Print Page | Close Window

2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Door Locks, Trunk Non-Op

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=141707
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 5:25 AM


Topic: 2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Door Locks, Trunk Non-Op

Posted By: phrost-bite
Subject: 2013 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Door Locks, Trunk Non-Op
Date Posted: September 11, 2016 at 10:52 AM

2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 Track

This morning I was wiring up some Blue LED's in the trunk. I wired up a relay off of the trunk lid light. It is a negative trigger switch. Everything appeared to be working fine and the LED's turned on/off as I opened/ closed the latch. As I was rewiring my amp/ capacitor I noticed the lights were dimming and could hear something trying to actuate. After deeper investigation I found that the locks and trunk switch in the car no longer work and the dash is indicating trunk/ doors are open. The key fob still functions. I've disconnected all the new connections I made and checked fuses with no luck. I think I fried the door lock module... Any Ideas? Did I need to diode isolate the trunk light? I hope a new module doesn't cost too much... I was saving up for some coilovers



Replies:

Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: September 11, 2016 at 3:01 PM
You should never use sensing wire to ground items only use them to ground a relay coil for control.




Posted By: phrost-bite
Date Posted: September 11, 2016 at 3:23 PM
The sensing wire was not used to ground anything. The sensing wire was used to ground the relay (pin 86) like you have suggested. That is why I find this to be so strange because nothing is tied into that wire. I was only using that wire to control the relay.




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: September 12, 2016 at 10:14 PM
phrost-bite wrote:

The sensing wire was not used to ground anything. The sensing wire was used to ground the relay (pin 86) like you have suggested. That is why I find this to be so strange because nothing is tied into that wire. I was only using that wire to control the relay.
I usually use the positive and negative for the trunk light for relay control.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 14, 2016 at 5:52 PM
Yet once again, why a relay for LED lights? I've two X 15" multi LED tubes in the roof of my van, wired at the cargo area dome light, no relays never a problem.
As for your locks check the fuses by removing each,one at a time and use your DMM continuity tester to test them.
If you persist in using a relay mount a 1N4004 diode band to + side of the coil which should be 86 not 85, band to 86,
That would have solved the problem, or rather prevented it from happening.
Out of interest try disconnecting the vehicle battery for 20 minutes.
That might reboot the lock module.


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: September 14, 2016 at 10:41 PM
He was trying to use the trunk trigger to ground the relay.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 15, 2016 at 2:47 AM
Which in theory should have worked except I just realised these wires I was using was a BCM OUTPUT from the module to the lamp, not direct switching!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: lurch228
Date Posted: September 15, 2016 at 3:05 AM
There's a good chance he fried the module or BCM input depending on what the trigger for the trunk hooks to.





Print Page | Close Window