aps620 on 2001 cherokee

Hello, this is my first remote install attempt.

I would like to start with a check up on my wiring matches. Jeep wiring from https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

Harness C - Remote Start
Starter Output (+) =Yellow= to Jeep ignition harness YELLOW
Battery + Feed for Yellow and Green =Red= to Jeep ignition harness RED
Accessory Output (+) =Purple= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ WHITE
Ignition 2 Output (+) =Green= to Jeep ignition harness BLUE
Battery + Feed for Purple & Blue =RED / White= to Jeep ignit harness RED
Ignition 1 Output (+) =Blue= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ ORANGE

Harness B - Door Locks
(-) Lock (250 mA max) =Red= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel ORANGE / PURPLE
(-) Unlock (250mA max) =Green= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel PINK/PURPLE

Harness A - Pulse
(-) Pulse Before Start =BLACK/ Blue= N/A ?
(-) Pulse After Start =BLACK/ Green= N/A ?
(-) Pulse After Shut Down =BLACK/ Red= N/A ?
(-) Pulse During Crank =BLACK / YELLOW= N/A ?

Harness D to Valet switch
to supplied switch harness

Harness E - Misc
(+) Shut Down Brake Input =BROWN / Black= to Jeep Brake Switch WHITE/ TAN
(-) Shut Down Hood Input =Gray/Black= to pin switch under hood
Tach Input =GREEN/ Orange= to Jeep PCM (forward-most connector)GRAY
(-) 3rd Channel Output =Blue= N/A ?
(-) Horn Output =BLACK/ White= to Jeep steering column BLACK/ RED
(-) GND While Running Output =Light Blue= N/A ?
(-) Dome Light Output =GREEN/ YELLOW= N/A ?

Harness F - RF
to supplied RF antennae

Harness G - LED
to supplied LED

Harness H - Park Lights
Park Light Output =White= to Jeep Light switch BLACK / YELLOW ?
Park Light Input (15A Max) =WHITE/ Red= to Jeep ?
Ground =Black= to Jeep Ground


Main areas of concern at this time are:
the N/A ? areas
the Park Light output
Lock/Unlock 250mA max - how to know if I need relays?

APS 620 manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12480/Audiovox-Aps-620.html

Install help https://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8724/~/operating-instructions-for-aps620-remote-start-system

Assuming you have the black key and no factory security you won't need 4 pin pulse harness . You are connecting positive parking lights so your input WHITE/ red wire of rs brain will go to constant 12 fused and your white output wire will go to black / YELLOW at headlight switch . Your other na wires are not necessary . As for door locks test wires with multi meter . There should be enough to output off of door lock wires but if not use relays . Just to increase neg signal output

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bat9905

Thanks bat, I've updated to look like this in the event it helps somebody else.

Harness A - Pulse
(-) Pulse Before Start =BLACK/ Blue= N/A
(-) Pulse After Start =BLACK/ Green= N/A
(-) Pulse After Shut Down =BLACK/ Red= N/A
(-) Pulse During Crank =BLACK / YELLOW= N/A

Harness B - Door Locks
(-) Lock (250 mA max) =Red= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel ORANGE / PURPLE
(-) Unlock (250mA max) =Green= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel PINK/PURPLE

Harness C - Remote Start
Starter Output (+) =Yellow= to Jeep ignition harness YELLOW
Battery + Feed for Yellow and Green =Red= to Jeep ignition harness RED
Accessory Output (+) =Purple= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ WHITE
Ignition 2 Output (+) =Green= to Jeep ignition harness BLUE
Battery + Feed for Purple & Blue =RED / White= to Jeep ignit harness RED
Ignition 1 Output (+) =Blue= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ ORANGE

Harness D to Valet switch
to supplied switch harness

Harness E - Misc
(+) Shut Down Brake Input =BROWN / Black= to Jeep Brake Switch WHITE/ TAN
(-) Shut Down Hood Input =Gray/Black= to pin switch under hood
Tach Input =GREEN/ Orange= to Jeep PCM (forward-most connector)GRAY
(-) 3rd Channel Output =Blue= N/A
(-) Horn Output =BLACK/ White= to Jeep steering column BLACK/ RED
(-) GND While Running Output =Light Blue= N/A
(-) Dome Light Output =GREEN/ YELLOW= N/A

Harness F - RF
to supplied RF antennae

Harness G - LED
to supplied LED

Harness H - Park Lights
Park Light Output =White= to Jeep ignition switch harness PINK/BLACK
Park Light Input(15A Max) =WHITE/ Red= to Jeep Light sw BLACK / YELLOW
Ground =Black= to Jeep Ground

Is using the ignition harness OK for the constant 12v+ or do I want to find something in the headlight switch harness if possible?

I've installed many of those units. They're not made anymore, but they worked well enough. Good price too.

Your wiring in your last post pretty much looks all good. Only thing I see wrong is that the WHITE/ red with the fuse should be to constant power, and the white should be to the car's parking light circuit.

If you did it the way you have written, it will work just fine. However, the white wire would be connected directly to the car's high-power-constant circuit with no fuse.

So, if the white wire in that scenario rubbed through to ground, it would either (A) blow the car's factory fuse leaving the car stranded, or (B) if the factory fuse is very big, it wouldn't blow, and the white wire would melt and catch fire.

Hopefully that made sense.....the fuse isn't there to protect the car's light bulbs so much as it's there to protect the WHITE/ red wire itself.

Couple other thoughts:

---The LED is only useful for programming. It doesn't flash with the car locked or anything like that. So I wouldn't drill it in.....just zip-tie it with the valet button in the fuse box or under the dash somewhere.

---The horn honks loudly during programming, and the programming is confusing so you might not get it right on the first try. Consider connecting the horn AFTER programming everything else and making sure it works, or if you're working at home, you might have to drive to some desolate area to play with your programming.

---The doorlock outputs should be strong enough to work the car just fine without relays. I recommend connecting them directly to the car and trying them just once. If they work, all good. If they don't work, troubleshoot what's wrong before playing with the remotes too much. That way, you won't risk burning out the lock/unlock outputs from the remote starter.

Thanks for straightening me out on the parking light wiring. I originally misread bat's post. The light I already have installed. I have the horn wired already - maybe I'll stuff a bit of an old shirt to muffle during programming :)

I've had this sitting around for a couple years - hopefully it works!

Harness A - Pulse
(-) Pulse Before Start =BLACK/ Blue= N/A
(-) Pulse After Start =BLACK/ Green= N/A
(-) Pulse After Shut Down =BLACK/ Red= N/A
(-) Pulse During Crank =BLACK / YELLOW= N/A

Harness B - Door Locks
(-) Lock (250 mA max) =Red= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel ORANGE / PURPLE
(-) Unlock (250mA max) =Green= to Jeep Driver's Kick Panel PINK/PURPLE

Harness C - Remote Start
Starter Output (+) =Yellow= to Jeep ignition harness YELLOW
Battery + Feed for Yellow and Green =Red= to Jeep ignition harness RED
Accessory Output (+) =Purple= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ WHITE
Ignition 2 Output (+) =Green= to Jeep ignition harness BLUE
Battery + Feed for Purple & Blue =RED / White= to Jeep ignit harness RED
Ignition 1 Output (+) =Blue= to Jeep ignition harness BLACK/ ORANGE

Harness D to Valet switch
to supplied switch harness

Harness E - Misc
(+) Shut Down Brake Input =BROWN / Black= to Jeep Brake Switch WHITE/ TAN
(-) Shut Down Hood Input =Gray/Black= to pin switch under hood
Tach Input =GREEN/ Orange= to Jeep PCM (forward-most connector)GRAY
(-) 3rd Channel Output =Blue= N/A
(-) Horn Output =BLACK/ White= to Jeep steering column BLACK/ RED
(-) GND While Running Output =Light Blue= N/A
(-) Dome Light Output =GREEN/ YELLOW= N/A

Harness F - RF
to supplied RF antennae

Harness G - LED
to supplied LED

Harness H - Park Lights
Park Light Output =White= to Jeep Light Sw BLACK / YELLOW
Park Light Input(15A Max) =WHITE/ Red= to Jeep ignition sw harness PINK/BLACK
Ground =Black= to Jeep Ground

That all looks right to me.

Don't forget, I'm pretty sure your car has only one ignition wire, and two accessory wires that both drop power during crank.

If the green Ignition 2 wire is connected to something in the car that drops during crank, you'll want to go into the remote starter's programming menu and set it for "As Accessory." That way, it'll drop out during crank just like the key does.

If you failed to make the programming change, on a car as electrically simple as yours, it would still all work fine anyway, though.

Between travel for work, the flu and not wanting to work out in the cold, I have been a while getting this finished. All connections made and door locks work great.

Vehicle will not start though and it is due to the tach not being learned. How long does that usually take? I've gone through the procedure and waited several minutes and assumed it wasn't going to work.

Anybody with experience with either the APS-620 or the 2000-2001 Cherokee would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

If the tach wire is correct, the 620 should start flashing the parking lights right away at startup, like maybe 1 second delay at the most.

So, either you're on the wrong tach wire, or could possibly be doing the programming incorrectly...

Programming:
1. Ignition on
2. Press/release valet 3 times
3. Ignition off
4. HOLD valet
5. Start engine and leave running. Parking lights should flash. You should hear the parking light relay in the brain clicking.
6. Release valet.
7. Shut off engine.

Also, how well does your car run? Is it all tuned up and everything? If I were doing an older car like yours for a customer, I'd be inclined to connect tachometer, because I wouldn't want to have to go back to the car later.

On the other hand, if it's your personal car and "going back to it" just means walking out to your driveway with your tool set, why not try voltage sensing? You have nothing to lose.

Change feature 4 to Voltage, and change feature 5 to the "less than 0.5 volt" setting. Leave the crank time at 1.0 seconds.

My guess is 80% chance it's going to work 100% of the time. And only takes 30 seconds' programming and a couple days' living with the car to try it out.

Programming:
1. Ignition on
2. Press/release valet 3 times
3. Ignition off
4. HOLD valet
5. Start engine and leave running. Parking lights should flash. You should hear the parking light relay in the brain clicking.

This is where it breaks down. I get no flashing anything when I do this. I've got a feeling I've either got a bad connection or am connected to wrong spot.

when using "tach" I get the 7 flashes indicating non-learned tach response when attempting to start. When using "voltage" I get no response whatsoever.

Diagnostics also point to no tach signal being detected. I've read elsewhere that I could try the negative of an injector as well for tach signal.

OK so it ends up that the PCM connector with the black base, the one closest to the radiator, has two grey wires. One is pin 12 the other pin 7. You want to connect to pin 7, I was on pin 12

So changed back from Voltage to tach and was able have the parking lights blink and the learn procedure work.

The bad news is when I tell it to start I still get nothing, no parking lights blinking, no starter.

problem was hood pin switch not fully depressed - all better now

THANKS!!!

hope the 2 grey wire discovery helps somebody, you want pin7 :)