06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused

Hey guys, ran into a snag here, could use some help. This is the Avital 5303 and DBall2 for a 2006 Pontiac G6. In the pic you'll see a purple circle that shows what looks like a connection between dball (+) ignition input and starters (+) ignition output and then out to the ignition switch. Considering all broken blue lines are not required, how do I read that connection? Also the dball2 pic shows the starters ignition as an "output" and the starter pic shows the ignition as an "input". I'm hoping someone can sort this out for me, thanks.

When using D2D the remote start output is not needed to trigger the DBALL2 which is what the blue segmented line does in a hardwired install. It being done through data instead. The DBALL2 is showing the connections at the relay pack output. And the remote start is showing the connections at the brain before the relay pack(Ribbon cable to relay pack). Which allows the key power to be sensed to enable user to enter programming modes and also disarm with out remote if need be.

lurch228 wrote:

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When using D2D the remote start output is not needed to trigger the DBALL2 which is what the blue segmented line does in a hardwired install. It being done through data instead. The DBALL2 is showing the connections at the relay pack output. And the remote start is showing the connections at the brain before the relay pack(Ribbon cable to relay pack). Which allows the key power to be sensed to enable user to enter programming modes and also disarm with out remote if need be.

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Thanks for replying Lurch, appreciate it. What your saying then is that I don't need the ignition wire from either, if I'm reading it right. If that's the case then I only need the brown accessory wire to the ignition switch? This pic is the heavy gauge relay that came with it, I think I read on a forum (I've read so many I can't remember) that because of d2d I don't need it either, is that true? All the black lines in the xpresskit pic is what I have done so far. I'm installing the start only and not the alarm. Parking lot at work is a fair distance away from locker room and I only want to start it from there. If you don't mind helping me out with this that would be great.

All solid wires in the DBALL2 will need to be connected. Will need the H/3, H/5, H/6 for remote start. Your vehicle uses acc drop out to start crank sequence. So the Pink H/6 ignition wire is also needed from the alarm/remote start.

lurch228 wrote:

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All solid wires in the DBALL2 will need to be connected. Will need the H/3, H/5, H/6 for remote start. Your vehicle uses acc drop out to start crank sequence. So the Pink H/6 ignition wire is also needed from the alarm/remote start.

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Hi Lurch, I have been working on this a little bit at a time, too busy but I finally went at it and hit a wall again, I'm close I think. I watched a video on YouTube from Lessco so I emailed him a couple questions since he knows these Avitals which he did reply. There was too much to type so that is why I made a short video after work so he knows what I'm talking about which is a lot easier. https://youtu.be/2MNi8Rb2ySw His last suggestion was to try this " gwr means "ground when running", that should be connected to a -negative 2nd ignition at the 5303l. Give that a go." I don't see a 2nd ignition at the Avital so I asked about it and no reply anymore, chances are he blew me off, no big deal. Check this out if you don't mind and let me know what you think, thanks.


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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

If you vehicle didn't come from Pontiac dealer with remote start already then you need a full aftermarket remote start install.

It looks like you have misunderstood what is needed to remote start your vehicle. If the vehicle has OEM factory remote start then you don't need all the extra wires that are needed to remote start a vehicle that doesn't have OEM factory remote start. The DBALL2 is capable of communicating with the OEM factory remote start and starting the vehicle If it has it. If you had OEM factory remote start you wouldn't need the 5303 unless you wanted to eliminate the OEM factory remote start limitations like 10 min. run time, and 2 remote starts limit before having to insert key to reset. For aftermarket control of OEM remote start you would need the DBALL2, XL202,and either the 6211t and compatible remote or the 6711t and compatible remote.

For complete aftermarket remote start install-(All Ribbon cable wires) should be hooked up between the H3 relay satellite pack and the main 5303 unit, as they are control wires to activate the relays of the relay satellite pack. As the Acc. and Ign. need to be powered up by the 5303 to achieve remote start (H3 heavey guage wires).

Battery RED / WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/3,H3/5     
Ignition 1   PINK     (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/6     
Accessory 1 BROWN     (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS to H3/4

Also have you read and programmed the DBALL2 per the Programming: Type 2 instructions. If you have tried and it failed you will need to reset the DBALL2 per the instructions. Then start by following the Module Programming (D2D Installation) connect plugs in order listed first then proceed to (Programming: Type 2 instructions)

Once you have this resolved post back.

Hey Lurch, I loved something up, hopefully an easy fix. I finally found some time to get back at this a couple days ago and try what you suggested, and then HELL YA! it fired up, then quit. I connected the remote start ribbon between the relay and 5303, then relay H3&H5 to constant 12v, relay H6 positive out to ignition switch and since brown accessory was plugged into the dball, I disconnected it from there and connected to relay H4 accessory. Since the ignition and accessory wires are a lot smaller than the heavy gauge relay, I separated the heavy gauge wires at the end to make a 1/3 of the wire to solder to. I programmed the 5303 to menu 3 #1 (4) tachometer then learned the tach with key starting, didn't work, menu 3 increased cranking time to 2.0, still didn't work, I reprogrammed/relearned the dball and that didn't work. So I read somewhere on this forum that a guy programmed menu 3 # (2) voltage and worked for him, so I tried it and that's when the bad doodie happened. It briefly started then shut down, dash lights / headlights flickering then chattering sounds like under powered relays and then the infamous starter solenoid shatter. I checked all the relays under hood and battery still has 12.74 volts, everything still works, windows, radio, OEM remote etc. When I try to start, seconds only it feels like it wants to start but not anymore, all it does now is all chattering. Finding the source is tricky, I definitely feel the chatter at the throttle body mostly but also at the solenoid and at the coil pack unless it's an echo off the firewall. To me it sounds like a fried relay somewhere I don't know to look, what do you think?

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

liam66 wrote:

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Hey Lurch, I loved something up, hopefully an easy fix. I finally found some time to get back at this a couple days ago and try what you suggested, and then HELL YA! it fired up, then quit. I connected the remote start ribbon between the relay and 5303, then relay H3&H5 to constant 12v, relay H6 positive out to ignition switch and since brown accessory was plugged into the dball, I disconnected it from there and connected to relay H4 accessory. Since the ignition and accessory wires are a lot smaller than the heavy gauge relay, I separated the heavy gauge wires at the end to make a 1/3 of the wire to solder to. I programmed the 5303 to menu 3 #1 (4) tachometer then learned the tach with key starting, didn't work, menu 3 increased cranking time to 2.0, still didn't work, I reprogrammed/relearned the dball and that didn't work. So I read somewhere on this forum that a guy programmed menu 3 # (2) voltage and worked for him, so I tried it and that's when the bad doodie happened. It briefly started then shut down, dash lights / headlights flickering then chattering sounds like under powered relays and then the infamous starter solenoid shatter. I checked all the relays under hood and battery still has 12.74 volts, everything still works, windows, radio, OEM remote etc. When I try to start, seconds only it feels like it wants to start but not anymore, all it does now is all chattering. Finding the source is tricky, I definitely feel the chatter at the throttle body mostly but also at the solenoid and at the coil pack unless it's an echo off the firewall. To me it sounds like a fried relay somewhere I don't know to look, what do you think?

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LMAO! I typed loved and it auto corrected to love

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

it did it again........

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

I assume forum doesn't like swearing

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

IF you disconnect the H3 connector from the R/S will it start with the key?

lurch228 wrote:

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IF you disconnect the H3 connector from the R/S will it start with the key?

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Yes I did and still the same


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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Other than a really dead battery that needs charging or replacing. What is the voltage in the battery with no load should be over 12 volts preferably 12.4 or more. If not charge the battery.
Never had this happen before so if not battery low or bad not sure what has gone wrong. Something is amiss if it was fine until your last change caused your current issue. Hopefully it's something simple and not major issue like the BCM or PCM getting damaged. At this point you need to get back to the basic functionality of the vehicle. Start by unhooking the Negative battery cable. Then un-plug all Alarm R/S and bypass plugs that are connected to the vehicle. Verify the integrity of the vehicle wires in case one broke at your connection points, and all fuses inside and under hood are good. Then re-connect battery and see if it starts with the key.

You may have run the battery down with door open and starting multiple times. Each time you start the vehicle it takes 15 continuous run time minutes in optimal conditions to replace the capacity used. Can be longer in cold temps to recharge the battery with the alternator.

For remote start with DBALL2 in D2D mode these are the wires that need to be hooked to vehicle from Alarm R/S and Relay pack!

12volts     RED / black (50A)     +     BCM, C3, pin D1 / Connect H1/2,Heavy Gauge H/3 ,and H/6

Ignition     pink     +     ignition harness or BCM, C4, pin D3 / Connect Heavy Gauge H/5

ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 RED PLUG, PIN C8, / Connect Heavy Gauge H/4

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN / WHITE (-)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM C2, PIN 5, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both)

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM, C3, PIN A7, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both)

Chassis GROUND / Connect H1/5, and H3/1

BRAKE WHITE (+)   @ BCM, C1, PIN 24 / Connect H3/3 "Only NEEDED If DBALL2 doesn't function to shutdown R/S when brake is applied.


Note* The BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX, on the Front Passenger side of the Center Console. The BCM has 4 connectors: C1, 72-PIN, GRAY PLUG, C2, 72-PIN GRAY CONNECTOR, C3, 41-PIN RED PLUG and C4, 68-PIN, LT. GRAY PLUG

lurch228 wrote:

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For remote start with DBALL2 in D2D mode these are the wires that need to be hooked to vehicle from Alarm R/S and Relay pack!

12volts     RED / black (50A)     +     BCM, C3, pin D1 / Connect H1/2,Heavy Gauge H/3 ,and H/6

Ignition     pink     +     ignition harness or BCM, C4, pin D3 / Connect Heavy Gauge H/5

ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 RED PLUG, PIN C8, / Connect Heavy Gauge H/4

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN / WHITE (-)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM C2, PIN 5, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both)

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM, C3, PIN A7, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both)

Chassis GROUND / Connect H1/5, and H3/1

BRAKE WHITE (+)   @ BCM, C1, PIN 24 / Connect H3/3 "Only NEEDED If DBALL2 doesn't function to shutdown R/S when brake is applied.


Note* The BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX, on the Front Passenger side of the Center Console. The BCM has 4 connectors: C1, 72-PIN, GRAY PLUG, C2, 72-PIN GRAY CONNECTOR, C3, 41-PIN RED PLUG and C4, 68-PIN, LT. GRAY PLUG

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Found the problem, it's brutal something so simple can waste so much time. I checked the battery with Vmeter and got 4.65 so I was about to pull it and have it checked out properly, it's only 10 months old. Once disconnected I decided to check again, only it was 12.74 I always disconnect the neg cable before I make any connections but this time when I put it back on I pinched the rubber boot so no solid contact, on now and all good, I'm getting 14.05 while running as well so that's ok. I assume that was the chaos when I hit start, thought I was off to get a bcm lol even though not funny.
I'm going to start over and follow your relay instructions so I have two questions, (1) I removed the bcm to get at C4 for connecting ignition H5 rather than at harness. The bcm is labelled numbers down and letters across so when I go to D3 the igntion is two smaller gauge pink wires, I was expecting one heavier gauge pink wire, do I solder H5 to both or just one? I'll use the bcm for the H4 accessory as well.
(2) next question is I have the accessory wire from the ignition harness going to the dball2 as per instructions, do I leave that connected along with relay accessory H4 connected to bcm?

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

That's why I started with the battery first!

liam66 wrote:

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1) I removed the bcm to get at C4 for connecting ignition H5 rather than at harness. The bcm is labelled numbers down and letters across so when I go to D3 the igntion is two smaller gauge pink wires, I was expecting one heavier gauge pink wire, do I solder H5 to both or just one?

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Just 1 is required as they are only low draw BCM switching wires that need to be powered. I connect to both to spread the strain out in case the wires get pulled. I also don't solder these wires as it makes them brittle and inflexible. Soldering non data wires is a matter of opinion and Technic to get a reliable connection.

Do what works for you if that is soldering them.

liam66 wrote:

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2) next question is I have the accessory wire from the ignition harness going to the dball2 as per instructions, do I leave that connected along with relay accessory H4 connected to bcm?

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Connect only solid wires to DBALL2 when using D2D mode via data 4 pin plug. You are sending the signal twice once by data and once by wire which can confuse the system and cause issues.

I'm done Lurch, thanks for taking the time to help me out with this, very much appreciated. I enjoy troubleshooting but I've put more time in this than I wanted to, can't get my head around this one. After everything I've tried, I'm still getting shutdown code 3, "no rpm or low voltage" seems it just won't pick up tach for whatever reason. I got the unit new and cheap, I was fairly confident I could do this myself considering I'm a gas fitter and read schematics. I'm only keeping this car one more winter and I was hoping to take advantage of the long range remote. I recently found out that all GM 2006 vehicles are a nightmare, nothing but problems, could be related no idea.
Just to recap, (I re-flashed the dball and programmed to type2, lock/unlock, trunk and cab temp all work on remote), (with the R/S blue/white I confirmed d2d mode), (learned tach with key, in the remote menu I tried both virtual and tachometer) and then the 3 pics verifying connections which we've already been through. Thanks Lurch



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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

In the dball pic where it shows bcm c4 at the accessory, disregard that, I forgot to erase it, went to bcm c4 from relay for accessory.

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Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Ok if that is the only issue then you will need to connect the Tach wire between the DBALL2 and the remote start Tach input. As listed in the DBALL2 guide. [1] Tach wire is an optional connection required on some remote starters, which do not support a tach signal in D2D.

You will need to change the settings back to Tach input on the Avital.

liam66 wrote:

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In the dball pic where it shows bcm c4 at the accessory, disregard that, I forgot to erase it, went to bcm c4 from relay for accessory.

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What are you referring to as the "went to bcm c4 from relay for accessory.

What relay? Are you referring to the satellite relay if so then your golden!

Just connect tach between the R/S and DBALL2

Don't give up just yet your so close!

You biggest misstep was confusing the OEM R/S install with the full R/S install that you needed and not hooking the ribbon wires to the satellite relay .

It wasn't until I watched you video that I saw the Satellite relay Ribbon misstep!

If still no Tach input (low or no RPM 3 flashes) you need to hardwire the Tach between the DBALL2 and remote start (Avital).
Some remote starters fail to see tach in D2D!