Tacoma 2010 and Viper 4706v

On my second remote start installation. This time, the 4706v and Tacoma 2010 standard key. I had everything hooked up. Remote start okay, one problem is remote start triggers the right signal. Is it some thing wrong. I am not so sure about the door either, it wont unlock the door.

what is your bypass module of choice? Also what do you mean triggers the right signal(turn signal?)

For door unlock, you need to set the viper for double pulse unlock.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I have DBALL2. Yes, the right signal came on when start the car with remote starter.

right turn signal

does it flash with starting the car normally?

Just to check the obvious, when you took the steering shroud off maybe you turned on the right signal by accident? If not, ensure the parking light wire is the correct one Green (-)@ headlight switch pin 18

also, the dball2 was an expensive module to use for immobilizer bypass only. The vehicle has nothing on the databus. In short terms you have to make analogue connections directly from the viper to the car.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

No flashing with starting normally. And the signal shut off the moment you put the key in, turn to on position and step on the brake.

Remove the fuse from the 4706. If the problem stops then you've gone to the wrong wire for lights.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Anyone with any pictures or way of telling me how to connect the door lock and unlock wire?

Go to the plugs in the driver kick panel and test in the normal way.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What would my test result be? How do I know which one is lock and which one is the unlock wire.

ground will register when you turn the key in the driver door.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay. Today I found that and made the connections. Is there any other connection that I have to make in order for the Toyota remote keyless to work for the door. Problem is when the car remote started, the door can't be unlock with the original keyless key.

I am not sure which wire from the viper connecting to which wire in the Tacoma.

Please help

Keys else adjacent to the ignition switch from one of your status output wires, dark blue or blue/white.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So far I have connected all the wire as shown in the diagram of DBALL-2 installation type 4

Howei, what do you meant by keys else. And do you mean connect this Keys else to a Viper Dark Blue wire

key sense. If you do not have a factory alarm, this wire is not necessary.
The factory remote does not work when the vehicle has started.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I've connected the key sense already. There is no factory remote besides the keyless entry, which I meant I can't use the factory key to lock and unlock the door remotely.

Why does the door unlock when I remote started. That made the starter to shut off after one minute. Please advise

Locking and unlocking the car by pressing the lock and unlock button of the car also doesn't register to my Viper

the doors will unlock if you wired your disarm wire to the unlock wire at the kick panel. the car will not communicate with viper no matter how you wire it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks for response. Is that disarm the cause for the car to stop after remote starting.

Does this also meant that the wiring image and info on this pic of the following site that's on this 12Volts is wrong?

https://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f367/offroadzj/Install%20Pictorials/2010%20Tacoma/010.jpg

no disarm just prevents the factory alarm from going off. If the remote starter shuts off, verify if you programmed tach, and also check the shutdown diagnostics. Usually shutdown is either from brake or lack of tach signals.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

okay got that. Fix the door problem. what can i do to fix the brake shut down. I have a combination flash starting with 5-flashes, then 6 flashes and 4 flashes

5 flashes - brake shutdown
6 flashes - hood shutdown
4 flashes -transmitter shutdown

The car started already, why would it shut down after one minute

No solution to the problem I've asked? No one replied?

what can i do to fix the brake shut down. I have a combination flash starting with 5-flashes, then 6 flashes and 4 flashes

remove one at a time to verify

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

What do you mean by remove? Do you mean remove the connection?

Yes to the first two.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay. Removed the pin hood, won't start. Also remove the brake shutdown input( + Brown wire from the Viper) won't start either.

Reconnecting having the same issue.

List what you've wired and to where please, have you programmed tach?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

should I change menu 3. Item 8 into starter 2?


Item 8 Flex Relay Function: Ignition2 Accessory 2 Starter 2

Hard to help you when you post lots of messages with minimal contents.
We still don't know whether you;ve sorted your lights problem from your first post.
Have you programmed tach yet?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No, leave it on ignition 2. That vehicle won't start without both ignitions connected.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I disconnect the Light Flash Isolation Wire (H4 WHITE/ Brown) and fixed the light problem

Here is my Connection:

Main Harness, 6 Pin Connector
H/1 Red (+)12VDC Constant Input-Connecting to a second 12VDC at key switch
H/2 Black (-)Chassis Ground This wire was grounded
H/3 Brown (-) 200mM HORN HONK OUTPUT No Used
H/4 WHITE/ Brown LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE-PIN 87a No Used
H/5 White PIN 30 OF LIGH FLASH RELAY No Used
H/6 ORANGE 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUT NO USED

DOOR LOCK, 3 PIN CONNECTOR
1 BLUE 50mA (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT CONNECT TO PURPLE AT KICK PANNEL TO UNLOCK THE DOOR
2 EMPTY NO USED
3 GREEN CONNECT TO GREEN/ BLACK AT KICK PANNEL TO LOCK THE DOOR

REMOTE START, 8 PIN CONNECTOR
1 RED / BLACK (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT CONNECT TO A FIRST 12VDC AT KEY SWITCH
2 PINK/BLACK(+) FLEX RELAY INPUT NO USED
3 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 CONNECTING TO ONE IGNITION WIRE AT KEY SWITCH
4 RED (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT FOR IGNITION 1 RELAY CONNECTING TO A FIRST 12VDC AT KEY SWITCH
5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT CONNECTING TO A STARTER WIRE AT KEY SWITCH
6 ORGANE (+) ACC. OUTPUT CONNECTING TO THE ACC. WIRE AT KEY SWITCH
7 RED / WHITE (+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT FOR IGNITON 2 CONNECTING TO A FIRST 12VDC AT KEY SWITCH
8 PINK (+)IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT CONNECTING TO AN IGNITION WIRE AT THE KEY SWITCH

24 PIN CONNECTOR

1. PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION 2/FLEX   NO USED
2. BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT NO USED
3. RED / WHITE   (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT NO USED
4. BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT NO USED
5. DARK BLUE   (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT NO USED
6. WHITE/ BLACK (-)200mA AUX3 OUTPUT NO USED
7. WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX1 OUTPUT NO USED
8. ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX4 OUTPUT NO USED
9. GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) CONNECT TO THE PROVIDED HOOD PIN AND ATTACH THE PIN UNDER THE HOOD
10. BLUE FACTORY HORN INPUT NO USED
11. WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT NO USED
12. VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT CONNECTING TO BLACK/ WHITE OF THE OBDII
13. BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY/PARKING BRAKE INPUT THIS WIRE WAS GROUNDED
14. GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT NO USED
15. GREEN. (-) DOOR INPUT CONNECTING TO GREEN / WHITE THE ALL DOOR TRIGGER WIRE AT THE BACK OF THE FUSE BOX 26 PIN CONNECTOR PIN 4
16. EMPTY NO USED
17. PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT NO USED
18. VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT NO USED
19. VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX2 OUTPUT NO USED
20. BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT CONNECT TO BLUE WIRE (+) AT THE FUSE BOX
21. VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT CONNECTING TO PIN 85 OF THE EXTERNAL RELAY
22. GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT NO USED
23. ORANGE (-) 200mA ACC. OUTPUT NO USED
24. 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT NO USED

FROM DBALL2
USING INTALLATION TYPE 4.

PIN 9 OF THE BLACK CONNECTOR CONNECTING TO AN IGNITION WIRE OF THE RS UNIT BEFORE CONNECTING TO THE IGNITION WIRE AT THE KEY SWITCH.

PIN 10 OF THE RED CONNECTOR (12 PIN CONNECTOR)TO THE TX PIN 5 OF THE 7 PIN CONNECTOR AT THE KEY SWITCH
PIN 11 OF THE RED CONNECTOR (12 PIN CONNECTOR)TO THE RX PIN 4 OF THE 7 PIN CONNECTOR AT THE KEY SWITCH

PIN 7 OF THE BLUE CONNECTOR (14 PIN CONNECTOR) TO GROUND
PIN 8 OF THE BLUE CONNECTOR (14 PIN CONNECTOR) TO THEY KEY SENSE

MY 30/40 AMP RELAY]
PIN 86 AND 87 JOIN AND CONNECT TO A 20 AMP FUSE, THEN TO A SECOND 12VDC AT THE KEY SWITCH

PIN 85 CONNECTING TO PIN 21 [VIOLET / YELLOW (-)200mA STARTER OUTPUT)] OF THE VIPER

PIN 30 CONNECT TO 2ND STARTER WIRE AT THE KEY SWITCH

A DIODE 1N4005 WAS USED ACROSS 86 AND 85 WITH THE STRIPE TOWARD PIN 86.

PIN 87A WAS NOT USED

TACH WAS PROGRAMMED SUCCESSFUL

Has anyone has time to check my connection? Is there any thing else that need to be connected to resolve the brake shutdown issue/remote starter stop after around 15 second - 1 minute?

are you actually testing your wires? like i said before if the shutdown shows brake input, temporarily disconnect it to see if it stays running.

verity in programming its not on voltage sense.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

cherxiong wrote:

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resolve the brake shutdown issue/remote starter stop after around 15 second - 1 minute?

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What do the Shutdown Diagnostics say are the cause of the shutdown?

DEI Remote Starters have a shutdown diagnostic. It will tell you what triggered the shutdown. Ie, where to look for the problem. "Shutdown" also includes "failure to start".

To enter shutdown diagnostic mode:

1. Turn the ignition off.
2. Press and hold the Program switch.
3. Turn the ignition on and then off.
4. Release the Program switch.
5. Press and release the Program switch.

The LED reports the last system shutdown by flashing for one minute in
the following grouped patterns and stops flashing when the ignition is
turned on.

Shutdown Flash Patterns:
1 System timed out
2 Over-rev shutdown
3 Low or no RPM, Low battery (for voltage & Virtual tach modes)
4 Remote control shutdown (or pulse on wht/blu wire)
5 (-) Hood shutdown [gry wire grounded]
6 (+) Brake shutdown [brown wire has 12V present]
7 Neutral safety [blk/wht wire NOT grounded]

Ted : are you actually testing your wires? like i said before if the shutdown shows brake input, temporarily disconnect it to see if it stays running.

verity in programming its not on voltage sense


I did, but I remove both the hoodpin, then the brake input. My car wont start after both of these wires are removed. I think it doesn't start because of the hoodpin was not there anymore when the brake input was removed.

I will try to just remove the brake input sometimes this week and leave the hoodpin on to see if it starts. If it does start and keep running when the brake input is removed, what would it be the solution to the problem?

One of the thing is: It fails only the first try. Remote start does start and keep running after the second or third try.



Davep: What do the Shutdown Diagnostics say are the cause of the shutdown?

I did the diagnostic test. It gave me a combination of flahes: 5 flashes, 6 flashes, then 4 flashes.

4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown
6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown

If it doesn't start first time around you need to check the second starter.

Also The viper will only attempt to restart in tach less. In tach mode the second it's running it'll stay running.
when you flashed the firmware djd you turn off all the unnecessary options ? I've seen bypass units report a fault on a trigger when there is no oem hood pin and brake status across the network. I understand the tl1 is for transponder only but using d2d might be your issue. Hardwire your dball (power ground and status)

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Thanks Ted.

The remote starter doesn't attempt to restart itself.

I'm the one that attempt to restart the remote myself the second time or third time after it fails to start/keep running the first time .

When the car is turned off after driving, it requires me to remote start a second time or third time again in order for it to start and running. The same cycle again.

I flashed the firmware when I haven't connect anything at all.

cherxiong wrote:

---

I did the diagnostic test. It gave me a combination of flahes: 5 flashes, 6 flashes, then 4 flashes.

4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown
6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown

---

For the DEI's I'm familiar with, the shutdown diagnostic only flashes the LAST shutdown.

R/S the vehicle with the remote.
If it shuts off by itself, wait until the dash lights turn off, then run the diagnostic. Don't turn off the ign with the remote (Code 4), or anything else. Just wait for it to time out.

You should see code 3 IF there is a tach or programming error.

IF you see code 1, AND the dash lights stay on for the entire run-time after the engine stops running, you have programmed "engine checking = OFF" and something isn't powered-up correctly that causes the engine to shut off. Like the electric fuel pump.

Thanks for all the information.

I will look into all the possible solutions.

Ted, Davep, and Howeii

Sorry. I haven't test/check any of the connection I made, because i have no time yet.

I have a quick question regarding my connection: When I change the menu 3 from option 1 (Virtual Tach)to option 4 (Tachometer) the car cranking when remote start, but not start and engine not running. It just shuts off right away after the cranking. Does this mean I wire the tach wire to a wrong connection? Is this why my vehicle has the problem with the first attempt remote start with the Virtual Tach mode?

The car only start with the Virtual Tach mode and still have issue with the first attempt.

Ted : If it doesn't start first time around you need to check the second starter.

And how do I check this option to see if there is a problem?

Tach. There should be a hardwire tach point at the OBD socket, pin 9.
If not a fuel injector, test:-
DMM set to 20VAC red probe to suspect wire and black probe to ground.
You should get a reading of 1.5 to 5 VAC. NOTE AC setting.

Have you tested to see if there's a second starter?
If yes wire up as follows:-A67_tac_2nd._starter.bmp

I have a feeling you're connecting up without actually testing and verifying anything.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did test for ACC, Ignition, Starter, and 12VDC and labeling them before making connection. Found 1 ACC, 2 Ign, 2 Starters, and 2 12VDC.

I did test the door lock and unlock for voltage change before connection.

The wires that I didn't test was the TACH wire at the OBDII, the key sense wire and the Brake wire. I know that I got the brake wire wired correctly because when the car start with remote, stepping on the brake shut down the car.

Your diagram for the relay is different from what I found in here. Again down here is how I connect my second starter with the relay. Does my connection makes any difference from your diagram. A lot of post on this 12Volts showed that the second starter should connect as what I did.

MY 30/40 AMP RELAY
PIN 86 AND 87 JOIN AND CONNECT TO A 20 AMP FUSE, THEN TO A SECOND 12VDC AT THE KEY SWITCH

PIN 85 CONNECTING TO PIN 21 [VIOLET / YELLOW (-)200mA STARTER OUTPUT)] OF THE VIPER

PIN 30 CONNECT TO 2ND STARTER WIRE AT THE KEY SWITCH

A DIODE 1N4005 WAS USED ACROSS 86 AND 85 WITH THE STRIPE TOWARD PIN 86.

PIN 87A WAS NOT USED

Learning tach is also has no problem, so that tach wire should have been correct too.

What worries me is that you appear to have done everything correctly.
BTW the diagram I posted is exactly the same as your last post except it was done before DEI changed their pin numbers last year. I'll correct it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What's the worry? The Viper, the DBall or the Operator error.

Don't know! Time to get out the test light check your ignition outputs and see what happens after 30 seconds, there's nothing short of foot brake being engaged or losing the ground at BLACK/ white on H2 to shut down the R/S after it has started.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Can you give me a direction on how to go about testing the ignition out put after the 30 second, the brake being engaged or losing the ground. What would the result be, if any of the conditions you mentioned is the problem.

You need to test the ignition one (pink) ignition 2 (pink/white) for retained POS and the BLACK/ white at H2 for constant NEG.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry for my amateur to the electornics world. What is POS?

POS = POSITIVE (12v+)
NEG = NEGATIVE (0v).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay..got it. so sorry

Come to think about it. If it's the ground or the ignition or the brake wires why would it start the second attempt. Making no sense. I will test it and reconnect the ground at least to make sure it's perfect grounding.

heres a simple test. start the car with the key, enter pit stop mode and remove the key. if it doesnt stay running you missed an ignition wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Good suggestion. Not much work. Will try that tonight and let you know the answer.

Thanks for the quick tip.

Pit stop mode does the same thing. The engine shut off after around 15 second.

I checked the tach wire, it was correct. Pin 9 (BLACK/ white) of tacoma was connected to the violet/white, tachometer input.

The brake wire also correct.

I will remove the steering column and check the ignition wires, starter wires, and ACC wire once more on Sunday.

Thanks for all the helps

Okay, everything is verified. Everything was wired correctly. I think the Parking light wire (H/5 white) from the viper gives me the problem. Disconnecting the parking light wire seems to solve the problem.



May be I need a relay for the parking light wire?

Forget about the parking light disconnecting. After a couple tries. The problem is back. Need a better solution.

You need to TEST everything.
Do you get a change from NEG to POS from the foot brake switched feed?
Do your pink and pink/white on H3 stay POS (12v+) on R/S for all the time?
Test the voltage between your ground point and all the fuses, should be around 12.3V+ before and during remote start.
Does the BLACK/ white on H2 stay grounded?
Change the remote start runtime to 24 minutes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You need to TEST everything.
Do you get a change from NEG to POS from the foot brake switched feed?
Checked

Do your pink and pink/white on H3 stay POS (12v+) on R/S for all the time?
checked

Test the voltage between your ground point and all the fuses, should be around 12.3V+ before and during remote start.
Not so sure about how to check this part

Does the BLACK/ white on H2 stay grounded?
Checked
Change the remote start runtime to 24 minutes.
haven't done this

Quote "Not so sure about how to check this part "
And that's what worries me about your whole test/troubleshoot procedure.
DMM, black probe to your grounding point,red to each fuse in turn scale set to 20VDC.
As my good friend Kreg says "test and verify everything".

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay. got it. Will test the fuses right now.

How did you connect your wires?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

tach at the OBD is black or BLACK/ white, and Pin 9 from the front side, not backside.

when you remove all possible shutdown inputs BRAKE AND HOOD, does it stay running? Also check your neutral safety BLACK/ white input and ground. Verify its at a factory ground in the kick panel. Alot of the subframes inside are floating frames and don't offer true ground.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

all the fuses checked. They all working

Tach wired is confirmed the correct one, Ted.

Grounding with a bolt where an original grounding wire of the Tacoma was.

What about removing all shutdown inputs? Check to see if the remotes have sticky buttons

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Remove the brakeshutdown wire, still have the problem shut down after 15 second. The second try, it stay running, pressing on the brake doesn't shut down when the brakeshutdown wire was removed.

Removing the hood pin wont start.

May be the timer mode like Howeii said?

Test to see if the hood pin wire is shorting anywhere and to forestall your next post, I mean red probe to constant 12V+, meter to 20VDC, black probe to hood wire and shake it about.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Removing the hood pin should not prevent it from starting. Something went wrong along your prep and install.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Hood pin was checked. 12 VDC +

Really Ted? Disconnect the hood pin should still be able to start?

Which is what I've been suggesting all along, Prolene #4 please nurse.
Can't help it Ted, watching 3 British and 2 US medical dramas every week.
How in heaven's name do you pull away the large intestine when you've just had lunch?
And I'm still waiting to hear about the type of connections made.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hood pin wire will read 12V+ pin wont read anything.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Did you test as I suggested before black probe to wire, red to 12V+? If so pull the H2 plug and see if that's still the case.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i would just depin the hood pin from the connector for testing purposes.

Howard:
Well you train yourself to become familiar with the environment. Give it 5 months and the fear diminishes. It's really all mental training. If you are enjoy medical drama shows, perhaps House M.D. Will entertain you.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Don't like house, prefer G. Anatomy.
There's a real throw up program on Sky over here, it will probably get to HBO soon called Critical set in a major trauma ops room, very stomach churning though.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I mean your Tacoma is probably one of the easier cars to do out there. high current ignition, ground, tach, locks, horn, hood pin, bypass and you're done.

Not much else to it. as mentioned your hood pin wire should only show ground when the hood is open.
Red probe to constant 12, black to hood pin wire. When the hood is open it'll show ground on your meter

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Will test again after lunch : ) my hairs are falling : )

Yea..should be easy. I got everything connect quick, if not that fail to start should be done in 3 hours already

I'm going with your brain is toast and you need a new one. I have never experienced a brain throwing MULTIPLE shut down errors - even when disconnected.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Yea. I think something's wrong with the R/S, too. I will just keep it with the second starting. Hope it last for at least a year or two.

Thanks for all the helps and trouble shooting. I am giving up. : )

The way, it's running is like the timer mode problem.

Never EVER had a DEI 4/5X brain failure. It's always an installation error.
Usually brain is fried because of an installation mistake.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I don't know Howeii,

Yea, I would think more likely it's me.

I tested the pin hood wire. My DMM doesn't have the 20VDC option like you mentioned. I turned it to 15VDC. I probed the red probe to the the hood pin wire, the black probe to ground. The reading was around 10-11 VDC only.

You mentioned about pulling the H2 plug. I am not sure which one are you talking about. Are you talking about the Chasis Ground?

The only thing left that I should do is re-flashing the DBALL2 with the
402.TL1 V3.20 (beta)firmware.

What i have in the DBALL2 right now is 402.TL1 V3.19 version.

The H2 plug and here I have to be slightly caustic and say look at your quick reference guide which comes in the box is the white 24 pin plug.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If you look at my connections on page 4. I didn't use that pin (H2) of the 24 pin connector. Plugging it out or not does it make any difference?

I did quote "9. GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) CONNECT TO THE PROVIDED HOOD PIN AND ATTACH THE PIN UNDER THE HOOD"

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay. If the H2 you mentioned is the pin hood then I did already. plug, unplug a few times already.

I should spray 70% IPA on the remote to see if there is any sticky button like Ted suggested

It's okay. I think it's time for some Marlboro, Howeii.

Thanks a lot for the time and the helps.

Actually I only smoke the long ones (100s) since Kent no longer available in Europe!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I don't smoke, but I will smoke any type with you because of all the helpings.

😆

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I thought some cigarettes has a size of 120s, not sure which one. I can use the black electrical tape left over after the remote car starter installation to tape two or three together for us. That should be long enough.

Ha ha

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.