Fried my Viper 5706v
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=138965
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 8:01 PM
Topic: Fried my Viper 5706v
Posted By: mechanicor
Subject: Fried my Viper 5706v
Date Posted: May 13, 2015 at 7:13 PM
So I have my project car which is a 89 BMW 750il I decided to put the Viper remote start system in it. I hooked the power wires, grounded the ground and neutral safety wire( mines an automatic), door locks and parking lights. Everything worked except the remote start. checked my connections seamed correct to me but no crank. Off to the internet I came across this website and found a topic about some one installing the same unit in an Acura I believe. So I rewired my the same way you told that person. Hit the remote start and Holy ----- it cranked over not enough to start but it did try. I adjusted the crank time and tried again it started. Yeah Thank you guys. tested brake switch and ignition switch all working good. started soldering wires together, connected door wire, tach wire, siren I was on a roll things were going good. tried to start again no go no anything no error no flashing lights nothing. Reset controller by unplugging and thru menu just in case. try again nothing but this time the lights flash eight times neutral wire not grounded checked wire still grounded. reset box and tried again same thing. Tore the wiring back apart. Did you know the door switch sends a negative signal when open, which I hooked up to the controller, and a positive signal when closed? I didn't. So give it to me straight Doc is it possible that positive pulse fired the negative circuit in the controller?
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 12:15 AM
No and that's normal for nearly all door switches so that hasn't fried it.
It wouldn't start because you have to discard the orange wire at H3, ACC and use IGN 2, pink/white at H3 and connect to the vehicle purple ACC wire.
wth has wiring a BMW to do with an Accord?
Join the BLACK/ white to your black grounding wire using a factory bolt.
Also is the silly switch with the black plug installed and turned on?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:34 AM
"wth has wiring a BMW to do with an Accord?" Absolutely nothing. I can't find the article now to reference but id did share some of the same things as mine, same controller and the same simple ignition switch( Off, Acc ,Ign, Crank). I assumed that the basic features of the ignition switch would be the same on all vehicles.
The orange wire at H3 was hooked up to purple ACC when the car started before I permanently connected the wires. I will follow your suggestion and change out the orange wire for the pink/white wire this evening.
The BLACK/ white and the black wire are both grounded to the same place as the factory wiring harness under the dash.
And yes the small switch is installed and working.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:40 AM
Err really? The 5 series has 3 X ignition circuits! (Light green) all needing separate relays to fire up.
Also program the unit for comfort close, should close windows and roof on arming.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:53 AM
I do realize the complexity of BMW wiring especially on the 7 series with a V12. I was only trying to explain my thought process. I never said it was a good thought process.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 6:00 AM
Not to worry, we'll try and get you through this.
The lock triggers are POS (+), you'll need a plug-in 451 module to change the polarity.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 4:24 PM
Okay so if you would allow I would like a do over I have a 89 750il that I'm putting a Viper 5706v remote start in
6-pin
1 Red 12v constant input-----Red battery lead to ignition switch
2 Black chassis ground--- Ground stud under dash
4 WHITE/ brown parking light isolation----light switch side of gray purple wire
5 White parking light output---- Two relays then one to car side of gray/purple and one to car side gray / YELLOW
3-Pin
1 blue 500ma unlock - output----relay then blue/brown with yellow dots
3 green 500ma - lock output--- relay then WHITE/ red with yellow dots both in drivers kick panel
24 pin
9 gray hood pin-- not connected yet and not grounded
13 BLACK/ white neutral safety--ground stud under dash
20 brown + brake shutdown---- blue/red at brake switch
10-pin
2 RED / black 12v accessory input--- red battery lead to ignition
5 red fused 12v ignition input--- same as 2 above
6 green starter input-- key side of BLACK / YELLOW
7 violet starter output-- car side of BLACK / YELLOW
8 orange accessory output--- purple wire at switch
9 RED / white fused 12v ignition2--- same as 2 and 5
10 pink ignition input/output--- green wire at switch
right now everything so far works, door locks lights remote start brake switch ignition
then hooked up
3 brown siren output( grounded other side of siren)
12 violet/white tachometer-- black wire at data port under hood
15 green - door input--- BROWN / white with dots in pillar next to drivers seat
no car wont remote start says neutral ground lights flash 8 times
undid the last three wires tried again nothing checked grounds and small switch still grounded/working nothing reset controller nothing everything works but the remote start
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 4:26 PM
Sorry forgot changed out orange wire with pink/white wire same results
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:04 PM
Did you program tach?
Did you program unit as auto?
Did you program for tach?
Other functions, lock and unlock?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:14 PM
first time programed trans mode to auto and turned engine checking off car started
seconded time trans mode auto engine checking to tachometer remote start not working 8 flashes on the parking lights
third time reset controller disconnected door input and tach wire trans mode to auto engine checking mode to off no remote start 8 flashes
"Other functions, lock and unlock?" do they still work yes did I change programing in menu no
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:20 PM
Go back and set it as virtual tach. If not you may need a thin black feeding the tach gauge on the instrument panel.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:45 PM
okay set as virtual tach no remote start 8 flashes
hooked up small black wire from gauge cluster set to look for tach signal no remote start
tired different combinations of virtual tach, tach, tach wire, orange wire to acc and pink/white wire to acc
double checked it was still on auto no remote start 8 flashes
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:49 PM
Did you program tach via the antenna/control centre?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:54 PM
I do not have a bitwriter or anything like that all I have is the two remotes( one with lcd screen) and the antenna with control button this is how I have been programing it so far
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 5:58 PM
Program tach:-
Start engine, within 10 seconds, press and hold button on antenna/control centre. After about 3 seconds the blue LED will come on, tach programmed.
You don't need a bitwriter on this vehicle, electrically it's very straight forward.
Try leaving key in the ignition, off position then try the remote.
Meanwhile it has gone midnight here and I'm off to sleep.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 6:39 PM
8 flashes is Neutral Safety Switch open.
The blk/wht wire isn't grounded. Or if you're using the switch, it is open.
Upon review, I see that you know this and have mentioned that "the switch and blk/wht wire is grounded / working". Unplug the H3 connector from the brain, and check the blk/wht wire for ground with your VOM.
8 flashes means "no neutral", and it won't do squat if the blk/wht isn't grounded. Concentrate your efforts on solving the "8 flashes" by fixing the ground for the blk/wht. Virtual Tach and engine checking comes after it cranks. It can't check to see if it's running if it doesn't even crank.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 6:49 PM
"Start engine, within 10 seconds, press and hold button on antenna/control centre. After about 3 seconds the blue LED will come on, tach programmed". Mine says within five seconds but yes I did this
"Try leaving key in the ignition, off position then try the remote." I've actually been doing this I got annoyed with turning the ignition on then off then pulling the key to use the remote that I just left the key in and took the remote off the chain
"Meanwhile it has gone midnight here and I'm off to sleep." sorry to be eating up all your free time I do appreciate the help
"8 flashes is Neutral Safety Switch open.
The blk/wht wire isn't grounded, or the switch is open" I have checked rechecked rerechecked and tomorrow after work I will check again because that is the same thing I was thinking but the wires are getting ground and the switch is working and I don't understand how I could have ground one minute and the lose it for no reason the grounds are the same place as the factory ground so I'm losing ground there then it should be affecting the hole car or at least the dash
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 6:56 PM
I have been using my power probe up to now it shows positive or negative voltage down to one decimal point. I thought this would work for what I'm doing but if you don't think it is accurate enough for this I will gladly dig out my VOM and use that. Having said that I did probe the controller at the connectors with the power probe and it did show ground and a signal to and from the neutral switch which cycled with the switch to show it was working
Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 6:58 PM
Does the little switch plug into the brain with its own little 2-pin plug? Or is it inline with the blk/wht wire?
If it has its own plug, You might try shorting the two pins together permanently by soldering them together. Eliminate the switch.
Same if it's inline, but again, check the blk/wht terminal in the H3 when unplugged from the brain with your VOM.
I've had conductors break inside the insulation when I stripped them, but it still worked for awhile after the initial installation. Then it didn't. These little wires are delicate.
Until the 8 flashes stop, it isn't going to crank. Keep looking, you'll find it.
Posted By: mechanicor
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 7:02 PM
the switch has its own black two pin connector it started raining here and the cars in the drive way so I will have to wait until after work tomorrow to check
Posted By: davep.
Date Posted: May 14, 2015 at 7:07 PM
Then you need to verify that the switch is closed. Check it when disconnected from the brain, again with your VOM. It rained here too today. Stay dry.
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