2007 Camry CM7200 Starter with Blade AL

After reading a lot on these forums I have decided to tackle a remote starter install myself. I like to make sure I have all my ducks in a row here before starting this as I would rather do it once then troubleshoot after. I will be using the Firstech CM7200 remote starter with the Blade AL and compustar 2 way remotes.

The blade module seems to simplify adding a remote start to this car by only needing can communication, parking lights, and key code wires. Which I am ok with. The 2 starter and 2 IG wires is where I get a little confused.

For my CN1 connector on the CM7200 this is how I planned to wire just the remote start portion.

Pin8- Ground

Pin7- +12v Ignition (Output/Input)- IG1 Wire Does the input/output indicate I need to cut the wire and connect in-between? Or just strip and solder together.

Pin6- +12v Starter- Starter 1 Wire on connector

Pin5- Ignition 2 Wire-iG2 on connector

Pin4- is a selectable jumper which defaults to accessory which i don't really mind if my radio turns on while remote starting so I was hoping to move the jumper to Starter and use it as my 2nd starter wire.

Pin3- 12V constant- WAs either going to fuse it down to 30Amps from my 120AMp power wire or use the 30AMP black AM2 connection at the Ignition switch.

Pin2- Parking light output Selectable by jumper- I could also switch this to Starter instead of using pin 4 because shouldn't the BLADE take care of my parking light output.

Pin1- 12v constant- So can i use the 30amp fuse for both 12V constant wires?

Will be testing all wires before hand just trying to make sure i have an understanding of which wires go where before I dig into this. Thanks for taking time to check this out and hopefully provide a success.

Here was link to the manual for the CM7200 because the image quality of the connectors is so low on google.

https://techfeed.compustar.com/ft_controllers/.../CM7200_Full_Install_3.00_EN.pdf

Think you have it figured out.

No wires have to be cut, just tap / add the wires.

Pin8- Ground

Pin7- Green +12v Ignition (Output/Input)- IG1 Wire Pink @ Ign Switch

Pin6- Yellow +12v Starter- Starter 1 Wire Blue @ Ign Switch

Pin5- Blue Ignition 2 Wire-iG2 Yellow @ Ign Switch

Pin4- White Accessory White @ Ign Switch

Pin3- Red 12V constant- Black AM2 connection at the Ignition switch.

Pin2- GREEN / WHITE Parking light output Selectable by jumper- set Jumper to Starter2 Gray @ Ign Switch

Pin1- 12v constant- to 120 Amp wire @ fuse box

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks, I get my remotes tomorrow will be installing this weekend got my weblink cable and flashed my bypass ill be sure to take good pictures and post up a pictorial!

Also any recommendations for stealing power from that white wire its pretty big.

I manage to solder on a 12 gauge wire from the R/S unit to that thick White wire but you could try a few things.

1. Being as it only a R/S w/keyless system and using (-) Parking Lights, combine the two +12 Volt input wires from the CM7200-s into one wire, leaving a single fuse at 30 Amps and make one connection to the Black 30 Amp wire at the ignition switch harness. It should handle the R/S output load.

2. Look for another, thinner but still 12 or 14 gauge +12V constant power wire by the fuse box or in the drivers kick panel area. If the car has power seats, that wire is a good alternate choice. Typically, the power seat isn't going to be adjusted during R/S run time.

3. Disconnect the vehicles battery for safety ( I usually do installs hot ) and temporarily disconnect that thick White wire. Remove enough insulation from an easily accessible section ( about 1" ) to be able to separate the strands into two groups ( 70 / 30 split is OK ). Might have to twist the White wire a bit to un-wind the strands. Now you can do a poke & twist with the R/S wire on that 30% section. You can solder this point or if you get several wraps and make them tight enough, just wrap with 3M Super 33+ tape and add a couple or tie wraps to secure everything.

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Soldering is fun!