2009 Toyota Camry. Regular Key, non-hybrid car.
No Alarm, Does have Autolights. This car did have a Knee Air-Bag
Installed a Viper 4706 Remote Starter with a DB-ALL in W2W mode.
DB-ALL flashed with TL1 v3.19. DB-ALL programed on the first try.
I hard wired the Tach wire instead of going through the DB-ALL
since the Tach wire was right there at the OBD Connector and easy to get at. DB-ALL handeled the door lock/unlock and the trunk pop.
I could not find an access out to the engine compartment for the hood pin wire, so I went out through the drivers door
area under the fender. Not my favorite choice of wire routing.
Remove drivers sill cover, then drivers kick panel.
Lower dash panel has a 10mm bolt on left side and a Phillips screw on right side, then pull panel off. Held on with clips.
Knee Air Bag on metal bracket held on with 4, 10mm bolts.
I just unbolted it and set it aside. CAREFULLY. I did NOT unplug it.
OBD connector is in this bracket for the TACH, HS CAN High&HS CAN Low.
Large Black wire near bottom of wiring panel is the 12 volt Constant.
Two Phillips screws on left and right side of steering wheel need to be removed to take lower steering wheel cover.
Will give access to Parking light & Autolight, TX/RX, and Ignition Connectors.
Parking Light and Autolight connector.
Ignition Harness. The Starter 2, Ignition 2, & Accessory wires are small gauge wires. Start 1 and Ignition 1 are Heavy Gauge.
TX & RX Connector. Connector is on pry tool and pry tool is pointing to where it plugs into.
The Tach, HS Can High and HS Can Low wires are located in the OBD Connector. Sorry. No Photo.
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Have you installed to that vehicle and found that it does monitor the factory hood pin?
here in the UK I find that DB-ALL2 doesn't do lots of things as posted on the label.
1) Mercedes Sprinter, hood switch monitored? European versions don't even have one!
2) Euro GM Vauxhall/Opel, we have to hard wire the parking brake.
3) Jeep Liberty, no tach, though again on the Euro diesel version it does.
Only experience tells us these things.
If Smokeman says he needed a hood pin, then I for one believe him.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Granted, the DB-ALL instructions show the connection for the hood pin but this vehicle was not equipped with one. I was merely stating that options are limited for a spot through the fire wall.
I almost prefer to install the tilt style of hood pin anyway.
Road crud less likely to cause a failure on them.
As well as the TACH signal, I choose to hard wire that one since a TACH wire was right at the OBD connector.
Like Howard said, some vehicles show the connection, but may not actually work.
Appreciate the look at it.
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I actually did install a dball2 into my 2008 Camry last week and it monitors the factory hood switch that's why I thought I'd mention it. Maybe mine being push to start makes the difference between it having a factory hood switch or not.
Could well be true. You're not wrong, just depends on who did the coding and when even the car dealership upgrading the software.
Did an E Series M4 BMW recently, DB-ALL not working too well, I asked the customer he told me that the dealer had had OBD problems and they upgraded some software, I re-flashed it with F Series software and voila worked perfectly.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
That bypass module produced Hood Pin signal ( D2D or W2W ) is usually not well documented in the install guides. The bypass module can only obtain that signal from the vehicle if the vehicle has a factory installed hood pin ( typically as part of the factory alarm system ). Ebnub's loaded PTS Camry has the factory hood pin, while Mr. Smokes, more plain LE model without factory alarm system did not.
The ones that really get me are the bypass module signals that are only available through D2D. Directed / XpressKit does this quite often. You have to pay close attention to the fine print and asterisks on the Features Chart page of the Install Guide.
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Soldering is fun!
smokeman1 wrote:
I could not find an access out to the engine compartment for the hood pin wire, so I went out through the drivers door
area under the fender. Not my favorite choice of wire routing.
I was about to resort to the fender as well... But there is a harness/grommet above the gas pedal which I used. It is hard to see, kind of high up and hidden by carpet. This was on a '13 but should be the same.
Any one remember the Mk. l LS Lexus back in 91?
About a 10" gap between twin bulkheads filled with sound absorbing pellets. You HAD to somehow get through those two grommets, actually most Toyotas and VW/Audi with right hand drive are nasty/fiddly; the grommet on the left hand side of engine bay always ends up flush behind the heater plenum.
Come to think of it most right hand drive versions are nasty!
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
I'll check that out next time I see that car. Appreciate the info on that. What is in that grommet or is it an empty one?
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It was a bundle of wires.