Keyless entry and alarm, 2002 Chevy Impala
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138563
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 6:07 PM
Topic: Keyless entry and alarm, 2002 Chevy Impala
Posted By: drewart
Subject: Keyless entry and alarm, 2002 Chevy Impala
Date Posted: February 25, 2015 at 8:30 AM
Hello all,
I am looking to get all the information I need in one spot. I have tried jumping around the site reading different forums but get lost really quick.
I am looking to install a keyless entry with a alarm on a 2002 chevy impala base. I am not interested in installing a remote start so if that takes out a few steps then it's a plus.
Also, what systems would y'all recommend?
Replies:
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 25, 2015 at 2:44 PM
Viper 211HV
Avital - 2101L
those would be the quality but costly ~65
CM800S keyless entry and remote start. You can leave the remote start portion disconnected. ~65 as well
or any cheap ebay no name brand keyless will do as well. After-all, its only keyless entry. ~30
Tons of brands, pick whatever fits your budget.
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 25, 2015 at 4:50 PM
Ted, OP was asking for alarm as well as k/entry.
Suggest in ascending price:-
Avital 3100.
Viper 3203
Viper 3303
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 25, 2015 at 11:01 PM
other options, increasing in price as well
Compustar CS700-A
Viper 3105
Avital 3300
Viper 3606
Compustar CS5102A
Viper 3305
missed the alarm part
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: February 26, 2015 at 8:40 AM
Thank you guys! One question I have is that I have seen the other posts that say I need a 480 ohm resistor on the lock side with a relay system. The problem I am facing is that I cannot find a 480 resistor. will I need to combine a 10 ohm and 470 ohm? Also, does it matter if it is a 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 26, 2015 at 8:57 AM
1/4 watt is fine, 470R will do.
If you buy a cheaper unit with only 2 lock/unlock wires you'll need a DEI 451 relay to drive or overcome the resistor.
This comes with a wide selection of resistors.
If the lock wires are 6 that means internal relays, you only need the resistor.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: February 26, 2015 at 12:47 PM
Howie,
What do you mean only 2 lock/unlock wires? For example using the Compustar CS700-A is this one that would need a DEI 451m relay?
As for the DEI 451m relay is it the same as wiring two relays together? I have a diagram showing how to do this and was planning on using two relays, would the 451m make it easier?
Sorry for all of the questions I just want to absorb everything I can. Thank you for everything!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 26, 2015 at 12:56 PM
Yes you can use 2 relays, the 451 plugs directly into DEI product, not sure about Compustar, also smaller size, plus the resistors, as an installer I much prefer that to two separate relays, except if the unlock is a direct NEG switching you'll only the relay on the lock side.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: February 26, 2015 at 2:25 PM
This is the diagram that I have. From what you said I guess that I would only need one relay? 
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 02, 2015 at 7:05 PM
UPDATE
So I went with the Avital 3100. I am looking at the wiring and trying to correspond it over to my vehicle but a few are not clicking for me.
H1/P1 - (-) 500mA Ground-when Armed output - not sure
H1/P2 - (+/-) Selectable Light flash output - Parking lights
H1/P3 - (-) 200mA Channel 3 Validity Output - not sure
H1/P4 - (-) 200mA Interior Light Illum. Output - not sure
H1/P5 - (-) Door Trigger Input - Door Trigger wire
H1/P6 - (-) Multiplex trigger input - Not sure
H1/p7 - (+) Door Trigger Input - not used
H1/P8 - (-) Chassis Ground input - Chassis
H1/P9 - (+) Ignition Input, Zone 5 - #1 ignition wire?
H1/P10 - (+) Siren Output - Siren positive wire
H1/P11 - (+) Constant 12 Volts - 12 Volt from ignit
H1/P12 - (-) 200mA Channel 2 Validity Output - Trunk release?
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 02, 2015 at 7:10 PM
H1/P1 - (-) 500mA Ground-when Armed output - Use if you want a starter kill
H1/P2 - (+/-) Selectable Light flash output - Parking lights
H1/P3 - (-) 200mA Channel 3 Validity Output - additional output if you need an aux
H1/P4 - (-) 200mA Interior Light Illum. Output - not needed, unless you want interior lights to go on when unlocking. I believe the impala does this already.
H1/P5 - (-) Door Trigger Input - Door Trigger wire
H1/P6 - (-) Multiplex trigger input - N/A
H1/p7 - (+) Door Trigger Input - N/A
H1/P8 - (-) Chassis Ground input - Chassis
H1/P9 - (+) Ignition Input, Zone 5 - Vehicle ignition
H1/P10 - (+) Siren Output - Siren positive wire
H1/P11 - (+) Constant 12 Volts - 12 Volt from ignition
H1/P12 - (-) 200mA Channel 2 Validity Output - Connect to relay or low current trigger if you have electronic trunk pop.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 02, 2015 at 7:46 PM
Thanks Ted! So to use the H1/P1 I would just need to ground it and utilize the starter interrupt harness that came in the kit?
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 02, 2015 at 8:23 PM
i don't use Directed products, but you need a relay
85 - ground when armed
86 - ignition input
cut starter wire in half
87a - key side
30 - car side
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 5:35 AM
You will need one relay for your lock/unlock wire to drive the resister.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 11:52 AM
Okay, so I got it all wired up, but for some reason the DEI 451m isn't getting a big enough ground trigger for the doors to lock and unlock. I have the resistor between the vehicle lock/unlock wire and the 451. Also the trunk doesn't seem to be getting anything either. Any thoughts on the next step?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 11:55 AM
The resistor goes on the blue/black unlock wire AFTER the 451 module. Then join the lock, GREEN/ black and unlock, blue/black together then extend to lock wire.
Trunk release:- BCM, grey 16 pin plug, pin A7.
451:-
Purple and PURPLE / black to ground.
WHITE/ black, BROWN / black don't use.
Blue/black and GREEN/ black to lock wire.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 12:02 PM
Really? I thought the resistor went on the lock GREEN/ black wire. I'll give that a shot and follow up. For the truck I have it going to the solid black wire at the truck push button should I just go straight to the BCM?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 12:07 PM
You're quite right on the GREEN/ black, sorry.
No go to the BCM, you're probably hitting the high current output wire.
Check the voltage at red input and black ground, should be at least 12.4V+.
Bet you have a poor ground. Use an existing body bolt and scrape away any paintwork.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 12:16 PM
Okay I'll see about getting to the grey on the BCM For the truck. Just looked at the fuse in line to ground on the 451 and it's blown. Not sure what caused that but it could be the problem lol
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 12:38 PM
The fuse that was there was a 15 should it be a 20?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 04, 2015 at 2:36 PM
No, you've done something wrong if the fuse blows. Make sure it's wired as I posted.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 05, 2015 at 7:04 AM
So I got a new fuse and double checked my wiring. Everything looks good. I go and give it a shot and nothing. Is it possible that I got the wrong ORANGE / black wire for look/unlock in the bundle by the fuse box?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 05, 2015 at 9:39 AM
TEST
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 05, 2015 at 11:39 AM
I got it all working. There is two ORANGE / black wires by the fuse box.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 06, 2015 at 10:12 AM
Last night we had so strong winds and caused the alarm to go off multiple times. Which way should I turn the sensitivity knob so that it is not as sensitive? I know this may seem like a retarded question but I am not sure which way the pot a set for resistance.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 06, 2015 at 10:14 AM
Anti clockwise.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 06, 2015 at 8:35 PM
Update:
So I adjusted the sensitivity and alarm still goes off without notable cause from the exterior. I found that the door trigger wire drops below the voltage that the alarm system is seeing. This makes the alarm think there is a ground thus making the false alarm. My current trial fix for this is a SPDT relay. I have the door trigger cut so that it has to go through pin 85 to 86 and have a jumper from 30 to 86. The system wire is attached to the 87A pin. This way while the trigger line is energized the 87A to 30 route will be open leaving the standing voltage on the system. As soon as the trigger circuit is not energized the route between 87A and 30 will close, allowing the standing voltage to drop and setting off the alarm. I will update late after the system has time to run its course.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 07, 2015 at 4:20 AM
Door trigger drops below voltage???
Well that's a first in 40+ years in the game.
If you have a NEG going door trigger connected to your green wire on the alarm it will see 12V+ when door closed and 0V+ when a door is opened. It needs to see the 0 to actuate the alarm.
Why don't you use the alarm's diagnostics.
Second that relay, fed continuously a recipe for a drained battery.
.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 07, 2015 at 12:22 PM
Left front = dark blue BCM grey 16 pin plug, A8
Right front = dark blue/white, same plug A1
Left and right rear; as right front.
Diode isolate from each other and look up 1076 in the Downloads/Manuals section.
Bet it was triggering every half hour or so.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 07, 2015 at 5:28 PM
the door pins do not drop in voltage. The enter a self test mode to verify if doors are closed, causing errors. Howie mentioned to follow 1076, that will solve your problem. Unplug the harness from the BCM, it will give you plenty of slack to work with.
-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: drewart
Date Posted: March 08, 2015 at 7:53 PM
Ah, okay that makes sense Ted. I went and removed the relay since I do not want to have a dead battery said from the system and am waiting for the local shop to open tomorrow. I looked over 1076 and from what Howie said for wiring I will need four diodes, correct? Two diodes going from the BCM to the switches for driver and passenger doors and two going from the alarm system to the switch side of the other diodes. Also, what would be the best diode to use in this install, I see that 1076 says 1 amp diode and I found 1N4004 at my local shops site would these do the job? Thank you both for all of your help and sharing your knowledge. I work in a radio communications repair shop but never really dived into car installs until recently.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 08, 2015 at 10:36 PM
you should need 8 total. One on each of the 4 door pins INLINE to the bcm, and 4 to isolate one another to the alarm.
1n4004 will work just fine.
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 09, 2015 at 3:15 AM
4 Ted, right front and two rears are the same wire.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: March 09, 2015 at 3:53 PM
howie ll wrote:
4 Ted, right front and two rears are the same wire.
4 diodes it is !  ------------- Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 09, 2015 at 6:06 PM
I cribbed the install guide!  ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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