Viper 4806v, 2013 Tacoma without bypass

2013 Toyota Tacoma - 4 cyl Non-G key

I may have made an error in doing my research. I have been under the assumption that I didn't need a bypass but after installing my Viper 4806 today I discovered that the remote start doesn't engage the starter.

I have learned the tach. My tach wire is connected to the obd2 pin.
I have selected automatic transmission mode in menu 3, item 1, option 2.
Before I gave up for the evening to have dinner, I did a diagnostic and it gave me the 3 flash (low or no RPM).
The truck starts if the key is used. If the remote start is pressed while the truck is running and the key removed, the truck continues to run until it's stopped via key fob.

In searching similar problems here on the12volt I came across a few similar threads but their setups all reference having a bypass of some sort. Am I mistaken that I didn't need a bypass for my remote start system? Any feedback would be helpful, thank you.

I would have done more research on my own but I've been relegated to the Quick Reference install guide, the user manual and a tacoma specific wire diagram (I believe from bulldog).

Try this for the Tach and see if it makes a difference:

2013 Toyota Tacoma Remote Start Wiring Instructions

Vehicle Battery Positive Wire (+): WHITE/ Blue and WHITE/ Red
Vehicle Battery Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Vehicle Ignition Wire (+): Blue / YELLOW
Vehicle Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Vehicle Second Ignition Wire (+): BLACK/ Red
Vehicle Second Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Vehicle Accessory Wire (+): WHITE/ Green
Vehicle Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Vehicle Second Accessory Wire (+): N/A
Vehicle Second Accessory Wire Location: N/A

Automobile Engine Starter Wire (+): BLACK/ White
Automobile Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire (-): GREEN/ Black
Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Factory Anti-Theft System: Vehicle Key Immobilizer
Factory Anti-Theft System Type: Key Sends a RF Signal to the BCM Module

Crankshaft Sensor Wire: N/A
Crankshaft Sensor Wire Location: N/A

Camshaft Sensor Wire: N/A
Camshaft Sensor Wire Location: N/A

Car Key Sense Wire (-): GREEN/ Black
Car Key Sense Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness

Car Neutral Safety Wire (-): N/A
Car Neutral Safety Wire Location: N/A

Car Tachometer Wire (-): BLACK/ White
Car Tachometer Wire Location: At Under Dash Fuse Box

Car Speed Sense Wire: N/A
Car Speed Sense Wire Location: N/A

Car Parking Lights Wire (-): Green
Car Parking Lights Wire Location: At Under Dash Fuse Box

Car Brake Lights Wire (+): Blue
Car Brake Lights Wire Location: At Brake Switch Above Brake Pedal

Car Reverse Lights Wire (+): Red
Car Reverse Lights Wire Location: In Harness in Passenger Kick Panel

Car Horn Wire (-): GREEN/ Red
Car Horn Wire Location: At Under Dash Fuse Box

Car Rear Defrost Wire: N/A
Car Rear Defrost Wire Location: N/A

Otherwise hold the head of the key against the cylinder with out inserting the blade then try and remote start. If it starts and stays running you need a transponder bypass like the PKALL.

Verified that my key isn't chipped, no result. Same 3 startup cycle without crank when my key was near the ignition.

My violet/white tach input is connected to the BLACK/ white wire, though it was found at the obd2 port, near the dash fuse panel, not in it. I looked through the connectors there and there doesn't appear to be a BLACK/ white wire amongst the fuse box so I'll assume I have the correct location.

Still returns a 3-flash, no or low rpm code.

Well the 3 flash code seems to have resolved itself or been replaced with what is now a 7-flash timer mode/turbo timer/manual mode error.
The difficulty and frustration in programming this with the control center really makes me want to buy a bit writer in hopes that it would help me overcome and errors I'm having.

Need to make sure it's set to auto trans mode, as if it has manual tran option it will be set to it by default.

Other things to check that weren't missed!

Neutral saftey switch plugged in and in the on position.

24 Pin 13 BLACK/ WHITE*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT *** Ground this wire for automatic transmission vehicles.

Verify Tach with DMM set to AC or DC then ground one probe and look for voltage change with RPM change.

Could you list your wire connections from the Viper to the truck.

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If you probe the Purple starter wire with DMM when Remote starting is it going to +12v?

I get no volt change at tach connection on RPM change. As I've said before I Made a connection to the obd2 port and this may be incorrect.

I'm getting 12v to the purple starter wire in the 3 start sequence. Just no engine start.

My diagnostic after yields a 3 flash and a 5 flash error.

I've gotten my bitwriter and since programmed and verified the automatic transmission mode.

My connections are as follows.

Main Harness 6-Pin connector
Red 12V Constant Input - WHITE/ blue 12v constant at ignition harness
black ground - common ground to chassis bolt
brown horn honk output - unused and capped
WHITE/ brown light flash isolation - unused and capped
white light flash relay - unused and capped
orange ground when armed output - unused and capped

door lock 3-pin
unused awaiting Spal door lock install

Remote start 8-pin
RED / black 12v constant - WHITE/ blue 12v constant at ignition harness
pink/black flex relay - unused and capped
pink/white ignition 2 - blue yellow ignition wire
red 12v for ignition 1 - WHITE/ blue constant 12v @ ignition
violet starter output - BLACK/ white @ ignition harness
orange acc output - WHITE/ green @ ignition harness
RED / white 12 constant - WHITE/ blue 12v constant @ ignition harness
pink ignition 1 - BLACK/ red @ ignition harness

aux/shutdown 24-pin
Gray hood pin - unwired, finding suitable location still
violet/white tach - to OBD2 port in what i previously suspected was the tach wire
black white neutral safety/parking brake input - grounded to common ground.
the rest are capped and unused.

Valet mode works. I can hit the remote start button, take the key out and the car will continue to run and successfully shut down with another key-fob press.

You will need to add another relay for the second starter.
The second accessory probably won't need to be hooked up for remote start. As long as heating controls work as normal when remote started.
If it didn't need the second starter it wouldn't have been listed. The second accessory can be for power seat memory and other options not absolutely needed for Remote Start, IE optional!

This is the Tachwire for a 2016 Tacoma Test with DMM AC mode to see if yours is the same.
Tachometer   beige ac data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9
Otherwise you need to find the BLACK/ White.

This shows the Second Starter with additional relay.
Your Violet / YELLOW is 21 not 18 as in the diagram.
86 and 87 connection to battery is fused with 30amp fuse.

Awesome, I'll test various data port/obd pins till I find the tach and wire up a relay and report back. Thank you for your help!

No problem.

Tach wire ended up being correct and after I successfully wired up the relay and reprogrammed the unit, it all works flawlessly! Thank you so much everyone for the help.

Your welcome.

justrob wrote:

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Tach wire ended up being correct and after I successfully wired up the relay and reprogrammed the unit, it all works flawlessly! Thank you so much everyone for the help.

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Just for clarification which color was the Tach wire that worked?