2001 F-350 Super Duty, Avital 5305L

I am looking for a little bit of help on making the correct connections for my Avitial 5305L remote start. I have the Wiring Guide for my 2001 Ford F Series Super Duty and have located the Starter wire, Ignition wire and Accessory wire on my truck, but I am very confused with the connections from the Remote start to the truck. I have filled out the Connections Template with the color, polarity and label of the wires. I know I have to cut the Starter wire and use a Relay but just not sure what wires from the 5305 I need to connect to the relay and also how to get the system to energize the ignition.

Here is the Template;

Vehicle Information:          2001 Ford F-350 Diesel               
Alarm / Remote Start Unit:          Avital 5305L               
Bypass Module:                         
                         
Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit               
Connection     Color     Description     Color     Polarity     Location:
     RED / Black     (+) Fused 12v Accessory/Starter Relay Input               
     Pink/Black *     2nd Ignition/Accecessory Isolation Wire (87a of onboard relay)               
     Pink/White     (+) 2nd Ignition/Accessory Relay Output (30 of on board relay)               
     Red     (+) Fused 12 Ignition 1 Relay Input               
     Green     Starter Input (Key Side of Starter Kill)               
     Violet     (+) Starter output (Car Side of Starter Kill)               
     Orange     (+) Accessory Output               
     RED / White     (+) Fused 12v 2nd Ignition/Accessory Relay Input 87               
     Pink     (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output               
                         
          * This wire is only used in applications the require a specific circuit                
          at the ignition switch to be isolated during the remote start sequence     

Thank you for any help that can be provided. Kent


          

Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit
Connection     Color     Description     Color     Polarity     Location:
     RED / Black     (+) Fused 12v Accessory/Starter Relay Input           Yellow @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS             
     Pink/Black *     2nd Ignition/Accessory Isolation Wire              not used           
     Pink/White     (+) 2nd Ignition/Accessory Relay Output              BLACK/ Light Green @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS             
     Red     (+) Fused 12 Ignition 1 Relay Input          Light GREEN/ Purple @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Green     Starter Input (Key Side of Starter Kill)   RED / Light Blue @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS              
     Violet     (+) Starter output (Car Side of Starter Kill)            RED / Light Blue @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS             
     Orange     (+) Accessory Output       Gray / YELLOW @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS           
     RED / White     (+) Fused 12v 2nd Ignition/Accessory Relay Input 87   Yellow @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS            
     Pink     (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output RED / Black @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you kreg357.

OK, now Ive gone and done it! The first time I attempted to install the alarm everything but the remote start was working just fine. The lights flashed, horn chirped and doors all locked/unlocked just fine. Last night I was able to tackle it again using the info kreg357 provided thinking I have this licked now, nope! After making my connections and powering on the unit, started the truck without problems. Tried to arm/disarm the system and my locks did not work. I could hear the lock motors working but nothing happened? All 4 locks seemed to be in energized, meaning I could not physically lock/unlock them. I then disconnected the system and now my locks do not work with the factory key fob. What would be my next logical step here, fill out the wiring template completely then submitting it again or somehow adding it to this thread?

Kent

Might be the best bet.

The simple additional connections of just the thick ignition wires shown above should not cause any issues. Might want to check if any of the Avital harnesses are mis-seated. Same for any vehicle connectors you touched during the last round of wiring.

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Soldering is fun!

OK, so I completely filled out the Wiring Templet so I am hoping someone can help me out here.

Vehicle Information:                 2001 Ford F-350 Crew Cab Dually               
Alarm / Remote Start Unit:              Avital 5305L               
Bypass Module:          N/A               
                         
Alarm / Remote Start / Bypass Unit                     Vehicle          
Connection     Color     Description         Color     Polarity                   Location:
          Main Harness,5 Pin connector               
1     Black     (-) Chassis Ground                     ground bolt in right side of steering column
2     Brown     (+) Siren Output                     red lead form Siren
3     Red     (+) Fused DC Constant Input                            connect to aux fuse box with constant Hot wire from Battery
4     Orange     (-) 500mA Ground when Armend Output               
5     White     (+) (-) Selctable Parking Light Output Fused              POS                  Headlight Switch
                         
          Door Lock 3 Pin Harness               
1     Blue     (-) 500mA Unlock Output          Pink/Black or red /orange   NEG             5 wire driver Kick, door harness
2     Empty     Not Used               
3     Green     (-) 500mA lock Output          pink/black   NEG             5 wire driver Kick, door harness
                         
          Remote Start 10 Pin Heavy Gauge Connector               
1     N/C     No Connection               
2     RED / Black     (+) Fused 12v Accessory / Starter Relay Input     Yellow               IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
3     Pink/ Black     2nd Ignition / Accessory Isolation Wire (87a of on board relay)                         NOT Used
4     Pink/ White     (+) 2nd Ignition / Accessory Relay Output(30 of on board relay)                 Black / Light Green                      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
5     Red     (+) Fused 12v Ignition 1 relay Input                   Light GREEN/ Purple                      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
6     Green     Starter Input (Key Side of the Starter Kill)           Red / Light Blue                             IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
7     Violet     (+) Starter Output (Car side of Starter Kill)           RED / Light Blue                      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
8     Orange     (+) Accessory Output      Gray / Yellow           IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS 
9     Red / White     (+) Fused 12v 2nd Ignition / Accessory Relay Input 87               Yellow               IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS   
10     Pink     (+) Ignition 1 Input / Output     Red / Black          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
                         
          Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness 24 pin connector               
1     Pink / White     (-)200mA2nd Ignition / Accessory Output               
2     Blue / White     (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defogger Output                         Not Used
3     Red / White     (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output                       Not Used
4     Black / Yellow     (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision                  Black / Blue        POS                 Grey Plug right of column
5     Dark Blue     (-) 200 mA Status Output               
6     White / Black     (-) 200mA Aux 5 Output               
7     Whit / Violet     (-) 200mA 2nd Unlock Output               
8     Orange / Black     (-) 200mA Aux 6 Output               
9     Grey     (-) Hood Pin Output                Hood Pin
10     Blue / White     (-) Trunk Pin / Instant Trigger Input               
11     White / Blue **     (-) Activation Input               
12     Violet / White     Tach Input            White / Pink          Instrument cluster or PCM
13     Black / White *     (-) Parking Brake Input               
14     Green / Black     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output                 N/A
15     Green / Black     (-) Door Input             Black / Lt. Blue     POS     Gray Plug right side of column
16     Brown / Black     (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output            Dk. Blue             NEG     Steering Column
17     Pink / White     (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output               
18     Violet     (+) Door Input      Black / Blue     POS     Right of column
19     Violet / Black     (-) 200mA Aux. 4 Output                   N/A
20     Brown / Black     (+) Brake Shutdown      Lt. Green             POS     Brake Pedal Switch
21     Violet / Yellow     (-) 200mA Starter Output               
22     Gray / Black     (-) Diesel Wait to Start             Black / Pink     NEG     PCM
23     Orange / Black     (-) 200mA Accessory Output               
24     Green / White     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output                  N/A
                         


Thanks, Kent

I found a few mistakes / issues. Here's my assessment:

4     Black / Yellow     (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision   Black / Blue        POS Grey Plug right of column
      This will not work. If this connection has already been made, you've possibly fried the output already. The blk/blu in the truck is (+), and the output is (-). If there is an orn/grn on the back of the light switch, you can attach the blk/yel directly to it for dome light supervision.
       
13     Black / White *     (-) Parking Brake Input
       If your truck is an automatic, you can ground this wire. You don't have to remember to set the PB for the R/S to function.
              
15     Green / Black     (-) Door Input             Black / Lt. Blue     POS     Gray Plug right side of column
       WRONG. Leave this wire disconnected. You don't need the (-) door trigger. See next.

18     Violet     (+) Door Input      Black / Blue     POS     Right of column
       CORRECT. Fords are (+) door trigger. This is the correct input.

22     Gray / Black     (-) Diesel Wait to Start             Black / Pink     NEG     PCM
       The WTS light comes on for a fixed period of time, regardless of whether the ECM commands the Glow Plugs on or not. You can use a timed     (15 second) interval, or in Summer, 0-interval. Let it crank until it fires. And on a hot restart, no WTS is usually required for a 7.3. Crank it until it fires. I do on my 99. If you don't mine the wait, leave the WTS input.

Thank you davep;
#22, the wait to start are you using the crank time setting and not connecting this wire?
#11 The White / Blue wire, where do I make this connection?
#13, I suspected this is what I would do.

Kent

I have the WTS wire connected in my 99. I feel that in Summer I could get away with no WTS at all, especially on a restart the same day, but I've never tried it. Hook it up. You can find the blk/pink wire in the "S" shaped conduit just to the left of the brake pedal. I also found the tach wire in there too. Both wires were right on top of the bundle and easy to find. The DEI manual instructs to use a diode in the WTS wire. I don't know why they want one, but I did what I was told, and used one. My install is almost 10 years old now. Works pretty well.

Wht/blu is an "activate" wire for the R/S. If you touch this wire to ground, R/S will be initiated. Most installs don't need it. Tape it off.

On my install, I put a small, well-hidden switch in the blk/wht wire. I have a very elaborate Ghost Switch system in my truck. The Achilles heel of the system is if a thief gets hold of the FOB and keys and uses it to initiate a Remote Start with key takeover the G/S system is bypassed. I don't do it every time, but when I really care about security (high value car in the trailer left in a motel lot overnight) I turn off the switch to de-activate the R/S. One more layer of security to get around.

Did you get your locks working again?

I think you mentioned you have factory RKE. If so, it's not tough to use the wht/pur second unlock wire to provide progressive unlock. The relays are already in the truck.

Does your truck have a digital electronic odometer, or the early analog mechanical one? It's the easiest tell-tale to know what wiring to use. Mechanical odo = GEM module, on back of underdash fuse center. Electronic odo = VSM, below and to left of radio.

Good morning davep, thanks for all the effort and time you are offering, very much appreciated.
I did not get my locks working and I haven't had time to try to figure out what the heck I did wrong. I can hear the right front/back door relays trying to activate while the left front, I do not hear anything. Yet the left rear seems to be working just fine? As for wiring in a switch as another layer, I have a performance "chip" that I can change programs with and remove from the truck that I have a "No Start" setting. Truck will crank but will not start. Planning on using that along with the alarm in certain situations. My truck is all analog, I am not sure what you are trying to tell me.
Kent

Alright, I have everything connected and the Remote Start works, but when I connect the 2 wire plug for the door locks I can hear the alarm itself clicking, however the lock motors are not activating. I can use the alarm remote or the factory remote and the same thing. If I disconnect the 2 wire door lock harness I can at least get the factory remote and it attempts to unlock the doors. What am I missing?

Kent

I am not familiar with the 5305, but earlier DEI modules have a second port that the 3-pin lock harness plugs into. Locks don't work, and do some strange things. Ask me how I know. So double-check that you have the lock harness in the correct port.

Have you tried unplugging the lock harness and touching +12V to the blue and then the green wire and see if the locks work that way? Ie, test your connection. I am not 100% sure, but about 99% sure that an 01 with factory RKE will have (+) trigger locks. The wires are small gauge, as they only control the lock relays, or VSM. If you connected to large gauge wires, = not correct. Pull the passenger side armrest-switch panel. Takes 3 seconds and no tools. It's fastened with spring clips, just pull. Look at the wire colors and gauge on the door lock switch. See if you can find those in the kick panel of the side most convenient for you to use. Then TEST them.

What is "RKE"? I do not have a Keyless lock system. Also, I previously had an older model "CrimeStopper" on this truck and had no problems with the locks and the connection on that system was set to a NEG trigger, just as this new system is. I only see one port that the 3 wire door lock/unlock pigtail fits into.

Kent

davep, I think you called it, I have the 3 pin door lock in the wrong place! Woke up in the middle of the night, set straight up in bed, went to look at the destruction's and realized I have been plugging it into the Bitwriter plug. No wonder I seem to have shorted out all 4 of my door locks!!!!!!!!!!!!

The bitwriter port will activate LOCK, and the actuators are activated at all times. I did it on my first install (which was my Super Duty) and it took awhile to figure out what I had done wrong. On another install years later, I powered up the system and the locks locked and stayed. I immediately looked at the port I had the locks in. Yep, wrong again, but at least I immediately recognized the mistake. And pass the experience along to you. Cheers.

Now to order new lock actuators and figure out why the siren all of a sudden doesn't work! This install is kicking my behind for some reason!

Well I got everything working as it should! thanks very much for your help davep, saved my bacon. Also wanted to thank kreg357, his help got my remote start working.

Kent.