Connecting them to different parts of the same stretch of wire is the same as connecting them at the same point.
Alright took some time to talk myself into it but finally got them installed hooking both system to see door pin kept making door ajar on dash. After disconnecting I connected remote start to front door pin to uses raps and connected shock to rear door, everything working like it should. One question I have is about the shock sensor wires. I only have the blue wire hooked up for instant trigger but not sensitive enough for me will hooking warn wire (green) trigger full alarm with lighter hits or will the factory alarm not recognize the warn?
Only asking cause I live in a neighborhood with eldearly and don't feel like passing them off by setting off the alarm for to long of a time to test for the right wiring
Always diode isolate multiple triggers when connecting to the same wire. For negative triggers you would connect the diodes together to the vehicle with the bands towards the shock sensor and RAP wire.
Depends on whether the door pin will trigger with a short pulse or not as the warn away is about 50ms. If you want to hook them together you will need to isolate them with diodes also.
There should be a adjustment for the shock sensor that effects only the sensitivity of the blue wire output.
So hooking the Green wire together with the blue will make it nonadjustable so I don't recommend it!
If you want to add a GWA (Ground When Armed) to control the shock sensor with door locks use this:
ADW1212TW Latching Relay for adding a GWA.
This should be right if not and it works in reverse just swap the lock an unlock wires.
Wire ground from 504K to GWA This will keep the warn away (Green) from honking the horn when ignition is off and doors are unlocked.
Ignition still needs to be hooked up so shock sensor stays off also, to keep the auto door locks from turning on the GWA if doors lock when driving.
Relay to make the horn honk shortly. By wiring 504K Green to relay pin 85, 86 to +12v and 87 to the required input for the horn (+ or -), and 30 to horn wire. Use a DMM to test the horn wire for polarity and use the matching polarity for the 87 on relay.
No Warn away chirp is for aftermarket alarms with sirens that support it. But using the relay above will get you a single short horn honk.