Confirmation of Viper 5906v wiring

Hi everyone, I've been a long time lurker, mostly on the audio related sections and have managed to find the answers in the forums but I've found so much conflicting information and subsequent horror stories of incorrect connection.

I'm looking for someone to check over my interpretation of the connections from/to the Viper 5906v, I've done a lot of work on the car side wiring and am pretty confident I've got that down.

The car is a 1992 Toyota Celica st185

H1 Main Harness 6 pin connector

1. Red (+)12v Constant input - 12v 30a Fused constant battery live
2. Black (-) Chassis ground - Ground
3. Brown (+) Siren output - Live to siren
4. WHITE/ brown Parking light isolate - Not required
5. White Parking light output - (+)12v output to headlight for visual arm/disarm
6. Orange (-)500mA ground when armed - Not required

H2 Auxiliary harness 24 pin

1. Pink/white (-)200mA Igntition 2/Flex output - Only required if using onboard flex relay
2. Blue/white (-)200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output - Negative switch output for rear screen defogger (relay control)
3. RED / white (-)Trunk release output - Negative switch output for boot release solenoid (relay control)
4. BLACK / YELLOW (-)Dome light output - Negative switch output for interior light (relay control)
5. Dark blue (-)200mA Status output - Negative output during remote start for immobiliser bypass
6. WHITE/ black (-)200mA Aux 3 output - Negative output for control of external device/module on Aux 3 channel
7. WHITE/ violet (-)200mA Aux 1 output - As Aux 3 for Aux 1
8. ORANGE / black (-)200mA Aux 4 output - As Aux 3 for Aux 4
9. Gray (-)Hood pin input - As described
10. Blue (-)Trunk pin input - As described
11. WHITE/ blue (-)Activation input - When grounded initiates remote start
12. Violet/white Tachometer input - Tacho signal input from ignition
13. BLACK/ white (-)Neutral safety/Parking brake input - Wire to handbrake switch (grounded when applied)
14. GREEN/ black (-)200mA Factory alarm disarm output - As described
15. Green (-)Door input - As described
16. BROWN / black (-)Horn honk output - As described
17. Pink (-)200mA Ignition 1 output - Grounds when ignition key is in ignition 1 position if required
18. Violet (+)Door input - As described
19. Violet/black (-)200mA Aux 2 output - As Aux 3 for Aux 2
20. Brown (+)Brake shutdown input - Wired to positive output from brake pedal switch to brake lights (live when brake pedal pressed)
21. Violet / YELLOW (-)200mA Starter output - Grounds during starter operation if required
22. Gray/black (-)Diesel wait to start input - Connect to glow plug dash light negative if required
23. Orange (-)200mA Accessory output - Grounds when ignition is in the accessory position
24. GREEN / WHITE (-)200mA Factory alarm disarm output - As described

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness

1. NC - No connection
2. RED / black (+)Fused 12v Accessory/Starter input - 30a Fused constant live
3. Pink/black (+)Flex relay input (87a) key side if required of flex relay - Live supply to onboard flex relay if required (some information I've found states this should be wired anyway?)
4. Pink/white (+)Igntition 2/Flex relay output - Live output from flex relay (30) to Ignition 2 or other device (programmable) if required
5. Red (+)Fused ignition 1 input - 12v 30a Fused constant battery (+)
6. Green (+)Starter input (key side of starter kill) - Cut starter supply from ignition barrel to starter, connect to key side
7. Violet (+)Starter output (starter side of starter kill) - Connect to starter side of above wire
8. Orange (+)Accessory output - Splice into accessory (+) at ignition barrel
9. RED / white (+)Fused 12v ignition 2/flex relay input - 12v 30a Fused supply only required if ignition 2 is present/onboard flex relay is required or should this be connected in all cases?
10. Pink (+)Ignition 1 input/output - Splice into ignition 1 (+) at ignition barrel

Sorry for such a long winded first post but as it's a daily driver I'm being a little over cautious to minimise downtime.

Thanks in advance for any help

Carl

Well, you listed the descriptions of the wires very well, but no indication of which ones you are going to use or not use, or the corresponding vehicle wires so I can't comment on that.

You have 2 wires with "?" after them.

H3/3 Who says it should be wired anyway and to where?

H3/9 Not connected in all cases, but needed for your vehicle. You have 2 ign wires. H3/10 -> Ign 1 H3/4 flex output -> Ign 2 Should be default programmed to ign 2 so You don't even have to change anything.

Thanks for the quick reply mscguy.

My mistake on H3/9, I wasn't aware of the Ignition 2 wire, I've now updated with my intended wiring including car side.

H1 Main Harness 6 pin connector

1. Red (+)12v Constant input - 12v 30a Fused constant battery live - Spliced into White at ignition harness
2. Black (-) Chassis ground - Ground - Chassis ground
3. Brown (+) Siren output - Live to siren
4. WHITE/ brown Parking light isolate - Not needed
5. White Parking light output - (+)12v output to headlight for visual arm/disarm - RED / yellow at steering column harness
6. Orange (-)500mA ground when armed - Not using

H2 Auxiliary harness 24 pin

1. Pink/white (-)200mA Igntition 2/Flex output - Not using
2. Blue/white (-)200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output - Negative switch output for rear screen defogger (relay control)
3. RED / white (-)Trunk release output - Negative switch output for boot release solenoid (relay control)
4. BLACK / YELLOW (-)Dome light output - Negative switch output for interior light (relay control)
5. Dark blue (-)200mA Status output - Not using
6. WHITE/ black (-)200mA Aux 3 output - Not using at present
7. WHITE/ violet (-)200mA Aux 1 output - Not using at present
8. ORANGE / black (-)200mA Aux 4 output - Not using at present
9. Gray (-)Hood pin input - As described
10. Blue (-)Trunk pin input - Not needed as trunk pin is wired to door courtesy light circuit
11. WHITE/ blue (-)Activation input - When grounded initiates remote start, not using at present
12. Violet/white Tachometer input - Tacho signal input from ignition
13. BLACK/ white (-)Neutral safety/Parking brake input - Wire to handbrake switch (grounded when applied)
14. GREEN/ black (-)200mA Factory alarm disarm output - Not needed
15. Green (-)Door input - RED / white drivers kick panel
16. BROWN / black (-)Horn honk output - Not using
17. Pink (-)200mA Ignition 1 output - Grounds when ignition key is in ignition 1 position if required, not using
18. Violet (+)Door input - Not needed
19. Violet/black (-)200mA Aux 2 output - Not using at present
20. Brown (+)Brake shutdown input - GREEN / WHITE at brake pedal switch
21. Violet / YELLOW (-)200mA Starter output - Grounds during starter operation if required, not using
22. Gray/black (-)Diesel wait to start input - Not needed
23. Orange (-)200mA Accessory output - Grounds when ignition is in the accessory position, not using
24. GREEN / WHITE (-)200mA Factory alarm disarm output - Not needed

H3 Remote start 10 pin heavy gauge harness

1. NC - No connection
2. RED / black (+)Fused 12v Accessory/Starter input - 30a Fused constant live - White at ignition harness
3. Pink/black (+)Flex relay input (87a) key side (if required) of flex relay - 25a Fused constant live - White at ignition harness
4. Pink/white (+)Ignition 2/Flex relay output - BLACK/ orange at ignition harness
5. Red (+)Fused ignition 1 input - 12v 30a Fused constant battery (+) - White at ignition harness
6. Green (+)Starter input (key side of starter kill) - BLACK/ white at ignition harness, cut and wire to key side
7. Violet (+)Starter output (starter side of starter kill) - BLACK/ white at ignition harness, cut and wire to starter side
8. Orange (+)Accessory output - Splice into Gray at ignition harness
9. RED / white (+)Fused 12v ignition 2/flex relay input - 30a Fused constant live - white at ignition harness
10. Pink (+)Ignition 1 input/output - Splice into ignition 1 - Blue/red at ignition barrel

I'm also planning to use the included 504D shock sensor and 508D proximity sensor, these came with their own 4 wire harnesses. Am I right in assuming they simply plug into sensor 1 and sensor 2 inputs on the side of the main unit, although I have come across some weird diagrams for those as well.

Thanks again for any help, sorry if some of this sounds a bit basic.

H3/3 Pink/black. You don't need this.

There should be 2 +12V sources at the ign switch. White and BLACK/ red. Split up your +12V fused connections between them.

Everything else appears ok

Outstanding, thanks for your help, I'll crack on with that then

Just a quick follow-up.

Managed to get some time to get the system fitted over the weekend, wired as above and works sweet as a nut with very little in the way of teething problems.

Remote start in manual mode caused a bit of head scratching till I finally found the initialisation sequence when you leave the car

Thanks again for your help mscguy

Yet another quick question regarding this install, I've bought a 520T backup battery kit and am looking to get it installed over the weekend. Before I go ahead I just want to check that I'm on the right track, do I cut the red constant live feed to (H1/pin 1) and connect this to the live constant input to the backup battery module, then connect the gray live output from the battery module to the live feed to the alarm (H1/pin 1) so that all power (alarm supply) is routed through the backup battery?.

I've actually never installed one of those before, but looking at the wiring guide, you sound correct. Don't forget the trigger wire.

I notice that you're using the (+) parking light connection. I don't know how long that 520T will be able to provide current for that. You can try it, and if it doesn't last long, do your lights with the (-) wire. I don't even see your (+) RED / yellow in any wiring chart or Alldata. I assume it works though.

Thanks for your help again, with regards the trigger wire, I'll be using the redundant H2/10 trunk (-) input.

The (+) parking light connection was my own preference as the car has pop up headlights and I didn't like the idea of using the sidelights so I split the wire through diodes and connected them to the indicators.

From what I've managed to trawl up off the net, the supplied DEI battery is something like 0.7ah and not very well favoured so I'll be looking to swap that for something in the region of 5.0ah to make allowance for the extra current draw.

mscguy wrote:

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H3/3 Pink/black. You don't need this.

There should be 2 +12V sources at the ign switch. White and BLACK/ red. Split up your +12V fused connections between them.

Everything else appears ok

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Can you explain how you mean "Split up your +12V fused connections between them"?
Thanks

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"Blessed is you who believes in the LORD"

You have several wires on your system that need constant power. Do not connect them all to the white wire in your ignition harness. Do not connect them all to the BLACK/ red wire in your ignition harness. Connect half of them to the white wire, and the other half to the BLACK/ red wire.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.