viper 5902 / 2002 lexus is300

Hello all, like many others on this forum I come to you for confirmation and clarification on the installation of the Viper 5902 in my STANDARD transmission 2002 Lexus IS300. I've spent many hours staring at diagrams and have come up with the following. Please, any help is appreciated, everything from "yes, you got the idea" to "dude, what the hell are you talking about?" lol. I will still test all wires for my own confirmation as suggested. Here are my findings:

Car: 2002 5speed Lexus IS300
Unit: Viper 5902
Goals: Use all available features in the unit(alarm, lock/unlock, RS, trunk release are the main concerns) *will not be using any extra modules

Car diagram:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=3957
https://www.S P A M.com/car-alarm-and-remote-car-starter-wiring-diagram-2002-lexus-is300/

Viper 5902 quick reference guide: https://www.S P A M/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=60499&d=1258614704

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H1/1- blue/white (trunk release; requires 5wi wiring w/ relay)
H1/2- to H3/9 (12volt constant; direct connection)
H1/3- red of new siren (siren; direct connection)
H1/4- N/A
H1/5- Ground
H1/6- N/A
H1/7- RED / yellow (trunk trigger; direct connection)
H1/8- Driver:RED / green Passenger:RED / black Rears:RED / blue {upon   further research it was found that rear is NOT RED / white} (door triggers; will require 3 separate diode isolation for direct connection)
H1/9- N/A
H1/10- N/A
H1/11- green + (parking light; direct connection, will adjust parking light fuse in unit accordingly)
H1/12- not 100% sure but believe this will go to bypass module. Is GWA {armed} the same as GWR{running}?
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H2/1- N/A
H2/2- N/A
H2/3- N/A
H2/4- N/A
H2/5- N/A
H2/6- N/A
H2/7- N/A
H2/8- N/A
H2/9- black (tach; direct connection)
H2/10- not 100% sure but believe this will power the bypass
H2/11- N/A
H2/12- N/A
H2/13- N/A
H2/14- N/A
H2/15- blue (existing hood pin; direct connection)
H2/16- N/A
H2/17- GREEN / WHITE (brake; direct connection)
H2/18- yellow/red (NSS using e-brake; direct connection)
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H3/1- BLACK/ red (ign1; direct connection)
H3/2- white or WHITE/ red (input for h3/7; direct connection)
H3/3- red (acc; direct connection)
H3/4- BLACK/ white (starter ouput, starter side; direct connection)
H3/5- BLACK/ white (starter input, key side; direct connection)
H3/6- white or WHITE/ red (polarity feed for ign1 relay; direct connection)
H3/7- blue/red (ign2; direct connection)
H3/8- N/A
H3/9- white or WHITE/ red (polarity feed for acc & starter relays; direct connection)
H3/10- no connection
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Door lock 3-pin connector
blue--GREEN/ black (-unlock)
green--GREEN/ red (-lock)
(will use blue/black for lock detention; requires diode isolation & relay for this referring to tech tip from DEI)

Thanks in advanced for taking your time to read this. PLEASE let me know if there are any wires that I need to use that are listed as N/A, or if I'm missing diodes or relays somewhere in my wiring scheme. This took longer than I thought to write up but making sure I have confirmation from the veteran installers here will put my mind to ease when I start the tear down and integration. Thanks again.

sorry for the "spam" links, didnt realize I couldnt link to other sites. here is a link for the quick reference guide right here from 12volt. (few posts down)

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130246&tpn=4

So I decided to take the install in steps. I recently installed only the security portion of the alarm and besides a little hiccup in crossed wires for the door lock/unlock everything hooked up perfectly. I have a new found respect for installers because even though I knew where the wires were, getting to them was another level. I'll post back when I recieve my bypass for the RS.

Quick question though, when I arm/lock the car with the viper then try to unlock/disarm my car using my OEM key fob the viper alarm full triggers. Is that normal? Thanks.

I'm going to start calling this a "blog" because I've had almost 350 views but no replies lol. It's ok, as long as someone who is searching finds this thread useful than I've done my job to help.

I've noticed that my LED light stays on while I'm driving. After some research I believe that my problem is that since I only installed the alarm portion, the brain needs to sense the ignition to turn on to reset any last triggers, thus turning off the LED which is still communicating about the previous trigger. That being said I think I need to connect the RS harness H3/1 up to do this. I'll post my findings tomorrow.

Sorry no one has added any input to your post.  For me, I am not a big Viper user and severely limit my R/S installs on
manual transmission vehicles.  That being said, here is my two cents for your BLOG.

You are doing well so far.   While you didn't specify a bypass module, I'll guess that you will go for a PKALL.  You will use the
Viper H2/10 Dark Blue (-) Status Output as the PKALL's Blue/White (-) GWR Input.  The Vipers H1/12 will not be used.

For the door locks, follow the DEI Tech Tip 1070 or this from Audiovox : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=661

Your big issue will be the manual transmission.  A couple of tid-bits.  The Viper must be set to Engine Checking = Tach, the
Tach Learn successfully run, the H2/18 BLACK/ While Neutral Safety wire connected to the E-Brake, the Door, Trunk and Hood
triggers all connected and working, and the clutch interlock switch properly bypassed.  You will run in Manual Transmission
Mode and must set Reservation Mode to allow a remote start.

A properly bypassed clutch interlock will function normally during a regular key start and only be bypassed by the Viper
system during a remote start.   I have no info on the clutch interlock switch.  Hopefully someone can chime in with that info
for you.  If not, you will have to use a DMM and determine the system in use and the correct way to bypass it.  Here is a link
that will help explain it  :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1074

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply kreg. Don't be sorry I know people are busy and any help is appreciated. I actually still learned quite a bit from this forum and from a lot of the questions that you've answered for others as well. Thank you so much for the clutch bypass info and explaining about the proper way for a manual install. This and the bypass are my biggest hurdle I believe. I've read so much about others who just simply bypass the clutch and set the RS to auto trans which I know is a big no no as it can start in any gear. Also I'm going to be using the DEI 555x for my bypass. It's an older model but it works for my specific Lexus and can be had for $12, unless you have had problems with this. Thanks again man! I'll post more about the RS as I get ready to install.

Side note: the blinking LED while driving has been solved! I was right to suspect it was because of lack of ignition sensing. Also the Viper unit does NOT have an arm/disarm input so the OEM remote will NOT arm/disarm the Viper. Good to know my alarm works as it should lol.

The 555X is a good module and will perform fine for your application.  Just follow the install guide and be sure to use
the Black ignition key during programming.  (The Viper (-) Status Output goes to the 555X Blue wire.)

As mentioned, properly bypassing the clutch interlock switch is crucial.  The elaborate Reservation mode procedure
ensures the car's transmission is left in neutral and that the car remained locked and secure the entire time until the
remote start-up.  I believe Viper does not recommend installation in a convertible because of the possible risks there.
There could be two interlock switches on the clutch pedal, one for the engine starting ( senses the clutch pedal fully
depressed ) and one for cruise control cancellation ( senses the beginning of the clutch depression ).  A few minutes
with a DMM should figure it out.

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Soldering is fun!

I've found that my car has a closed type circuit for the clutch switch so I'll be using figure 1 diagram. The cruise control is the switch in front of the clutch pedal, while my starter is on the back and is depressed to start so that was simple enough to distinguish the two. Thanks again for the diagram, it was in the back of my mind but I haven't really searched of how to do it and you gave it to me on a silver platter.

Quick question for all the viper 2 way users though. I've noticed that when using my 1 way to arm/disarm that my 2 way remote does NOT update with the current status of my car on the OLED screen. Is this normal for viper?

I'm not a big Viper user so hopefully someone with Viper experience can help you with the remotes.

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Soldering is fun!

two things to check for with the OLED systems from my experience with viper.

1) check the antenna to make sure the antenna pin is NOT bent, and antenna cable is intact. They had a bad batch of antenna cables at one time.

2) in the OLED remote setting, ensure the two way paging status is ON. you can accidentally turn it off by mashing a few buttons

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks for the input tedmond, I'm going to take a look at the connecting pins and the overall integrity of the antenna cable in the AM. As for the paging settings I have it on "power save" but will switch it to "on" to see if that helps. I'll post my findings tomorrow. Thanks again for the help guys.