02 Camry Avital 4103 remote start wiring

I'm having trouble getting my remote start to stay running and I think it's because I can't get Virtual Tach to work.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here's the information on my car:
2002 Toyota Camry LE 4 cyl. 2.4L engine. It has PW & PL but per the VIN # it does not have the Keyless entry system.
It does not have a chip in the key I confirmed by getting a metal only key made and it works,so I don't have a bypass.
After reading and using the information from a post on this website "Avital 4103 to 2006 Camry".
I figured this should be pretty easy and it pretty much has been except keeping the car running.
I'm installing a Avital 4103 (or 4103L) I ordered the 4103XL from Amazon but the (unsealed) box
it came in says Model 4103, the owners guide says Model 4103L.
The "Quick Reference Install guide" is for Model 4105, I assume thats a viper number. All the wiring harnesses
were rolled up and things looked new. I was wondering if it could have been a returned unit because the remotes
work and I haven't programmed them.



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Thanks!
Randy

Oops! somehow I clicked submit before I was done putting in all the information.

The Keyless entry is working fine.

Here's what's going on with the remote start: (Sorry for the long explanation, I'm trying to include everything.
Also I've tried searching for the answer and have not found it, if I missed an obvious solution I apologize.)

I used the ready remote site and wired it per that information (my note in the description will indicate a wire I had connected wrong).
I have not connected the hood pin switch yet, it's ran but not connected to a pin (taped off).
I did not run a tach wire I was hoping to use Virtual Tach. I did find (2) black orange wires at the gray 22 pin plug
to the right of the steering wheel (per ready remote). However on engine start it's hard to tell what voltage it is because the
DV meter blinks when it goes from 0 VAC to a voltage. Once it?s started I didn?t notice much of an AC voltage increase as I revved the engine.
I just found that it may be Blk/Orng @ Pin #5 in 31 pin connector at ECM.

Here's my initial problem: The car started, ran 15 sec and shut-off, restated a few seconds later and ran for 15 seconds and then restarted
a second time (3 total starts) ran 15 seconds and shut off.
I ran the "remote start Shutdown Diagnostics" and the LED flashed (3) times indicating Low or no RPM, low battery (voltage and virtual tach modes).

I tried to program Virtual Tach but since the car didn't stay running after the second start, I shut the car off with the remote after 12 seconds
so it wouldn't get shut off by the remote starter, thinking this would program it by saving some type of voltage, it didn't work.

I tried "reset and deletion" I reset "Features" and "Virtual Tach Reset"
I tried to reprogram Virtual Tach and had the same results as before starts 3 times, tried to shut it off with the remote to save some type of voltage setting.   

I did the "Tach Learning" and then tried programming "Virtual Tach" again.
Same results, doesn't stay running.

It was getting late and I wanted to use the remote start the next day so I reprogrammed "Engine Checking" to off.
I pushed the remote start and the engine started and remained running.
The next day, with a colder outside temperature, the car being parked outside and the motor being cold, the remote starter tried to start the car but
it didn't start, it needed to run the starter longer since the car was cold, so I started it with the key.
At lunch time, it was warmer outside so I tried the Remote start and it worked, when I got in my car I noticed the blower fan wasn't working.
I assume I just didn't notice the blower fan wasn't working before because I was just trying to keep the car running.

After work I checked my wiring, I found the Heavy Gage HG-5(Pink and white stripe, programmable output for accessory or ignition) was wired incorrectly
to ignition switch white 8 pin plug pin#1(Second starter, BLACK / YELLOW wire, instead of Pin #4 Second ignition BLACK/ yellow wire.

Per the ready remote and the 2006 Camry I was using as a guide, the second starter blk /yel wire pin #1 is not connected to the remote start system.
I figured this was the reason the blower fan was not working with the remote start.
I removed the HG-5 Pink white striped wire from 8 pin plug Pin #1 and moved it to the correct Pin #4 Second ignition BLACK/ yellow wire.
Now when I try the remote start in either"Virtual Tach" mode or Engine Check "OFF", when I push the remote start, everything sounds like it's going
through the start routine but the starter doesn't engage, but my blower fan is on.

I checked the 2 fuses in the heavy gage wiring harness, they are good.
I unplugged the ignition switch wiring harness and there is 12V for just a second when the starter should engage.
The car starts and runs fine with the key.

The 2nd ignition behavior (Menu 2 feature #6) is programmed to Opt #1 (Ignition).
I guess I don't know why changing this one wire would prevent the starter form engaging.
Do I need to connect them together?

Here is the rest of my wiring harness information:

Primary Harness (H1) wiring diagram:
H1/1 through H1/5 - not used

H1/6 (Brown, (-) Horn Output) is wired to GREEN/ black @ dash fuse box white 24 pin plug (2G) pin 22

H1/7 (RED / White, Trunk Release Output) - not used

H1/8 (Black, Ground) is wired to self-tapping screw at kick panel

H1/9 (White, (+) Light Flash) is wired to dash fuse box, white 20 pin plug (2K) Pin #19


4 Pin Satellite harness
Not Used

Heavy Gage Relay Harness
1 (Pink) (+) 30 Amp output to Ignition Circuit is wired to Ignition BLACK/ Red @ignition switch white 8 pin plug Pin #6

2 (Purple) (+)30 Amp output to Starter Circ. is wired to Starter BLACK/ White @ignition switch white 8 pin plug Pin #8

3 (Orange) (+) 30 Amp output to Accessory Circ. is wired to Acces. Blue/Red @ignition switch white 8 pin plug Pin #3

4 (Red) (+) 30 High Current 12 Input is wired to 12V WHITE/ Red(30A) @ignition switch white 8 pin plug Pin #7

5 (Pink/White) (+) 30 Programmable output for Accessory or Ignition Circ. is wired to 2nd Ignition BLACK / YELLOW @ignition switch white 8 pin plug Pin #4

6 Red(+) 30 High Current 12 Input is wired to Red Wire #4 above

Door Lock Harness
1 Blue (-) Unlock Output is wired to Power Unlock lt. GREEN/ red wire @ driver Kick, Blue 13 pin plug, PIN #6
2 Empty Not Used
3 Green (-) Lock Output is wired to Power Lock lt. Green wire @ driver Kick, Blue 13 pin plug, PIN #1

Remote Start Harness (H2)
H2/1 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input is wired to self-tapping screw at kick panel

H2/2 Violet/White Tachometer Input Wire - not connected trying to use ?Virtual Tach?

H2/3 Brown (+) Brake Switch Shutdown Wire is wired to GREEN / WHITE Brake Wire @ Dash Fuse box, white 20 pin plug (2K), Pin 15

H2/4 Gray (-) Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Wire ? Not connected yet

H2/5 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger Output - Not connected yet

Thanks!



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Thanks!
Randy

So, If I'm reading this right, you currently do not have your Starter 2 wire at the ign switch connected. You need that.

You need to use a relay.

86+87 +12V Fused
85 4 pin satellite harness Purple (-) Starter output
30 2nd starter wire at Igntion switch BLACK / YELLOW Pin #1

Make sure you sanded down to metal with your ground wire in the kick panel.

You need to have both starter wires connected use above post for relay wiring

Starter BLACK/ white + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 8
   
Second Starter BLACK / YELLOW + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1

Also you will be much better off running a tach wire

Try this one

TACH BLACK/ ORANGE (AC) See NOTE #4

NOTE #4: ON THE 2.4L ENGINE, THE TACH WIRE IS AT THE DATA LINK CONNECTOR


use you meter black to ground red to suspect wire. Set it to AC Volts with the engine running you should see about .7v and it should slightly increase with engine RPM.

also not sure why your using a 2006 wiring diagram that is a different car

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

mscguy, Thanks! I appreciate your help. I'll add a relay and connect it to the satellite harness as you described. I did use a metal brush and drill to scrape off the paint down to the metal so I believe my ground is good.


Chev104275, Thanks! I appreciate your help. I'll try to find that Tach location and get this wired up.
Also, I used the 2006 as a reference because it's the same Camry generation and I figured it would at least help me know what wires needed connected. I did use the 2002 info from Ready remote.

I'll try to get to this this weekend, I'll let you know how it works out.




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Thanks!
Randy

mscguy and chev104275, Thanks! I really appreciate your help.
I hooked up the second starter wire and found the BLACK/ orange wire for the Tach got it connected and now my remote start it's working correctly.

Thanks!
Randy

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Thanks!
Randy

One more thing any idea where I would find the wire to enable the rear window de-icer?
I thought I could wire it (with a relay ?)to the H2/5 Blue /White (-) 200mA Rear defogger output.
Thanks!


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Thanks!
Randy

Yes, you can wire it to the H2/5 Blue/white

Should be a YELLOW /GREEN wire in the back of your heater/ac/hvac control etc. Test it first though. Red Probe on suspect wire, Black probe on ground. Will show Voltage when off, and 0V when switch is on.

Program your 2nd status wire to Latched.

You may be able to get that wire at the drivers side relay box.

Connector 2C Pin 4. Connector is 2nd down on the right.

mscguy Thanks! I appreciate your help with this. I may give that a try if just starting the car and using the heater doesn't clear the rear window most of the time.

Thanks!

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Thanks!
Randy