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2001 Ford Excursion, Viper 5706v

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138383
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 7:36 AM


Topic: 2001 Ford Excursion, Viper 5706v

Posted By: hitagain
Subject: 2001 Ford Excursion, Viper 5706v
Date Posted: January 31, 2015 at 10:52 AM

Im installing a viper 5706v on a 2001 Ford excursion.
Have a couple of wiring questions. I have the Directwire Sheet.

the Direst wire sheet said N/A for second and third ign , but i see BLACK/ lt green that is a 2nd ign wire from fords wiring diagrams, do i need to connect to it?

Also the Direct wire show 3 accessory wires, I know the orange from the viper will go to gray / YELLOW but do i need to hook up any of others to the viper alarm unit?


Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: January 31, 2015 at 8:48 PM
tech sheets from directechs are not always spot on. It would be best to meter the wires yourself and power up all ignition/acc wires.

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: January 31, 2015 at 10:56 PM
DW sheets are not always accurate but I can tell you from experience they are accurate 99% of the time.

The sheet says unavailable for 2nd and 3rd ignition because there is no 2nd and 3rd ignition in this Vehicle.

Unavailable on directwire doesn't mean (information not available)
It means, the car doesn't have or require thewire or option listed. Directed just uses blankness for info unavailable.

Connect your Accessory wire to 1st Accessory.

Connect your 2nd ignition output from the Remote Start to the 2nd accessory wire. It is recommended to reprogram the output from 2nd ignition to accessory but not necessary as the vehicle will still start without any issues. The only difference is the accessory will not drop out during crank which is not an issue for this vehicle. (other models this is not always the case)

Finally add a relay for your 3rd accessory wire. as follows

85- negative accessory output
86+ and 87+ constant 12 volt fused.
30 to 3rd accessory in the vehicle.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 01, 2015 at 6:56 AM
Thank you, that was just the info I needed. Last time i installed a alarm systems we put key switches in the fenders...




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 01, 2015 at 10:24 AM
I have everything working but one thing. I wired into the wait to start light with an isolation diode and lost my wait to start light, I disconnected the wiring from the alarm to the wait to start light and still dont have wait to start light, is there an issue with wiring into the wait to start light that damages the circuit?




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 01, 2015 at 11:08 AM
you shouldn't need to wire into the light in the vehicle. you can program the remote start to wait to start for a predetermined amount of time. usually 10 seconds is sufficient.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 01, 2015 at 11:24 AM
the wait to start wire on the system is just an input, it shouldn't have damaged anything. try disconnecting the battery(negative terminal) for 15 minutes. if you still don't have a light...I'm not sure what happened.




Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: February 01, 2015 at 11:52 PM
Excursions and California pick-ups use a Glow Plug Module. I know the modules are notoriously unreliable, and are prone to failure. Perhaps the loss of the light with your install is only coincidental with a module failure.

Do the glow plugs seem to still work on a cold start?

EDIT: I just looked up the 2001 Excursion diesel wiring. The WTS light is controlled by the PCM, and is independent of the glow plug control module. It is a blk/pnk wire. The ECM grounds the blk/pink to turn on the WTS light. With the key on, you should see +12V on the blk/pnk wire after the ECM times out. If you don't see voltage, the bulb or something in the inst panel has failed.

Check Fuse 19 in the under dash fuse panel. It's probably OK. If Fuse 19 blows, the truck will only idle. It will not respond to throttle. Ask me how I know. Check 19 anyway, that's the power to the WTS light.






Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 02, 2015 at 3:52 PM
Found the problem with the wait to start light, I had changed all the dash lights to LEDs and the LED doesnt seem to like the wait to start wire added to the circuit, will just go with a programmed time delay.

Im using a pkfm D2D for my bypass when i plug in my 10 wire harness to the pkfm the theft light in the dash flashes fast, I have the green spliced to the white green, and the pink to the gray orange, the orange wire to the ign wire of the trunk not the pats ign. Any ideas?




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 02, 2015 at 4:44 PM
ignition wire to the trunk? what do you mean? You need to install the ignition wire exactly where the directions says. those bypasses are picky. I'm assuming you have 2 keys, and youve made sure the 5706 is in d2d mode if your going that route.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 02, 2015 at 6:08 PM
Sry typo truck. How do you put the 5706 in D2D mode?




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 02, 2015 at 6:32 PM
I will be honest, I know some models have started chipping, default d2d mode and I'm not 100% if your model is or isnt set d2d default., but, the process went: unplug the connector with 12volt power. ground the negative activation. (usually white with blue stripe) then plug the power back in while the neg activation is still grounded. the led should flash 6 times. disconnect neg activation. if led doesnt flash, then it is already in data mode and the problem lies elsewhere. I can tell you...those pkfm's are tricky lil sons o b's




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 02, 2015 at 6:40 PM
If the d2d switch doesnt work try these steps in this order
1 being most likely to work.

1. connect your negative status out from the viper, to your negative ground while running on pkfm. if that fails.
2.Switch the rx and tx connections. if that fails.
3. switch ignition power from truck, to security module ignition. if that fails.
4.switch from d2d to w2w

I know its alot..but its very typical for that module. but I highly doubt you make it to step 4 before you get it to work. barring a defective module.





Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 2:32 PM


1. connect your negative status out from the viper, to your negative ground while running on pkfm. if that fails. No change
2.Switch the rx and tx connections. if that fails. The theft light stops flashing fast but when i try to program in get a fast flashing light on the PKFM
3. switch ignition power from truck, to security module ignition. if that fails. No change
4.switch from d2d to w2w No change





Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 4:48 PM
I want to add that the pkfm install sheets say the truck should have the A style connector, my truck look more like the the b type.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:11 PM
I think I see what might be going on.

switch back the rx and tx connections.
make "sure" u have ignition at the module. (we want to eliminate all "maybes"
not sure if u flashed the module or not but if u got it already flashed. try to confirm its flashed to pkfm firmware or if u have a xkloader reflash again.

leave it in w2w mode. As I said. u having trouble with this module does not suprise me. I have had to go through this same headache with these in the past. and w2w is less likely to fail than d2d.

when u are programming, look at the theft light on the dash, as soon as the theft light goes out, turn the key off (not before)


here is the big question. are u trying to program with 1 key or 2?
because. I've never been able to flash a pkfm using 1 key. unless they have just recently made this module capable of only 1 key.
I know the directions say 1 key but if you have 2 keys try doing it using #2 program. and yes, also not uncommon for directed to get the plugs mixed up. doesnt matter tho, as long as you have tx to tx, rx to rx and ignition to ignition. only thing that changes with different plugs is the order of the wires the functions are the same. and weve already confirmed order is not wrong when we reversed the rx and tx earlier.





Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:17 PM
also, when you are attempting to remote start, as soon as you see the theft light blinking, that means programmed failed and its not going to start. so hit the brake, that way we dont lock up the security. u will know when the program works because the theft light will turn steady when u go to remote start. so if u she it flash, just hit the brake and start over.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:22 PM
disregard what I said about flashing the module. I forgot this is a Solex Module.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:27 PM
I cant even get to the programming part. as soon as i plug in the pkfm the dash light starts flashing fast and then it wont start even with the keys.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:38 PM
sorry for all the posts, not trying to confuse you, but just trying to relay as much knowledge to you as possible, so you dont have to keep waiting for responses inbetween your install.

just wanted to note, that when you said.. you get a fast flashing light when u reverse the wires, that confirms 2 things.
1. the rx and tx connections (as you orginally had them) where correct. process of elimination.

2. That the module is working properly and is responding to inputs.


I'm really questioning this # of keys. I just confirmed with another installer that all pkfms hes installed in the past (always) used 2 keys.

However neither him or I have installed a pkfm lately because we've both stopped using the module, so either, the directions are wrong or directed has added 1 key only capable software to that module.

only way to confirm this is by trying the 2 key program. or if you only have 1 key, try 2 key program but use same key twice.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:39 PM
Im wondering if going to a pkall would be better at this point.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 5:42 PM
I have 2 keys, so i m good there. When i plug the 10 wire harness to the pkfm the theft light on the dash starts flashing fast the when i insert try to se a key the theft light never stops flashing fast.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 6:35 PM
if you are going to switch modules. hands down the most reliable and easy to install is the 556u with a key in the box.

if u cant get it to start with the key, let it alone 15 minutes, it maybe security locked.

do a module reset, hold down programming button then insert 10 pin harness. led turns on, let go of button. try program using 2 keys.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 6:36 PM
which ways have you already tried programming, using 1 key or 2?




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 6:40 PM
kinda, let me know, what wires u have connected and what steps youve taken. ("so I'm good there") is not detailed enough for me to familiarize myself with whats going on and whats failing. walk me threw your exact program procedure.   don't give up yet man!! lol




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 7:06 PM
green spliced to the white green
pink to the gray orange
orange wire to the pats ign wire
Red to fused 12v
black to ground
brown to the status output of the 5706 ( dark blue)

I have done a reset on the pkfm
when i plug in the pkfm the theft light in the dash starts flashing fast.
neither key will cause the theft light to go solid and then out just stays flashing.
waited 15 minutes theft light was out tried to use a key, theft light doesn't come on, and the keys wont start the truck.




Posted By: banthonyb71
Date Posted: February 03, 2015 at 7:46 PM
did you wait with or without the module plugged in?

make sure d2d harness is no longer connected and confirm ignition at the security plug.

if the truck doesnt start with or without the module plugged in, wait 15 minutes, without plugged in, then try to start with key, then try to plug in the module.

If it only doesnt start with the module plugged in and youve tried reset then, unfortunately, I think the bypass is lost firmware and at this point go trade it for a 556u and a key or you can use your own 2nd key. Those pkalls can be just a tricky as a pkfm sometimes, and they only program once.


however if you can somehow manage to get the module to reset, without flashing, try programming the keys different, (as youve yet to tell me which ways youve tried and havnt. either with 1 key or 2 or both.

this is all I got, keep me updated tho and if switch modules and need help, let me know. but the 556u is super easy and probably cheaper.




Posted By: hitagain
Date Posted: February 05, 2015 at 3:57 PM
PKall installed programmed and remote start is working, must be an issue with the pkfm. Have a couple more things to hook up and i should be good to go that for all your help so far.






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