clifford 4105 problem

I put in this system in my 02 4runner yesterday. I finally got it to work for the starter which was troublesome as I had some things switched. However, this morning it was unlocking the entire time driving randomly, with no clear pattern (like morse code). When my brakes were applied it wouldn't do it, but other times it did. Is this a programming issue or is something wrong with wiring?
It never locks, just continuously tries to unlock. When I do lock it, it immediately unlocks.

Sound like you have something incorrect in the wiring. Soooo.....

If you could list all of your wired connections from the 4105 to what and where on the 4Runner it might help give us an idea as to what might be wrong.

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OK here goes:
(Toyota, [wire color] [wire location])


4105:
Main 9 pin harness
1. light green black - factory alarm disarm (toy yellow/red key switch)
2. GREEN / WHITE - alarm rearm
3. yellow - ignition out
4. WHITE/ blue - activation input
5. orange - ground when locked/anti-grind
6. brown - horn output (toy GREEN/ red dash fuse box)
7. RED / white - trunk release
8. black - ground (to same screw as neutral safety)
9. white - light flash output (toy green driver kick)

Door lock 3 pin
1. blue - unlock (toy red door harness)
2. unused
3. green - lock (toy RED / white door harness)

Remote start 6 pin
1. red - 30A high current input (Toyota WHITE/ red ignition)
2. pink/white - output to second ignition/accessory circuit (toy BLACK / YELLOW ignition)
3. red - 30A high current input (Toy white ignition)
4. orange - output to accessory circuit (Toy blue/red ignition)
5. purple - output to starter circuit (toy GREEN/ black ignition)
6. pink - output to primary ignition circuit (toy BLACK/ red ignition)

satellite harness 4 pin (not used at all)
1. blue -status output
2. orange - accessory output
3. purple - starter output
4. pink - ignition output

Remote start harness 5 pin
1. BLACK/ white - neutral safety switch input (to a screw)
2. violet/white - tach input wire (toy black, diagnostic pin)
3. brown - brake shutdown input wire (toy GREEN / WHITE driver kick)
4. gray - hood pin switch shutdown (first hooked up, then cut off entirely)
5. blue/white - rear defogger (light GREEN/ black dash fuse box)

Seems to be some conflicting info on the lock/unlock wires from what you have connected to

https://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1999-2002/toyota/4-runner/1945.html

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx



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I tried to go through programming again at lunch and it seems like I may have been in valet mode the whole time??? I pressed valet and held until a loud honk, then backed up and started into the stall again and it didn't do it. However, I still am not getting the honk when I lock/unlock which I want AND the parking lights staying on, which it states is the default

I saw the wiring here:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=45050

and also a sheet from DirectWire a tech gave me said the same thing.

But my remote easily locks and unlocks it so I assumed that was right.

ok so after my lunchtime adjustment it apparently did something because it stopped. Then the next time I stopped the car I tested the remote start again, sure enough more unlocking clicking. Then I tried to reset it the same way and held down valet button to get the long honk but it didn't do anything this time.

Ok so I don't have a GREEN/ YELLOW and blue / YELLOW wire set in that 18 pin connector. There is a BROWN / white which I have listed as alarm arm. My alarm disarm is blue/black which is present. Should I use those for lock and unlock?

Ok I found brown white and the green yellow and gblue yellow but not on the driver kick but rather the harness right under the fuse panel. I also found in that plug the blue black and red blue factory disarm my list has

If I do the combo wires it says to do a diode isolate. I'm at frys now and I don't know what diode to use or how to use it

ok so I switched the locks to the BROWN / white and the GREEN/ YELLOW. It functions as in it unlocks and locks, but now the remote start doesn't activate. It cranks over then stalls out, but the dash remains on. I don't understand how that glitched the starting sequence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I8kLcHKEQ8

does this mean I feed one tail of the diode Y like in the video to blue / YELLOW and the other to GREEN/ YELLOW then the bottom of the Y to the door unlock (blue) wire?

No start on the remote start. Try undoing the last change you did see if it remote starts or not.
If not, do the Remote Start Shutdown Diagnosis. The Status LED will flash a number of times to indicate why it shut down.
Relearn Tach signal?

Are your connections soldered or quick connect with t-taps or such.

The bulldog link shows a diagram for using the diodes.

Does this vehicle have a factory alarm?

Is it possible that you changed the Heavy Gauge Pink/White from Ignition to Accessory? with the button pressing? May have to get your DMM out to test the outputs of the 4105 to verify the function of the Ignition wires.

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All I switched was the locking wires nothing else. I'm going to check the mounting of the ground again to be sure. If still nothing I'll redo the locking wires to where they were. As for the thicker wires I'm pretty sure they're in there right since it started before. As for the led Las night it was just flashing continuously no pattern so the diagnostic was useless as it caps out at 8.

But, is it possible that you changer the Pink/White from Ignition 2 to Accessory? That could be your no start reason. Test the output of the Pink/White during the remote start sequence.

Try doing the shutdown diagnosis.

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I don't think so but I'll check. So what hook battery up then test multimeter into the harness pins? I don't really understand how to tset things without exposed wires like I test in the house

Put the red probe of your DMM on the Pink/White wire, black probe to chassis ground. Set DMM to dc volts. Activate remote start, pink/white wire should show a constant 12 volts as an ignition wire during starter cranking. As an accessory wire, it should show 12 volts and then drop,(to a lower voltage) during starter cranking.

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Ok thanks. I didn't think it would read through the insulation

You have to pierce the insulation to the bare wire.

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I grounded it better to the body with a screw. Then it wouldn't start at all. I checked wired and both pink/white and pink spike to 12v but neither stay bc the car doesn't actually start now. Not even with my key!

What happens when you turn the key? any lights on dash? Blower motor comes on? radio? Starter cranks but no start?

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Yes dash would come on and click to activate the starter but no cranking. Since then I found a slightly loose connection. Tightened that up and taped the wire bundle together tightly. It now starts with key but not with remote. No diagnostic lights either. I started to relocate my door wires again back to original location before leaving this morning. So when I finish later I'll be back where I started but with a better ground. I'm thinking the better ground should stop that clicking when driving . I'm really debating soldering some of these connections due to this. I used tap splices for the smaller wires and a mixture of tape around interwoven wires and twist locks with the 12 gauge ones

If you used the 3-pin blue and green wire harness for the locks, be sure it is plugged into the correct port on the Clifford. Older DEI's had two 3-pin ports. One for the locks, one for the bit-writer. If the locks are plugged into the bit-writer port, the locks go bezerk.

Ask me how I know this.

Ok I can start with key still not with remote. I've tested continuity for the remote harness and every things good. Locks seem ok too. When using the remote it cranks then dies. Fuses were good

OK got it! I honestly think that after moving the door wires back and checking fuses, the problem was I was checking it while sitting there on my stool by the door to check the flashing LED. I didn't even think about it (the driver door was opened) so that must have been it. I closed the door, started right up. Also, I think a few time I barely put the battery terminal on the post since I was frequently taking it on and off.

I had one failed start after all this, but a second button press started it up. It's a cold morning so maybe that's it.

So.....it was probably the bad ground switch all along since that's really the only thing that's changed NOW. Things were moved back and forth but now that's the remaining change. FWIW I did try to reset the tach as well, but the LED didn't flash after the 3-5 seconds like it's supposed to. I also need to figure out how to make it chirp the horn with lock and unlock AND flash the parking lights upon remote start.

So it works, but I need to figure out why the other things aren't working. I had the light flash output from the main 9 pin harness go to my parking lights on the car. and the horn works because the panic button works.

Ok since installation I've had some problems. Sometimes the starter won't crank over fully with remote. Also unlocking sometimes won't work but locking always does. What's going on...wires...battery...setting of the remote starter?

I found the pattern for locking. If I manually lock it when I leave the vehicle, then I can't remote unlock it. However as long as I only use the remote it's fine. But my parking lights still don't flash, nor does my horn honk.

So last year when I put this in, it worked at first. Then it started to not work. But spring came around so I figured I'd get to it later. This weekend I took out the wires and re-did a connection I assumed was bad. I had a stiff 12 gauge wire with twist connectors linking the car's red/white power cord. I soldered it with more flexible wire. Put it back together and...the remote start works on the 3rd attempt, Clifford does 3 then shuts off. Why won't it work on the first? I hear the starter turn on, but it won't turn over. What could cause this?

One question I always had was how the car also has a white cord, not listed in my toyota wiring diagram. The Clifford had two power cords. That's how I figured one to the white, one to the white/red.