posted By: daytontd
Subject: viper 5706v and idatalink connections
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:06 PM

This is for a 2004 Silverado

I am confused about the Ignition (+) Input on the idatalink sheet. This is the only last connection it says I have to make from the remote starter to the idatalink.

My problem is that all I have on the 24 pin connection that is close on the Viper 5706 is the(17)PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT. The idatalink however calls for a (+) IGNITION 1 OUTPUT (Remote starter side) to a (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT (Idatalink side).

Can I connect a - (from the viper) to a + on the module? If not what do I do? Convert it somehow with a relay although this seems like it would be too much current for the module. Or just leave disconnected since I am still wiring the the viper direct to the truck.



Replies:

Posted By: vane0804
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:13 PM
Which IDatalink are you using? what version? firmware? wiring schematic?

-------------
~It's me!




Posted By: vane0804
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:20 PM
Looking closer at your explanation...forget that (-) ignition output from your viper remote start...use the heavy guage Pink (+) Ignition output from Viper remote starter to (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT (Idatalink side).

-------------
~It's me!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:20 PM
Sorry it is an ADS-AL CA. I bought it together with the Viper alarm from a car electronics place, they said they flashed the idatalink with the necessary information.

Here is the viper:

Viper Install

idatalink

Go to page 7 of 9




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:22 PM
vane0804 wrote:

Looking closer at your explanation...forget that (-) ignition output from your viper remote start...use the heavy guage Pink (+) Ignition output from Viper remote starter to (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT (Idatalink side).


I was looking at this but worried that it will fry the module since that wire is pretty thick.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:28 PM

You will connect the Viper H3 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Output wire to both the Silverado ( Pink @ main ignition harness ) and the iDatalink Pink (+) Ignition Input wire.  Like this W2W mode connection below ( Ultra Start U1272 R/S ) :

posted_image



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: vane0804
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:29 PM
no...you won't fry the module..that's where it goes..bypass moduel always has smaller guage wires.

-------------
~It's me!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:33 PM
Okay awesome thanks. Since I am use the DTD connection all I should connect on the idatalink is the pink wire (ignition), orange (data), and purple (tach) correct?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:42 PM

Well...

If you are running in D2D mode between the ADS AL-CA and the Viper 5706v, you must flash the bypass module with the DBI AL(DL)-GM1 flavor of firmware and follow this install guide  :  https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM1/DBI-AL(DL)-GM1_20111004.pdf

There are only two wires from the ADS AL-CA that will be hardwired, the Pink and the Orange.  Everything else should be handled by the D2D harness.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 6:56 PM
Kreg at it again with spot on answers. No wonder he's platinum, and I'm only gold ;)

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 7:01 PM
Okay thanks again. I am going to assume they flashed it with that firmware although they didn't say. I can always hardwire it after if I have to.

One last thing, on the Viper 5706v I do not have an Accessory 2. The Tahoe I seen in your thread has an Accessory wire 1 and 2. Can I just attach the Accessory from the Viper to one of the accessory wires on my truck and call it a day? Or do I need a relay so it does both accessory wires on the truck or can I use pin 3 on the 10-pin heavy gauge connector of my viper labelled "3 Pink/Black (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY" and reprogram it after to act as an accessory 2?




Posted By: vane0804
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 7:18 PM
I've always connected both accessory wires when called upon...relay will be needed to isolate circuit.

-------------
~It's me!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 8:17 PM
Sorry its been awhile since I worked with relays. Is this correct?

86 - Ground
85 - T'd into Accesory wire 1
30 - Continuous power
87 - Accessory 2
87A - Nothing




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 8:32 PM

With your Viper system, I'd do it like this :
Relay Pin 85 to Viper Orange (-) 200mA Accessory wire ( H2/23 )
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Silverado Brown ACC2 wire
Relay Pin 87a not used

Your relay wiring would turn on the relay with a regular key start and keep it on the whole time the truck was running.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 8:34 PM
Yes that makes more sense, thanks a lot guys you've been a ton of help!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 10:27 PM
One more question guys; I plan to use the PIN 16 BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT on the Viper side of the 24 pin connecter in addition to the siren. However, for my truck I assume I need a relay, is this correct, or do I need a ground instead of power?

Relay Pin 85 to BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Horn (-) Black BCM Grey Plug
Relay Pin 87a not used




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 10:52 PM

The truck's horn wire needs a (-) signal.  You can directly connect the Viper (-) Horn Output to the Horn (-) Black wire @ the BCM Grey Plug.  If you wanted to use a relay the wiring would go like this :

Relay Pin 85 to BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
Relay Pin 86 to +12V through 1 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 87 to Chassis Ground
Relay Pin 30 to Horn (-) Black BCM Grey Plug
Relay Pin 87a not used



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 28, 2014 at 11:00 PM
I'll do it direct, sounds much easier thanks again!




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 31, 2014 at 3:41 PM
Okay now I got another issue, everything is hooked up, disarm and arm seems to work okay. I go to remote start and it cranks and just before it fires up it dies. It repeats this process 3 times until it quits attempting. I have been playing with the bypass module and it seems this may be the issue, I reset it to factory, went back to visions and made sure that the correct firmware kreg stated on page 1 was on there which it was. He re-flashed it anyways. Now I reset it using factory procedure, then re-programmed it by unplugging the connectors and holding the button while plugging in the data connecter. It flashs red then goes out. Put the other connnecters in, then attempt to program it to the truck next. I turn the key ahead and it stays a solid red. No matter what I do it always does this. The only time it changes is when I physically start the vehicle it begins to flash red and green until I do a factory reset procedure again. Any ideas?




Posted By: daytontd
Date Posted: December 31, 2014 at 4:35 PM
Okay nevermind guys I got it going. Even though it was flashing green and red on the idatalink, I still tried to reprogram some settings on the viper using that button on the windsheild and the remote. I changed the tach settings to tachometer since I ran into to the instrument cluster. Then I changed it to automatic instead of manual (I remember doing this before anyways). And lastly I increased the cranking time to 1.0 seconds. For some reason when I did that, the remote start worked and the bypass module automatically started working with just a flashing green light during remote start. Kind of weird since I didnt have to reprogram the module again or anything.





Print Page | Close Window