just installed viper v4204 with dball in Honda fit 2010. everything works fine except when remote started the unlock wont unlock doors. I get conformation on two way remote stating that its unlocked but its not. when not remote started unlock works perfect. any help would be appreciated. used gray wire at dash fusebox for unlock.
Probably got the wrong analog Unlock wire. Here is a link to the iDatalink install guide for that same car :
https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA2/ADS-AL(DL)-HA2-EN_20141211.pdf
The Type 1 Fit install diagram has a nice wire connector diagram for the analog Lock/Unlock wires to assist in locating the correct wire.
It's either that or double check the DB-ALL2's Red 12 Pin connector for damage or a seating issue..
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Soldering is fun!
test to see if the dball is sending a negative out. also in the kick, there are 2 grey wires. test o verify you have the correct one.
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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
Kreg, checked your diagram and that's the same grey wire I hooked my unlock wire into. Checked connecter and didn't see damage and it works everytime while vehicle isn't remote started. Any ideas?
The theory :
The way it works ( if the DB-ALL handles it the same way iDatalink does ) is the R/S sends the Lock & Unlock commands
to the DB-ALL. The R/S has no direct connections to the vehicle for the locks, it all goes through the DB-ALL. If the engine
is OFF, the DB-ALL passes the lock commands to the vehicle via the Single wire CAN Bus system. That part works OK. If the
engine is running, the vehicle ignores the lock commands on the CAN bus so the DB-ALL goes a more direct route, to the
vehicle's lock wires. Those are the two hard wired DB-ALL connections to the DKP.
Verify that you have the correct Unlock wire by using the ADS diagram, then a DMM test and finally with a fused jumper
wire to chassis ground. If all that is OK, and the DB-ALL Red 12 Pin connector is OK, then.. Time to check the actual
DB-ALL output on the GREEN/ Black wire with a DMM.
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Soldering is fun!
Ok thank you for your input very helpful. I'll check over everything this weekend. If my dball isn't sending out negative signal would I be able to just wire in lock/unlock wires from r/s unit?