2008 Escape DBALL2 Programming Issues

Hello all. Thank you in advance for any help. I'm installing a DBALL2 with DEI Remote Starter into a '08 Escape and I'm not having any luck at getting the DBALL2 to program. For reference, I'm following the following guide, and it does not have a factory alarm:

https://directechs.blob.core.windows.net/documents/dball-dball2-ford1_en_ig_vm20150925p.pdf

I am able to get the DBALL2 to accept both keys and flash orange repeatedly. Upon trying the final step of programming the LED continues to flash orange. I have tried both methods listed for the final step of programming. Under Type 1 where you remote start while holding the programming button the vehicle dash lights up, the immobilizer LED on the dash blinks fast as if it doesn't recognize a key in the ignition and the system shuts down. The Remote Starter signals a shutdown error for timing out. If I attempt to program under Type 2 where you apply 12v to the accessory wire my dash lights up but the DBALL2 does just the same and continues to flash orange.

Also, I cannot find a proper parking light wire. The violet/white wire in driver kick panel that wiring guides list doesn't show 12v resting or with parking lights on. I tried wiring up at the switch into a violet/gray wire that shows 12v with lights on but the system doesn't have any activity on the lights with this wire.

here is a pic of where the + park light wire is ( test wire first )

as to programming the Dball2 i would check that the rx and tx wires are connected properly
then i would reset the dball then try to program again but in the last step is says to jump power to the ign wire NOT acc wire and in type one is says not to remote start the car, just jump power to ign wire

Type 1: Press & hold the module programming button and then apply (+)12V to the vehicles ++IGNITION wire** with a jumper wire (keep holding the programming button).

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BOGUCKIALEX

you can also use the - parking light wire at the switch but you will need a relay see pic.
+ parking light IS NOT AVAILABLE AT THE SWITCH

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BOGUCKIALEX

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BOGUCKIALEX

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BOGUCKIALEX

also with programming if you have a XLloader cable and direct techs account you could try the one key programming with key2go

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BOGUCKIALEX

bogucki wrote:

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here is a pic of where the + park light wire is ( test wire first )

as to programming the Dball2 i would check that the rx and tx wires are connected properly
then i would reset the dball then try to program again but in the last step is says to jump power to the ign wire NOT acc wire and in type one is says not to remote start the car, just jump power to ign wire

Type 1: Press & hold the module programming button and then apply (+)12V to the vehicles ++IGNITION wire** with a jumper wire (keep holding the programming button).

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Thanks, I had been looking on the left kick panel area for that parking wire.

Sorry that was a typo on my part with the programming, I meant to write Ignition, not accessory. So, When I jump the ignition to +12v while holding the programming button nothing happens. And just to clarify, the ignition wire on the remote start is going to the WHITE/ orange wire on the car and the pink wire on the dball2 is spliced into this circuit as well.   

I've reset the dball2 and tried again a couple of times but I haven't done a hard reset since I don't have an xk loader.

Is there any chance the driver door trigger wire that needs to be cut and interuppted with the RAP on/RAP off wires can be to blame? I couldn't find a Gray/Violet wire that showed +12v with the driver door open as wiring charts say but I did find a GREEN/ Violet wire that does so I cut and wired into that one. This wire was on the bundle of wires coming directly from the drivers door. Also I couldn't tell if it mattered which RAP wire from the DBALL2 connected to which end of the cut door trigger wire.

bogucki wrote:

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What are these wiring colors referring to?

Oh, parking lights switch. Whoops.

the wire chart is to show what wire is ground if using the - parking light with relay at switch
the door pin is a - trigger not positive, who flashed the dball2 you should ask them if they can do the key2go its a easer way to program the dball but you would need to make two trips to the store that sold it to you, also the rap wire should not effect program it's used to turn off the radio and accessories if you remote shutdown the car.
,

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BOGUCKIALEX

the door trigger wire should test ground with door closed then nothing/open with door open

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BOGUCKIALEX

when your programing your holding the button and jumping power to the ign while still holding the button it may take a few seconds to turn green then off but you have to keep holding the button, and I'm assuming that the store flashed the dball2 for the ford escape for you. and the dball pink ignition input wire is connected with a Secure connection to the vehicles Ignition wire

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BOGUCKIALEX

bogucki wrote:

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when your programing your holding the button and jumping power to the ign while still holding the button it may take a few seconds to turn green then off but you have to keep holding the button, and I'm assuming that the store flashed the dball2 for the ford escape for you. and the dball pink ignition input wire is connected with a Secure connection to the vehicles Ignition wire

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I re soldered the connections to the PATS cylinder, and have the parking lights wired properly now.

The issue with programming has moved on to that after connecting 12v to Ignition the DBALL2 flashes Orange-Red-Orange-Red continually which my instructions indicate "Ignition On" command received. It does this if I attempt programming under Type 2 as well, the remote starter lights everything up and the DBALL2 flashes Orange-Red the same.

Could it be possible that Best Buy flashed the DBALL with the wrong firmware, possibly the Key2Go version? Or is there another possibility I'm not considering?

The Key2GO instructions say to turn the same key on and off twice, and the LED will start blinking orange. When I do this, the LED starts blinking orange.

If the light is flashing red and orange I don't think your in programming mode anymore
I would do a hard reset on the dball and try one more time to program it with two keys with type 1 program with jumping power to ign don't use type 2
Make sure your following every step, and if that doesn't work I then would bring the module to Best Buy to check the it's flashed properly

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BOGUCKIALEX

You also maybe letting go of the program if button to soon in the 2nd last step as well keep holding it till The light goes green then off

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BOGUCKIALEX

I'm at a loss of what to do now. We went to Best Buy and they verified that the firmware was correct, they said that Key2Go or not, it's the same firmware. I'm confident I'm following the steps as I should:

Reset DBALL2 by removing power from it, hold programming button, reconnect power, let go of button once light turns orange, light will then turn Red.

Insert key 1, turn ignition to Run (not start), wait 5 seconds, turn key off and remove. LED on DBALL doesn't change, stays red.

Insert key 2, turn ignition to Run, (DBALL almost instantly starts blinking orange repeatedly), wait 5 seconds, turn key off and remove. LED is still blinking orange.

Hold programming button, jumper +12V to vehicle Ignition wiring. DBALL audibly clicks, LED turns orange for a brief moment and then starts blinking Orange-Red-Orange-Red. I've continued to hold the button for up to 5 minutes at this point and there isn't any change. When I remove +12V LED goes back to blinking orange.


Maybe the vehicle has a security system that I don't know about and I need to connect the keysense wiring as shown in install Type 1b. I attempted to get an alarm to go off by securing the vehicle with the fob and windows down, wait 5 minutes, reach in and open door without anything happening so I assumed no alarm and Type 1a install was correct.

And you sure the dballs rx and tx wires are not backwards and yes with no alarm it's the 1a install type , is the dball and the remote starter connected by d2d wire

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BOGUCKIALEX

   make sure the dball rx wire ( ORANGE / Black ) is connected to the PURPLE / gray wire on the ford, and the dball tx wire (Yellow/Black ) is connected to the yellow/orange wire on the ford.

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BOGUCKIALEX

I've quadruple checked and even resoldered the TX and RX wires. I just completed the wiring for Type 1b as if it has an alarm. There really isn't any change except that when I press the programming button while the led is blinking orange after inserting and removing the two keys the Dball2 seems to apply +12v over the yellow wire now, which is connected to the Ignition wiring, so jumping 12v doesn't make any sense since the Dball is already doing it. Either way though, the dball led blinks orange and red in the end.

I tried starting the vehicle with the key and doing a remote start takeover which worked perfect. I was able to remove the key and turn the vehicle off via remote. Locks and all that work. Something is really off with the Dball or the wiring and I just can't figure it out.

Theoretically, if only the TX, RX, and ignition wires are connected and the dball is getting power and ground it should be able to go through these programming steps right?

Where do you have the dballs ignition input pink wire wired to , it should be wired to the pink heavy gauge wire on the remote starter,
I'm kinda coming to a loss why it won't program the Ford Escape is a easy car to do


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BOGUCKIALEX

Yeah, that's exactly where its wired to. I dunno, how often does a dball fail? Maybe I'll order a new dball and an xk loader just so I can see for myself it's the right firmware.

I don't know the fail rate , as I don't use many of them, my preferable brand is fortin or the idatalink I've had issues with the dball to if you where 100% sure is wired properly and you where going to buy another bypass I would recommend the idatalink one as you won't have to change much wiring it's the same install type.

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BOGUCKIALEX

Could you list your DBALL wire connection for the Black, Red, And Blue connector.
List what each of the listed wires, (Type 1a),is connected to on the vehicle.

I have used many DBALLs in my installs. Maybe I've been lucky with not having any issues.

What model remote starter are you installing?

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I have it set up as 1b now, It's paired with a Viper 5704.

Blue connector:
*Brown wire -> connected to red H1/1 on remote start
*Yellow wire -> Pink ignition wire, H3/1 on remote start
*ORANGE / Red -> Cut end of GREEN/ Purple in left driver kick panel
*Yellow/Red -> Other cut end of GREEN/ Purple in left driver kick panel

Red connector:
*Gray/Black -> Orange accessory wire on remote start H3/3 then diode to Blue/Grey on vehicle ignition harness
*Yellow/Black -> Yellow/Orange at key cylinder
*ORANGE / Black -> Violet/Grey at key cylinder

Black connector:
*Pink -> Pink ignition wire, H3/1 on remote start (Same as yellow wire on the blue connector)

Then the D2D cable, and as I mentioned before the remote start takes over control just fine if the vehicle is already running.

bogucki wrote:

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I don't know the fail rate , as I don't use many of them, my preferable brand is fortin or the idatalink I've had issues with the dball to if you where 100% sure is wired properly and you where going to buy another bypass I would recommend the idatalink one as you won't have to change much wiring it's the same install type.

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I will look into those, and I really appreciate your help and responses today! I've put in 4 or 5 remote starters over the past 5 years and this is the first real pain in the butt one. All the others were with DBALL also and I guess I've just stuck with them for no real reason other then brand recognition and availability.

Just to verify. Your first post stated that the vehicle has no factory alarm, correct. If so I would wire it up as Type 1a, W2W. forget the D2D. its only 3 wires.

I've only done a couple of DBALLs in D2D. Never had any issues with W2W mode.



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smokeman1 wrote:

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Just to verify. Your first post stated that the vehicle has no factory alarm, correct. If so I would wire it up as Type 1a, W2W. forget the D2D. its only 3 wires.

I've only done a couple of DBALLs in D2D. Never had any issues with W2W mode.

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It doesn't have an alarm that I know of since we tried to get it to go off without any luck, however my friend (the owner) thought it did. I originally installed as 1a and had the programming issues and moved onto 1b just in case it does have an alarm but it didn't solve the problem. Would you suggest reverting back to 1a?

Thank you for pointing out that W2W is only 3 extra wires, I don't know why I didn't take a look at that. We're going to dig into it again next week