1997 Honda Ballade Sedan Immobilizer Bypass

Good day! I would like to know if this vehicle's factory immobiliser can be bypassed.it immobilize with the keyless entry remote.the remote is totally busted.this is the 2nd honda with the same issue.their remote looks exactly like the shurlock remote but with no name on it I don't know if it is factory or not.google give me different answers

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

If it has a green key light on the instrument panel the answer is no. If not trace the wiring probably just a starter (BLACK/ white) cut.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No green key light on instrument panel,so I guess this can only be a aftermarket immobiliser system.I will have a look to see if (BLACK / YELLOW) or (BLACK/ white) is cut.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

I will fit a new system in this vehicle after bypassing.its a mission to get wires from doors through to inside of the car of this vehicle,fingers had a few cuts last time I installed aftermarket central locking.grommet almost at fender.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

All Civic variants are a nightmare to run cables from door to car!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Wow I thought I'm the only one noticing it lol.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

It Took me some time but I have finally bypassed the immobiliser on this vehicle two weeks back.what I would like to know about the hondas including civis between 1996-1998.was there a sub contract who fitted these alarm/immobilisers on these vehicle or was it fitted by honda.reason why I ask is,it look like this system was factory fitted,the holes where module was mounted is original holes aswell as the blue plucks where the black wiring is going to under the fuse box where it slides in.I see a lot of these vehicles around here with the same remote,it immobilize starter,ignition and fuel pump.enjoy fitting alarms into these vehicles,I get all my wires at one pluck.last question,the factory central locking doesn't work on this car,I have checked the c/locking fuse (20A) in engine compartment,and it looks fine.any skill on finding this problem?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

They would have been done at either the importing port or by a dealer.
I used to fit Scorpion alarms custom designed for Toyotas brackets, position, plugs etc. matching factory. Renault Espace used to have a plug to fit Cobra alarms.
The Italians, Cobra, Scorpion and Piranha used to custom make for vehicle manufacturers. Another Italian brand custom made for UK BMWs in the early 90s.
As for the central locking, could be anything.
Test the fuse via a DMM, relays module, broken wire into driver door.
Depending on where made, 3 door was Japanese, lock module in driver's door, grey, screwed in on top with a brass coloured screw.
UK, 5 door had a Lucas module in the centre console beneath the radio.
Japanese was single point, i.e. only from driver door key, Euro was multipoint, either front door. Also look for a broken cable, driver door entry loom. Motor colours if I remember were WHITE/ red and yellow/red but it's been at least 10 years since I've worked on one so I can't confirm. Power supply was WHITE/ green from the fuse.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

There is a module screwed in on drivers door.I will have it checked out.Thanks a lot for all the information Howie.Much appreciated!!

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

That means single point locking.
Check the power supply at the module, WHITE/ green should be 12 Volt constant.
The other "thick" (2 of course) are the motor wires.
Other wires will be ground (earth) probably black.
2 trigger wires, blue/red, blue/white?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If the module is faulty, you can replace it quite cheaply with a lock relay from SPAL.*
Once you've established power, ground and motors the trigger wires will alternatively go to ground when door is either locked or unlocked.
*Twin relay with shutdown after 3 seconds.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

WHITE/ green I have checked,but was not sure if it was the proper wire.yes it had 12v on it and the black is just next to it which I tested as ground.those 2 wires seem fine,I've also feed some current to the motors momentarily and it moved.so it could either be a broken wire or module itself?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Broken wire in the door return or more likely the module itself.
The other thick wires, disconnect at plug and loop WHITE/ red to POS (WHITE/ green), other thick to ground. With passenger door unlocked, this should lock it. Then reverse the connections to unlock it.
If the above works then it's the module, cheapest replacement, find a firm in S.A. importing either Spal or MES lock and window products (Google) and order a relay.
Don't buy cheap Chinese junk as advertised on Fleabay, about 30% failure rate.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Will all doors lock or only pass side?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Only passenger side on Euro Spec. see if the motor wires go to the rear of the driver's door. I believe there's only a switch (off key hole and lock rod).
Up to 2000 model we had to add an actuator in the driver's door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes motor wires go to driver rear.when you talk about add actuator in driver door.I see on some vehicles you have to add an actuator in drivers door.I normaly do it when I can't find the c/locking trigger wires.what is the main reason puting an actuator in driver door?

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

When there isn't one already! BTW have a physical look it seems you already have one if the motor wires go to the rear. Check.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you!I will have a look tomorrow morning and will let you know.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Just test as I told you, that will give you the answers.
AFAIK Japanese build Civics for all regions bar North America didn't have an actuator in the driver's door pre- 2000.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just thought of something, did the remote lock/unlock the car as well? If so there WILL be an actuator in the driver's door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes the remote did,sorry if I didn't mention it.but all doors have actuators in.the question for the (add actuator in drivers door) was not ment for this vehicle,was a (out of the blue) question.all doors have actuators with wiring going to it.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

Actually no, Gen 1/2 Astras, had the wiring but only a switch, we simply added an actuator to the existing wiring for remote keyless entry and or alarms.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I understand 100% now.it makes more sense.

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Do it once,do it right - This means no short cuts. You never get paid twice for having to do the job twice because it wasn't done right the first time.