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remote start relay for 1967 pontiac firebir

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=139177
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 10:52 PM


Topic: remote start relay for 1967 pontiac firebir

Posted By: crash17
Subject: remote start relay for 1967 pontiac firebir
Date Posted: July 08, 2015 at 4:19 PM

hello I have a 1967 Pontiac firebird with a viper 7756V alarm system that giving me fits. I have multiple problems with this install and I am trying to solve one problem at a time. other problems will be posted later after this problem is fixed. I am somewhat mechanically cline I have installed an E-Z wiring harness in my firebird. What I want to accomplish is install a relay on the remote start option. I have tried to install this relay several times and I cant get it right. Can someone please be specific on which relay spade I need to connect each wire. for example
85
86
87
87A
30
please be specific I am a firefighter and if I could read or write I would have been a police officer. In closing I have included several pictures and diagrams from the viper instruction which by the way are horrible and they don't include a wire schematic. posted_image



Replies:

Posted By: crash17
Date Posted: July 08, 2015 at 4:23 PM
here is another picture of my viper alarm system posted_image




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: July 08, 2015 at 10:01 PM

Not positive of your question.  You shouldn't need any extra relays for the ignition wires.  Here is a chart :

Viper Remote Start 10 Pin Harness      1967 Firebird
1     NC
2     RED / Black               +12V constant ( Bat )
3     Pink/Black               Not Used
4     Pink/White              IGN SW Coil
5     Red           +12V constant ( Bat )
6     Green        Switch side of cut IGN SW Start Purple Starter wire
7     Violet         Car side of cut IGN SW Start Purple Starter wire
8     Orange                   IGN SW ACC Orange
9     RED / White             +12V constant ( Bat )
10   Pink           IGN SW IGN

The two Ignition wires should not be combined.

There are some other important Viper wires and programming options necessary for the R/S to work.  Might be best to list all your present connections.

Did you upgrade to a F.I. engine?  Remote starting a carburetor engine is tricky.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 09, 2015 at 4:53 AM
You'll need a solenoid on the throttle linkage to make it work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: crash17
Date Posted: July 09, 2015 at 8:46 AM
thanks platinum for the reply. To answer some of your questions I do have a carbureted engine I know it might be tricky to work especially when I first start the car but when the car is warm it cranks right up. I figured I paid for this thing and try to use as many options as I can.

Second I was told that I needed a relay going between R/F box and the ignition. so I tried to connect a relay but the car would start when the key was in the on position and not start position and when the key was switched to accessory the car would start. this is why I came to this site to expert help on this LOL   So I can connect the wires from the R/F box directly to my ignition wires.

third he wiring diagram is from EZ wire harness kit that I installed. the wiring diagram is from that kit and it started and shut off fine I am guessing why I am having problems.
in closing I have included a picture of the back of my ignition switch. thanks again.   posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 09, 2015 at 9:02 AM
Er starting from warm, guess what. That defeats the object of a remote start.
Forget the relay and follow Kreg's instructions.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: eighttrack
Date Posted: July 10, 2015 at 10:11 AM
If you switch to a carb with auto-choke you could make use of the start when cold. My dad has an auto-choke on his 67 mustang (no Remote start) but it really does work quite well. The choke cable in the cab is "for looks" :P

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-8track




Posted By: crash17
Date Posted: July 10, 2015 at 3:32 PM
thanks for your help gentleman. I will try to work on this problem this weekend. As I stated earlier I have several other problems with this viper alarm.
First. I have a electric remote trunk button located in my glove box of my firebird. I hooked up the RED / white remote trunk option wire from the R/C to the control latch wire. but when I press the viper alarm remote for the alarm to open the trunk the remote says trunk is open but the latch is not released. I still can open my trunk via the remote button located in the glove box of my firebird. I tried to use a testlight to see if I get voltage coming out of the RED / white wire from the R/C box but when I hit the trunk button on the viper remote I don't get any intermittent voltage. I know I have this RED / white wire connected directly to the latch motor in the trunk.

second when I arm the car the LED on the control box on my dashboard is solid blue but when I disarm the remote it goes out like it suppose to. what I like is when the alarm is armed the blue LED to FLASH on/off continuously while armed and then when I disarm the alarm system for the LED not lit.

third I want the parking light to flash I hooked up the white wire from the 6 pin main harness but when I arm the car the car parking lights don't flash I don't have a relay on this circuit it just goes from the fuse block to the lights. in closing other than the problems listed above this has been an easy install LOL




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 10, 2015 at 3:53 PM
Trunk release try this.
Test is there a constant 12V+ or NEG (ground) on one side of the switch.
If ground attach the RED / white to the other side.
If 12V+ wire as follows.
5 pin standard Bosch type relay;
Cut output wire.
Switch side to 87a.
RED / white to 85.
!12V+ constant fused at 15 amps to 86 and 87.
Other side of cut wire to 30.
Diode 1N4004 across the coil, band side to 86.
Second your unit is in valet mode hence the constant blue light.
Take it out of valet mode you will get arming chirp and lights.
If the lights don't work, there's a fuse in the unit casing, make sure it's in POS (+) mode. If not try NEG (-).
See referral paperwork that comes in the box.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: crash17
Date Posted: July 12, 2015 at 4:56 PM
well had a pretty good weekend. Howie II thanks for your help I did some research and my alarm system didn't come with instructions I downloaded and printed a 64 page instruction manual for a viper model 5101. I could not find any instructional book for my viper 7756V if you know where I can go and get these that would be great I tried viper website with no avail. I did get the parking lights to work, second I looked up the steps to take it our of valet mode but its still doing the same thing when its armed the light stays solid then when I disarm it goes off. I did try to get out of valet mode via the remote I will try getting out of valet mode via the ignition route. As for the trunk issue still does not work I did find on this website how to solder a diode across a relay with the band of the diode close to 86 and the other end of the diode to 85 of the relay. I drew a wire diagram of the remote trunk wiring for my firebird I hope this helps and I hope you all had a nice weekend. posted_image




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 12, 2015 at 5:07 PM
You've probably burnt out the trunk release circuit on the Viper, those old units had no protection.
That's the problem when jumping in without knowing what you're doing.
Wire up the relay as I explained then connect terminal 85 to ground, if the trunk opens that will prove whether I was right about the circuit being burnt out.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: crash17
Date Posted: July 13, 2015 at 8:13 PM
Hey Howie I think the circuit is still good. im thinking positive LOL. I a little confused about the last post so please forgive me if I misconstrued your last post.

FIRST if you refer to my picture when you say cut the output wire. are saying cut the continuous hot wire from the fuse box to the switch OR cut the wire from the switch to the relay.

second are we still using the diode relay set up if yes I have the diode the band side going toward 86 and the other side of the diode to 85. Im assuming we are using this same relay setup.

third when you say ground the 85 wire are you referring wiring the 85 wire to the RED / white wire coming from the R/C box OR grounding the 85 wire to a chassis ground or connecting the 85 wire RED / white to the R/C box and connecting to a chassis ground.   

Forth 87A going to switch im guessing to push button switch

FIFTH 86 and 87 to a continuous 12 volt hot on fuse block

SIXTH 30 going to trunk release motor in the trunk

thanks




Trunk release try this.
Test is there a constant 12V+ or NEG (ground) on one side of the switch.
If ground attach the RED / white to the other side.
If 12V+ wire as follows.
5 pin standard Bosch type relay;
Cut output wire.
Switch side to 87a.
RED / white to 85.
!12V+ constant fused at 15 amps to 86 and 87.
Other side of cut wire to 30.
Diode 1N4004 across the coil, band side to 86.
Second your unit is in valet mode hence the constant blue light.
Take it out of valet mode you will get arming chirp and lights.
If the lights don't work, there's a fuse in the unit casing, make sure it's in POS (+) mode. If not try NEG (-).
See referral paperwork that comes in the box




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 14, 2015 at 1:10 AM
From switch to relay, disconnect the RED / white from 85 and ground 85, that tells you if the relay set up is working.
Second you could test the output of the RED / white it should go to ground after pressing and HOLDING the trunk release switch for 2 seconds.
Yes to all else.
Interesting post this one.
Car where R/S might be impossible to achieve.
Owner unable to understand.
Old unit from 10 years ago.
Nice lesson in Zen, the art of patience.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.





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