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Crimestopper replacement brain?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=140755
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 11:14 PM


Topic: Crimestopper replacement brain?

Posted By: 039C3
Subject: Crimestopper replacement brain?
Date Posted: January 30, 2016 at 4:25 PM

Is it possible to buy a replacement brain for a Crimestopper system (Fortress FS-89)? I was emailing their tech support and they seem to have disappeared after answering one of several questions I asked. I have some bugs (see below) that appear to be due to a central unit malfunction, so I'd like to see if I can get a replacement brain vs rewiring another system.

Bugs:
1) Hood pin not recognized. Checked wire for short, OK. Checked hood pin wire @ 18 pin system connector & pin switch, grounded when hood is open as it should, non-grounded when hood closed. One leg of the thermister attaches to this wire.
2) Interior temperature: Display reads "NO" no matter what the temperature is. Tested thermister & got varied readings when I heated it, appears to be working properly.
3) Remote start inoperable (manual trans mode): I get 7 LED flashes indicating a manual trans error no matter what reservation system I try (three options). When I try auto trans mode, the starter bumps and the ignition shuts off. Tach signal from coil (-) side is recognized per the manual when I used learning mode.

I have checked all the fuses and they are good. The system had an intermittent ground problem I found. I think this may have damaged the brain so I'd like to find a replacement if possible.

Thanks for any advice.



Replies:

Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 01, 2016 at 8:20 AM
I can now answer my own question: They no longer make the FS-89, so replacement parts are made from unobtanium. posted_image




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 12:35 AM
The brain still recognize the remote and only the inputs you're having issues with?
I know a store in Chicago that used to sell this Or similar RS for $130 brand new, trying to get rid of them. I am not sure if it's still in stock. I have bought it from them and it's on my car. To be honest - I hate it!
I can try to find their phone # tomorrow if you're interested. Or consider repairing the brain. Post pics of the PCB and mark the problematic inputs.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 6:56 AM
dosoft wrote:

The brain still recognize the remote and only the inputs you're having issues with?
I know a store in Chicago that used to sell this Or similar RS for $130 brand new, trying to get rid of them. I am not sure if it's still in stock. I have bought it from them and it's on my car. To be honest - I hate it!
I can try to find their phone # tomorrow if you're interested. Or consider repairing the brain. Post pics of the PCB and mark the problematic inputs.

Thanks, but I've already put the car back together. I've decided to live & let live since the system does most of what I need it to do. I rarely use a remote start, and the interior temperature was not vital. I can remotely read the volts, lock & unlock the doors and open the hatch, so for the $105 I have invested in it. I've decided if/when it fails further I'll buy an Arctic Start Edge 2X that uses the Compustar FT-7000AS.

AFAIK, the FS series of touchscreens is different than the RS series that is still sold.




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:08 AM
By RS I mean Remote Start and not RS-series. I was talking about the Crimestopper/Fortress FS-XX series. Anyway, I am glad the functionality of that touch-screen and the "lock reminder" doesn't bother you as much as it does me! Good luck!




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 3:52 PM
I forgot I can still access the brain since the radio is not in yet. I took a couple pictures of the board, and noted the hood pin connector on the underside- it's not visible from the top. If I can buy a replacement board/unit I'd be interested in doing so. I will upload the pictures:
posted_image
posted_image




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 5:08 PM
posted_image

Could you, please, post what is the markings on the chip in the red circle? I am not able to read it from your picture. I am almost sure it's a multiplexer and if that's what it is, you need to replace it and the repair will cost you $2.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 6:51 PM
The markings are NXP sideways, then:
HEF4052BT
L8D6D004
UnG08356

I Googled the top character and see Mouser.com carries a HEF4052BT,653 for 52 cents.

Thanks for your help. That repair is not something I can do but I may be able to find someone in the area that can do it.




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 7:42 PM
That's exactly what I expected that chip to be. Multiplexer. That's the problem of your RS with 90% certainty.You can order from Mouser, DigiKey or even Ebay. It's easy to replace too. You can watch videos of how to on YouTube or I can explain. You only need a soldering iron with precision tip and solder. No need to desolder the old part. Just cut off the pins one by one as close as possible to the plastic body of the chip with a precision wire cutter or even nail cutter like the one on the picture. posted_image




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 8:10 PM
Also when you order the chip, make sure is in SO16 package.
I would suggest, before you order, try to resolder that chip and the bigger square one on the right, using only flux and soldering iron. Or you can heat up the PCB from underneath with heat gun. Just under that same chip. Hold the pcb flat,so the tiny parts don't fell of when the solder melt. Don't blow on the part's side since you will blow them away or overheat them. On the top side, where the parts are you shouldn't get more than 200 degree Celsius (approximately 400 Fahrenheit ). When the solder joints become shiny is the time to stop heating them up any more. At this point hold the PCB stable, don't shake it to prevent the parts from moving until the solder cool down. Keep the the hot gun at least an inch away from the PCB at all times.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 9:38 PM
My soldering skills are not good enough to attempt that. I would rather find a shop or person that could do so. I'll check out some electronics repair places and see if they can do it for a reasonable amount. Would it be worthwhile to replace the other SMD chips while I'm doing this?




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 9:48 PM
No. No need to replace the rest of the chips. The big square one you can't replace, because it contains the firmware of the RS. The one on the left is a relay driver, which is cheap, but since you only have issues with the inputs makes no sense to bother with it. I hope you will find someone to do the replacement. I would have done it for free. It will take 5 min to someone skilled.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 9:54 PM
dosoft wrote:

No. No need to replace the rest of the chips. The big square one you can't replace, because it contains the firmware of the RS. The one on the left is a relay driver, which is cheap, but since you only have issues with the inputs makes no sense to bother with it. I hope you will find someone to do the replacement. I would have done it for free. It will take 5 min to someone skilled.

Thanks again for your help. If I cannot find a shop locally, I'll be glad to send it to you & PayPal you some $ to cover your time & expenses. I'll let you know.




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:06 PM
I would do it for free. I should even have those 4052BT . They fail in the Mercedes light control modules and I bought some to have.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:19 PM
Would this work? It does not say it is SO-16 like the Mouser listing does, it says TSSOP. I can probably get these faster than from Mouser.
Phillips HEF4052BT




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:21 PM
Let me try that link again:
Phillips HEF4052BT




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:24 PM
It looks like ebay links are blocked. It is item #252232497063

PHILIPS HEF4052BT 16-Pin TSSOP 4-Channel Multiplexer New Lot Quantity-25




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 10:36 PM
I see Mouser segregates them by SO-16 and TSSOP, so I'll presume the ebay ones won't work. I see Mouser has 2 variations in stock:
4052BT,653:Multiplexer Switch ICs DUAL 4-CHANNEL
4052BT,Q100: Multiplexer Switch ICs Dual 4-Channel Analog Multiplexer

They also list two models on order:
4052BT,652: Multiplexer Switch ICs Dual 4-Channel Analog Multiplexer
4052BT,013: Multiplexer Switch ICs Dual 4channel analog multiplxr/demultplxr




Posted By: dosoft
Date Posted: February 02, 2016 at 11:51 PM
The Ebay item is the correct one and it's $6 with fast and free shipping. You can purchase it.
https://pages./link/?nav=item.view&id=252232497063&alt=web

The package is called TSSOP




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 03, 2016 at 8:17 AM
I have sent you a private message since I cannot find a local shop to make this repair.




Posted By: 039C3
Date Posted: February 11, 2016 at 12:43 PM
Update: dosoft fixed it for me! It was a bad diode. Just reinstalled it and it works as it should.
posted_image





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