1990 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 & Viper 5704

1990 Chevrolet K1500 Z71
2 Door Step Side
Viper 5704
535T for windows
451M for locks

Main Harness (H1) 6-pin Connector

H1/1 Red (+)12VDC constant input Battery constant
/2 Black(-) chassis ground   ground to chassis
/3 Brown Siren Output(+) (+)Red Siren
/4 WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire     Not Used
/5 White Parking Light Brown(+)Headlight Switch    
/6 Orange GWA Output     Not Used
*Siren ground to chassis
{fuse polarity (+) on Viper

Door Lock, 3-Pin Connector

1 Blue
2 Empty
3 Green
Using 451M and Power Lock Type C


Remote Start 10-Pin Connector

H3/1 Pink Ignition Output   Pink Ignition Harness
/2 RED / White(+) Fused 30A Ignition        ?
/3 Orange(+) Accessory Output  Orange Ignition Harness
/4 Violet    Yellow Ignition Harness
/5 Green     Yellow Ignition Harness
/6 Red       Red Ignition Harness
/7 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Out   N/A
/8 Pink/Black   N/A       
/9 RED / Black(+) fused (30A) Accessory        N/A
/10 No Connection

H2 Harness, 24-pin connector

H2/1 Pink/White  N/A
/2 BLACK/ White ground to chasis       
/3 Blue/White Second Status  N/A
/4 GREEN/ Black OEM Alarm Disarm N/A
/5 RED / White Trunk Release Output        N/A
/6 Green (-) Door Trigger Input White at Pin or UD Light       
/7 BLACK / YELLOW Dome Supervision        N/A
/8 BROWN / Black Horn Honk Output ??   Black Steering Wheel Harness
/9 Dark Blue (-) 200MA status out        N/A
/10 Pink   N/A
/11 WHITE/ Black (-)200MA Aux3 Out        N/A
/12 Violet(+) Door Trigger Input        N/A       
/13 WHITE/ Violet 200MA Aux 1 Output      N/A
/14 Violet/Black 200MA Aux 2 Output      N/A
/15 ORANGE / Black 200MA Aux 4 Output      N/A
/16 Brown(+) Brake Shutdown  White Brake Pedal Switch
/17 Grey Hood Pin Input   To Included Hood Pin
/18 Violet / YELLOW 200MA Starter Out      N/A
/19 Blue Trunk Pin/ Instant Trigger      N/A
/20 Grey/Black Diesel Wait To Start      N/A
/21 WHITE/ Blue RemoteStart/TurboTimer    N/A
/22 Orange 200MA Accessory Input        N/A
/23 Violet/White Tach Input  White at Coil
/24 (-)200MA oem Alarm Arm Output        N/A
?? If using siren is this still suggested?

Window Wiring
Left Front Window Up      Dark Blue at window motor
Left Front Window Down    Brown at window motor
Right Front Window Up Blue/White Driver Kick Panel*
Right Front Window Down  Tan Driver Kick Panel*
* panels are off and can run right to motor if advantageous

I have researched as many places as I could scratch up for an old truck. I have all the interior panels and dash removed for a stereo install, new window sliders, etc. With the help of others in this forum and some probing with MM, I have found all of the wires listed at multiple alarm sites. I was assisted on a previous install of this alarm in another vehicle and anticipate that will make programming and use easier. The temperature was 110 degrees today and would like to utilize the window features. I am replacing a rear window, and was hoping to prevent another break in. I have owned this truck for over twenty six years and it deserves my love. Any help, corrections with my flawed thinking, and recommendations are welcome. Looking for approval before I start soldering. Measure twice, cut once seems to apply to many efforts. Thanks.

With what you have listed you missed the H1/6(-) orange ground when armed that needs to be hooked to the 535T H2/4 (-)orange and IF you want windows to stay down when remote started you will need to turn off the anti-grind feature. Can also be connected to one of the AUX H2/13 or 14 channels to roll windows up.

If you want the windows to roll up when the alarm goes off you will need to connect the H1/5 from alarm to the 535T H3/5 brown.

If using the siren the the H2/8 horn honk is not necessary unless you want both.

Thanks for the help. My locks work, Windows work. Tach is set according to set up. Set to auto transmission. Truck has two red wires at ignition harness that act exactly the same. Do both need to be connected, is there a preference. Yellow wire at ignition switch is cut. Have I made a mistake with the two items listed. Any other thoughts? . Lights flash as if it is set to start and passing by the first key position, just not firing the starter. I tried just grounding the brake switch wire. Truck starts with key first crank. I really appreciate the assistance

Split the load between the 2 RED wires.

H3/9 RED / Black needs to be hooked up as it provides the power for the starter output and Acc. When remote started. So hook it to the other Red wire on vehicle.

H3/4 Violet    Yellow Ignition Harness Starter side of yellow wire.
H3/5 Green     Yellow Ignition Harness Key side of yellow wire.

By Brake switch you mean H/2 BLACK/ White - Ground to chassis for Auto Trans.

Thanks lurch 228. Project that I wish I had more time to complete. Alarm, sensors, window and lock modules nice addition. The remote start is killing me.

H3/1 Pink Ignition Output Pink Ignition Wire
     /2 RED / White (+) Fused 30A Ignition N/A
     /3 Orange(+) Accessory Output Orange Accessory
     /4 Violet Violet Stater Wire Starter Side
     /5 Green Violet Starter Wire Key Side
     /6 Red Red Starter Wire 1
     /7 Pink/White (+) Ignition 2 Flex Relay Output N/A
     /8 Pink/Black N/A
     /9 RED / Black (+) Fused 30A Accessory Red Starter Wire 2
     /10 Not Used

Starter turns over. Big motor and usually takes some cranking power to start. With key starts first crank every time. Gives no rpm in diagnostics after attempted remote start. Just to check, have attempted start with hood pin open, switch turned to off position, H2/2 removed from ground, and all set off the proper diagnostic. Checked rpm at coil wire and seems to perform correctly. Have reset rpm numerous times. Used a bit writer to move off of auto, set tach and switches to auto like it should after rpm set up. The motor has never cranked enough to get rpm measurement? Set the crank time at all settings increasing length at every setting until 4 seconds. Never really seems to crank that long. Any help would be appreciated. Last piece on facelift of old truck. Would have thought an ancient basic system would be easier.

Long day.
H3/4 and H3/5 are hooked to ignition wire on indicated sides of wire.
Cheers.

If your getting crank and no start and increasing crank time is not cranking longer the it is seeing tack input and shutting down the 5704 starter circuit.

Check heavy guage fuse in H3/6 Red

Verify that when remote starting you have +12v on H3/1 Pink

Retested all the wires before posting. The only slight change from all I have read is my starter wires start at 12v and drops to approximately 10.5 volts at ignition before returning to about 14v while running. Everything I have read says steady 12 volts. Tach wire registers about 1.5 to just below 4 when I increase the throttle. Is there another way to program tach. TBI so no tach wire at each cylinder. I am persistent but am feeling defeated. Sure I have missed something simple, but when through all the connections as I was mounting the alarm and each accessory. Thanks for your efforts. Will go through the programming with the bit writer and look for any issues.

That is more than enough for the tach to operate. Just did a 1991 last fall without issue. If the pink remote start wire is outputting +12v to vehicle when remote started then not sure what the problem could be.

How long of a crank do you have with the key is it longer than the remote starter crank?

Pink wire goes to 9V maximum on the three remote start attempts. DMM seems to be fairly accurate on all my other tests. I am really happy with the sensors, window and lock modules. Is there another DEI product that would easily assimilate with the items I have purchased. Or other brand. I have spent a number of hours at this one item and would not be so frustrated but every other item works great. Would really like the remote start to work when I work in the snow. I will not have completed this project with one piece inoperable. I will hate hitting the arm or disarm button each and every time. Would rather try another route before giving up. Will attempt all and everything to make this work. Thanks for all your efforts.

Key crank is much longer than remote start. Programmed for 4 seconds but never seems to get close to that long of a crank time. All fuses good.

I wonder if you have low oil pressure problem or bad oil pressure sender causing the crank time to take longer than usual.

Have you tried setting the Menu 3 - Remote star Menu Item 14 to "increase" to see if it will crank long enough to start. In Tach Mode the "Cranking Time" Setting is not used. Only for Voltage sense or Off is the cranking time used. If that don't work try my next step.

Try going to voltage sense for Tach and then set crank time to see if it starts that way. With voltage sense crank time will be adjustable and if over adjusted it will continue to crank even after engine has started until set time has passed. Some GM designs have a minimum oil pressure to close the ignition or injector circuit, if their is a issue with the sender then crank time can be longer than usual. And tach output may be enough while R/S is rolling over motor to trigger the crank sequence to stop because it thinks vehicle has started.

It's normal to have a voltage drop under load, 9 vots seems a little low recheck your H3/6 Red and H3/9 RED / Black connections too the 2 Constant battery POS wires of the vehicle also make sure the unit has a good ground location. As a iffy main unit ground can cause all kids of weird issues.

If Voltage sense cranks long enough to start and the connections are well made then I would look at the oil sender. If it has any oil on it or in the electrical connector when you unplug it replace it.

Hope this helps.

Starter now cranks long enough to start. Seems like no spark. The oil sender has been replaced, but for twenty dollars and fifteen minutes, will try and solve the problem with its replacement. Fires up first crank still with key. This truck has been mine since day one and has been given much love. Oil pressure is fairly accurate at the gauge, but like I said, persistence usually pays off. Will check all the grounds again. The bit writer is key. Programming based on the number of times a button is pushed may not be the most accurate endeavor. Like I said earlier, determined to make this work. Thanks again for the help.

Now that it cranks long enough, turn the key to the on Run position and try and Remote start. Does it start?

If so then their is a +12v feed problem from the R/S "H3 Pink" to ignition vehicle wire "Pink".

Also how did you connect to the heavy gauge vehicle wires?

Did you use T-taps or did you strip back insulation?

If T-taps were used you could have a poor connection that gives good voltage reading with no load but drops out due to high resistance.

Stripped back the insulation with a tool. Used a poker to make a loop. Wrapped wire around bare wire at least four or five turns. Soldered. Taped. Zip tied. I hope that part is solid, but will check the wires indicated. Then will test with key. Thanks for the help and I am going to prevail. With help!

You got starter crank with R/S so if it starts with key on via R/S crank then it's a current issue with the R/S H3 Pink wire Circuit.

If H3 Pink is the issue the a work around is to use the H3 Pink/White for Ignition power and also hook up the H3 RED / White to power it. And see if the issue is resolved. Then you can check the resistance on the H3 Pink wire from Plug to Vehicle harness to rule out bad Pink wire, otherwise it's a internal connection or relay issue.

Then it's a matter of either replacing the Bad component with the seller or buying it yourself.

If it turns out to be the relay in brain and your stuck replacing the main Brain unit yourself a 1 way Alarm/Remote Start brain or complete system in the same series will be a exact replacement -
Models
Viper 5104
Clifford 510.4X
Python 514

In any given series they use the exact same brain for 1-way 2-way LE or 2-way SST Alarm/Remote Start just different antenna and remotes. If you want to retain the same Brand Name and/or Model# just pull the 4 screws and swap the outer plastic case from brain to brain.

You will also need to program the current remotes to the new brain, 1-way companion first then 2-way LCD remote. Everything else will be a plug and play swap.

Key on. Started like a champ with a little starter overrun. Will check wire connection for my error, and if that looks good , I will go through the steps mentioned above. KREG helped me put this model alarm in a vehicle I gave my son a few years back. I purchased one for the truck a couple years ago and my mom got sick a continent away. That ate up a lot of project time. No Warranty. Do you have a preference of those listed above? If it matters, I already have the bit writer. I actually enjoy the programming and wiring, but just would like to use the existing accessories with minimal effort at this point. The error part of "trial and error" is how I do most of my learning, but I want to finish this project.

Hooked the two wires up, made sure the flex relay was programmed correctly, nothing. Key on, started right up. Just to try all angles, went to program tach, nothing. It has programmed almost instantly before we tried the other methods to get it started. I am convinced the brain is the issue unless you think a reset deletion and reprogram will work. I tried this on three previous occasions. If I need to buy a new alarm, what is the latest and greatest. Is there a model that works well with an iPhone? I like the two way features and programming options. Willing to pay to complete my project. Or is the above mentioned models brain swap my best fix. The truck has been properly maintained and besides tires has cost me less than a thousand dollars. I am willing to spend the money to complete the project with some extras. I am running three sensors, the window and door modules, and a snake that blinds me flashing at night. Any suggestions with regards to the products you have installed? The site is awesome and will be receiving another donation for all the help it has offered. I found myself reading about issues that are unrelated to my install. I like the problem resolution aspect. Thanks again.

One last thing to try is to delete all remotes pull all power from unit, then repower and program remotes back to see it it make a difference some have had luck doing this!

All the listed models are made by DEI and use the same plug count wire count and internally are identical. Just different branding and model# for all three. Same goes for the 2-way LE Respopnder and the SST like you have. One brain for 9 different units. You can use the LCD remote from the Clifford or Python to replace you Viper remote, just different plastic external casing.

If you buy any of the above 1-way alarm/remote start and use you antenna and remotes, it's exactly the same as the model you bought.

If it's the H3 Red OR the H/3 Pink that is the issue. You can get those from any DEI Remote start H3 harness even the 6 pin 8 pin or 10 pin ones. Remove the needed wire from the plastic plug using a small flat eye glass or jewelers screw driver to bend the tang flat and pull it out, bend it back out and insert it into the plug.

If it's the brain its plug and play other than programming remotes.

If you don't care that the brain has Python or Clifford on it and you remotes Say Viper then do nothing but swap wire plugs to new unit and program remotes like I said above.

Are you sure the R/S is outputting voltage on the H3 Pink and Pink/White as these are 2 different relays inside the unit.

No luck. At this point I need to move on. The wires in the harness to where a connection would be are fine, so guessing that the harness is not the issue. The only 5104 models I could find are refurbished by manufacturer. Is this an issue? I see where it is identical to mine. It looks like the 5904 is the same harness structure. Replace harness and unit, the rest seems plug and play swappable. Is there a better Clifford or Python to swap with? Thanks for all the help.

Just to make sure I am testing them correctly. I have tested them at the connection to the harness and disconnected. There is no voltage change when the R/S is pushed in either of the connections. Pink or the Pink/White. All my grounds seem solid. Electronics have issues occasionally. More upset if the time I have spent is because of a faulty device. Made a donation and thanks again to everyone I have pilfered information from without your knowledge and especially lurch228. With a new item it looks like my project will be completed.

Looks like the 5906,5806,5706, and 5606v/p/x (v=Viper, p=Python, x=Clifford) will also work as a direct swap plug for plug. 5606 will be the cheapest to buy a whole system. So their is 4 Models in each brand that use the exact same brain, 12 options to get what you need.

This is the cheapest that I have found that will work to exactly replace your current brain.
Search this Item Number 131880491417 on ebay for the cheapest that I found.

Also this Item Nunber 142040813731 on ebay which is the exact same generation as yours.

Ordered the brain with harnesses. I am going to replace all the ignition harness items. Thanks for the answers, advice, and research. Guessing the 5606 programs exactly the same and looks like plug and play except for the harness I am going to replace. Will let you know the results when it comes in and I have swapped out.

All harnesses should be the same, you only need to replace the harness if really want too.

Ya'll spent a lot of time testing the pink wire connection and integrity.

Did you verify the RED wire INPUTS were good? Like the fuses, ect?

It's called teaching a man to fish IF you must know. He is learning by doing the work! Not trying to do the work for him, just point him in the right direction sight unseen. Or as other long time members call it just giving hints!

Received the new unit. Rewired remote start harness. Programmed. Started better than with the key. First shot. I did a dance around the garage with great happiness and came in to post my results. Thanks so much for helping me learn a few things about my alarm system. There are a Couple of additional things I would like to set up, but it does everything I could have wished for.

You welcome.

Lurch228 helped me figure out a number of items and things were working great. A little used truck started thirty to forty times using the remote start with all functions of the alarm performing and started blowing the fuse for the H3/8 flex relay. No wiring has been changed and checked to make sure all grounds are secure. New fuse lasted ten starts. If you look at my posts, I am willing to do the work, but do not know where to begin. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Rainy day and have a couple of days before my shift starts, want to hopefully correct.