Code Alarm CA4051 and 2006 Camry

Hello,
Great site and it has a lot of great information.
I'm trying to get my remote start working on my 2006 Camry 4cy CE model (manual transmission). No "security" word or light near the heater controls.
I relocated the clutch switch as I always leave it in neutral with the parking brake set.
I have a Code Alarm CA-4051 and a SPDT relay (I'll pick up the 1n4004 diode to cross pins 85 and 86.
I had the remote start working but it tossed an engine code of starter resistance high and seemed to have a rev limiter when driving as I couldn't rev past 4k rpm's.

Here's what I think I know based on reading on this site and my install so far.

CA-4051

4-Pin Main Harness
- 1:Blue/Black Ignition 3 (not used)
- 2:PURPLE / White Tach input (not used-smart tach mode enabled)
- 3:Gray Hood Pin Input (not used)
- 4:BROWN / Red Brake Input (vehicle GREEN / WHITE wire)

3-Pin Parking Light Harness
- 1:Black Ground (vehicle ground)
- 2:WHITE/ Red Parking Light Input (vehicle 12v power)
- 3:White Parking Light Output (vehicle Green wire)

6-Pin Start Harness (here's where it gets tricky)
- 1:Purple Starter Output (to relay Pin 86)
- 2:Red Battery 12v (to vehicle honkin WHITE/ Red wire)
- 3:Orange Accessory (to vehicle Blue/Red wire)
- 4:Pink/White Ignition 2 (unknown - some show this wire to BLACK / YELLOW and other diagrams show relay Pin 30 to BLACK / YELLOW)
- 5:RED / White Battery 12v (tied in with Pin2 to vehicle WHITE/ Red wire)
- 6:Pink Ignition 1 (to vehicle BLACK/ Red wire)

4-Pin Alternate Output Harness
- 1:Lt GREEN/ Black Factory Disarm (unused)
- 2:Lt Blue Factory Arm (unused)
- 3:GREEN / WHITE Pulse After Shutdown (unused)
- 4:BLACK / YELLOW Pulse During Crank (to relay Pin85)

2-Pin Lock Output Harness
- 1:Blue (unused)

IHOH I will be sure to use a diode across the relay!

This vehicle has 2x ign, 2x starter

2006 Toyota Camry     DirectWire Vehicle Information
Remote Start
Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location
12 Volts     WHITE/ Red     +     Ignition Harness
Second 12 Volts +     
Starter     BLACK / YELLOW (small)     +     Ignition Harness
Second Starter     BLACK/ White     +     Ignition Harness
Ignition     BLACK/ Red     +     Ignition Harness
Second Ignition     BLACK / YELLOW     +     Ignition Harness
Accessory     Blue/Red     +     Ignition Harness


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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have no idea what to do with that information...

Can you copy/paste the harness info into a reply with the wire it needs to go to?

i listed the wires that you have to power up at the ignition. Your remote start can only supply 1start output. You will need a relay to power the second starter wire

85 - negative during crank BLACK / YELLOW from code alarm
86 - constant 12v fused at 15amp
87 - constant 12v from 86
30 - second starter wire on vehicle

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Again, not helpful. Neither of you took the time to read my post or you'd see I have a relay and understand what I'm asking. I took the time to post the harness info and what wires I think are correct.
All I got back so far is a cut and paste of garbled information and a relay. Seriously. Where's Howie when you need him...

WHAT WIRES FROM THE CODE ALARM GOES TO WHAT WIRES TO INSTALL?

Anyone??

Spent a few minutes putting this together. Input is appreciated. :)

Are the Pink/White to BLACK / YELLOW and relay Pin 30 to BLACK / YELLOW going to the same vehicle BLACK / YELLOW?

I found this in search, I'll add it to my diagram.

There Are Two BLACK / YELLOW Wires One Tests Like A Starter Wire The Other Like An Ignition, Please Check.

OP,

Not to disagree with you but I have found Tedmond to be very helpful, with both answers on this forum and more directly with
PM conversations.  While your wire listing did mention a relay on the units' Starter output, no relay specifics were given indicating
that both Starter wires wire powered correctly during a remote start. 

Anyway, there are two Starter wires and two Ignition wires on your car.  As per usual, Toyota has two BLACK / YELLOW wires at the
ignition switch harness, one is Starter2 and the other is Ignition2.  I will assume you have a DMM and are capable of using it to
make the proper identifications.  Here is some info from ReadyRemote on the ignition wires & location in the connector :
12volts   WHITE/ red (30A)   + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
Starter BLACK/ white  +      ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8  
Second Starter             BLACK / YELLOW  +    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1  
Ignition   BLACK/ red  +         ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6  
Second Ignition            BLACK / YELLOW  +    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 4  
Accessory        blue/red  +           ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3

One possible reason Howie II did not respond is because you are installing a "Automatic Transmission" only, non-Manual
Transmission safe remote start system into a vehicle with a manual transmission.  Simply bypassing the vehicles
clutch interlock safety switch because "you always leave it in neutral" is a major legal issue and constitutes a serious
violation of 12Volt Forum rules.

I would definitely recommend that you remove this R/S system and purchase a "manual transmission safe" unit, undo your
clutch interlock hack and properly bypass the clutch interlock switch only during a remote start.  I would hate to see a YouTube
video of your car sticking through the side of a building ( or worse ).

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Soldering is fun!

OK here we go!
Howard isn't there for you because we ain't seen Cams, Maxis, Legends since 03 and Gallants since 04. Done in by BMs , Audis and Benz.
In your diagram, the diode is the wrong way round on the relay.
Also 86 on that relay should be ignition fed.
Second, Kreg and Ted can be the most helpful people around.
Last X 2 with Kreg reference manual TX vehicle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm also confused because there doesn't appear to be a GWR wire either.
Also hard wire tach, should be at pin 9 OBD ll socket.
But you aren't going to install it now that you realise you have a manual TX.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What Kreg said.

You've got three basic problems I see here:

1: The relay setup in your diagram---when the car is started with the key, the BLACK/ white (which is tied to your purple) will trigger the relay, which probably won't hurt anything, but certainly won't help. This is making the car behave in a way it wasn't designed from the factory. 85 should have just fused constant instead.

2: It wouldn't be too hard to interface with the clutch the right way.

3: It wouldn't be too much more expensive to buy a proper manual-transmission remote starter, with only a few extra wires to connect.

4: If the moderator(s) don't come by soon to delete/lock this post, reconsider the "always leaving it in neutral." Back in the day, I had several friends who "always left it in neutral." And also "My car is so special and I'm such a fancy person, no one else EVER drives my car."

One of these cars was borrowed from the driveway during the evening for a quick errand, and then returned. The next morning, the owner remote-started his car, and went outside to find the car had driven into his backyard. Lucky his little sister wasn't playing back there. Or if the car had been in reverse, it would have backed out across the sidewalk and into the street.

The other car, I think it was maybe moved because it was blocking another car in, or, well I forget. But what I do know is that after a hard day's work at the car-stereo shop, the salesman found his nice Mustang smashed into the side of a Civic out in the parking lot.

Another story: I spent a few years as a tow-truck driver. I remember one of the drivers had towed a car into the lot---it was a shiny beautiful red Celica. The driver, using the tow truck, backed the car into a parking spot in the tow yard, lowered it and disconnected it from the truck. The car's alarm sounded---probably due to its shock sensor. The tow driver was using the Celica's alarm remote control, trying to disarm the alarm, and BOOM!----car lurched forward and smashed into the wheel lift of the tow truck! If the driver had been standing between the truck and the car, he could have lost a leg or two.