I just bought this remote start system. I decided to go with the single button remote because the cars keyless entry system is built onto the ignition key. I'm trying to install this on my car by myself to save money and learn more about the car as well as the remote start electrical system. You guys at the12volt helped me on my 05 Silverado remote start install and it went completely smoothly. Any help on nesesarry modules or wiring needed to hook this up would help greatly.
You will need a DB-ALL2 flashed for your specific vehicle and CLOSELY follow the DB-ALL2 instructions.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
There are some limitations you should be aware of with a one button system.
A one button R/S system is nice but the Honda RKE system is disabled by the vehicle while the engine is running. Your 4203V system
can unlock the doors during this R/S engine run period but locking the doors will be a challenge. The interior door lock button won't work
either so PitStop Mode could be an issue, unless you don't mind leaving the car unlocked. A standard 4 button R/S system does not suffer
these limitations.
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Soldering is fun!
kreg357 wrote:
There are some limitations you should be aware of with a one button system.
A one button R/S system is nice but the Honda RKE system is disabled by the vehicle while the engine is running. Your 4203V system
can unlock the doors during this R/S engine run period but locking the doors will be a challenge. The interior door lock button won't work
either so PitStop Mode could be an issue, unless you don't mind leaving the car unlocked. A standard 4 button R/S system does not suffer
these limitations.
I have a 2013 Civic and bought the Responder One 4203V while back. I also bought the iDatalink AL-CA and planning to connect it using the D2D.
Does the 4203V disarms the factory alarm and unlocks the door prior to remote start even with iDatalink AL-CA ?
I need some help with two wires H1/3 and H1/4.
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
H1/3 YELLOW (+) IGNITION OUT (TO ALARM)
As a stand-alone system: The H1/3 YELLOW wire should not be connected to anything.
As an add-on car starter: If connected, disconnect the ignition/accessory input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system.
Connect the H1/3 YELLOW ignition output to the ignition/accessory
input of the remote controlled security or keyless entry system. The wire will prevent the host system from sensing that the ignition is on during remote start operation.
H1/4 WHITE/ BLUE (-) ACTIVATION INPUT
This input comes from the factory set to 1 activation pulse. This means that it is necessary to have 1 ground pulse on the WHITE/ blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate manually. The same holds true for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate. Note: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses when changed it will affect activation inputs; the WHITE/ Blue wire and the remote control activation.
https://www.acsdistributors.com/uploads/techinfo/viper/manuals/Responder%20One%20Install.pdf
Thanks
Waid
I am not a big DEI user and am not sure of the capabilities of the Responder One 4203V system in respect to the DBI D2D port.
Assuming it is a fully functional 2 way port, you should be OK to go in D2D mode with the bypass module if and only if the
ADS AL-CA is flashed with the correct firmware. In your case, you need DBI-AL(DL)-HA3 firmware. I believe the ADS AL-CA
leaves the factory with ADS AL(DL)-CH4 firmware as marked on the white sticker on the box. You will follow the Type 2
wiring diagram in the DBI AL(DL)-HA3 guide #32177. All of the Red dashed lines are made by the DBI D2D harness. Only the
solid Black lines are hardwired. Be aware that the diagram does not show all of the necessary Viper wires, only the wires
related to the bypass module. Viper wires like all the ignition wires, the Parking Lights, Horn and Chassis Ground must still
be run. Additionally, the Hood Status will not be supplied by the bypass module if the Civic does not have a Factory Hood Pin.
Of the two wires you mention, neither are needed or used in your application.
As per the ADS AL-CA feature chart and wiring, the Vipers Disarm output is sent to the bypass module and disarms the Civics
factory alarm system. There is a disarm pulse prior to a remote start. If this does not turn off the factory alarm, you can
program the bypass module to "Unlock before and lock after" in the Advanced Programming section, assuming you have the ADS USB
cable.
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Soldering is fun!
kreg357 wrote:
As per the ADS AL-CA feature chart and wiring, the Vipers Disarm output is sent to the bypass module and disarms the Civics
factory alarm system. There is a disarm pulse prior to a remote start. If this does not turn off the factory alarm, you can
program the bypass module to "Unlock before and lock after" in the Advanced Programming section, assuming you have the ADS USB
cable.
Thank you Kreg for your reply.
I have the USB cable since I am doing multiple cars and already did old Accord. I already flashed the ADS AL-CA with correct firmware for the 2013 Civic but I did not explore the customization that it offers.
You said above that Vipers Disarm output is sent to the bypass module and disarms the Civic's factory alarm system. This is done though the DBI D2D port. Correct ?
I still need to connect H1/1 (LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM) go to Civic's Factory Alarm Disarm Brown (-). Correct?
This is located in (driver door key unlock) - (driver kick, door harness, blue 23 pin plug, pin 9)
https://ampire.zendesk.com/hc/de/article_attachments/200920362/Civic_2013_DEI.pdf
