2001 Nissan Micra K11, Installing Alarm

Hey guys, I bought a alarm kit off eBay.   It's got two solenoids for central locking, remotes ,immobiliser and alarm.

Throughout this post I am referring to my wiring diagram which I will try to upload but cannot do it ? Can I email it to somebody can they do it for me ? None of my questions below with a make sense unless they can see the diagram.

The car I am trying to fit it in is a Nissan Micra k11 2001 3dr no electric windows no central locking.    But it has factory immobiliser   



I understand a few basics of wiring but I'm still amateur.    can someone please give me   directions to get this installed. I have had a look at the wiring diagram and I have a few questions( The bits which are puzzling me)

Please don't laugh I am new to this.

1.Where do I get my 12 V Source from ? Off any constant?    Does it need to come from the fuse box ( like in some modern cars they have a fuse in the fuse box labelled central locking)

2. In the diagram it says at the top centre *manual* I don't understand where this needs to be wired

3. In the diagram the brown wire says flashlight    Where is this to be connected ?

4. The vehicle has a factory immobiliser, should I leave this in and not bother connecting the immobiliser bit in The diagram.

5. Why have they provided me with a relay where does this go ?

6.   Some of these wires I don't think are going to reach should I just extend Them?

7. Out of the brain unit the black wire which goes to 12 V source there is two blacks
Slightly confusing one goes to some picture that looks like a torch The other is ground   The last one is 12 V battery        Not sure how this works

8. I don't understand any of the ignition Part. But would i need this ?

9 why would I need to connect it to the footbrake do I need this again ?

Sorry for the list of questions.   But if somebody can make me understand that I reckon I can wire it up !   


I'm going to post the diagram and the kit I have Pics

This would be the shape before the current 2002 on?
If so.
1)Power source 12 V+ thick white at fuse box.
Earth (ground) to any mounting bolt above kick panels or battery NEG.

2) Manual refers to adding an internal switch to the central locking, SPCO momentary.

3) Your indicators, left and right (steering column loom).

4) Yes, leave it.

5) See number 4, but frankly if you don't understand even that, should you be attempting this?

6)Yes solder and insulate,shrink sleeving etc. Or position unit where they will reach.

7) Ignore and see my answer 1).

8) White to ignition MANDATORY, prevents unit turning on whilst driving.

9) No idea but may be connected to automatic locking in conjunction with the answer to 8).





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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

2001 k11 The shape changed after 2003 micra

Spco momunteray sorry what's this ?

So I'm looking at a thick white cable at the fuse box. Is this where I join my white cable from the brain?

Sorry what do you mean is MANDATORY me connecting up to the ignition system ?

Thank you so much for your reply.   I need a bit more detail on these things   


Anybody is willing to help Me. That Lives nearby much appreciated   I live in Leicester UK or if you have face time or Skype and are willing to help me I can give you my add.   Thanks guys I really need to get this done !😀

1.Where do I get my 12 V Source from ? Off any constant?    Does it need to come from the fuse box ( like in some modern cars they have a fuse in the fuse box labelled central locking)

This is always a 12v (+) battery constant on a wire large enough to handle the draw of the alarm system or direct to battery preferred for alarms.

2. In the diagram it says at the top centre *manual* I don't understand where this needs to be wired.

If you want to operate the central locking with a manual switch from inside the vehicle, location of your choice. Wired as in the diagram using the switch type listed.

3. In the diagram the brown wire says flashlight    Where is this to be connected ?

Blinkers(turn signals) wired to each side left and right after switch. Both brown wires are Positive then fuse symbol then light bulb (Indicating light) symbol and ground symbol. basicaly showing the circuits for each light side.

4. The vehicle has a factory immobilizer, should I leave this in and not bother connecting the immobilizer bit in The diagram.

Unless this unit has a anti-car jacking (theft) that would shut down the engine after a timed duration when activated. Some Chinese units call this Anit-Robbery and have a 18 seconds timed delay to ignition shutdown. If you want this feature then you would need to cut the ignition wire and hook in the provided relay.

5. Why have they provided me with a relay where does this go ?

Applies to 4 above.

6.   Some of these wires I don't think are going to reach should I just extend Them?

Once you have determined a location for the unit that the majority of the wires will reach. Then extend the ones that don't trying to match colors if you can.

7. Out of the brain unit the black wire which goes to 12 V source there is two blacks
Slightly confusing one goes to some picture that looks like a torch The other is ground   The last one is 12 V battery        Not sure how this works

This is new to me but would think that they are choices for the ground connection. As the first is the horn symbol the second is chassis ground and third is battery.

8. I don't understand any of the ignition Part. But would i need this ?

First part White alarm wire is required! The second for the segmented box (is a symbol of a relay short segmented ignition wire for where to cut, and right symbol is the coil) is a optional connection for the Engine cut-off. To cut the ignition 12v (ON) wire coming from the key if you use the the cut-off relay you would need to attach the White wire from the alarm to the key side of the cut ignition wire at the relay. Alarm yellow wire is ground for coil side of relay pin 85, pins 86 and 87a are both connected to key side of vehicle ignition wire with the White wire above, and vehicle side of cut ignition wire is connected to pin 30.

9. why would I need to connect it to the foot-brake do I need this again ?

With out reading the install guide it will probably be needed to enter programming mode as some of the Chinese unit use this for that purpose. Units that have Remote start will also use this to shutdown the Remote start as well.

Massive thanks to you is getting clearer !!


So this second white wire which goes to ignition key    Is that a must to connect ?
Or only if I'm going to use The hijack mode or immobiliser so to speak, is that correct ?

If so I think I'm going to leave it out.   So that middle connector I do not need to plug it in.   I will be not using power Windows or trunk   

Would this be okay ?

I am mainly doing this for the Remote Central locking.   I'm going to leave the manual switch Out should not affect the remote capability should it ?

Back to the first red wire.   You pointed out a thick enough cable or direct to battery.    Is there a special connector I can buy which enables me to wir e to the battery ?

OK coming back to this.
So this second white wire which goes to ignition key Is that a must to connect ?

Manual switch is irrelevant. Up to you.
Red wire to battery feed on fuse box (usually white) or constant to ignition switch. You have no need to run to the battery.
Also whilst you're in the steering column loom, the indicators are GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ black POS in that loom or at the hazard switch.
Door trigger is red in driver kick panel goes to blue on alarm.
PLEASE TEST All the above you only need a 12v+ test light for this car and I can take no responsibility, I haven't worked on this model in over 15 years.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

turbazzz wrote:

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Massive thanks to you is getting clearer !!


So this second white wire which goes to ignition key    Is that a must to connect ?

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Yes if you don't want the alarm to go off while driving down the road, siren blaring and lights flashing.

turbazzz wrote:

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Or only if I'm going to use The hijack mode or immobiliser so to speak, is that correct ?

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NO

turbazzz wrote:

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If so I think I'm going to leave it out.   So that middle connector I do not need to plug it in.   I will be not using power Windows or trunk   

Would this be okay ?

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NO

turbazzz wrote:

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I am mainly doing this for the Remote Central locking.   I'm going to leave the manual switch Out should not affect the remote capability should it ?

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No It's optional

turbazzz wrote:

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Back to the first red wire.   You pointed out a thick enough cable or direct to battery.    Is there a special connector I can buy which enables me to wir e to the battery ?

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If you primary goal is not Security only Central locking then use a Power and ground inside of vehicle. The point of going to battery is so if the battery wires are cut from underneath the vehicle the alarm will still have power.

Many thanks to both of you for helping me !

So taking 12v +. From the car stereo would this be okay ?   Will not burn anything out ?

And from the middle connector the only wire which I'm going to connect is white to 12v+.   Can again this be to the stereo

While connecting to the turn signals as you will already be there connect the white to the switched ignition and the Red to the battery positive feeding the ignition switch.

Not the stereo probably fuse limited follow what we both said before.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What you said before ? As in a thick enough cable to take the strain ?
Lost you now so... White to acc/on. Near the igniton barrel ?

Red to igniton? Is that again near ignition barrel or steering column is that not the same as a ACC     Or is one constant other works upon key.   Also I still don't need relay for this yeh?

There will be a 12v battery feed to ignition barrel and 2 switched wires 1 ignition and 1 Acc.

No relay needed for what you want.

Wait I think I got it Lol.   

First red wire to constant.   Underneath the steering column

Second white wire. Goes to ignition    ( ignition being as if you turn your key twice click)

Is this correct ? No need for the really yeh lol

Yes

Sorry I think my last post posted at the same time

So are these wires thicker? Is this why we use them

Yes

I mean I already have factory immobiliser which works off a blue-chip in the key, what IF ( big if lol) I want to install the alarms immobiliser function, how would this work.

Will the factory immobiliser have to be removed ? Surely you can't have two

Also guys what kind of wire should I use to extend The short leads? My local parts store sells 5amp wire?

I swore I'd never do this but don't post again:-
micra_99_2.png
That's everything. Mount under the instrument panel or even behind, 4 to 6 Philips No. 2 will pop the cowling and the gauges. 5 amp wire is fine.
The diodes are obtained at Maplin.
Out of interest the alarm will blow its fuse as soon as you activate, 10 amps for the indicators plus 15 for the locks. They should have built it with a separate power feed (15 amp fused) for the locks. Hence piece of garbage.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

turbazzz wrote:

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I mean I already have factory immobiliser which works off a blue-chip in the key, what IF ( big if lol) I want to install the alarms immobiliser function, how would this work.

Will the factory immobiliser have to be removed ? Surely you can't have two

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You can add as many as you want to have. And still leave the factory immobilizer. This china immobilizer interupts the ignition wire with the relay and has the hijack mode or immobiliser.

Hijack mode works by enabling it with the remote, leave key in running vehicle and yank remote off as you get out, thief drives away until timer runs out and ignition is shut off.
With no remote and a timed ride he ain't coming back for the remote. LOL

Final note make sure that you understand that @howie II and I have gone over what to do in great detail.

And that you have read repeatedly what we have said and understand what you are doing, and is at your own risk!

If your are not totally sure what you are doing stay away from cutting any factory vehicle wires until you do.

Can the old factory   Immobiliser be removed ? Or is this tapped in to ECU? Just curious that's all..

It's factory fitted Nats

What do I do with the wires I am not using just cut them short ?

What do I do with the double black one, because you said earlier its given me a choice of earth. Should I join both wires in separate places ?

Also do you know The yellow wire, I don't need this right ? Is it okay to cut this short...

howie ll wrote:

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The diodes are obtained at Maplin.

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I will not need this i'm not installing trunk or bonnet switch.

But do i need it for Side door switch ?

No and yes if the supplied relay doesn't have one.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

turbazzz wrote:

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Can the old factory   Immobiliser be removed ? Or is this tapped in to ECU? Just curious that's all..

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Not easily as its part of the ECU you would need to have the ECU re-flashed with the NATS delete which would require sending it out to somone that has done it before.

turbazzz wrote:

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howie ll wrote:

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The diodes are obtained at Maplin.

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I will not need this i'm not installing trunk or bonnet switch.

But do i need it for Side door switch ?

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On your vehicle, ,You only need to diode trigger inputs when connecting more than 1 trigger.

If you install the starter immobilizer relay in @howie II diagram and it doesn't have a diode pre wired you will need to add one.

What do I do with the wires I am not using just cut them short ?

What do I do with the double black one, because you said earlier its given me a choice of earth. Should I join both wires in separate places ? I think you said the first symbol was horn,ground then batt

Also do you know The yellow wire, I don't need this right ? Is it okay to cut this short...


Okay so you said the five amp wire is good to use but some of these things have higher fuses like 15amps.   Or does it not work like this...

Also guys I really appreciate you replying to me,   may seem as ridiculous questions but it's making me understand now.   With the information I have obtained I feel pretty confident now    I will be testing each wire as I go along, and making sure I do things neatly, tie wraps and soldering joints along in making sure every think is discreet and hidden.

If anybody search this installation May help them also! Great stuff cheers.

Don't cut them, tape them up neatly.
You'll need the yellow if you use the starter cut relay.
Do NOT do an ignition cut, too dangerous if anything works loose and you're driving at speed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Do NOT do an ignition cut, too dangerous if anything works loose and you're driving at speed.

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What you mean by this? Dont cut igniton wire?

I thought you guys to told me underneath the steering column find ignition cut that and join it.

Nope. Ignition cuts are too risky driving along and the joint fails?
Only ever do starter cuts, if you follow my diagram you'll see I showed a starter cut.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Completely confused now.

I'm getting confused in the terminology maybe, are we talking about ignition as in the barrel or igniton as a wire

Because my fundamentals and terminology is probably wrong am getting confused.

Ok so I'm going to tell you what I understand you can correct me if needed

So we have acc, igniton,constant [wires]

Acc-- when you turn the key one turn you get power in this wire

Ignition-- when you turn the key to turns


Constant-- has power when the vehicle has no key at all times


Now you want me to wire to the cables which are going to the barrel ( underneath the steering )

Red to a constant 12v wire

White to acc or ignition.


That's what I understood until the last post!    Now are you saying don't touch ignition wires

Sorry am lost

You forgot the starter wire that's the BLACK/ PINK in the diagram you should have looked at by now.That's the one you cut for the immobiliser.
You connect the alarm's WHITE wire to the BLACK/ RED ignition wire.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so there's another wire starter.   I will not be joining anything to this though Would i?
I'm not using imobiliser function

You said earlier ignition cuts are too risky only ever do starter.   What do you mean by this?
Because I'm not using the immobiliser function or relay which is supplied. Does this still apply

I know you said join white wire to ignition but why does the manual say ACC ?

Also I'm going to be doing all the joining underneath the steering column on the ignition harness ? This is okay ?

turbazzz wrote:

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Ok so there's another wire starter.   I will not be joining anything to this though Would i?
I'm not using imobiliser function

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NO, since your not using the imbolizer you don't need to cut any vehicle wires for starter or (ignition, told not to do by howie II)!

turbazzz wrote:

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You said earlier ignition cuts are too risky only ever do starter.   What do you mean by this?
Because I'm not using the immobiliser function or relay which is supplied. Does this still apply

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NO
If you don't make a good reliable connections to the ignition wires they can fail while driving causing the engine to stop losing power to electric power steering and hydraulic pressure on engine driven power steering vehicles.

turbazzz wrote:

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I know you said join white wire to ignition but why does the manual say ACC ?

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Manual says ACC/ON which is only when the ignition is in the on position. Chinese manual translations not the greatest to work from.

turbazzz wrote:

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Also I'm going to be doing all the joining underneath the steering column on the ignition harness ? This is okay ?

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Where ever it works for you as long as the connection is made it doesn't matter where.

So I'm supposed to connect the white wire to ignition, but you're telling me not to cut the ignition wire ? How am i supposed to join it without cutting into it ?

Howie said in the previous message use the starter not igniton! He is fully aware I'm not using the alarms immobiliser function, why would he say to use this to confuse matters...

Watch this video.
Alarm Remote Start Video

Yes I get that video I've seen similar videos on YouTube... My question is why did he say don't cut ignition wire?

And Telling me to use starter


Are you trying to say don't cut thr wire? Splice through the middle???

Only cut the starter if you're adding an immobiliser.
Join to IGN not ACC that's a translation/cultural error from the Chinese.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

turbazzz wrote:

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Yes I get that video I've seen similar videos on YouTube... My question is why did he say don't cut ignition wire?

And Telling me to use starter

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lurch228 wrote:

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If you don't make a good reliable connections to the ignition wires they can fail while driving causing the engine to stop losing power to electric power steering and hydraulic pressure on engine driven power steering vehicles.

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So you were told to use the safer method of using starter wire if you wanted another immobilizer.

turbazzz wrote:

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Are you trying to say don't cut thr wire? Splice through the middle???

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Yes exactly!
Maintain the integrity of the vehicle wires!   

Think of thread through the eye of the needle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay armed with the knowledge started the job this evening after work !
Found it enjoyable flew through it! Then I got stuck Lol.

Every thing is connected apart from indicators i have two brown wires of the brain.
And door switch is also not connected.

Reason why am stuck is I don't know wire it is.   I had a look at the colours you mentioned earlier there is not that colour.

How do I find these connections ?    I even tried to trace down from the indicator stalk But no luck.


Also what is the testing method for these wires. Is it. Find a decent earth then put the positive terminal from my multimeter on the cable and Open the door ? Should give 12v ?   Signal left should give 12v?

"Also what is the testing method for these wires. Is it. Find a decent earth then put the positive terminal from my multimeter on the cable and Open the door ? Should give 12v ? Signal left should give 12v?"
Indicators, go to the wires of the colours I mentioned.
Will show 12V+ as blinking, else rear of hazard flasher.
Door trigger go to dome light or remove door switch. POS (red) lead on meter to a 12V source, open door and if you have the correct wire it will then go from 0v to 12v.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Behind the hazard switch.. I have two brown wires to connect, shall I just put them in together behind the hazard?

If I remove the door switch, does it matter which side ? It's a two-door car. The other side opens will it trigger the alarm ?

Behind the hazard switch.. I have two brown wires to connect, shall I just put them in together behind the hazard?
Not quite they have to go to each indicator since you couldn't find them in the steering column loom I've simply given you another easier choice, the haz switch only having 5 or 6 wires. A constant 12V+, an ignition, a ground plus LEFT and RIGHT (test) plus one other. TEST.

If I remove the door switch, does it matter which side ? It's a two-door car. The other side opens will it trigger the alarm ?

No, not on that car.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So no point me wiring from the door switch. Because if the other door which i have not wired opens, it wont trigger.

Seems like dome light seems better. So underneath the roof lining? Another thing the interior lights have 3 positions. On/door/off. Does that matter.

It's a shame I can't just find these things underneath the steering column.. Unless I pierce each one with a needle? And find them. What do you reckon...

According to the legend 71 72 are turn indicators And are Left- GREEN/ Black and Right- GREEN/ YELLOW
Door switch is tied to passenger also so you only need the RED / Green to alarm.



Here is the link to the whole wiring diagram:Nissan Micra K11 2000-03

I will have a look again tomorrow or weekend.   The door switch is that in a different diagram ?

Updated previous post to include the door trigger wire. It's in Diagram 6 Legend 14 driver and 93 Passenger.

Okay I found the door trigger cable underneath the steering column, when I connected the alarm does not work properly, disconnected works fine ???

Indicator lights work a treat !   Just don't know what to do with the door   Switch

Oh just track that wire back from your door switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

There is three wires which one should I connect

Test, when the door is open one will go to earth. Set meter to 20VDC, red probe on constant live, black probe to suspect wire, you will get 12.2 or thereabouts when you have the correct wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

turbazzz wrote:

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There is three wires which one should I connect

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You found 3 wires that are RED / Green stripe that test (Change state) when door is opened?

Like howie II said when door is closed you will not see any voltage on DMM With one probe connected to known +12v and the other on suspect RED / Green wire. When door is opened you will Read +12v on DMM

All done now and tested   Thanks guys! Works !

Good, now you know the basics and can get it done!

Where do you guys get your wiring diagrams From?

turbazzz wrote:

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Where do you guys get your wiring diagrams From?

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Also Google searches of Forums that cater to specific vehicles or brands.