Avital 5303L diagram, 1976 Triumph

Hi all I'm trying a 5303l install into a 1976 triumph dolomite sprint and I have a query regarding the wiring diagram enclosed with the alarm.

If I look at all the 5303 install manuals I can lay my hands on it shows:

H1/1 RED / white (-) 200ma trunk release output

but on the diagram enclosed with the alarm they have added aux to this:

H1/1 RED / white (-) 200mA aux trunk release output

no biggie probably exactly the same me thinks until I reach the H2 harness which has gone from:

H2/2 WHITE/ black (-) aux 2 output
H2/3 violet/black (-) aux 1 output

to:
H2/2 WHITE/ black (-)200mA aux 3 output
H2/3 violet/black (-) 200mA aux 2 output

my question is when I push aux button (middle button on side) on the 2 way remote for 1.5 sec which wire will give me power? Is it h1/1? (which I presume is what the 1 way remote trunk button engagaes?) I am going to use the aux button to engage a timed relay powering a solenoid on the choke for remote start.

Thanks
Davie

Yes H1/1 red white is the one to use.
Or use white violet linked to remote start this will negate you having to push any buttons. Also you won't need a timed relay, just an ordinary relay you can program the aux output as timed, default is 20 seconds.
By the way, this is a kludge and probably won't work.
Doubt if the solenoid will pull the choke enough.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I haven't worked on one of those since about 1974!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for that. I have tried the choke without cable attached and it's pretty easy to push so I was thinking a timed relay feed for remote start and simple rocker switch in the dash to the solenoid for manual operation??? Maybe it'll never work?

I was also thinking that maybe h2/2 might be better as it can be used latched? Though I'd probably need a bitwriter to set that?

Howie your giving away your age

I was born in 1974.

Dolly sprint = mid life crisis. It's marginally cheaper than a mistress

That vehicle dates from the worst years of British Leyland and Red Robbo.
Actually the ancestor of the 3 Series in many ways.
Probably along with the Triumph 2000/2500 the only decent product.
I did have a Spitfire in 66 though.
30, not 20 second default, Bitwriter can change that.
Shame they didn't have a decent injection back then.
Don't mention the mechanical POS on the Tr6.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie I know exactly what you mean, it was a bad age for british motor industry but there is something special about the dolly sprint. Everything I look at surprises me. There was some real forward thinking on the sprint, the 16v engine is a bit of a gem ( could do with some tweaks i.e. lightening components clutch cover, pistons and conrods etc and it could do with a little more beef to hold the crankshaft) it is really pretty decent otherwise.

It even had seat belt sensors - wow

The carb setup is unquestionably it's weakest point but i'd rather have that than the mechanical f inj for sure. I may go megasquirt eventually

The build quality is awful but if you scrunch up your eyes and look at it from 100 feet away the panel gaps look ok

A build quality, they were where the French are today! = CRAP which stands for Citroen Renault And Peugeot.
Funnily enough today's British build quality, Mini = German, Land/RangeRover, Jag = Indian, Honda, Nissan and Toyota = Japanese, still built in the UK and Nissans are exported to Japan because of their build quality!
The advanced for its time engine was the best part of the Dolly.
Don't forget, disc brakes, fuel injection and ABS, all first used (road going) on British cars.
No More Panel Gaps on Jags!!!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What a shame I daren't admit my cousin is the Pres of a certain country's Trumpy Club. I'm not saying that's why we emigrated to the opposite hemisphere...

As to DIY EFI (pun intended), may I suggest looking at Delco? The old 808s in particular are common here have been well remapped and applied to different engines. Masters that I've known ended up with Delco despite decades pushing other systems to the point of twin injectors etc.

The advantage of a Delco is that the EMS with all its sensors (including distributor HEI & IAC assembly, and the wiring loom - get the lot) can usually be obtained for a few hundred dollars from wreckers.