Setting up Viper 3305v for Door Poppers

What I am trying to do is use the remote for the Viper 3305V to

1. Lock Doors and Arm Alarm
2. Unlock Doors and Disarm
3. Open Drivers Door
4. Open Passenger Door
5. Open Trunk

There are no door handles, so the doors need to be remotely activated, individually, not sequentially like the double press progressive unlock feature.

Can it be set so that the arm/disarm buttons on the remote can also be separate aux channel outputs? Can you get a remote with more buttons? I don't know enough here, and have searched a lot but not found an answer.

The 3305 only has one AUX channel. You need at least two. Plus the normal Aux that is the trunk-pop.

Most DEI systems and Fobs can be custom programmed for the buttons. My old 791 has 3 aux channels, plus the trunk pop. Channel 4 is Aux+Unlock, and channel 5 is Aux+Lock. You have to push both buttons. I use 4 for the electric bed roller cover OPEN, and 5 to close it.

You can do the same thing. Aux+Lock (on the left) for Left door open, and Aux+Unlock (on the right) for passenger door open.

You need more outputs than the 3305 has. But what you want to do is possible, and straight forward.

So if I forget the trunk opening, can I use the channel 2 and 3 to activate the doors? And can you program the remote to do it like I said?

The trunk pop is "AUX". You have to hold the button for 2-3 seconds before it outputs.

Ch 3 is lock and unlock at the same time.

Lock and Unlock also do "arm" and "disarm".
So yes. If you don't need the trunk-pop, the 3305 can do it. If you have the 4-button remote, each of the 4 buttons can be programed to the 4 functions. With a 3-button remote, the Aux 3 channel will be 2 buttons at the same time. Lock and Unlock.

So this is what I have so far.

Does the parking light flash need a relay?
Do the lock/unlock need diodes in this setup with the multiple connects?

I'm not sure what the latching relay, and the two relays below it are. Looks like a Ghost Switch set up. I don't do GS's that way. I don't know if that is correct or not. It looks like if you don't lock the car with the fob, one relay coil stays energized. Eventually the battery will be discharged.

You shouldn't need a relay for light flash. Exception is a European car that has separate left and right park light circuits. Then you do.

The aux outputs to the door poppers need relays. You probably know this.

What is the year / make / model you're working on? Knowing this helps with looking up wiring diagrams. :grin:

davep. wrote:

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I'm not sure what the latching relay, and the two relays below it are. Looks like a Ghost Switch set up. I don't do GS's that way. I can't comment whether it's correct or not. I don't use latching relays, so I can't evaluate circuits that have them.

You shouldn't need a relay for light flash. Exception is a European car that has separate left and right park light circuits. Then you do.

The aux outputs to the door poppers need relays. You probably know this.

What is the year / make / model you're working on? Knowing this helps with looking up wiring diagrams. :grin:

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The latching relay handles power to the entire car. It is locked in the battery box in the trunk with the battery, the starter solenoid and the alarm.
When the relay on the left receives a (-) signal from the alarm unlock trigger, it connects power to C2 as shown on the latching relay which connects M1 to M2, thereby powering the car. When the relay on the right receives a (-) signal from the lock trigger, it disconnects M1 from M2, and cuts all power to the car. M2 feeds the main power junction at the firewall.

As far as evaluating the circuit, I just wanted to know if I should isolate the green and yellow taps that go from two relays to the alarm lock/unlock wires that are hooked to the triggers of the door lock module. The door lock module is an aftermarket 5 wire central locking unit that has (-)lock and (-)unlock triggers, as shown.

Yes, the door solenoids are on relays, and the trigger wires shown just go to the coil of the relay.

It is a 1965 Pontiac GTO, but that won't help in the slightest with wiring diagrams because I have rewired the entire car from scratch. And the above diagram is pretty much self-contained anyways, so not sure what you would need them for anyway.

davep. wrote:

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It looks like if you don't lock the car with the fob, one relay coil stays energized. Eventually the battery will be discharged.

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If you look closer, you will see that both relays have the negative side of the coil hooked to NO momentary switches, and lock/unlock triggers, which are also momentary, so there is no way the battery could be drained.

This might be easier to see - the orange diodes are what I think I need to add to the circuit:

Ok. Now I understand. That will work. You don't need the 'upper' diodes on the relay coils. Just the ones between the module and the system. Unless you use the "momentary key=on" and "momentary off" switches you have in the first diagram. Then you DO need the upper diodes, or the momentary switches for the power latch will actuate the lock module.

I have one observation: Do you have power door lock switches in the car for the locks? If = YES, you will want to put the door switches on the "Lock module" side of the diodes so using the lock switches doesn't turn off the power to the car. The "Central Locking Systems" I see on here have the "door switch" incorporated into the driver lock actuator. If your system is like this, ignore this comment. It will work with the diodes.

You might also want a hidden switch, or at least be able to use the round key to get in the trunk to turn on the car if your fob doesn't function. I'm sure you've thought of this contingency.

Even though you have made substantial changes to the wiring, knowing this is a 65 GTO (A-body) helps a lot. Having graduated HS in 71, I grew up with 60-70's GM cars. I know the wire colors and circuits by memory. Does not apply to this one of course.

Sounds like a cool project.

davep. wrote:

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Ok. Now I understand. That will work. You don't need the 'upper' diodes on the relay coils. Just the ones between the module and the system. Unless you use the "momentary key=on" and "momentary off" switches you have in the first diagram. Then you DO need the upper diodes, or the momentary switches for the power latch will actuate the lock module.

Sounds like a cool project.

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I removed the switches from the diagram for clarity, but they are there, so if they get used, I think those upper two diodes should stay.

Those two switches, plus two momentary push buttons to open the doors are there in case you don't have your remote, or the battery dies or something. The trunk also has the keyed lock so in case the battery goes dead, you can still get in to jump/charge it and open the doors/etc.

If you are interested, this is (mostly) the wiring now. I did use small parts of the original harness for fitment and convenience, like the firewall bulkheads.

Ok, here is my almost final setup. Any problems with this that are obvious?