What am I missing? - Viper 211HV and push button

Hey t12v, looking for help.

1976 Toyota FJ40
Viper 211HV
2 aftermarket actuators

This is about as basic of a setup as it gets. I am having trouble though- I also have a momentary DPDT switch on the dash for locking and unlocking. I bought 4 3a diodes from Radio Shack so I could isolate the brain from the rest of the system when I use the dash switch, hoping I don't send power to the internal normally grounded relays. I tested them to make sure they would not send a positive signal 'backwards', and they are functioning correctly.

I hooked everything up and the actuators are not working with the remote, only the dash switch. I get (+) before AND after the diodes when I lock AND unlocked it. I wasn't sure if the brain unit was working correctly, so I cut the diodes back out and hooked it up to just one of the actuators directly, and it worked perfectly.

So, my question is, are diodes what I should be using to isolate the brain unit? Are the diodes not allowing the internal DEI relays to ground correctly? I was really into car audio about 15 years ago, so I'm rusty on this stuff (thanks for your patience)!

Here is a rough sketch of my wiring.

Again, the dash switch works correctly.

The brain unit works correctly when wired directly the actuators without the diodes/switch in place.

When the diodes are in place, I am not getting a (-) to either actuator on lock or unlock.

After doing some more testing, I realized my diode will not pass ground through it. I thought diodes would only act as a one way for a positive charge, not negative as well.

What are your recommendations for this setup?

Thank you!

If this were my project, I would use two relays:

Lock Relay:
#30 to actuators wire that is (+) to LOCK
#87 = B+, Hot at all times. (Fused)
#87a = Ground
#86 = B+, Hot at all times. (Fused)
#85 = LOCK trigger.

Unlock Relay:
#30 to actuators wire that is (+) to UN-LOCK
#87 = B+, Hot at all times. (Fused)
#87a = Ground
#86 = B+, Hot at all times. (Fused)
#85 = UNLOCK trigger.

On the 211HV:
H1/5 grn/blk = #85, LOCK relay.
H1/8 blu/blk = #85, UNLOCK relay.
H1/7 pur/blk and H1/9 pur = GROUND

Dash switch:
Use one pole of your DPDT center off switch.
Center pole = GROUND
One end pole = #85 of LOCK relay.
Other end pole = #85 of UNLOCK relay.

Circuit description:
Both poles of the actuators rest at ground at the relays' #87a. The relay coils are hot at all times on #86. Grounding one relay coil #85, causes that relay to connect B+ to that actuator wire, the other side is still grounded at the other relay.
Either the 211 or the dash switch can ground the relays' coil.

One way to do it. There may be other ideas.

Thank you so much davep! What a great explanation! I will go that route!

I really appreciate you taking the time to write it out in detail!

And here's a much simpler method using your switch and no relays.
I just looked at the install instructions and it has built in relays so:-
Viper blue/black and GREEN/ black to switch.
Both as your diagram above.
Viper BROWN / black and WHITE/ black to ground.
Viper purple and purple black, 15 amp 12V+ constant.
No diodes, no relays required.
All other wires as per install instructions.
You're simply wiring the switch in series.
Did that method in the early 80's and it worked a treat.
NOTE!! The above switch will only work with 15 amps 12V+ constant connected on the other terminals.
You might be better off with an aftermarket window switch from Spal or DAV


-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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And here's a much simpler method using your switch and no relays.
I just looked at the install instructions and it has built in relays so:-
Viper blue/black and GREEN/ black to switch.
Both as your diagram above.
Viper BROWN / black and WHITE/ black to ground.
Viper purple and purple black, 15 amp 12V+ constant.
No diodes, no relays required.
All other wires as per install instructions.
You're simply wiring the switch in series.
Did that method in the early 80's and it worked a treat.
NOTE!! The above switch will only work with 15 amps 12V+ constant connected on the other terminals.
You might be better off with an aftermarket window switch from Spal or DAV

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But when the switch is pressed, it will feed +12v into the 211's 87a grounded terminal and fry it, correct?

Test it first but with repeat electric window switches that's how they work.
In either direction 12V+ goes where you want. The NEG stays connected to the other side.
It's a TWO pole changeover.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Go to Spal site there may be a diagram explaining it better.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

sierranevada40 wrote:

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But when the switch is pressed, it will feed +12v into the 211's 87a grounded terminal and fry it, correct?

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100% correctomundo. Howie's way won't work with your present type switch. That's why I suggested the relay solution. It works with the present, already installed switch.

howie ll wrote:

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And here's a much simpler method using your switch and no relays.
I just looked at the install instructions and it has built in relays so:-

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I thought of your way too, Howie. His dash switch is N.O. so he CAN'T use "his switch" with the HV211 internal relays. Rather than go into all that, and him having to find and install a different dash switch, I made it work with what he already has. One can source and put relays anywhere. So "my way" is simpler. Because he doesn't have to find and install a N.C. switch.

davep. wrote:

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sierranevada40 wrote:

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But when the switch is pressed, it will feed +12v into the 211's 87a grounded terminal and fry it, correct?

---

100% correctomundo. Howie's way won't work with your present type switch. That's why I suggested the relay solution. It works with the present, already installed switch.

howie ll wrote:

---

And here's a much simpler method using your switch and no relays.
I just looked at the install instructions and it has built in relays so:-

---

I thought of your way too, Howie. His dash switch is N.O. so he CAN'T use "his switch" with the HV211 internal relays. Rather than go into all that, and him having to find and install a different dash switch, I made it work with what he already has. One can source and put relays anywhere. So "my way" is simpler. Because he doesn't have to find and install a N.C. switch.

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Thank you both so much. I will use the relay method. The switch I'm using is one of about 20 Carling laser etched switches that all match each other, so I'd really like to keep them all the same!

Fair enough,it just seemed silly to add relays to an existing unit WITH relays.
I should have thought it through more.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.