Viper 4816V 3 Flashes on 2014 CR-V

DBALL2 plus 4816V in D2D. When I attempt to remote start, I see activity on the DBALL, but there is no cranking whatsoever. It sounds like the RS is attempting to start 2 or 3 times before giving up.

The status tells me Low or No RPM. Any recommendations on how to troubleshoot this further?

My Connections are as listed:

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
1(Red) – Connected to Ignition Switch Pin 1 White
2 (Black) – Connected to firewall chassis
3 - NC
4 - NC
5 (White) – Connected to Pin 8 Blue in Light switch connector
6 – NC

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 - NC

Remote Start, 8-pin connector
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 (Pink/White) – Connected to Yellow wire in Ignition Switch
4 - NC
5 (Violet) – Connected to Green wire in Ignition Switch
6 (Orange) – Connected to Blue wire in Ignition Switch
7 - NC
8 (Pink) – Connected to Red wire in Ignition Switch

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 - NC
4 - NC
5 - NC
6 - NC
7 - NC
8 - NC
9 - NC
10 - NC
11 (WHITE/ Blue) – Connected to push button (body is grounded)
12 - NC
13 (BLACK/ White) – Grounded to chassis
14 - NC
15 - NC
16 - NC
17 - NC
18 - NC
19 - NC
20 - NC
21 - NC
22 - NC
23 - NC
24 (GREEN / WHITE) – Connected to Orange Autolamp wire in Light Switch Connector

DBALL Red 12-pin
1 (BLACK/ White) – Connected to Green in Door Lock Connector (Note: Connector Pin count doesn’t match up – May be a problem)
2 ( GREEN/ Black) – Connected to Gray in Door Lock Connector (Note: Connector Pin count doesn’t match up – May be a problem)
3- NC
4- NC
5- NC
6- NC
7- NC
8- NC
9- NC
10- NC
11- NC
12- NC

DBALL Blue 14-pin
1 - NC
2- NC
3 (Tan/Black) – Connected to Pink Wire in Immobilizer Connector
4 (Tan) – Connected to Blue Wire in Immobilizer Connector
5- NC
6- NC
7- NC
8- NC
9- NC
10- NC
11 (ORANGE / Black) – Connected to Yellow wire in Immobilizer Connector
12- NC
13- NC
14- NC

Programming Settings
Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2 (Automatic Transmission)
Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2 (Accessory 2)

Other
Learning Virtual Tack (Can’t RS so have not been able to do this step)
Light Flash Polarity set to negative
D2D cable, Neutral Safety Switch, control center, etc all connected.

Ah, an easy one.  On the 8 Pin thick ignition wire harness. you must connect the Red, RED / Black and RED / White wires to +12V constant.

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Soldering is fun!

As for the door lock & unlock wires, I usually just get them in the harness that runs under the fuse block.  It is wrapped / sheathed with
a mesh fabric, so just remove / cut the tape at one end and pull it open and back to expose the wires.  The Gray and Green are the
thinnest wires in the bunch.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg, you are a lifesaver. Connecting the other three wires has the RS working well.

The door lock\unlock still doesn't work (not really a surprise), but I'll see if I can do as you say and follow the wires coming from the door and find a spot to expose them.

Thanks!

Should the Remote Starter auto lock the door when it starts up (if the doors were unlocked to begin with)?

Pretty certain I got the smallest green and gray wire, but I recall my Accord (different RS) would auto lock on start.

Not really a big deal, just curious.

Just did a few of them in the last couple of weeks, so my memory is good.     Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos.  The Viper should
be able to lock and unlock while the engine is OFF even if you are on the wrong wires.  It only uses those connections when the engine
is running.

I only use iDatalink bypass modules on these cars.  Not sure on the DB-ALL2, but here is the way it works on the iDatalink module.
The only way to turn off the Factory Alarm system is via an unlock before the remote start.  It is just the Drivers door and only for
~4 seconds.  After the engine is remote started, the bypass module sends a lock command to lock / relock all the doors.

The goof is that the Viper Unlock command will act just like the Factory FOB unlock command when the engine is OFF - same progressive
unlock.  When the engine is running, the factory FOB's won't work and the Viper remotes will unlock all doors at once with a single unlock
command.

If you have a Digital Multi Meter, finding the lock wires is pretty easy.  Set the DMM for 20V DC.  Connect the Red test lead to a
+12V constant source.  Connect the Black test lead to the suspect wire.  A lock command from the factory FOB or the door buttons
will make the DMM go the +12V briefly.

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Soldering is fun!

All works well for me now, really appreciate your pointers. For anybody that comes upon this thread by search, here is my final list of connections\settings that got me up and running:

My Connections are as listed:

Main Harness, 6-pin connector
1 (Red) – Connected to Ignition Switch Pin 1 White
2 (Black) – Connected to firewall chassis
3 - NC
4 - NC
5 (White) – Connected to Pin 8 Blue in Light switch connector
6 – NC

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 - NC

Remote Start, 8-pin connector
1 (RED / Black) – Connected to White wire in Ignition Switch
2 - NC
3 (Pink/White) – Connected to Yellow wire in Ignition Switch
4 (Red) – Connected to White wire in Ignition Switch
5 (Violet) – Connected to Green wire in Ignition Switch
6 (Orange) – Connected to Blue wire in Ignition Switch
7 (RED / White) – Connected to White wire in Ignition Switch
8 (Pink) – Connected to Red wire in Ignition Switch

Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness 24-pin connector
1 - NC
2 - NC
3 - NC
4 - NC
5 - NC
6 - NC
7 - NC
8 - NC
9 - NC
10 - NC
11 (WHITE/ Blue) – Connected to push button (body is grounded)
12 - NC
13 (BLACK/ White) – Grounded to chassis
14 - NC
15 - NC
16 - NC
17 - NC
18 - NC
19 - NC
20 - NC
21 - NC
22 - NC
23 - NC
24 (GREEN / WHITE) – Connected to Orange Autolamp wire in Light Switch Connector

DBALL Red 12-pin
1 (BLACK/ White) – Connected to smallest green in mesh wire cover under fuse
2 ( GREEN/ Black) – Connected to smallest gray in mesh wire cover under fuse
3- NC
4- NC
5- NC
6- NC
7- NC
8- NC
9- NC
10- NC
11- NC
12- NC

DBALL Blue 14-pin
1 - NC
2- NC
3 (Tan/Black) – Connected to Pink Wire in Immobilizer Connector
4 (Tan) – Connected to Blue Wire in Immobilizer Connector
5- NC
6- NC
7- NC
8- NC
9- NC
10- NC
11 (ORANGE / Black) – Connected to Yellow wire in Immobilizer Connector
12- NC
13- NC
14- NC

Programming Settings
Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2 (Automatic Transmission)
Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2 (Accessory 2)
Menu 3, Item 16, Option 2 (Remote Start Safelock ON)

Other
Learned Virtual Tack
Light Flash Polarity set to negative
D2D cable, Neutral Safety Switch, control center, etc all connected.