Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Install Wiring

Hello All,

I am glad I found this site and I hope I can learn a lot and eventually be able to help others. I have a basic knowledge of car audio installs and basic system electrical but no in depth experience with alarms, remote starters etc... This seems like a great forum and I am happy to be part of it.

I have taken on a pet project and the goal is to not only complete this correctly but also lean and understand as well. The project came about when my steering wheel lock & ignition cylinder failed. After 6 months I grew tired of hot wiring my 1999 BMW E39 (528i) and decide to price the parts. $300 - $500 was the average price with mostly used parts, I decided that I could add a passive keyless entry & push to start system for like $200 with the recommended bypass module to override my EWS key chip protection.

Well I am now in a pool of water that is mighty deep... I am not drowning yet but barely treading water. I have a few questions that might make it clear in my mind what is going on and allow me to figure this all out. Oh and part of the reason I am lost is because some companies don't give proper manuals or translate to English properly :S

Rather than bombard the post with all my issues I will just start off with where I am at now and why I am stuck and go from there. The car is as mentioned above, the keyless entry / push to start system is an Easygaurd EC002 which is a relatively inexpensive Chinese or Korean product but looks good but we will see once installed. I am using a DEI 556UW for my bypass module, which is apparently a common and easy to install product.

So I have installed the bypass module according to the instructions and all was good until the last wire. It is a blue wire and it is labeled as an input wire to connect to the (-) Status Output wire of my PKE/RS/PTS unit. The PKE/RS/PTS unit does not tell me what wire this is, or a least my instructions do not make this clear at all....

I want to ask:
1) What is this Status wire for and why do I need it
2) How do I test for / determine which wire on my push to start unit is the Status Output

Form what I can tell from reading, it seems this sends a signal to the bypass module while cranking to start, allowing it to override the EWS. Or else it tells it to turn off when the car is running... I have no idea what to search for and the products techs are not replying.

Any help, ideas, suggestions are really appreciated. Sorry for my long post. Figure I would just set the scene.

Thanks,

A few pointers.
First the 556; wire it EUROPEAN method as shown in the instructions, cut into the wires, no loop.
Second, the status wire this will be a wire from the push start that goes to ground on selecting ignition. If you show the push start wiring I can work something out for you.
Third this car has 3 light green ignition wires, you'll need 2 extra relays.
Fourth ACC from the push start needs to go directly to the radio head unit.
The ACC in the ignition loom is then wired via another (3rd.) relay as ignition, needs to be live during cranking.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

A few pointers.
First the 556; wire it EUROPEAN method as shown in the instructions, cut into the wires, no loop.
Second, the status wire this will be a wire from the push start that goes to ground on selecting ignition. If you show the push start wiring I can work something out for you.
Third this car has 3 light green ignition wires, you'll need 2 extra relays.
Fourth ACC from the push start needs to go directly to the radio head unit.
The ACC in the ignition loom is then wired via another (3rd.) relay as ignition, needs to be live during cranking.

Ok this is great to know. Sounds like you have worked on these before. I was afraid it would not be super simple. I will learn though. I don't know what to do with relays though. I am slo glad you picked up on the 3 green wires cause is the other issue I am dealing with. Apparently one of these is suppose to switch off during cranking and I'm not seeing that. The direct wiring to radio head unit seems strange but I do have a aftermarket unit, does this change anything?

I want do this so I will take any support and direction you can offer. I have installed the 556uw as per European install method, still without the blue I do not know if it is working.

Here is a link to a guys install notes that was sent to me, it is all the info I have. There are errors in these documents and weird naming of things due to translation.

https://s728.photobucket.com/user/taterps/library/Alarm%20Pics?sort=3&page=1

So in the meantime I should get some relays. I await your reply. Thanks,

Here are the pics:
posted_image

I also have a word document with some install notes I could send you via PM or regular email?

Thanks,

I've taken a look, you won't like what I have to say, BIN it!
I can tell by the instructions especially where it says connect to oil pressure switch that it's a POS. NO responsible manufacturer will use that method, they all use tach sensing. Simply said, it either won't work at all or will be extremely unreliable.
It will cost you more but there's a world class company in Canada called Compustar who I believe make something similar.
Or use a Viper R/S with an on off for the ignition.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

A "proper" system, the only shock is the sticker price:-
https://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah not what I wanted to hear at all. I was thinking the oil line was a reference to the fuel line a some sort of security. Well I am screwed now and cannot refund. I got no method to start my car besides hot wire. Even if I can get this working for a short term fix as I cannot get a new unit for a while. I was actually looking at the advanced as well. Should not have been so cheap. Just read so many good reviews on this cheap one.

What do I do man?

A bit cheaper but should be adequate for your vehicle without too many extra bits, relays etc.:-
https://www.advancedkeys.com/docs/AK-PSB06.pdf

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Start again a simple rule earned through bitter experience, if it says oil pressure as engine speed check, RUN!
The other lesson, you get what you pay for!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes, I get ya and have learned that lesson before. I am not using this to remote start but rather push start so I am not sure that tach sensing or oil pressure will really be a deal breaker, would you agree? I mentioned above that I my key cylinder and steering lock failed so I just figured I would eliminate those and do a push to start. If I am able to get the immobilizer to work and then get the push to start to simple start the car I will more thank happy. I cannot get a new system for a long time so the only hope of getting my car to run again it to rig something up.

I really appreciate your time and advice. Would you consider still helping me with this solution for now? Like if I can just get my immobilizer status code thing figured and then the 3 green power wires I might be ok?

I am a desperate man here...

Thanks

In all honesty I wouldn't go near this system. It's completely unsuited to your car.
For instance during start cycle ACC is also involved, no provision, 4 ign inc. ACC again, no provision.
Go to a tractor/truck store and buy an ignition switch, about $20 or visit a wrecker's yard.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah, OK.. Harsh but true as they would say. I did replace ingnition switch before thinking it was my problem but it was not. The actually steering wheel lock broke and jammed up the key cylinder and the cost of not only replacing them along with new keys and dealer programming fees.... gets high. I guess I am stuck with this for now. I just might have to disconnect it and proceed to ho twire car as required or get a switch as you say. I do have a switch though that came with my starter system. At least I can salvage that form the purchase no?

Going to take some time but I'm doing a diagram. NOTE no responsibility accepted!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Going to take some time but I'm doing a diagram. NOTE no responsibility accepted!

Awesome man. No responsibility on you whatsoever. I am grateful for any help in this situation.

Thanks,

Here you go:-
bmw_e39.png
posted_image

Note:-
The 4 relays are all the same, standard automotive, you can probably get the 5 pin type more easily, if so use them and ignore pin marked 87a.
I've set it up so you get keyless entry and comfort close although the inbuilt timer may not be long enough to close roof if present. Ground everything to a steering column bolt, 12mm spanner size.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Wow, this is amazing. I am going to need to wrap my head around this. I wanna make sure I know what I am doing before starting. You are a real problem and this was fast work. While I study this I can purchase 5 relays correct? 1 x 5 pin and 4 x 4 pin standard relays are whay I need?

No either 4 pin OR 5 pin it's just that 5 pins are more common but not needed here.
Any auto-parts store or wreckers yard, Jeep- Cherokee from the mid 90s are a great source (under-hood relay box)!!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

jayson wonder wrote:

Wow, this is amazing. I am going to need to wrap my head around this. I wanna make sure I know what I am doing before starting. You are a real problem and this was fast work. While I study this I can purchase 5 relays correct? 1 x 5 pin and 4 x 4 pin standard relays are whay I need?

I meant real professional not problem. Daym autocorrect... You are really helping me solve a huge problem.

So I just ordered the 5 relays needed. Looking at the best way to proceed. I think I understand most of what it going on in the diagram. I have a couple of questions to be safe...

Regarding the stereo head unit, what it the reason for this being involved?

The logic of the relay between bypass module and system? I will attach the pic to explain what I mean.

Thanks again for sure professional work.

Here is the question I had, thanks.
posted_image

Yes to both of your questions above.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just waiting on my relays to arrive so I can start this. I cannot get to the junkyard until the weekend so I ordered online. Sure hope it gets here before weekend.

Hey,

It took me 2 weeks to get my relays shipped. wow. I should have just went to the junk yard as you mentioned. Anyway. I am now going to start the wiring of relays, etc. I probably will not get as far as installing anything in the car tonight but hopefully tomorrow after work.

One additional question pertaining to the lovely diagram you gave me..... The purpose of cutting the ACC wire that connects to the radio/stereo and reconnecting in this way.. I just do not get the reason and result.

Thanks in advance mate!

It doesn't matter to be honest,just don't use the orange.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

It doesn't matter to be honest,just don't use the orange.

Hey Howie,

I do not want to be a pest but I am now a little confused. You say don't use the orange but in the diagram I see that it is the purble that is cut and it looks like it is connected to the orange.

Don't cut the purple it's already fed from the first main relay on the left.
Join orange as originally.
You need that factory purple to:-
a) Act as an ACC (the orange from the unit).
b) Be fed during the start cycle (1st. of the 4 main relays).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I managed to wire everything up as per the diagram. Unfortunately I am not yet tasting success but I sure am learning a lot thanks to you.

I am not sure what is wrong yet. It does not start so I started basic trouble shooting and noticed my battery voltage was down a bit since the car has been siting so I a thought I would charge it up more just as a precaution.

I am thinking maybe it is the bypass module 556u as the power seems to be getting where it should. It may be a bad relay. I am pretty much learning as I go so I am studying the diagram to find out what I should check / test. What kind of signals I should be looking for. If you have any thoughts being a pro please share with me and I will push through this.

Also I have to connect the brown to my clutch pedal control switch as it is a manual tranny and that had 3 wires, a brown, blue and violet. Brown is ground I think and since the starter module wire is brown I connected there. Again maybe a rookie move... What do you think

Didn't know there was a clutch switch back then, actually never seen a manual BMW in England!
See if it starts with out pushing the clutch down, if not get your meter out, ignition on, see what happens when you push the clutch down. If nothing, try with the starter engaged (crank) you're watching for a change in status on the blue and violet, either POS or NEG, another relay to emulate that.
Once sorted bad relays, more chance of winning the lottery!
Again with DMM, test the outputs from your PTS, then the inputs and outputs from your relays.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Didn't know there was a clutch switch back then, actually never seen a manual BMW in England!
See if it starts with out pushing the clutch down, if not get your meter out, ignition on, see what happens when you push the clutch down. If nothing, try with the starter engaged (crank) you're watching for a change in status on the blue and violet, either POS or NEG, another relay to emulate that.
Once sorted bad relays, more chance of winning the lottery!
Again with DMM, test the outputs from your PTS, then the inputs and outputs from your relays.

Yeah, won't start with clutch up or down. I will be testing the clutch blue and violet for status as you suggest. SO just to be clear, the brown module wire on the original diagram was going to brake. This still goes to clutch still correct and must I do a relay? Can you explain what or how to corectly wite this relay up and attach to the existing setup.

I am also thinking that an issue could exist between the EWS bypass and starter but not yet able to confirm.

Thanks, this is work..

Here is a bit of an update. Still trying to track down the issues. This it the diagram with the EWS and clutch added.
posted_image

My notes probably won't show up but here is where I am:

I am not getting power to my PTS module and start button does not light so there is an issue I am checking for now.

Orange ACC tied in to ACC ignition after the relay still seems to not make sense, I think redundant which is what you were trying to tell me earlier...

White has no power at all, I suspect as a result from PTS module not sending signal out

Clutch / brake wire may not be correct at clutch pedal switch harness. Still trying to figure out what the PTS module wants to see.

I am learning a lot so again thanks for your time. I will owe you several beers once I get this done.

I think the PTS module ends to see the bin!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

I think the PTS module ends to see the bin!

That's funny. In know you are serious too. I have no choice but to push on cause I cant even start car after 2 weeks. I will go test my connections once again.

I apologise for being cynical but I've seen these POS products before, warned people off but it has always had the same result.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

I apologise for being cynical but I've seen these POS products before, warned people off but it has always had the same result.

No need to apologize as I know you warned me from the start.

I have some progress and things are looking promising. I now have power at the PTS and recognizes key FOB and I have power at the start button. I am able to push once to turn on/off ACC. I cannot start the car though. I think that is related to clutch switch wiring.

When testing I cannot get power or signal at the white wire from PTS. Does it make sense to you that this wire only outputs when clutch / brake is pressed?

Your original diagram had the brown wire going to the brake. In the instructions it says should go to ON 1. Is this meaning that brown is looking for a 12V signal from the brake, in my case clutch? Can it get this signal from the clutch switch or should this brown go elsewhere?

It is so nice to see progress.

Brake only, out of interest cut the brown wire to the clutch switch, it might let you start without the clutch.
You should get power from the white.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Brake only, out of interest cut the brown wire to the clutch switch, it might let you start without the clutch.
You should get power from the white.

Ok, so more progress but not quite solved yet.

I tested the clutch wire harness and found the following:
Brown = Ground
Blue = 12V when clutch pedal pressed
Violet = 12V when clutch not pressed & ACC ON

SO I have connected the Brown wire from PTS to the blue wire.

When I press again to turn to Ignition ON or try to start everything seems short out. Have not blown a fuse or anything but start button turns off and kinda resets.

Still nothing at white. Getting closer to the end I feel.

Oh and when I press in the clutch it cuts out / shorts also.

Take a jumper from your constant to the 3 X lt. green ignitions ACC and red on the 556U. Ground the blue on the 556U.
Your instrument lights should come on.
Then feed from constant to starter wire for about 1 second.
If engine fires your wiring is OK.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Or even easier, take a feed from the constant to the white from your PTS, then to the start for 1 second.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Or even easier, take a feed from the constant to the white from your PTS, then to the start for 1 second.

Sounds great. As soon as I can finish work I will be testing this. Let's hope for sucess.

It's the clutch switch that was doing the damage, that brown is a GROUND.
You need to feed 12V+ to the blue when starting.
If you join the violet to the blue, it should start without depressing the clutch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

It's the clutch switch that was doing the damage, that brown is a GROUND.
You need to feed 12V+ to the blue when starting.
If you join the violet to the blue, it should start without depressing the clutch.

Oh, well that is unexpected. This is good to know. Not sure why I thought it needed 12V

howie ll wrote:

Or even easier, take a feed from the constant to the white from your PTS, then to the start for 1 second.

Nope, this does not work even with brown disconnect, so clearly my wiring is wrong. Before taking it all apart and starting again with what I have learned I did some additional testing with things hooked up as is.

White & Brown have .3 - .4 volts running through when system is on ACC.

White has 12V when always on when disconnected from relays

Brown has .3 - .4 volts when disconnected from clutch.

Install Wiring - Status Output Wire & Hello