529t single window problem

I'm having some trouble installing my 529t for the rear window on my del sol, I figured it would be easy considering I had no trouble with the 535t on the door windows but I'm running into a strange issue.
Currently I have power and ground hooked up, the green and blue wires running to the window motor and the white and brown wires running to the switch, but when I hit the switch in either direction I'm getting 12v on both green and blue wires (I didn't test this before connecting to motor) I had to disconnect one of the motor wires and ground it to get my window back up. Im assuming the 12v is coming through one wire and back into the unit through the other, either that or maybe I have a defective unit? Could this just be a bad ground to the unit? Or maybe I should try diodes on the motor side? I'll be back to messing with it after work but figured I'd see if anyone here has some insight that might point me in the right direction

Seems unlikely, but my first thought is you've lost the ground at the switch.

Does the 529t operate the window correctly? You didn't indicate if it does or doesn't.

Check the wiring diagram OP, something seems wrong with what you've done it doesn't feel right but also follow Davep's advice.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just got home from work and started poking around. With one window wire disconnected it seems like the 529 is functioning as it should, it recieves 12v on the brown wire and sends 12v out through blue, same with white and green. If I connect one window wire to green and the other window wire to ground, leaving blue open, the window works(obviously direction depending on which window wire I ground). When both motor wires are connected, I'm picking up 6v on all 4 wires when the switch is triggered in either direction. I was thinking bad ground so after checking for continuity and having no trouble there I connected ground straight to the battery just to be damn sure, which didn't change anything. The diode thought was totally half baked, thinking more about that I don't see how I thought they would help.

Sorry for the double post, the forum won't let me edit until I hit 50 posts...

I havnt considered switch ground, although I have my doubts about that considering 3 things, one being the window did work 2 days ago in its stock form before I started this install. Second being the 529t has its own chassis ground, and only 2 input wires for the switch, and third being my other windows still work.
I've been staring at the diagram long enough to tell you what each wire is off the top of my head, but still not seeing anything wrong.

The 529t passes each wire from the switch through itself to the motor. The 529 puts B+ on one motor wire, but needs the switch to provide the ground for the other motor wire. I suspect the switch does not rest at ground.

I was unable to find a wiring diagram for a Del Sol. The year of your car would help. The only Del Sol I found was a 1995.

To not risk damaging your switch, try the following test.
Disconnect the white and brown wires. (Just leave the switch wires open)
Connect the white and brown wires to ground.
Activate the inputs.
Does the window go up and down with the 529t?

If = Yes:
Connect your volt meter across the loose switch wires.
Activate the switch UP, does the meter indicate 12 volts (Note the polarity!)?

If = Yes:
Activate the switch DOWN, does the meter indicate the opposite polarity of the UP direction?

If = Yes:
The switch does not rest at ground. You have a Type C system as outlined in the 529t Install Guide in the Download section. You have to add two relays to provide a ground that are triggered by the gray and gray/black wires. See the Install Guide.

If your switch does NOT rest at ground, and after looking at the Type C diagram, you still don't understand what you need to do with the relays, check back in and we'll diagram it.

Please let me know what you find. I'm curious.

It looks like I do have a type c circuit, the 535t seems to handle that differently. There's a good lesson learned about assuming things.
So I got 2 relays (RL45), and I'm having trouble understanding the instructions, I have them connected like this:
85-grey
86-12v constant
87-blue/window up
87a-ground
30-ground

Second relay:
85-grey/black
86-12v constant
87-GREEN/ window down
87a-ground
30-ground

Now I'm getting ~8v at all 4 wires when I press the switch in either direction, no clicking from the relays

Not looked too closely but change around 87 and 30 and give 87 your fused POS source.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Swapping 87 and 30 on one relay allows the window to work one way, swapping on both blows a fuse... not sure understand where your going with giving 12v to 87....
Now it seems I have blown out my switch, all fuses are good and no longer recieving 12v at white or brown when switched in either direction, other 2 windows still work.
While connected as in my last post when I supplied ground to 85 the relay clicks and I was able to move the window in either direction, depending on which relay i controlled. So if I'm understanding this correctly the 529t is supposed to be grounding one grey wire depending on direction, which it is not doing... if that is how it's supposed to be functioning it looks like I need a new 529t and a new window switch

NO Howie. We're establishing a GROUND. So no B+ to 87.

You made some mistakes. Here are the correct connections:

85-grey
86-12v constant
87-ground
87a-blue from 529t
30-window motor (wire that is (-) to go UP)

Second relay:
85-grey/black
86-12v constant
87-ground
87a-green from 528t
30-window motor (wire that is (-) to go DOWN).

Hook this all up as described above. Ground the orange OR ORANGE / black wires. The 629t should operate the window up or down with the brown and white wires disconnected.


I'm becoming concerned that you may have a switch problem.

Also: You have overlooked two questions I have, that the answers to would really help me help you.

What year is your Del Sol?
DOES the 529t make the window go up and down with the white and brown wires connected to ground, and the switch wires disconnected?

Oops, didn't realize I never answered those, it is a 95. With white and brown grounded and switch disconnected nothing happens, I'm assuming your making sure it's not a type b system?
Lucky I did have a spare switch, which is testing good. I reworked the relays to match what you said, which I believe is correct, but still no motion. I tried grounding 85 again, which again depending on which relay allows one direction, difference this time is it doesn't pop a fuse if I hit the opposite direction... so that's a very welcome change lol.
I'm still thinking I have an issue with my 529 not controlling it's output wires as it should, at least if I need a new one it should be a simple plug and play at this point

Ok, cool.

The source I use for wiring diagrams doesn't have anything for the 95.

The 529t should control the windows with the brown and white grounded. I was thinking that if the switch doesn't rest at ground, this check would confirm it.

The 529 has two internal relays.

Side 1 :
30 = blue
87a = brown
87 = B+ (internal)

Side 2:
30 = green
87a = white
87 = B+ (internal)

You can test the basic circuitry of the 529 with your ohm meter.

Blue to brown should be 0-Ohms.
Green to white should be 0-Ohms.
(If the above test(s) fail, the switch won't control the motor).

With the black and red connected to ground and hot at all times:

Activate Side 1 by grounding the orange wire.
Blue should become B+
Activate side 2 by grounding the orn/blk wire
Green should become B+
(If the above test(s) fail, the 529 has an internal problem).

If

So my module passes those tests but I'm not getting any output whatsoever on the grey wires... I figured the module was still at fault and got a new one, nothing changed. Clearly I'm misunderstanding the output wires... grey is labeled (-) output on activation side one, grey/black is labeled (-) output on activation side 2.... the only way that makes sense to me is grey is supposed to get ground when 12v is applied to brown, and same with grey/black responding to white...
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe my switch should ground one wire while it sends 12v down the other, but if that was the case the relays would be unnecessary right?

elc0314 wrote:

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the only way that makes sense to me is grey is supposed to get ground when 12v is applied to brown, and same with grey/black responding to white...

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>>>No. The gry ad gry/blk wires provide a (-) trigger (applies ground to these wires) when the output is active, when the orn or orn/blk wire is grounded and the module is active.

The gry and gry/blk wires have nothing to do with the switch or their brown and white wires.

I don't think you're testing the gry and gry/blk wires correctly.
Obtain a #194 light bulb. They're cheap at the parts store. You can attach leads or clip leads to it really easily, and it draws a little less than 200ma which is the limit for DEI outputs. Attach one lead of the 194 to constant 12 V. Attach the other side to the gry or gry/blk wire. If the light comes on, that (-) trigger is active. A (-) trigger goes NEG when active, so the other side of the circuit must be 12V. Including your meter lead.

When the module is activated by grounding the orn or orn/blk wire, it disconnects the switch side input from the motor wire, and applies +12V to the motor wire. AT the same time, the gry or gry/blk wire is grounded while that side is active. When the module times out (it moved the window) the 12V on the motor wire is removed, the ground on the gry or gry/blk wire is removed, and the switch input wire (wht or brn) is re-connected to the motor output.

elc0314 wrote:

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The only other thing I can think of is that maybe my switch should ground one wire while it sends 12v down the other, but if that was the case the relays would be unnecessary right?

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>>> In an earlier post, I suggested a test to determine if the switch rests at ground or not. I also suggested a test to see if the module would run the motor with the white and brown wires grounded. It should.

I'm pretty sure that IS the way the switch works. Grounds one wire, and energizes the other. The module passes both switch wires through itself to the motor when the module is NOT active.

Because neither switch wire rests at ground, there is no ground for the other wire when the 529 applies 12V to a motor wire to move it. The relays provide that ground, when the 529 is active, and the relays are controlled by the gry and gry/blk. The relays are only needed for the 529, not the switch.

The relays provide a ground when the module IS active. The relays have nothing to do with the switch operation. Only when the 529 is active.


Are you activating the module with the orn and orn/blk wires? (Put one to ground, to activate that side)

If you're attempting to activate the module with the switch input wires, that won't activate it. The module passes the switch input wires through to the motor.

Thank you Davep. This makes alot more sense now... so I pulled my door panel back off, and found one wire that's staying open no matter what... figured this must be a bad ground, so I grounded it, nothing changed.. so I'm pretty stumped there, I tried to use the relays to make it a normally grounded circuit like so
85-switch up
86-ground
87-ground
87a-jumped to 85
30-529t switch up input

85-switch down
86-ground
87-ground
87a- jumped to 85
30-529t switch down input

But it doesn't like that either. So going back to where it was yesterday, I can control the window with the alarm, but not with the switch... Atleast it's something

Finally got it all working. Problem was with the new wires I ran to the door, I replaced them while I was in there because one wire was bad and would only allow to window to roll up when the door was open. My mistake was running the switch directly to the 529t. I ran them to the OEM module instead, which gave me 2 normally grounded wires at the plug for the motor. Then I just removed the relays and it's all working.
Now the only thing I have to address is the window stopping half way up when triggered through the alarm, but I believe this is because I used an aux output instead of the ground when armed output. So I should be able to fix that by changing that aux to latch when armed instead of pulsed. But I'll save that for another day I'm just happy to have my window back.
Thanks again for all your help