2010 honda accord immobilizer not working

Hello. I am trying to get the remote start in my girl friends car. The remote start works when you have the key in the ignition with "on" position. When the key is removed and RS activated, the key light on the dash flashes and the unit just cranks. The bypass module used is a DLPK. The 3 wires hooked up are:

Car/ DLPK
Blue immobilizer wire at key/ Orange brown
pink immobilizer wire at key/ orange green

Blue ignition wire / pink

The rest is hooked through the D2D to the remote starter. The unit says its programmed but not working. Any suggestions?

Actually the vehicle starts with the key next to the ignition.

you have purchased the wrong bypass module. The DLPK which is aka can-sl2 ONLY does convenience features. It does not provide any immobilizer data.

You should purchase an idatalink ads-alca flashed with DL-HA3 Or get a preloaded module such as the Fortin EVO-ALL. Another option is DBALL2 which also needs to be flashed, as with idatalink. All the units i have listed offer convenience AND immobilizer.

You have another option which is to purchase a Fortin Honda-SL3 which is strictly bypass and wire that in as well with the DLPK, Or fortin key-override-all. These 2 units are preloaded ready out of the box.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

It said on their website it would work for immobilizer. I have a dlpk in my nissan murano and that works for it too.

you are correct that the DLPK works as convenience and bypass for nissan, infinity and a few other select manufactures. Honda is NOT one of them. The xpresskit XK09 would have done both.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay. Didn't know that so a dball2 or db-all work with everything? Also will It allow the factory key fob to unlock the doors when running?

dball or dball2 will work well for your application. No module out there will allow the factory key fob to work while the vehicle is running. I know this car inside out as I had one for 5 years.

There is a way to keep the keyless working, but it requires great electrical knowledge and know how.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Care to share a diagram on how to do so? My girlfriend claims her 2008 honda was the same way but best buy ended up getting it to work with the factory fob.

2008-2012 accords are the same across the board. when running the factory system automatically shuts off.

You must install a one button start with the unlock wire hooked up, or buy a starter with integrated lock and unlock functions. Sorry the keyless info was something that i reverse engineered, so I am not willing to share that info. You can put an ADD on remote start, which uses the factory key LOCK x3 to start, but once you approach the car, the key will need to go into the driver keyhole. Reason being i suggest a unit with unlock options.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Fair enough. Can you explain how to use the double pulse unlock method with a guide to unlock the door with the RS remote?

*diode not guide

You shouldn't need any diodes for the unlock if you're using a data style interface. If you want a detailed guide go to Downloads, search for 2009 accord and there should be 2 documents posted by myself. That has a complete written guide if you choose to install a starter yourself.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay. Thanks for the input. I'll be looking into getting a differnt interface. Thank you.

Hello again. I ended up ditching the DLPK and getting a DBALL2. I hooked up the dball2 as suggested and had it flashed twice and still not working.


DBALL2 -- CAR
HS CAN Low: Tan: 4 -- CAN Low: Blue, pin 3
HS CAN High: Tan/Black: 3 -- CAN High: Pink, pin 4
Immobilizer Data: ORANGE / Black: 11 -- Immobilizer Data: Lt. Green,pin 6

D2D cable -- D2D on remote start

I followed the key programming in the guide and the light is solid green when the d2d cable is removed and plugged back in. I have also tried a reset and reprogramming on it.

The techs at the local directed dealer were no help even after taking my money to reflash the device again.

The Car as before starts when the key is near the ignition but will just crank without it near.

Is the green light on the Dball supposed to be lit up when the remote start is cranking? The light is off except when doing the programming.

Any other suggestions?

what unit are you using? you might be having d2d issues.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Viper 4203v.

I guess they call it a responder one or something also.

I've had data issues with that unit when they first came out. You might have to hardwire everything. Make sure you dont reset the bdall or else you loose the firmware on it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Hardwire the dball?

correct. forgot to mention you should try this first.

Red 4-pin port, Bitwriter/ESP2 or D2D programming
The Red 4-pin plug may be configured as a Bitwriter/ESP2 or D2D port.
The factory default is Bitwriter/ESP2 mode.
To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:
1. Make sure WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.
2. Power the unit up. The system LED flashes for 5 seconds to confirm D2D mode
change.
3. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground.


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

That's on the alarm correct?

I mean remote start.

yeah, older units shipped as esp and bitwriter as default, but the new units are defaulted as d2d. that should solve your communication issue

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Awesome. Thank you. I will give it a try after work.

I have the blue/white wire grounded, I guess I'm not understanding what's ment by power up unit. Turn the key on? Hit remote start button?

Nevermind. I got it to switch. Still not working though.

for sure you got it to switch? if the bypass programmed fine you should check the diagnostics during the remote start cycle

To use as D2D mode follow the below steps:
1. Remove all power from the R/S brain.
2. Make sure WHITE/ Blue activation wire is grounded.
3. Power the unit up. The system LED flashes for 5 seconds to confirm D2D mode change.
4. Remove the WHITE/ Blue wire from ground. ( Do this cleanly, without pulsing the WHITE/ Blue wire.)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I am sure it switched. I tried at at least 10 times all different ways. Had another friend of mine check to make sure it was programmed and indeed it was showing the correct honda firmware. The Dball programs to the key like it should via the instructions. Still when I activate the remote start it cranks then stops and that green key light on the dash flashes. I checked the wiring at least 8 times but I guess I could be missing something. Here is all my wiring again. Weird thing though. He thought the dball status light should flash while cranking or go solid green while cranking. Mine does not light up unless you unplug and plug back in the d2d cable to give it power. Then it will be a solid green for a second and go black. Also I noticed that holding the remote start button for a few seconds does not flash the lights. I have the selector on the RS unit to the negative setting per dball instructions. Also does the car have to be locked or anything special? I have tried it both locked and unlocked, door open and closed. I'm not sure what else to try...


DBALL2 -- CAR
HS CAN Low: Tan: 4 -- CAN Low: Blue, pin 3
HS CAN High: Tan/Black: 3 -- CAN High: Pink, pin 4
Immobilizer Data: ORANGE / Black: 11 -- Immobilizer Data: Lt. Green,pin 6

D2D cable -- D2D on remote start



Remote start -- Car wiring

_Heavy gauge relay wiring_
(2)RED(+) (30A)12V INPUT --12 VOLT CONSTANT,WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH

PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT -- STARTER YELLOW (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH

PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT -- IGNITION 1 BLUE (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH

ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT -- ACCESSORY 1 ORANGE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH

PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION -- ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 RED(+) @ IGNITION SWITCH

_Primary harness (H1) wiring_
GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM & 9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH --PARKING LIGHTS ( - )GRAY (-)@ HEADLIGHT SWITCH

BLACK GROUND -- Chassis ground

WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT -- chassis ground (only when switching modes to d2d)

_Remote start harness (H2) wiring_
BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT -- Chassis ground

BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE --BRAKE LT. GREEN (+) @ BRAKE SWITCH

_  Door lock harness, 3-pin connector_
Not used

_4-pin satellite harness wiring_
not used


----------------------------------------------------
_Remote start programming changes_

  Menu 2
1 Engine checking -- Changed to option 2 (voltage)
2 Run time -- changed to option 2 (24min, girlfriends preference)
4 Crank time -- Changed to option 3 (1.0 sec)
6 Ignition/accessory output -- Changed to Accessory (I think it flashed to it, It had on or off light for that option)

All other menu and features remained stock.

start the car with the key, press start on the remote, remove the key and see if the starter can keep the car running.
You cannot use voltage sense on this vehicle. after removing the key take a look at the bypass module. it should be flashing green

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I can take it over after starting with the key with the remote start and then removing the key. There are no lights on the dball.

you have d2d issues. either you havent switched it to d2d mode properly, bad data port or time to hardwire the bypass from the starter to the dball.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

To have also tried using virtual tach and that doesn't work any better.

as mentioned virtual tach does not work well on this vehicle.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Looking at the w2w diagram for the dball2. It looks like I'd only have to hook up power,gnd,locks and the tach. Maybe the wire labeled "Blue/White: (-) GWR (Status) Input" not sure what that is.

What do you set the tach to on that? Or do you run a wire to an injector?

you should be using the tach setting on the remote start, and the dball will supply a tach signal to your remote start. The status wire will be connected from your remote starts status output aka ground when running. this wire stays active during the remote start cycle

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Awesome. Thanks I will give that a try

Still didn't work. I did find that my connection wasn't good to the headlight wire. I fixed that and checked all other connections. Is the factory alarm disable wire on the remote start always grounded? In the directions it has me hook that to the parking light wire. It constantly dings saying the headlights are on. I know it's reading at least part of the can bus since I can ground the trunk output on the dball and it will pop the trunk and if I do the RS take over it will run and the RS remote will unlock the door. I tried setting the RS to tach and hooked the tach wire from the dball to the RS. It continuously cranks and cranks. There's gotta be a setting or something I am missing or maybe a bad unit...

your factory disarm wire should be NO WHERE near your parking light connection.
does it crank continuously without starting? or does it start then continue cranking?

If it cranks continuously that is an immobilizer problem. If it starts and continues cranking, thats a tach issue.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

If you look at the dball guide for the 2010 accord ( https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9565&productid=553&firmwareid=10103 ) It shows you hook the headlight and factory disarm to a gray wire on the combination switch.

It just cranks and cranks without starting. Unless I change it to voltage then it will crank for 1 second then stop. Still doesn't start though.

place the key into the ignition without turning it. Remote start the car. does it run? your ground when running aka status wire is not turning on, or you have the wrong wire

do you have auto headlights? that connection is only mandatory if you have auto lights. Personally, I would avoid that connection of the rearm to the parking light,instead connect it to the driver door pin

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yes the car runs when the key is sitting in the ignition (not on) and RS is activated. Once started with the RS I can remove the key and it stays running. I do have auto headlights.

So you think it's the status wire on the dball or the RS?

you need the status out of the viper into the dball. like i said put your rearm wire to the driver door pin. if you said theres a constant ground its a bad unit

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Is the status out issue causing the dball not to fire up? I am pretty stuck with this unit. This is what happens when you buy a "new" one off ebay.

Would grounding the status input on the dball or have a momentary ground trigger it to bypass?

yes you can test it by grounding the status wire, then remote start and if it starts you have a bad ground when running.

reset the viper brain, redo the d2d switching upon power up, and test the d2d again. If not w2w

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I don't think something is right with the grounding in the remote start. I couldn't get it to ground the blue white activation wire. I grounded the activation input for the dball using a relay on the acc wire and it works. I guess it's a cobble to do it this way but it does start and take over on it's own. Is there a setting I'm missing on the remote start? Also when it starts it honks once. Anyway to get rid of that honk?

You could also have used the pink low neg ignition wire on H2 and no relay required.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

the one on the satellite harness? These are the ones I have with this remote start:
  Primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
H1/1 LIGHT GREEN/
BLACK
FACTORY ALARM DISARM
H1/2 GREEN / WHITE FACTORY REARM
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/5 ORANGE (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED*
H1/6 BROWN (-) HORN OUTPUT
H1/7 RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT*
H1/8 BLACK GROUND
H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH
* not available with 1 button remote
  4-pin satellite harness wiring daigram
1 BLUE STATUS OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 PURPLE (-) STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) STARTER OUTPUT
  Heavy gauge relay wiring diagram
1 PINK (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO IGNITION CIRCUIT
2 PURPLE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO STARTER CIRCUIT
3 ORANGE (+) (30 AMP) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
4 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12 INPUT
5 PINK/WHITE (+) PROGRAMMABLE OUTPUT FOR ACCESSORY OR IGNITION
6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT

  Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK OUTPUT*
*Ignition controlled lock only
  Remote start harness (H2) wiring diagram
H2/1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
H2/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
H2/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE
H2/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH SHUTDOWN WIRE
H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT

use blue/white 2nd status output

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I'll give that a try Ted. Thanks for all your help. Any insite on how to get it not to honk when starting with the RS?

turn off the horn permanently. no need for audible notification

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay thanks

That worked. Thanks again Ted for all your help!

no problem

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert