1993 Jeep Avital 4103 No remote start

Hi all.

I've been browsing the forum in hopes for a solution, but to no avail. I'm Installing the Avital 4103 into my 1993 Jeep Cherokee. The Jeep has no factory theft system so no additional modules are being installed. I did reverse polarity for the door locks using 2 relay circuits. Other than that I am only using what comes with the kit. My issue is that I cannot get remote start to engage. In fact when I press the remote start on the remote, the led on the Avital box does not even flash (Not that I know if it should, I'm just assuming). Anyway here is a break down:

H1:
1 LTGRN/BLK- NA
2 GRN/WHT- NA
3 YL- NA
4 WHT/BLU- NA
5 OR- NA
6 BRN- Connected to horn circuit (works)
7 RD/WHT- NA
8 BLK- Grounded to Chassis in Driver's kp (tested good)
9 WHT- Connected to parking light circuit (works)

Lock Harness:
1 BLUE- Connected to 5 pin relay; converted (-) to (+) then to door unlock
2 DE-PINNED- NA
3 GREEN- Connected to 5 pin relay; converted (-) to (+) then to door lock

High Current Harness:
1 RD- Connected to (+)12V Common
2 PNK/WHT- NA (no secondary acc)
3 RD- Connected to (+)12V Common
4 OR- Connected to Ign ACC wire (tested w/ key ACC pos and LED lead)
5 PUR- Connected to Ign starter wire (tested w/ key STRT pos and LED lead)
6 PNK- Connected to Ign on wire (tested w/ key ON pos and LED lead)

Satellite Harness:
NA - unplugged.

Remote Start Harness:
1 BLK/WHT- paired to H1:8 and grounded to drivers kp
2 VLT/WHT- currently not connected since starter motor will not engage
3 BRN- Connected to (+) wire on brake switch (tested w/ LED lead)
4 GRY- NA
5 BLU/WHT- NA

Working:
Door Lock/Unlock
Parking Lights
Horn/Panic

Not Working:
Remote Start

Any ideas are welcome; so please, give me something to try out. :-)

Do the parking lights flash a bunch of times showing a diagnostic code?

All harnesses are fully inserted? No bent pins? Fuses ok?

Do any dash lights come on, and it just wont crank? Or does nothing at all happen?

H1/4 WHITE/ blue Touch this to ground once, and remove. Does it attempt to start then?

The only time I see the parking lights flash is when the lock and unlock is pressed on the key fob. However, I only get one flash when pressing lock and two flashes when pressing unlock. From what I can find online, this is normal though. Also, the LED on the control box is identical; lock = one flash, unlock = two flashes.

Correct, all the harnesses appear to be completely connected and secure. No pins are visibly bent. Fuses all seem to be good; removed and tested for continuity.

The dash lights will come on with the parking lights when lock/unlock command is initiated, but not when remote started is pressed on the Fob. There is actually zero response from the control unit, or vehicle at all. When I press the * button, I get a green flash on the fob, but then no LED response on the control unit, no dash lights or accessories powering on, and no engine crank or starter motor coming on. I've also tried pressing the * button 2 to 3 times as well as long holds, but get nothing still.

Yes, for the H1/4 lead, I have tried touching this to ground with the door locked and unlocked, and also ign on and off, but of course there is still zero response from the control unit or the car. I have also tried leaving this grounded and pressing * on the fob, but there was no change in the result.

Also, thank you for your prompt response. I usually have really bad response results to my posts.

Nvm didn't read whole post, try disconnecting the brake switch wire..

I'll give that a shot tonight and let you guys know.

I'm also going to disconnect the heavy harness and try simulating the key start by bridging the terminals to see if it will start. Although I really feel it is something with the module since I would think I should at least get a response there before the heavy harness would even matter.

In addition to that I'm going to try to get the last shut down report to see if it is getting feedback from one of the shutdown signals for some reason.

I just now took a 4x03 box to the bench. All I hooked up were the two large red, the small ground, and the blk/wht (neutral) to ground. It would initiate RS (I could hear the internal relays click) by touching the wht/blu to ground. There were no flashes on the LED.

With the same hook-up, RS deactivated by the wht/blu, I held the button, touched the large pink to B+, removed the large pink, released the button, pushed and released the button once. The LED flashed the latest shutdown. In my case 4 for activate wht/blu input.

Recheck your shut-down inputs:
Blk/wht must be grounded.
Brown brake must be Zero-volts. (Disconnect completely to test).
Grey hood must be open (not grounded). (Disconnect completely to test).

I had mine "Remote Starting" on the bench with only 4 wires hooked up. I reviewed your connections in your post. Looks Ok to me, it is a simple vehicle to install. One of your shut-downs has to be active. As mentioned, possibly the Brake, because the Neutral is grounded (check) and the Hood is N/C. Unplug the harness and check the brown wire for voltage to ground. If there is any, that's the problem.

mscguy wrote:

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Do the parking lights flash a bunch of times showing a diagnostic code?

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I would say no, because the 4x03 series don't flash active shutdown codes on the park lights. I just checked one.

davep. wrote:

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mscguy wrote:

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Do the parking lights flash a bunch of times showing a diagnostic code?

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The 4x03 series don't flash shutdown codes on the park lights.

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Good to know. Thanks.

Ah, I see. So maybe there's a bit of voltage coming in through that brake switch. I did notice that the electrical system in this thing is not very clean and picks up some noise, so I wouldn't at all be surprised to find that I'm getting a slight current there somehow.

I'll disconnect it and see if I get better results. The hood pin line isn't even connected so I shouldn't have an issue there. I'll double check the Blk/wht ground line, just in case it has a back connection or something. This might just turn out to be an easy fix after all.

vettemike wrote:

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This might just turn out to be an easy fix after all.

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I think it will be easy. The 4x03 is pretty simple.

You may find that after you get it to attempt a RS, it may not stay running. At this point you have to hook up the tach (I always use a tach connection, it's the most reliable method) do tach-learn, go into programming and deal with engine checking, etc.

We'll help you with that if needed. You'll get it sorted.

Yeah, I was expecting I might run into that. I just haven't connected it because I have to run it through the firewall to the ecm in the engine bay. Once I get all the other stuff checked out, I was planning to take care of that part. I try to keep all this neat and clean so that part might take the longest since it has the longest route to travel.

That's really great to hear, thank you all for your help.

Hey guys, sorry for my late response.

So the other night when I got home I crawled under the dash to unplug the brake light and happen to accidentally tug on the little black and white ground wire from the remote start harness and it popped right out of the ring terminal.
It turns out that got too excited with the crimper and crimped the wire in half. Only the wire casing was holding it into the terminal. I pulled the terminal restripped both ground wires, crimped, and screwed it back down to grown. I quickly hit the * and low and behold, starter motor noises... :-)
I immediately started trying to figure out the tach sensor wire. In my personal opinion, running a single 16ga wire through a firewall and tapping to some place that sends a signal back into the car is tacky, unrefined, and all around redundant. So... I dug a little deeper up into the dash and located the cluster harness. AllData states that the tach signal wire at the ECM (under the hood) is Gray/Lt Blue. In the cluster harness I also found a wire with the same code. I clipped it with a t-tap, plugged in a lead and carried it around the front of the car where I located the tach signal wire identified in the diagram. I grabbed a good piece of it and poked it with my multi meter (no pun intended), then touched the other lead to the line from the cluster and just like that, perfect continuity.

I closed everything up in the front and adjusted the tach wire for the remote start, then connected it to the T-tap. Last, I loomed everything up and secured with zip ties before giving it a function test.

Doors lock and unlock, windows roll up with lock +3sec and down with unlock +3sec, Panic fires off proudly (even though it sounds like a donkey giving rides at the the fatty parade), aaaaand the engine fires right up with remote start!

Thank you guys for your input and assistance. I'm glad it was just an oversight and not a problem. lol.