Viper 5806v on 2016 Toyota Sienna

Hello Everyone

I’ve been a long time lurker in this community and I had great success installing my first remote starter 6 months ago (Viper 5706 on a Toyota Camry 2011). I am back and looking for some help with a new installation – a 2016 Toyota Sienna and Viper 5806V. I have the following connections mapped out and was hoping to get some feedback from the community and hoping to get my questions resolved.

Car – Toyota Sienna 2016 (H Key)
R/S – Viper 5806V
Bypass – ADS ALCA (used wiring diagram 9)





Questions
1)For the auto headlight turn off feature in the case when I start the car and not actually end up driving the car, I have the following option to turn off auto headlights.
     1) Use relay connection above – can I get confirmation from this connection, I am not quite sure if I am using the correct ground from the R/S
     2) Or I Could Connect the Viper’s Rearm Output to the Sienna’s Driver Door. I know the Sienna’s Driver Door Output is Pink (-) on the Body ECU, but which wire from the Viper do I Connect this to?
2) If I want operate the sliding doors when the engine is on, which connections do I make or remove?
3) Is the above wire connections correct?

Thanks and really appreciate the help, great community.

mhunguyen wrote:

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Hello Everyone



Car – Toyota Sienna 2016 (H Key)
R/S – Viper 5806V
Bypass – ADS ALCA (used wiring diagram 9)


Questions
1)For the auto headlight turn off feature in the case when I start the car and not actually end up driving the car, I have the following option to turn off auto headlights.
     1) Use relay connection above – can I get confirmation from this connection, I am not quite sure if I am using the correct ground from the R/S
     2) Or I Could Connect the Viper’s Rearm Output to the Sienna’s Driver Door. I know the Sienna’s Driver Door Output is Pink (-) on the Body ECU, but which wire from the Viper do I Connect this to?
2) If I want operate the sliding doors when the engine is on, which connections do I make or remove?
3) Is the above wire connections correct?

Thanks and really appreciate the help, great community.

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1 If you want the headlights to turn off after R/S shutown you need to use a Ground pulse output like the RAP or Rearm to turn lights off not a direct ground like the Ground on the 6 pin.

2. Since the sliding doors don't operate when engine is running use the standard connections for control. Connect to R/S Aux outputs to control sliders, Also applies to the Trunk/Hatch.

3. What you have posted looks right. Other that the relay 85 ground to 6 pin.
You didn't list whether you are using W2W or Data between the R/S and bypass, and what functions are supported by the bypass in you chosen install type.

lurch228 wrote:

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1 If you want the headlights to turn off after R/S shutown you need to use a Ground pulse output like the RAP or Rearm to turn lights off not a direct ground like the Ground on the 6 pin.

2. Since the sliding doors don't operate when engine is running use the standard connections for control. Connect to R/S Aux outputs to control sliders, Also applies to the Trunk/Hatch.

3. What you have posted looks right. Other that the relay 85 ground to 6 pin.
You didn't list whether you are using W2W or Data between the R/S and bypass, and what functions are supported by the bypass in you chosen install type.

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Hi Thanks for the reply.

I will be using Data between the R/S and Idatalink.

Not sure if I understand 100% of what you are saying, so let me explain in my own words to see if you could confirm.

1) For Auto Head Lights to turn off after remote start shut off, I could wire it like the relay or not make any connection and just re-arm the starter to turn it off.
2)Door sliders do not work when the engine is running, so I need to connect the Viper's Aux Out to control sliders. Note sure which wire in the vehicle to connect the Aux Out wire to . Quite confused, and don't know how to wire the r/s to the car for this feature to work when the engine is running
3) Will be using D2D and the bypass support the following features for the Toyota Sienna.


*Available only when ignition is off.
**Available only if vehicle is equipped with factory hood switch

Thanks

Check kreg357's post for the 2015 if you haven't already should be the same as yours.
2015 Toyota Sienna H Key Remote Starter Install

You will not need to wire any functions that can be done thru Data in his post that the ADS ALCA can do.
Other than the Trunk/Hatch and sliders if you want them to work when engine is on.

Test all wires with a Digital Multi Meter before making quality connections.

According to the 2015 tutorial pulsing the (-)Drivers door pin will shutdown the lights. You shouldn't need the relay for this as wiring the Rearm direct to door pin will be fine.

lurch228 wrote:

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According to the 2015 tutorial pulsing the (-)Drivers door pin will shutdown the lights. You shouldn't need the relay for this as wiring the Rearm direct to door pin will be fine.

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Yes i check Kreg's post, and it got me through the majority of my connections.
Which wire from the viper's remote starter do i connect to the door pin wire?

lurch228 wrote:

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You will not need to wire any functions that can be done thru Data in his post that the ADS ALCA can do.
Other than the Trunk/Hatch and sliders if you want them to work when engine is on.

Test all wires with a Digital Multi Meter before making quality connections.

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Could you tell me which connection do I need to do for the Trunk/Hatch and Sliders as I do want them to work when the engine is on. Sorry I'm quite illiterate when it comes to this.

Thanks

You would use the AUX 2 for Trunk/Hatch (Wire color and location not given in the pictorial), AUX 3 for drivers slider, and AUX 4 for passenger slider all direct wired to R/S. As they are just triggers from the internal switches to Body ECU.

NOTE: Trunk/Hatch wire color can be found at the internal switch and then connected at the switch or test for the same wire color at the Body ECU with DMM while operating the switch.

lurch228 wrote:

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You would use the AUX 2 for Trunk/Hatch (Wire color and location not given in the pictorial), AUX 3 for drivers slider, and AUX 4 for passenger slider all direct wired to R/S. As they are just triggers from the internal switches to Body ECU.

NOTE: Trunk/Hatch wire color can be found at the internal switch and then connected at the switch or test for the same wire color at the Body ECU with DMM while operating the switch.

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Great, so just direct connect the aux 2, aux 3, aux 4 wires from the Viper's 24 Vehicle's Left Slider, Right Slider and Trunk/Hatch. Now ALl i have to do is get the right wire from the Body's ECU using a DMM.

I am still a bit confused with the auto head light connection. could you ELI5(Explain like I'm 5 years old)?

Thanks a bunch!!

Trunk/Hatch needs to be on AUX 2 so if it won't open until all doors are unlocked, The R/S can be set to Double pulse the unlock wire before activating the Trunk/Hatch in the settings.

Opening the door turns off auto headlight after 30 seconds, so having the R/S after shutdown pulse the drivers (-) door pin with the (-) rearm wire makes the Body ECU think the door was opened.

lurch228 wrote:

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Trunk/Hatch needs to be on AUX 2 so if it won't open until all doors are unlocked, The R/S can be set to Double pulse the unlock wire before activating the Trunk/Hatch in the settings.

Opening the door turns off auto headlight after 30 seconds, so having the R/S after shutdown pulse the drivers (-) door pin with the (-) rearm wire makes the Body ECU think the door was opened.

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Could you help and point out which wire in the Viper 5806V is the (-) rearm wire? I looked at the list and cannot determine which while it is.

Thanks

24 pin connector pin 24 GREEN / WHITE: (-) FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
This 200mA output is used to arm the factory alarm and outputs when the system is armed and 4 seconds
after the remote start deactivates. It typically connects to the Factory Alarm Arm wire in the vehicle.
Note: The Factory Alarm Arm wire will not output a pulse when the remote start deactivates if the heavy
gauge Pink wire has +12V

If the doors all have to be unlocked for the Trunk/Hatch to operate then you will need to use the 24 pin 14 pin GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT to the unlock wire.

GREEN/ Black: (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
This 200mA output is used to disarm the factory alarm and triggers when remote start is activated, when the
system is disarmed and when activating the trunk release output. It typically connects to the Factory Alarm
Disarm wire in the vehicle. This output can be programmed ON to activate with unlock, trunk release and for
a single or double pulse output (see OEM Alarm Disarm options in Feature Menus for more detail).

Menu 2 - Convenience
7 OEM Alarm Disarm Output Set to (Before Unlock)

8 OEM Alarm Disarm Pulses Set to (2)

That should cover most of the basics. Any other question just ask.

lurch228 wrote:

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That should cover most of the basics. Any other question just ask.

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Thank you very much lurch, really appreciate the help, will tackle this very soon!! I'm excited!!

just hope the people I help will pay it forward.

lurch228 wrote:

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just hope the people I help will pay it forward.

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I can assure you that I will pay it forward!!

Good to hear.

lurch228 wrote:

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Good to hear.

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Very Quick question Lurch228, which end of the shock senor do i connect to the brain? I am assuming that the green wire needs to be ground?

Shock sensor wires should have a plug on both ends, and plug into the sensor port 1. No other connections are needed for the green wire unless you are hooking up other sensors and want to modify the current zones that are being used for trigger reports.

lurch228 wrote:

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Shock sensor wires should have a plug on both ends, and plug into the sensor port 1. No other connections are needed for the green wire unless you are hooking up other sensors and want to modify the current zones that are being used for trigger reports.

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Thank you. Also Kreg mentioned in his post that its convenience to wire a relay for the anti-grind feature. Is this something that I should do/applicable for the 2016 Toyta Sienna?

Your Viper 5806 has built in Anti-Grind if you cut the Sienna's Starter wire and connected the Vipers thick Green and Violet starter wires. See Menu 3, Option 13. Default is ON. You can test this by remote starting the engine, then inserting the key and rotating it all the way to START. The Viper will prevent the ignition keys START signal from getting to the starter motor and causing a grind.

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Soldering is fun!

mhunguyen wrote:

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Thank you. Also Kreg mentioned in his post that its convenience to wire a relay for the anti-grind feature. Is this something that I should do/applicable for the 2016 Toyta Sienna?

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I would recommend that you hook it up but it's not a requirement.

You would hook the green to the side coming from the key, and the purple to the side going to the starter.

lurch228 wrote:

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mhunguyen wrote:

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Thank you. Also Kreg mentioned in his post that its convenience to wire a relay for the anti-grind feature. Is this something that I should do/applicable for the 2016 Toyta Sienna?

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I would recommend that you hook it up but it's not a requirement.

You would hook the green to the side coming from the key, and the purple to the side going to the starter.

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Thank you guys for the help. Been so busy haven't gotten the time to install it yet. I do have another question hoping for some direction.

From the Viper's 24 pin harness, do I need to connect the tach wire to the Sienna's tach?

If ADS ALCA supports Tach thru Data and you are following the D2D/DBI install then no, otherwise if the ADS ALCA only supports Tach via hardwire the connect Tach between the Alarm R/S and ADS ALCA. If the ADS ALCA doesn't support Tach at all the wire Alarm R/S Tach to vehicle.

lurch228 wrote:

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If ADS ALCA supports Tach thru Data and you are following the D2D/DBI install then no, otherwise if the ADS ALCA only supports Tach via hardwire the connect Tach between the Alarm R/S and ADS ALCA. If the ADS ALCA doesn't support Tach at all the wire Alarm R/S Tach to vehicle.

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THank you lurch.. will be doing the installation today. one quick question, if i want to use the Siena's horn instead of the Vipers siren. which write do i connect to the horn wire of the Sienna.
The sienna horn is (-), so should i connect the 24-pin BROWN / BLACK - HORN HONK OUTPUT to the Siena's horn wire?

thanks

Yes you are correct, for horn honk.

lurch228 wrote:

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Yes you are correct, for horn honk.

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I finished the installation. Starter is working fine. However LED is blinking 3 times. And the lock/unlock feature from the r/s control is not working right. Any idea what's wrong? I think it has to do with the ignition wire.

You connected the R/S heavy gauge pink to vehicle ignition 1 wire and the bypass ignition pink wire is also connected to 1 of the first 2 wires then it should be right.

The bypass is set ie flashed with the DBI firmware for D2D/DBI data mode to work with the Viper correct?

DBI-AL(DL)-TL9 (1.6) FOR ADS-ALCA Revision Date: Thursday, April 28, 2016

lurch228 wrote:

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You connected the R/S heavy gauge pink to vehicle ignition 1 wire and the bypass ignition pink wire is also connected to 1 of the first 2 wires then it should be right.

The bypass is set ie flashed with the DBI firmware for D2D/DBI data mode to work with the Viper correct?

DBI-AL(DL)-TL9 (1.6) FOR ADS-ALCA Revision Date: Thursday, April 28, 2016

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I believe that is the firmware it is flashed to. I realized that i forgot to put the fuse in the R/S brain, so everything is work great now. Thanks a bunch for the help. One quire that i forgot to connect was the BLACK/ WHITE from the Viper's 24 pin harness for the newtral safety switch.

Quick question. How do I program aux 3 and 4 so that it opens the sliding doors.

The defaults should be OK. Connect the AUX3 and AUX4 to the correct sliding door wires shown in the Pictorial. To open a slider, press the F ( function button ) 3 ( or 4 ) times, then the AUX button. The van might need to be unlocked first.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 is correct as a safety feature the sliders won't work if doors are locked just like the hatch. So you will have to unlock first for them to open.

Thank you guys for all the help. Successfully installed the remote starter with out much problem. I took my time so it took a while. However, it is all done and car is looking good. Never thought i could do it. But with tons of research, youtube videos, and this communicate, it was not as hard. So thank you Kreg and Lurch.

Moving on to a Toyota Corolla 2014 PTS next.