Alarm working backwards.

So i installed my Viper 5706v. I connected the hood pin, trunk to my trunk wire, and door trigger to neg door trigger, however when my trunk/ is open my alarm thinks its closed, and when its closed the alarm thinks its open. if my alarm is armed and i open a door or my trunk/hood the alarm wont go off, itll only go off when my door or trunk/hood is then closed. if i arm it when my door or trunk/ hood is open and then close it the alarm goes off. it works backwards. the remote start doesnt work and siren doesnt chirp when arming/disarming. it isnt the shock sensor since i dont have it connected. if my alarm is armed and i try to turn car on, it wont start and alarm will go off. so that works good, car starts and runs fine. Doors rest at 12v and go to ground when opened. so i have it connected properly to negative door triggers. I am still testing it only with the drivers door before i do a diode isolation on the drivers/ passenger doors. is the brain bad or is there a way to program it to make it think the doors and trunk/hood are opened when opened instead of closed. i made a video:
Car is a 98 grand prix.


Main Harness, 6-pin connector
1     Red   (+) 12 VDC Constant Input             12V
2     Black (-) Chassis Ground Chassis Ground     GROUNDED
3     Brown (+) Siren Output Red to Siren        CONNECTED TO RED SIREN WIRE, THEN RED / BLACK TO GROUND
4     WHITE/ Brown     NOT USED
5     White Parking Light Output   CONNECTED TO BROWN PARKING LIGHT WIRE
6     Orange (-) 500mA Ground when armed output   NOT USED

Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1     Blue (-) 500 mA Unlock Output CONNECTED TO WHITE
2     Empty
3     Green (-) 500mA Lock Output    CONNECTED TO LIGHT BLUE

Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
1     NC   No Connection
2     RED / Black (+) Fused 12V Accessory/Starter Input             12V
3     Pink/Black (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of flex relay NOT USED
4     Pink/White (+) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Output IGNITION 2 WHITE
5     Red   (+) Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input        12V
6     Green (+) Starter Input (Key side of the starter kill)      Cut Starter and place inline
7     Violet (+) Starter Output (Car Side of starter kill)        Cut Starter and place inline
8     Orange (+) Accessory Output   ACCESSORY ORANGE
9     RED / White (+) Fused 12V Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87    12V
10     Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input / Output          IGNITION 1 PINK

Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
1     PNK/White (-) 200mA Ignition 2 / Flex Output NOT USED
2     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status/ Rear Defogger Output       NOT USED
3     RED / White (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output     NOT USED
4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Dome Light Output CONNECTED TO (-) DOOR TRIGGER
5     Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output Ground while Running      NOT USED
6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output       NOT USED
7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output      NOT USED
8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output      NOT USED
9     Gray (-) Hood Pin Input   (-) Hood Status Input             CONNECTED TO HOOD PIN
10     Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input    CONNECTED TO RED / BLACK TRUNK WIRE
11     WHITE/ Blue Activation Input NOT USED
12     Violet/White*     Tachometer Input          NOT USED
13     BLACK/ White**     (-) Neutral Safety/Parking Brake        GROUNDED
14     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200 mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output     NOT USED
15     Green* (-) Door Input (-) Door Status OutputCONNECTED TO TAN DRIVERS DOOR TRIGGER
16     BROWN / Black     (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output CONNECTED TO BLACK HORN WIRE
17     Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output            NOT USED
18     Violet* (+) Door Input       NOT USED
19     Violet/Black (-) 200 mA Aux 2 Output        NOT USED
20     Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Input   (+)        CONNECTED TO WHITE BRAKE WIRE
21     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Starter Output NOT USED
22     Gray/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input   NOT USED
23     Orange (-) 200 mA Accessory Output          NOT USED
24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output        NOT USED

THANKS!!!!!

I also found that i have a RED / white wire that is also 12V but i connected all my 12V wire to the red wire in my car which most forums said to use.
To my knowledge i do NOT have a factory alarm, i havent a seen sign of one in 5 years of ownership. I dont know if a dormant factory alarm could cause these issues.

Video depicting my problem. Youll have to take my work when i say that my alarm thinks the trunk is closed when it is actually open.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFAkb8PNgDQ&t=2s

i havent installed alarms in a year or so, so im a bit out of touch on the new alarms and their specific programming but as far as the instant trigger is concerned there are different settings you can use to connect it to different sensors. the blue wire in the shock sensor harness is also an extension of the instant trigger wire. a lot of times on older cars the sensors in the car can be messed up or maybe the last owners replaced it with one that wasnt correct.

with that said, if you disconnect the instant trigger from the trunk pin does the alarm work normally? the reason i ask is because these alarms have the ability to shut down their sensor inputs if they detect problems that would cause false alarms, so if the trunk pin is not working correctly then that could be the issue.

does your trunk have a light that comes on when you open it? if it does then you could also use that to trigger the alarm when the trunk is opened.

also, from reading your post you seem to have some knowledge of testing the wires, but ill ask the stupid question anyway... did you test the trunk pin wire you connected to or did you just trust whatever wiring guide you were using? wiring guides can be wrong... just like it didnt tell you about your second 12v constant wire (which you actually SHOULD tap into), reason being that the car is meant to use the power of both 12v wires to feed all of the ignition and accessory wires. by only using one of those 12v constants to run the car you end up taxing the capacity of the wire and over time it can cause problems.
but anyway, the blue instant trigger is a negative trigger by default, if your factory trunk pin tests 12v positive when open then that is your problem right there. if this is the case then i think you can change the setting of the instant trigger to positive trigger, but if not then you can always use a relay to change the polarity of the factory trunk pin wire

Maybe the simplest solution would be to put relays on trunk and hood. And yes my trunk does have a light that comes on. I'll try tapping into it and see what happens. As for the 12v constant wires do I connect them together? Or do I split the alarm 12v constant and connect it to the 2 wires separately?
I don't remember what my trunk/ rests at when closed but I'll check

Trunk rest at12v open at ground.
Hood rest at 12v open at ground

I noticed my door diggers stay at 12.25v closed and 145mV when open. Don't go to full ground.

Scratch that. My Neg door trigger needs to go from ground back to 12v to activate. My neg door trigger wire on the viper is at 12v.
Same for hood and trunk. They need to rest at ground and open to 12v.

its usually ok for the doorpins to not zero out for a perfect ground because the alarm will sense the change and still go off. as far as the trunk and hood pins, if they test 12v while open then that is your problem because those alarm inputs are set to be negative trigger, meaning they should be grounded while open just like your door pins. if you look at the settings options in the manual there might be a way to change these inputs from negative trigger to positive trigger so that would be your easiest way to fix this without extra wiring. but if not then you can definitely use relays

the door pin inputs to the alarm are the only inputs that have a separate wire for negative or positive trigger. if your door pin wire tests 12v with the door open and then you lose 12v with the doors closed, then that is positive trigger and you should use the purple door trigger wire from the alarm. you may have to wait until the lights go out after all doors are closed to see how the voltage changes.

oh, and about your separate 12v wires, right now you have all 12v wires from the alarm going to one source, all you need to do is move one of those wires to the other 12v source. it shouldnt matter which one, just as long as you are using both of the car's 12v constant feeds to power the alarm.

why would i need to use both? and i put all fused wires go to 12V right? also if i change my hood/trunk switch type to N/C or N/O would it solve my problem? and for door trigger working backwards. set them to N/C. my door trigger rests at 12V and goes to ground when opened, however it doesnt activate the alarm unless it goes form ground to 12V. meaning when i close the door when armed. and positive door trigger wire does nothing. wont work. at least neg door trigger wire sets alarm off when door is closed, the positive wont set it off at all.

and some diagrams said i have a 3rd ignition wire. lucky me! but i dont have a 3rd ignition wire on my remote start harness...

ok well you wrote your post wrong then because earlier you wrote that your doorpins were testing 12v with the door closed and now you are telling me something different. SO, if your doorpin rests at 12v and goes to ground when opened, then use the negative trigger door pin wire of the alarm.

the N/O and N/C settings are for different type of doorpins that you find on some cars, i dont think that it will help you here but it doesnt hurt to try if its just a setting... try it and see what happens.

now, about your 12v wires, you dont NEED to use all of them, my point was that you SHOULD. each of your factory wires can only handle a certain amount of current, they usually have their own fuses. the car uses power from both of those wires to run but since you only have one hooked up, now all of the power that the car needs to run is only coming from one source instead of the normal two sources. they wouldnt have two wires if it didnt need two wires. the problems that can happen are burnt wires, blown fuses, melted connections because of heat building up. i cant say that these will happen but it could happen... i installed these things for over 10 years and ive seen this problem happen too many times to count. so why not make the effort to do it right the first time and not have problems down the line.

im sorry but doesnt "rests at" mean door closed? because ive seen people say it rests at 12V and goes to ground when opened. so i figured it means it is at 12v when closed and ground when opened. Ive been using the neg door trigger, but if i arm my alarm and open a door it wont go off. it will go off only if i close that door, same goes for trunk and hood. alarm is armed and trunk/hood is open =nothing. if i then close that door/hood/trunk the alarm goes off. if you see the video i posted it shows what happens.
alarm thinks hood/trunk is open when closed and closed when open.
alarm thinks door is opened when closed.
ive tried using the positive door trigger and it wont go off if door is opened or closed when armed. so i know its the neg door trigger.
can you explain how the N/O and N/C affect door pins? im trying to see if thats something that can make the alarm think the trunk/hood is closed when its closed.
Thanks for your help!

Turns out it was that my door triggers and hood/trunk pins were set to Normally Closed. went to bestbuy and they hooked my viper up to their computers and reset everything to factory settings. everything works now. factory setting have the door trigger and hood/trunk pins set to normally open not normally closed like i had them. said that the manufacturer mightve not reset the viper before shipping it out of that i got a refurbrised unit. anyways a good @25 spent to reset it.

that's interesting.

I use the multireader. I connect multireader black terminal connector to the car body, and the red terminal connector to the door trigger wire from the brain unit. The reading is +4.76v.

when I only connect that wire to the driver side door sensor, it works fine and read as 0V. Then, I add a diode in between, it is not triggered anymore. It reads as 0.7v instead of 0V; Therefore, brain is not triggered. Any idea how to fix a diode problem about the voltage drop?

thanks

pat0588 wrote:

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I noticed my door diggers stay at 12.25v closed and 145mV when open. Don't go to full ground.

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