Is my truck too big for shock sensor?

Hi I I got a viper5706v and dball 2 hooked up with the shock sensor shock sensor doesn't seem to cut it just can't get it sensitive enough to pick up jolts around the truck/SUV I had it mounted at first on the harness but it wouldn't pick up a thing so I moved it to a plastic piece inside the dash cuz I seen another guy have success with it it did improve a little bit but still doesn't work as good as it should it's in a 05 suburban just need to know if I need an alternative mounting place or if a different shock sensor would be better it seems like to me the truck is just so big and heavy that the vibrations just don't travel that far any advice is appreciated thanks

When testing the sensor wait at least one minute after arming to check the sensitivity. You can try attaching the sensor to the steering column or a steel brace near the center dash. Suburban are big. You could also add a glass break sensor. This will cover all the rear windows.

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sparky

Yes thank you for the reply my main concern is vandalism and theft are high in my area I want it to be able to pick it up if something hit the body too would I be better using another brand sensor is there any that is more sensitive than dei I am really convinced that it's just too heavy for that shock sensor I was gonna get the mic and the field sensor as well but I wanna get this taken care of first

I guess I should add I've got it adjusted as good as I think it's gonna get any higher yields the same results as if it's turned down lower does that make any sense maybe the sensor could have been bad out of the box

Its possible its defective but location and mounting are crucial to good performance. Ideally sensors need to mounted very secure to something that doesn't really change with temperature. Steel braces don't change with temperature like wire harness do. It depends on what your expectations are. Many people want them so sensitive that anybody messing with the van causes the alarm to sound. I always set them to work in real world conditions. A slap on the vehicle won't cause it to go off but a good hit will. You need to make sure a thunderstorm or heavy vehicle driving by won't trigger it. It's a balancing act. I have used more than one sensor in larger vehicle's as long as they are isolated from each other. You can always try another brand of sensor.

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sparky

So if I use a second sensor where would be a good secondary location for the back only thing I could think of is behind the plastic trim on one side or the other behind the rear doors or underneath my Amp rack I guess that would make it a central location what you guys think would be best? The Amp rack is Mdf so it wouldn't change at all with the elements I wish I could post pictures I'd just show you how I got the first one mounted

All you can do is attach some long wires to the sensor and try it in different spots until you find the one that works. Then finalize the wires.

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sparky

Ok thanks sparkie I'll give that a try and see what happens

I leave my shock sensors turned way down. You're always going to get a lot of false alarms otherwise. When you have the sensitivity up high enough to detect a door ding or vandalism, any motorcycle or thunder will set it off. I've even had a gust of wind set it off presumably because of a slight rocking in the suspension.

The other reason I don't worry about shock sensors is because any method a thief uses to break into your car doesn't create much vibration. If they throw porcelain through your window, it's virtually silent and uses very little force. A slim jim is the same way. It won't detect someone opening the hood with a pair of pliers between the grill slats either and even if you have a hood pin switch, they can get a partner to cut the battery cable before the alarm has time to go off (1.5 seconds IIRC). Auto jigglers probably won't set off a shock sensor either.

It sounds like what you need is the proximity sensor.

Yeah thanks I understand that but works for vandalism I don't get any faults at all only when my dogs hit it lol none of those situations apply to my install I have a battery bank wouldn't matter if they cut the cable either they would only be disconnecting my starting battery I've got the prox and glass break now I appreciate the reply though