BMW 556uw bypass wiring

2003 BMW 330xi manual transmission

556uw
Gallo Tech push button starter 3

So I installed the push start and then I installed the bypass module 556uw.

Car won't start but it will turn on all the accessories when I use the push to start button. If I insert the key to the second position (acc), the push button works flawless. I'm assuming that it's the bypass module. I used both first and second options (both options without the module sensor ring). Second option is what I have read works with this car (European). I cut one wire from the factory sensor ring, attach the black wire to the ews side and tied the BLACK/ white and BLACK/ red to the factory sensor ring side.

My question is, does this vehicle have a key sensor and if it does which wire is it (vehicle) and if it's negative (green wire from module) or positive (violet wire from module)

Or am I missing something entirely or a better way of doing this?

Model # GTS–3 (without Remote Start) Push to Start for wire colors!

Did you put working sacrificial transponder key in box?

Made connection to the Bypass (-) status Blue turn on wire from the WHITE/ Red Disarm (GWR) of Push to start?

Connect ignition wire (Brown) from Push to start to Bypass (Pink) Ignition input also, as it may be required to keep the Bypass live while vehicle is running for BMW?

Post back if you still have problems with all the connections you have made between the Bypass, Push to Start and the Vehicle.

Thank you Lurch228

Yes, a brand new transponder key and tested to work with no issues. (it was a real tight fit and I may have to retro fit the cover)

GTS-3 Connections

GTS= Red --BMW Ignition Harness =RED / Green 12 Volt Constant.
GTS= Blue ACC --BMW Ignition Harness =Purple (IGN 2).
GTS= Brown (Ign1)--BMW Ignition Harness =Green (IGN 1).
GTS= Orange (starter)--BMW Ignition Harness =BLACK/ Blue (Starter).
GTS= PURPLE / white (start enable input-)-- BMW Clutch Pedal Harness.
GTS= WHITE/ red (GWR) ---556UW=blue

556UW= jumper mode 2
556UW= antenna BLACK/ white & BLACK/ red (cut) BMW Transponder Ring side
556UW= antenna black (cut) BMW transceiver side
556UW= Black to ground
556UW= Red to constant 12volt
556UW= blue to GTS=WHITE/ red (GWR)

Pink wire has no effect with the GTS brown wire (IGN 1)

I didn't bother listing connections for door locks/trunk unless you think it may help.

I was pretty sure I tested the ACC/IGN1 on the vehicle with a volt meter but on paper is sure looks like its backwards...That would be the first thing Ill check and the second is possibly the clutch pedal - PURPLE / white may have been connected to the wrong wire of the 4 available...no info on which one is a negative trigger

let me know what you think....its a midnight project after work so lack of sleep and light may contribute to my mental handicap

Foot Brake is needed to enter start mode for the push to start system.
Don't see where you have it as being hooked up to the push to start?

C3/18 BLACK/ White FootBrake input (+12v)

Also need to hook up C3/13 White (Option 2) to additional relay to power the Ign 2 and hook up the Blue ACC wire to vehicle ACC wire for proper operation.

Well I tested both wires IGN 1 and IGN 2 on the car, and they are both constant 12 volt when the engine is on. I switched them, I treated bmw IGN 1 as GTS ACC and bmw IGN 2 as GTS IGN 1. Same outcome.

There is only 5 wires to work with.

RED / green and RED / blue = constant 12 volts
Starter = BLACK/ blue
Ignition 1 = Green
Ignition 2 = Purple

I am wondering if setting some of the functions on the GTS (Manual transmission) need to be turned on/off (ignition 2 off/on during engine start). Not sure if it matters since I didn't use/have that option.

sorry I was posting before I saw your reply

I will hook up the brake again (BLACK/ white...wasn't sure if that was just an automatic transmission safety issue.

Nothing I have read or found lists an acc in a wiring diagram which is why its confusing and both ign1 and ign2 are testing like an acc (key in position 2) as an acc and both are constant when the engine is running (position 3).

I'm off to do the foot break and get a relay ready for ignition 2

Directwire

2003 BMW 3 Series - North America

Remote Start, Security, Keyless Entry, Accessories

Item     Wire Color    Polarity   Wire Location


12 Volts RED / green and RED / blue + ignition harness


Starter BLACK/ blue + ignition harness


Ignition green + ignition harness


Second Ignition purple + ignition harness


Power Lock blue/red - 54 pin plug, pin 22 at general mod


Power Unlock WHITE/ black - 54 pin plug, pin 20 at general mod


Lock Motor white (any one of 5) 5wi 54 pin plug at general module


Driver Unlock Motor blue 5wi 54 pin plug, pin 35 at general mod


Passenger Unlock Motor (chassis ground)   


Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock   


Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock   


Parking Lights (-) see Tech Doc 1055   


Left Front Door Trigger RED / blue + 54 pin plug, pin 18 at general mod


Dome Light comes on with unlock   


Trunk/Hatch Pin WHITE/ brown - driver kick panel


Hood Pin PURPLE / green - 26 pin plug, pin 7 at general mod


Trunk/Hatch Release gray/green + 54 pin plug, pin 17 at general mod


Tachometer black ac diagnostic plug


Speed Sense YELLOW /GREEN ac instrument cluster, 26 pin plug, pin 19


Brake Wire BROWN / gray or BROWN / white (funct with ign on only) + brake pedal switch


Horn Trigger PURPLE / blue + horn relay


Left Front Window (Up/Down) see notes   


Sun Roof (Open/Close) see notes   

Notes:
1. Power Lock_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

2. Power Unlock_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left. On some models, unlock may require a double pulse.

3.Lock Motor_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

4.Driver Unlock Motor_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

5. Parking Lights (-)_Need to remove the light switch module from the dash and pop off the front cover. A ribbon cable which connects the switch to the module will be exposed. With the switch facing towards you, you need to interrupt the fourth wire from the left with a relay. When interrupted the parking lights will comes on.

6. Left Front Door Trigger_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

7. Hood Pin_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

8. Trunk/Hatch Release_The general module is a white box located behind the glove box. The 54 pin plug is the center plug, and the 26 pin plug is the one on the left.

9. Tachometer_The diagnostic plug is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If the vehicle does not have the diagnostic plug then the black wire can be found at the data link connector under the driver side dash.

10. Speed Sense_It has to be a single wire. If twisted pair, do not use, it is a CAN wire.

11. Horn Trigger_The horn relay is above the general module. It is the green relay to the right of an orange relay.

12. Left Front Window (Up/Down)_Extended triggers on the door lock wires will roll the windows up/down and open/close the sunroof. Use validity channels to control.

13. Sun Roof (Open/Close)_Extended triggers on the door lock wires will roll the windows up/down and open/close the sunroof. Use validity channels to control.

The foot break BMW BROWN / white with the GTS BLACK/ white(13)and I have a relay white is hooked up again to ignition 2 BMW purple wire..no result. relay is functioning as intended. Am I not tapping into the correct ACC wire? GTS blue to BMW ignition 1 (green)?

If both Ign wires work the same with key the you will need to Enable Ign2 to Duplicate the the action of Ign1. In the Table 1 "Function Option Chart on (page 8). Set 2 to Enabled during Engine start.

malevolent wrote:

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The foot break BMW BROWN / white with the GTS BLACK/ white(13)and I have a relay white is hooked up again to ignition 2 BMW purple wire..no result. relay is functioning as intended. Am I not tapping into the correct ACC wire? GTS blue to BMW ignition 1 (green)?

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Since you vehicle has no ACC it won't be used and can be taped off. Order of ignition wires shouldn't matter if they do the exact same thing in every position including the start position. but following the standard is always best.
GTS IGN1 to Green, and GTS IGN2 Relay 30 to Purple, 86 and 87 to constant Battery +12v, and 85 to C3/13 White IGN2 output (-).

Relay diagram is labeled backwards for 85 and 86 from the standard convention!

Remember to change the IGN2 to enabled so it matches the key cylinder.

Just a small wiring update..(mostly for my own piece of mind)

GTS= Red --BMW Ignition Harness =RED / Green 12 Volt Constant.
GTS= Blue ACC --Taped Off (not in use due to no ACC).
GTS= Brown (Ign1)--BMW Ignition Harness =Purple (IGN 2).
GTS= Orange (starter)--BMW Ignition Harness =BLACK/ Blue (Starter).
GTS= PURPLE / white (start enable input-)-- BMW Clutch Pedal Harness.
GTS= BLACK/ white (foot break)-- BMW foot break (+ when depressed).
GTS= white (ign output)--BMW relay/purple wire (ign2)
GTS= WHITE/ red (GWR) ---556UW=blue

*note Relay will be rewired as you stated


556UW= jumper mode 2
556UW= antenna BLACK/ white & BLACK/ red (cut) BMW Transponder Ring side
556UW= antenna black (cut) BMW transceiver side
556UW= Black to ground
556UW= Red to constant 12volt
556UW= blue to GTS=WHITE/ red (GWR)
556UW= pink to BMW= green (ign1)

cant edit, but lets just say between you and me that I taped off the blue wire on the GTS and used the green wire (bmw ign1) and connected it to the brown GTS (ign 1) wire =P

When clutch is fully depressed the output needs to be (-) negative for it to work.
Test with DMM on DC and 1 probe to ground and check for voltage on clutch wires, both without key in start(ON) and in start to verify polarity and output.
If all clutch switch wires test positive when fully depressed you will need to convert the switched side output when fully depressed to negative with a relay.
85 and 87 to ground, 86 to (+)clutch out, and 30 to C3/14 PURPLE / White Start Enable Input (-).

I didn't get to double check the clutch yet, but I did change the relay and taped off the blue GTS acc wire...the results are....as soon as I press the button it goes into its on cycle the the egine start starts but it doesn't turn the engine over...so I say the bypass works.

button is also acting different..not sure if it was intended...you now have to hold the button..displays on, then you have to press it again and engage the starter..if you let go it stops the starter...so depending on how long you hold the button the starter will keep trying to start the engine...hope that makes sence

Hold button for 1.5 seconds with no brake or clutch turns on the ignition. Repeat turn it off.
From Off Apply brake and clutch and push and hold to crank until started.

Just tried what you said..it cranks, but doesn't want to start. the longer you hold it down the longer it cranks...just no engine start. I havent double checked the clutch or the foot break polarity.

IF it cranks then the clutch and brake requirements are being met as they won't stop the engine from starting if it cranks.
So there is a bypass issue that is not de-activating the immobilizer allowing the injectors and/or the coil(s) to fire.
If you hold the head of the key next to the key cylinder will it start.

Well your not going to believe this, I went ahead and tried it again and o realized I forgot to put the relay back in the relay harness....I must be tired. Regardless, went ahead and tried it again with the relay and no cranking this time. Took the relay off and still the same issue, no cranking. Going to check the wiring by the break pedal and the clutch just in case I snagged it while trying to test it.

I need sleep it's 4am. I'm not sure, but is the relay suppose to be engaged even when the car is off? I'll check the wiring tomorrow. Key turns the car on with no issues. Key around or in the key cylinder is not making a difference to answer your question.

Your awesome, I would have never gotten this far.
I'll post back tomorrow...err today after work on my progress

Thank you so much

You haven't said if you changed the GTS setting for IGN2 to enabled or not just making sure it didn't get missed, easy to forget things when you tired. I know I do!

malevolent wrote:

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I need sleep it's 4am. I'm not sure, but is the relay suppose to be engaged even when the car is off? I'll check the wiring tomorrow. Key turns the car on with no issues. Key around or in the key cylinder is not making a difference to answer your question.

Your awesome, I would have never gotten this far.
I'll post back tomorrow...err today after work on my progress

Thank you so much

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C3/13 White to 85 of relay should only be grounded when GTS is on.

By -pass doesn't need to be kept running once engine has fired.
Do you need to hold the foot brake down to start?
If so you break the secondary circuit, brown in BROWN / grey out relay fed from a second starter wire.
That's how the Euro version with paddle shifts work.
Light green is the primary, i.e. ignition 1 but purple wire at ignition is actually ACC but is used in starting.
Obtain and use a grey plastic VALET key from a BMW dealer use that in the 556, it will eliminate a host of problems apart from being about $40 here in the UK, much cheaper than using the $200+ OEM key.
Done literally 100s of R/Starts on these with no problems and BTW you should have two constants both red primary at the ignition switch loom, use both if you can to share the load.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes @howie II the Gallo Tech GTS3 PUSH-to-START Needs both (+) input footbrake and also needs (-) input from clutch to activate the PTS.

The GTS 3 has defualt (Disabled) setting of IGN2 (-)output external relay control act as ACC, or Enabled act like IGN1.

Manual or auto?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

He has a manual.

Manual transmissions for Europe are as rare as rocking horse droppings and never had a clutch switch so disregard what I said about the brake switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

PTS on a manual trans 2003 BMW 330xi, it can be done but there are a few hurdles to get over as it's not a common project.

A couple of things to go over!
Split the load between the 2 Feed wires!
GTS RED to vehicle RED / Green
IGN2 relay 87 to vehicle RED / Blue

Things to verify!

1. Do the Ignition Green and Starter BLACK/ Blue come on is "ACC" and stay on in the "ON" and "CRANK" positions with the key?
If not then list what each dose in each position.

2. Check to see if the GTS "IGN2" relay comes on in the PTS "ACC" position. We need to match what the key does with the PTS.
If the PTS "ACC" turns on the IGN2 relay and the key in "ACC" turns them both on, then we need to modify the IGN2 relay connections by powering the relay 86 from the IGN1 wire. So the relay turns on at the same time as the IGN1 does. Matching the key switch.

3. Verify GTS FUNCTION OPTION CHART for Manual Trans mode and IGN2 to "Enabled" (Ignition 2 ON during Engine start)

Once the PTS matches the key functions and the PTS Starter cranks the Engine when the brake and clutch is pressed, then if still no engine start(RUN) that leaves the bypass to sort out.

Key in RED / Green and RED / Blue (?) 12V+
Key position ACC above and Violet (purple) 12v+
Key position to IGN, Above and Light Green to 12V+
Key to start (run, crank etc.) All of the above plus Blue/Black.
BMW, apart from some Porsches are the only manufacturer to have ACC at 12V+ during the crank cycle.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Based on howie II's Ignition list. The vehicle ACC comes on first then IGN with ACC, then Start(CRANK) with ACC and IGN.

Leaving all connections as they are. You will also need to connect the GTS Blue ACC wire to the 87a of IGN2 relay so it will power the Vehicle ACC until GTS IGN2 Activates taking over powering the vehicle ACC including the Start. Thus Matching the key switch.

If the IGN2 relay is staying on all the time and the C3/13 White is not turning off. Wire the IGN2 86 to IGN1 in stead of constant +12v.
Then when GTS IGN1 comes on it powers the coil to turn on GTS IGN2 to take over from the GTS ACC So vehicle ACC stays on during START(CRANK).

You can get a better solid 12V+ for + brake switch output at the rear of the lighting switch, comes out easily BLACK/ green, or BLACK/ blue.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, I didn't read anything after this morning and went right to checking the wiring after work. I did confirm everything as far as wiring and I ran into some issues or should I say realization.

This car is so old I guess and the key ignition cylinder worn, that you cant even feel a missed position. after testing and turning the key real slow, I noticed there was a position for acc. so that was my fault but my original wiring should have been correct if that was the case.

position 1 acc triggers the purple wire 12 volts
position 2 IGN 1 triggers the green wire 12 volts with acc on
final position 3 (crank) triggers the blue black with acc and ign1 on

exactly like Howie said.

I tried checking the IGN2 C3/13 white wire on the GTS was enabled through the programing section (1-8) #2 but for some reason the valet switch is no longer working with no visible issues of faulty wiring.

The relay switch is not triggering at all to the c3/13 wire and I even tried rewiring it per their discription just incase. If I cant confirm if the c3/13 or change the function option for C3/13 than I cant see going forward on this without finding/fixing the issue with the valet switch.

I'm also not getting any kind of reading from the C1/Orange starter wire even with the key in position 2, which would let me start the car with the push button before installing the 556UW (only had one key at the time)

Current wiring:
GTS= (C1)Red --BMW Ignition Harness =RED / Green 12 Volt Constant.
GTS= (C1)Blue ACC --BMW Ignition Harness =Purple (ACC). *556UW pink wire and relay #30 (ign2)
GTS= (C1)Brown (Ign1)--BMW Ignition Harness =Green (IGN 1).
GTS= (C1)Orange (starter)--BMW Ignition Harness =BLACK/ Blue (Starter).
GTS= (C3/14)PURPLE / white (start enable input-)-- BMW Clutch Pedal Harness.
GTS= (C3/18)BLACK/ white (foot break input-)-- BMW foot break Pedal Harness (BROWN / yellow).
GTS= (C3/17)WHITE/ red (GWR) ---556UW=blue
GTS= (C3/13)white(IGN2) relay #85
Relay power #86/87 is tapped into the RED / blue of the ignition harness

Everything else works as far as the GTS..doorlocks/rfid.

I did not hookup an aux/horn/siren/parking lights or any other possible features till I get the push start feature working.

howie ll wrote:

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You can get a better solid 12V+ for + brake switch output at the rear of the lighting switch, comes out easily BLACK/ green, or BLACK/ blue.

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That's a great idea, if I get this working I can do the relay/parking lights C3/12 at the same time.

lurch228 wrote:

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You will also need to connect the GTS Blue ACC wire to the 87a of IGN2 relay so it will power the Vehicle ACC until GTS IGN2 Activates taking over powering the vehicle ACC including the Start. Thus Matching the key switch.

If the IGN2 relay is staying on all the time and the C3/13 White is not turning off. Wire the IGN2 86 to IGN1 in stead of constant +12v.
Then when GTS IGN1 comes on it powers the coil to turn on GTS IGN2 to take over from the GTS ACC So vehicle ACC stays on during START(CRANK).

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I will try it as soon as I figure out what is wrong with the Valet switch to confirm C3/13 is active.

howie ll wrote:

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BMW, apart from some Porsches are the only manufacturer to have ACC at 12V+ during the crank cycle.

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Someone shoot me...the next car is a Porsche 928S

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

malevolent wrote:

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lurch228 wrote:

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You will also need to connect the GTS Blue ACC wire to the 87a of IGN2 relay so it will power the Vehicle ACC until GTS IGN2 Activates taking over powering the vehicle ACC including the Start. Thus Matching the key switch.


If the IGN2 relay is staying on all the time and the C3/13 White is not turning off. Wire the IGN2 86 to IGN1 in stead of constant +12v.
Then when GTS IGN1 comes on it powers the coil to turn on GTS IGN2 to take over from the GTS ACC So vehicle ACC stays on during START(CRANK).

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I will try it as soon as I figure out what is wrong with the Valet switch to confirm C3/13 is active.

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C3/13 has 2 functions active with ACC, and ON or active with ON, and START(CRANK) It should never be off all together when PTS is the ON state.
Even if you can't get the C3/13 working just use a direct ground for relay 85 and 86 to IGN1.
As long as 1 side of coil is switched it will only turn on when IGN1 is on.

lurch228 wrote:

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C3/13 has 2 functions active with ACC, and ON or active with ON, and START(CRANK) It should never be off all together when PTS is the ON state.
Even if you can't get the C3/13 working just use a direct ground for relay 85 and 86 to IGN1.
As long as 1 side of coil is switched it will only turn on when IGN1 is on.

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I was thinking the same thing if I cant figure out the valet switch...maybe I just forgot how to count to 5 and hold...good thing I still have all my fingers.

Just wanted to give an update.
I'm off this Monday and Tuesday so I will be working on the car for the next two days so its going to be an early night for me tonight. I have a full audio system install going at the same time so I'm doing both. Main priority is the GTS/556UW as I have already started getting wire color dreams tackling the factory wiring for the MS8 DSP and the GTS. Once I get the GTS working Ill go back to the audio portion of it.

Thanks guys for all the info so far and putting up with me.

No problem. Once you get it all working Please post the final wiring connections for others to reference from.

Sorry for the long wait. As of right now everything is on hold. Whatever I did it stopped the car from starting with a key. I had to rip everything out and put it back to factory. The car cranks over but it won't start. I'm pretty sure it's the ews not sending a signal to the ecu (code) to let the fuel pump/starter etc function. I get the code saying that the anti theft tampering. I know you would think that if the ews lets you crank the engine that it has accepted the key but I have a feeling after the ecu gets the tampering signal from the ews that the respond code back from the ecu to the ews is not giving it the thumbs up. I tried reverting the original code to the ews but it still won't return a valid response to the ews..not sure what to do at this point

Check your wiring between the switch and the EWS unit, bet you have either a dry joint or a break or just wired wrong.
And yes, what you thought about the engine turning over is quite correct, the immobiliser plays with the engine management.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

They are a lot of wires with tape hanging out, previous owner(s) had something after market hooked up that tied into the starter system. Security system/kill switch would be my guess. They didn't do a very good job on cleaning it up after removal (hacked up). I have to clean it up and start testing wires. I get very anoyed when people just hack wires and don't at least tape the ends off for some kind of safety. I will also check to see if the starter is getting a signal (post C) for the ignition (spark plugs) after testing if I don't find anything.

Looks like I have to do some kind of realignment with the ews and the emc to get it talk nice to each other. Cause could be anything like trying to talk to each other without signals connected at the time or constant removal of the ews for reprogramming keys. Regardless, I have GT1 and DDS software coming in to find out what's wrong and it also has the ability to realign the email/ews. On top of that I have a constant trunk/boot dash light on so another thing to trouble shoot

Check the switch for the second problem.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.